The VISES of Garage Journal

[Tim H.]

Tim, there is a Reed thread focused on dates codes, on Reeds find that and see if it shows up after cleaning and stripping

For value your best bet is to peruse sold listings on Eprey. Many vise values are region dependent, and you probably get as many different opinions on value as there are posters and some are wiling to pay a premium and some only look for deals, and walk if its not...

Condition matters and so does supply and demand. We have generally quit even trying to place a value when asked

Great thanks!

 

[mikeswrenches]

Here is a catalog cut from 1869.

https://archive.org/details/UnionViseCo1869

And 1876

https://archive.org/details/CombinedUnionAndBackusVises1876

Thanks for the information. For whatever reason I forgot to check and see if they had any catalogs.

 

[mikeswrenches]

Another winner here Mike. Would you say this Union has a anvil? Sure like how thorough you are. Good traits to have.

Thanks Kevin, coming from you that means a lot!
I’ve pondered your question on the anvil and I think I would call it one. I went back and looked at that particular part and it appears to have a better finish than an "as cast" part would have. In addition it is similar to the pads found on Stephens & Wilton vises. While there is no horn, neither is there one one the two I mentioned. Besides, from what I’ve seen, the horns are generally unfinished and mostly useless on small vises.

 

[Shiftless]

mike
said “ the horns are generally unfinished and mostly useless on small vises”

I agree 100%

Here’s a great example of a useless horn on a Columbian 63 that I (for some weird reason) decided to doll up. I’m in the middle of this project now.
The Columbian 63 is a lightweight 3 inch homeowner grade open screw vise. To many people it’s not worth the time and effort to work on. This will sit on a shelf until I find somebody who wants to pay up for a lightweight pretty boy vise.

Here is a shot of the anvil horn area with wet paint. I’ve never painted the flat anvil portion of a vise before, but for this one I decided to use a tiny bit of filler, sand it smooth and paint it.
(Rustoleum Smoke Gray)

 

[Vise]

Can finally stop looking for the Reed 406. Picked this one up with replaceable jaws and 1971 date stamp. Should be a “406R”, but looks like they left the “R” off. Fully seized, so will be a little project, but looks to be in good shape otherwise.






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[Shiftless]

Vise:
Congrats on that pick up.
Except for the minor problem of being rusted solid, it looks to be in great shape.

If you had a drum full of Evaporust to soak that bad boy, you’d be home free!

 

[davethorik]

Nice get Vise, it has replaceable jaws as well. Dont see many 406R running around.

 

[Vise]

Thanks much, gents. Have already hit it with a can of PB Blaster (also sprayed it). I’m in for the long haul. Just got a rusted in nut out of one of my vises last night after a 2 month battle.

 

[mikeswrenches]

Thanks much, gents. Have already hit it with a can of PB Blaster (also sprayed it). I’m in for the long haul. Just got a rusted in nut out of one of my vises last night after a 2 month battle.

I had a 5 inch Holland’s with the same problem. Not having as much patience as you apparently have and after having hit the front of the nut at the bottom with a 4 pound hammer and a brass drift I decided on a different idea.

I had bought a bunch of puller parts at the flea so rigged it up so I could push on the nut. I put a small steel block against the front of the nut, put the screw point of the puller against the steel block and tightened it up...real tight. Unfortunately I then had your problem. Nothing moved. I smacked the end of the puller screw several times, still nothing. I had already been spraying the dovetail area with Kroil and Blaster so I continued with that approach. Every day I’d go by and smack the end of the screw always trying afterwards to take up any slack. Except there wasn’t any. This went on for 4 or 5 days until finally when I hit the end of the screw it sounded different. Got the big wrench and this time there was movement. Had to push it most of the way but it came out.

 

[Vise]

I had a 5 inch Holland’s with the same problem. Not having as much patience as you apparently have and after having hit the front of the nut at the bottom with a 4 pound hammer and a brass drift I decided on a different idea.

I had bought a bunch of puller parts at the flea so rigged it up so I could push on the nut. I put a small steel block against the front of the nut, put the screw point of the puller against the steel block and tightened it up...real tight. Unfortunately I then had your problem. Nothing moved. I smacked the end of the puller screw several times, still nothing. I had already been spraying the dovetail area with Kroil and Blaster so I continued with that approach. Every day I’d go by and smack the end of the screw always trying afterwards to take up any slack. Except there wasn’t any. This went on for 4 or 5 days until finally when I hit the end of the screw it sounded different. Got the big wrench and this time there was movement. Had to push it most of the way but it came out.

Nice! Yeah, my process involved Kroil oil to start, then WD 40 Rust penetrating oil and finally PB Blaster. I used a 1” brass drift and a 3lb hammer and wailed away on it for 2 months, culminating in last night’s extraction. The collar of the vise was rusted solid onto the spindle and refused to be drilled out. So I ended up cracking it off.

 

[mikeswrenches]

Kevin, here’s another one for the spread sheet.

This time a No. 90 Hall’s patent made by Chas. Parker. It has 2 inch jaws and opens almost 2 inches. Advertised weight is 8 pounds although the actual weight is 7 pounds 10 ozs.
As you can see, my example has a long raised anvil pad while the catalog sheets I've seen don’t show this.

