Having trouble drilling all the way through top plate

[Mirage]

I figured this would be the best place to ask. House built in 1930 and i'm running some 12-2 romex for a new dedicated circuit to my soon to be pantry. Anyways the problem i'm having is i'm not able to get all the way through the top plate from the attic on an exterior wall. I have tried drilling on both sides of the existing porcelain tube on the existing circuit and the drill bit quits cutting/pulling at about the depth of the doubled up 2x framing, it doesn't feel like its hitting anything, it just quits drilling. Have tried both a spade bit and an auger bit and same thing happened. Is there something obvious i'm missing? I can't really go up from the bottom, there is a diagonal brace running through this cavity that I just missed when I cut out the 3 gang opening. Going to drag my 1/2" corded drill up there in the morning but I can't get much more oomph behind it being in the very corner of the roof lines. Obviously they got through twice before but i'm stumped, any ideas from you more experienced guys? I already broke the tube on the old wiring trying to pull it out, have already cut and capped the old wiring so I may try to pound it out but romex wont fit through them.

Gotta love old house wiring and PO's where the microwave was on the same circuit as 2 1/2 of the bedrooms.

 

[Terry D]

I figured this would be the best place to ask. House built in 1930 and i'm running some 12-2 romex for a new dedicated circuit to my soon to be pantry. Anyways the problem i'm having is i'm not able to get all the way through the top plate from the attic on an exterior wall. I have tried drilling on both sides of the existing porcelain tube on the existing circuit and the drill bit quits cutting/pulling at about the depth of the doubled up 2x framing, it doesn't feel like its hitting anything, it just quits drilling. Have tried both a spade bit and an auger bit and same thing happened. Is there something obvious i'm missing? I can't really go up from the bottom, there is a diagonal brace running through this cavity that I just missed when I cut out the 3 gang opening. Going to drag my 1/2" corded drill up there in the morning but I can't get much more oomph behind it being in the very corner of the roof lines. Obviously they got through twice before but i'm stumped, any ideas from you more experienced guys? I already broke the tube on the old wiring trying to pull it out, have already cut and capped the old wiring so I may try to pound it out but romex wont fit through them.

Gotta love old house wiring and PO's where the microwave was on the same circuit as 2 1/2 of the bedrooms.

A spade bit wont work, you will probably snap it off. You need a good sharp auger bit, with a good tip that will self feed in. You need a good 1/2" drill also. If you don't have the height clearance, you might need a right angle drill. Those holes were probably drilled up from the floor below when the house was built, before the walls were in. The main thing is a good sharp bit, dull ones are going to stop at knots and really old wood

 

[p_mori7]

Metal Hurricane braces ?

 

[The Cobbler]

sounds like you're using a dullish bit, the feed screw is exiting the lumber ( basically stripping in the wood) and noting pulling the bit in .

 

[Mirage]

It was a brand new auger bit, went and got it when I realized I needed the depth with real old actual dimensional lumber. Was trying out the spade bit since it was the longest wood bit I had. Will give it a try in the morning with my big drill and see if I can't get into a better position up there. I didn't think about the self feed stripping on the auger. Thanks guys

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[Platonic Solid]

I feel your pain. When I was drilling through the posts on my 1920s era garage (Rat Shack in sig below) for the threaded lifting post support rods, I learned how amazingly hard this wood was.

​

First attempt was with a brand new aurger bit set from Harbor Freight (link). These bits were totally useless against the rock hard posts. Realized later that those bits were totally useless for anything except scrap metal. Just cause they're new doesn't mean they're functional.

Having no time to waste, went to the local hardware store and purchased IRWIN 3041004 3/4" SPEEDBOR (link)

Holy cr@p the Speedbor was amazing. No, it was not like cutting through butter, but the fact that it actually cut through at all was impressive. It does cut through new soft wood 2x4s terrifyingly quick. Max depth you can get with the speedbor bit is 4.5".

If the screw tip binds, I would drill a 1/4" starter hole through to effectively disable the self-feed feature. I don't recall if I needed to do that on my project.

 

[Terry D]

I personally would not drill a starter hole to disable the self feed. That is what is doing most of the work. You would have to push the bit all the way through then. If the drill is binding, then the drill is not strong enough. It takes a lot of torque to drive a auger bit through. I personally use the Milwaukee auger bits from Home Depot. When they are sharp, they will drill through a knot. Its crazy how much money you have to sink in tools just to drill holes Also, if you can use a piece of wood or something and acting like a fulcrum, pry down on top of the drill. Sometimes a little pressure on top the drill works wonders, especially if your in a cramped position

 

[Norcal]

I feel your pain. When I was drilling through the posts on my 1920s era garage (Rat Shack in sig below) for the threaded lifting post support rods, I learned how amazingly hard this wood was.

​

First attempt was with a brand new aurger bit set from Harbor Freight (link). These bits were totally useless against the rock hard posts. Realized later that those bits were totally useless for anything except scrap metal. Just cause they're new doesn't mean they're functional.