This is a quick opening type very much like the Stephens vises, except with the handle in front rather than on the side. Even the mechanism is quite similar. Apparently the patent office figured that putting the handle on the front was enough of a difference.

Hall's patent is No. 140,269 issued June 24, 1873
The Stephens patent is 105,507 issued July 19, 1870 if you want to compare the two.

 

[neil222]

Prentiss swivel base release

Recently picked up a prentiss vice with some problems. The bar has a large chunk missing and one of the mounting ears on the base was broken and crudely welded back on. As a result, there really isn’t any collector value so I plan on just making it serviceable and throwing it on the garage bench.

It has obviously had a hard life so it was difficult to get apart.
Now that I’m putting it back together, I don’t believe I’m going to be able to pull the swivel base locking pawl up enough to disengage the pin and swivel the base. That part was the one part I did not take apart. Perhaps there is some gunk in there that needs to be cleaned out? Does anyone know how to dismantle that part?

 

[Vise]

Re: Prentiss swivel base release

Recently picked up a prentiss vice with some problems. The bar has a large chunk missing and one of the mounting ears on the base was broken and crudely welded back on. As a result, there really isn’t any collector value so I plan on just making it serviceable and throwing it on the garage bench.

It has obviously had a hard life so it was difficult to get apart.
Now that I’m putting it back together, I don’t believe I’m going to be able to pull the swivel base locking pawl up enough to disengage the pin and swivel the base. That part was the one part I did not take apart. Perhaps there is some gunk in there that needs to be cleaned out? Does anyone know how to dismantle that part?

I’ve never taken the plunger apart. Have just used penetrating oil from both sides and a brass hammer to unstick it. Heat could work too.

 

[KMScott]

Neil, the top flange either has a small set screw or a small pin that goes through the plunger. The plunger comes out from underneath the base so yo have to pull the swivel base off. Once you get the top flange off then tap the plunger out, it has a spring. Pretty sure there is a bunch of gunk in there. I drew up a plunger that is similar but used the handle instead of the pull flange like yours has.

 

[Dlavallee22]

Is there any chance someone here can help me out with the dimensions on a handle for a Reed 2C? Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[rusty65]

Two small rock island advertising sample vises. The vises use a real screw that moves with the jaw of the vise.



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[Shiftless]

Continuing on the theme of disposable lighters and vises, here is a shot of my Columbian 63 “Red Arrow” that I just finished tonight.

Why would a guy spend time spiffing up such a modest little vise? Hell if I know.

 

[mikeswrenches]

Continuing on the theme of disposable lighters and vises, here is a shot of my Columbian 63 “Red Arrow” that I just finished tonight.

Why would a guy spend time spiffing up such a modest little vise? Hell if I know.

Because he wants to, and because he can!
Looks great!

 

[wrenchguy]

2me its FUN.

 

[mikeswrenches]

Two small rock island advertising sample vises. The vises use a real screw that moves with the jaw of the vise.



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Very cool Rusty, first time I’ve ever seen one...let alone two!

 

[mikeswrenches]

2me its FUN.

I would agree!
I think, as much as anything, that there is a lot of satisfaction in bringing something back to life that in a lot of instances was dead.

If you look through the many posts on this thread you will find many instances of this.

 

[KMScott]

Pretty small vises Rusty, I might have the smallest Parker style swivel base in my possession. This 1-1/8 Athol #0 was in the hospital for a operation and was fitted with a swivel base. This new fitting should last a lifetime.

 

[Tomthumb717]

I recently picked up one of the later model Reed vises i believe it to be a 506? Its in very good condition with most of the original paint. I'm trying to determine when it was produced and associated specs. Were these the ones produced by Columbian? If so, would the castings be hollow?

 

[mikeswrenches]

Pretty small vises Rusty, I might have the smallest Parker style swivel base in my possession. This 1-1/8 Athol #0 was in the hospital for a operation and was fitted with a swivel base. This new fitting should last a lifetime.

KMS, looks the operation was an unquestionable success!! Nice job. Sure looks better than the original table clamp.

 

[Shiftless]

KMS:
Thanks for posting that beautiful piece of custom work. Your artistic vision and craftsmanship are absolutely amazing.

Mike and wrenchguy:
Thanks guys. It was a challenging and fun project. I’m definitely at my limits to hold a tiny little brush to lay down a straight line on that red arrow emblem. The black lettering was done with the dabbing method.

 

[KMScott]

hey shift, just seen your Arrow, you are getting the finishing touches figured out. Nice job.

 

[Shiftless]

Thanks KMS
The projects you and others have finished and showed on these pages inspire me to up my game. I admit that I wiped off the black lettering paint 3 times before I got it good enough to post here.

 

[Fierljeppen]

Here's a couple more of the most expensive pound-for-pound vises out there, except for maybe the Bugatti. The vise behind the Rock Islands is a Parker, no model # though.

The Rock Islands are pretty nice vises, but limited to very light jobs, while the Parkers jaws and screw are totally seized. I'm just using that one as a paperweight until I figure out how to fix it.

Rock Island
jaw.........5/8"
opening...7/16"
weight....3 ozs

Parker
jaw.........3/4"
opening...unknown
weight....5 ozs

 

[rusty65]

Here's a couple more of the most expensive pound-for-pound vises out there, except for maybe the Bugatti. The vise behind the Rock Islands is a Parker, no model # though.



The Rock Islands are pretty nice vises, but limited to very light jobs, while the Parkers jaws and screw are totally seized. I'm just using that one as a paperweight until I figure out how to fix it.



Rock Island

jaw.........5/8"

opening...7/16"

weight....3 ozs



Parker

jaw.........3/4"

opening...unknown

weight....5 ozs

Hey very nice grab on those other two rock islands. Are they both marked or just the orange one?


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[Fierljeppen]

Hey very nice grab on those other two rock islands. Are they both marked or just the orange one?

They're both marked Rock Island, but I've seen another green one that had no markings.

 

[meatsis]

Vise:
Congrats on that pick up.
Except for the minor problem of being rusted solid, it looks to be in great shape.

If you had a drum full of Evaporust to soak that bad boy, you’d be home free!

Here's a couple more of the most expensive pound-for-pound vises out there, except for maybe the Bugatti. The vise behind the Rock Islands is a Parker, no model # though.

The Rock Islands are pretty nice vises, but limited to very light jobs, while the Parkers jaws and screw are totally seized. I'm just using that one as a paperweight until I figure out how to fix it.

Rock Island
jaw.........5/8"
opening...7/16"
weight....3 ozs

Parker
jaw.........3/4"
opening...unknown
weight....5 ozs

Those Parker’s don’t open. They were used for advertising.

 

[rusty65]

They're both marked Rock Island, but I've seen another green one that had no markings.

Thank you for the pictures. I have one marked and one unmarked. I’ve got eyes and ears on a another example but that will have to wait till the corna **** ends and the club meetings can continue.





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[Tim H.]

So I’ve just recently started a refurb of my Reed 403 1/2. Had it stripped down to bare metal. No date stamp I could see except a 34 under the swivel jaw. Can anyone provide help with that?
I’m stumped.
Thanks,
Tim

 

[Vise]

Shift - nice work in the red arrow.

I recently picked up one of the later model Reed vises i believe it to be a 506? Its in very good condition with most of the original paint. I'm trying to determine when it was produced and associated specs. Were these the ones produced by Columbian? If so, would the castings be hollow?

Yes, made by Colombian. Someone else would have more info, but I think those were made in the 80s or later.

So I’ve just recently started a refurb of my Reed 403 1/2. Had it stripped down to bare metal. No date stamp I could see except a 34 under the swivel jaw. Can anyone provide help with that?
I’m stumped.
Thanks,
Tim

Just a part number. Check the side of the dynamic jaw by the nose of the vise or below the makers mark on the static for a date.

 

[Shiftless]

Late Chicago era paint color?

A few days ago, I posted about color matching early Wilton’s.

Here is the result of custom color matching to the bottom layer of paint I uncovered after gradually stripping 2 other layers of paint from a 1959 HD4 bullet.

I dipped a paint stirring stick into the can and after drying overnight here are a couple of pics.
The first one is next to my user vise painted Rustoleum Verde Green.
The second one is next to another bullet painted Rustoleum Satin Sage.

Too bad my paint guy mixed it by eye and didn’t record the exact pigment content. So it’s not reproduceable.

 

[Outlawmws]

Pretty small vises Rusty, I might have the smallest Parker style swivel base in my possession. This 1-1/8 Athol #0 was in the hospital for a operation and was fitted with a swivel base. This new fitting should last a lifetime.

fantastic work as always Dr. Scott!

 

[Mslund1]

After finishing up my Morgan 160 last week, it dawned on me that I didn’t have a place to put it. Destined to have it be my main user, I searched for a new HD place to mount it too.

After numerous marketplace and Craigslist searches to no avail, I looked out behind the shop at work and sitting in the to be scrapped pile is an old welding bench we took out about a year ago.

Ask the boss, he says “give it a good home, it’s yours” You can imagine my excitement, not only do I have a new bench that fits my needs, but it was free!

6ft long, 36” deep, 38” high, 1/4” plate top.

Will work perfectly in my garage! I was even able to salvage most of the built in wood bench that was there previously to make the lower shelf.






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[Outlawmws]

Cool bench score!

 

[Shiftless]

Outlaw is right. Cool score. Free is (almost) always good.

Plus, you have that authentic patina too!

 

[Big mikey]

Smitty just added some good info.
Plus, according to the catalog page he just posted, I see that the part number for the nut is the same for the early C1s as the late model C1s.

Since you have that vise all apart anyway, know that some guys use threaded fasteners instead of drive pins to retain the nut. That makes it much easier to disassemble in the future for thorough cleaning and re-lubrication. Of course you have to drill and tap it yourself.

Thanks guys I'm goin to order the parts and build it back..I post pics when finish..thanks again...