Having no time to waste, went to the local hardware store and purchased IRWIN 3041004 3/4" SPEEDBOR (link)

Holy cr@p the Speedbor was amazing. No, it was not like cutting through butter, but the fact that it actually cut through at all was impressive. It does cut through new soft wood 2x4s terrifyingly quick. Max depth you can get with the speedbor bit is 4.5".

If the screw tip binds, I would drill a 1/4" starter hole through to effectively disable the self-feed feature. I don't recall if I needed to do that on my project.

Buying cheap Harbor Freight bits was the problem, garbage tools never perform well and as Terry D already said the screw on the auger bit it what does the work drilling a hole to disable it is not a good idea.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Buying cheap Harbor Freight bits was the problem, garbage tools never perform well and as Terry D already said the screw on the auger bit it what does the work drilling a hole to disable it is not a good idea.

Agree that buying cheap bits is bad, but disagree that the threaded end does the work. The flute does the work. The thread just helps pull in through. If the wood is super hard, it may pull faster than the flutes can cut, which causes binding. Yes, more torque can overcome that and possibly wrench your wrist in the process.

 

[Terry D]

Agree that buying cheap bits is bad, but disagree that the threaded end does the work. The flute does the work. The thread just helps pull in through. If the wood is super hard, it may pull faster than the flutes can cut, which causes binding. Yes, more torque can overcome that and possibly wrench your wrist in the process.

Both parts of that self feed auger bit work together. If one part fails, then the bit is pretty much useless. If that bit is stopping that drill, it is not the bits fault, it is the drill. And yes, you hit a nail or something, and it can take you for a ride. That is why I prefer my Milwaukee right angles, their low RPM and high torque gets the job done. Plus you have a lot more leverage to hold on to.

 

[nadogail]

you might consider rigging up some sort of "Old Man" or Drilling Crow to apply pressure to the drill.

To be totally honest, I have not thought of one of these for at least 50 years, you may have to locate your local "Old Timer" for an explanation. Try looking in your nearest boatyard as I think they were used in shipbuilding before Magnetic Base Drills became common.

 

[Mirage]

Finally got through, took every bit of the 7.5" Irwin auger bit with my corded 1/2" drill chugging at a low speed and every bit of weight I could muster into it. My 12v was getting through the top 4" easy but whatever board was on the very bottom just laughed at it.

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[driftpin]

you might consider rigging up some sort of "Old Man" or Drilling Crow to apply pressure to the drill.

To be totally honest, I have not thought of one of these for at least 50 years, you may have to locate your local "Old Timer" for an explanation. Try looking in your nearest boatyard as I think they were used in shipbuilding before Magnetic Base Drills became common.

I looked for those terms.

I don't have a right-angle drill in an 'arm-breaker' capacity, I do have a C3 19.2 volt Craftsman drill which has done OK for me the few times I've needed one. I do have an old Milwaukee 120 volt drill, w/the galvanized pipe-thread extra side-handle, if I needed to go through something tough. That one probably-could fracture your radius or ulna (forearm). As our friends 'over the pond' call them, I also have a 'pillar drill.'

 

[strutaeng]

I find that after the screw tip of the auger bit drills through the framing member, the bill just spins there and requires much greater force to break through the member.

You may need just to reposition and try to get your body weight on the drill to break through.

If your luck is as good as mine, I always seem to hit a nail on the top plate. Look at your tip for dulling or excessive heat. Might have to get a new spade or an auger bit designed to eat through nails.

 

[Zeke]

There are spade bits with feeder screws by Irwin. Some have 3 points and will 'turn' a bit in the hole. I would not try to drill though the existing hole for the porcelain tube. The only drill bit for that is a twist bit, seconded by a twin flute auger that might tear through with some ommphh. Both will survive a nail. Spade bits will break your wrist when hitting a nail.

You need solid wood when using a bit with a feeder screw. Drill new holes. It's probably old growth southern yellow pine that has turned into ironwood.

Someone said hurricane strap. In a 1930's house??!!

 

[Jim greengo]

Picture?
When all else fails,knock a hole in the wall and drill up instead of down.
That way you know what you're drilling into.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

To th OP
Glad to hear you got it done.
I don’t think anyone here mentioned a hole saw. You would likely have needed some kind of bit extension.

 

[TractorJeff]

I would have used a twist bit if it was Iron Wood!

 

[b-boy]

Agree that buying cheap bits is bad, but disagree that the threaded end does the work. The flute does the work. The thread just helps pull in through. If the wood is super hard, it may pull faster than the flutes can cut, which causes binding. Yes, more torque can overcome that and possibly wrench your wrist in the process.

I can agree with this. I still have wrist/thumb problems 6 months after I hit a nail while drilling through an exterior wall. Damn thing almost ripped my thumb off.

 

[EngineerNate]

I've found that in my 1920s house, sometimes I have to put my auger bits into my impact driver instead of a drill if it's in too tight a spot for the big 1/2" corded. My 20v cordless drill with no extra handle has wrenched me pretty good once or twice.

Unlike the drill, the impact keeps the bit working without trying to tear your arm off. The Irwin bits have the hex on the chuck side so they work with standard impact drivers. It's slow going rpm wise but sometimes with the rock hard wood it's the best option I've got.

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