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larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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Northern Virginia
:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:Very impressive repair!

I thought oh **** when I saw welding had gone over to the case side! But then I forgot you had a mill, and a surface plate to lap the casing true!

I like the brass plug which should hopefully prevent a recurrence of cross threading.
 

Nlped

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Feb 24, 2014
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Hayden AL
I’d never even heard of Formax until this morning. My grandpa told me to run the carbide bit across some ivory soap prior to grinding aluminum. Works like a champ, but dang.


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mercracing

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Great job Mike! Thanks for all the pictures to go along with the description, it’s very helpful!


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zmotorsports

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:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:Very impressive repair!

I thought oh **** when I saw welding had gone over to the case side! But then I forgot you had a mill, and a surface plate to lap the casing true!

I like the brass plug which should hopefully prevent a recurrence of cross threading.

Thank you. It isn't actually a brass drain plug, I think it just appears that way in the lighting. It's steel but with what appears to be a cadmium coated plug which gives that yellowish/brass coloring in the light.

I was trying to keep the weld away from the mating edge but as I was heating up the case impurities started popping out of the lapped edge resulting in a very porous surface. I used a rotary burr to remove them and then replaced with some 4043 rod, machined flat and then lapped again on the surface plate.

Thanks for stopping by and checking out my work and for the comments.
 
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zmotorsports

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I’d never even heard of Formax until this morning. My grandpa told me to run the carbide bit across some ivory soap prior to grinding aluminum. Works like a champ, but dang.


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Yeah, I had heard about using a bar of soap as well when I was younger but never tried it. I can't remember where I heard about the Formax but I've been using it for about 15 or so years now and it works great as a grinders grease. I had tried Eastwoods back in the late 90's and into the early 2000's when I was doing a lot of porting and building of 2-stroke motorcycle/ATV/snowmobile engines but once I tried the Formax I threw the Eastwood's stuff out.

Thanks for following along.
 

customh

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Feb 18, 2013
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East Bethel, MN
Looking good Mike. Not sure what it is about that repair but it was sure satisfying to read. Probably that you've got all the required tools and it just flowed, no hackery required.
 
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zmotorsports

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Is this the Formax product you are using? If so, what grade is it and where do you get it from. https://formaxmfg.com/product/tallow-based-grease-sticks/

I was hoping you would do the case repair so we could see how it was done the right way!
Thanks for taking the time to post.

Kevin

Thank you Kevin, I'm glad you liked the case repair.

I don't want to tell you the wrong Formax part # so I'll look when I get home this evening and report back. I "think" it is the F-17 general purpose but let me confirm.

Thanks for following along.
 
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zmotorsports

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Looking good Mike. Not sure what it is about that repair but it was sure satisfying to read. Probably that you've got all the required tools and it just flowed, no hackery required.

Thank you Travis, I appreciate that.

I knew I bought all of these tools for a reason.:lol_hitti

Thanks for stopping by and checking out the projects going on in my shop. Hope you and your family are doing well. I appreciate the text exchange a couple of weeks ago my friend.
 
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zmotorsports

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I lost in the guessing what is in the big box game, but here goes.

Cold Saw

Kevin

Nope.

I say, something that “plunges”.


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Sorry.

It was either that or you get 50 suggestions from GJ on what you NEED to spend your money on. :lol_hitti

I hear ya Robert. No matter what I put there it won't be right. :lol_hitti

However, this is something I've toyed with for a few years now and even made specific comments about having in my shop but this is on a slightly smaller scale as what I have commented on in the past as wanting.

I wish I could say I found it locally, it was in mint condition and I picked it up for a steal but that would be a NO in all of the above, although it is in pretty good condition.:eyecrazy:
 

Bob Heine

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Dang, I was all ready to post brake (I do remember you mentioning wanting a 48"). Mine is a 4" and it turned out to be so useful I left it in the garage and bought a 5" for the workshop down the hill. Mine are both Grizzlys but I bet yours is a Baleigh.
 

shortykorte

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Sep 1, 2014
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Tallahassee, Fl
I was going to say dungarees. Heard you have been trimming down doing Pilates and yoga. Lol.
I just got a nice 24” finger break and has come in handy a couple of times already.


Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST

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jbmatth

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Jun 3, 2013
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Location
Northern Ok.
A brake was my guess before Cam beat me to it, I'm going to guess a press brake though to get a bit more specific.

JB
 
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zmotorsports

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Dang, I was all ready to post brake (I do remember you mentioning wanting a 48"). Mine is a 4" and it turned out to be so useful I left it in the garage and bought a 5" for the workshop down the hill. Mine are both Grizzlys but I bet yours is a Baleigh.

I was going to say dungarees. Heard you have been trimming down doing Pilates and yoga. Lol.
I just got a nice 24” finger break and has come in handy a couple of times already.


Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST

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A brake was my guess before Cam beat me to it, I'm going to guess a press brake though to get a bit more specific.

JB

Bob, you're right. I've been wanting a 48" pan brake for a while now but couldn't seem to spend the money and more importantly couldn't bring myself to give up the floor space for one as it will be a hit and miss used tool. Sorry, not a Baileigh, although that was one of the 48" models I had been looking at for a few years now, even got a quote on one about a year ago but didn't pull the trigger.

Sorry Shorty, no Yoga for me.

JB, I have a small 8" brake and a SWAG HD Finger brake that work well on thicker material for things like brackets and mounting tabs, etc. but I need something for those rare occasions I need to bend thinner material.

For the correct answer, I bought a DiAcro 24" finger brake that appears to be in nice condition but far from new. I will need to fabricate a stand for it as it didn't have one.

This way I get a small finger brake that takes up less floor space yet. I know a 48" brake would have a larger work envelope but most of my projects are on the smaller side anyways so I think the 24" DiAcro will work perfectly for my needs. From my research I have learned that as far as small brakes go, the DiAcro is one of the nicest/best for a small shop.

Once it arrives I will post up some pictures of it as well as the stand I will build for it.

Thanks for the interest everyone.
 
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zmotorsports

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Diacro has some nice stuff. One of their 24" manual press brakes would be handy in your shop as well... :thumbup:

Thanks Robert. I'm converting my SWAG HD finger brake over to a 4-way die as I don't care for the angle iron die that it comes with. It's not precise enough for what I want. We'll see what that does before I just in any deeper to the brake world.
 
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zmotorsports

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Is this the Formax product you are using? If so, what grade is it and where do you get it from. https://formaxmfg.com/product/tallow-based-grease-sticks/

I was hoping you would do the case repair so we could see how it was done the right way!
Thanks for taking the time to post.

Kevin



Kevin, sorry for the delayed response. The Formax product that I’ve been using is their green wheel wax/grease part # F-200. It is stated as wheel wax but has a bit higher melting point than their general purpose F-26. I feel it doesn’t clog as easily.

I use it mainly on rotary burrs when grinding aluminum but have also used it on my belt and disk sander with non-ferrous materials.

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Graham08

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Dec 10, 2007
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713
Location
Iron Station, NC
For the correct answer, I bought a DiAcro 24" finger brake that appears to be in nice condition but far from new. I will need to fabricate a stand for it as it didn't have one.

This way I get a small finger brake that takes up less floor space yet. I know a 48" brake would have a larger work envelope but most of my projects are on the smaller side anyways so I think the 24" DiAcro will work perfectly for my needs. From my research I have learned that as far as small brakes go, the DiAcro is one of the nicest/best for a small shop.

Nice score on the DiAcro! They made some of the nicest fab equipment on the market, overbuilt/engineered in a lot of ways. I'm looking forward to seeing it and the stand you build.
 
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zmotorsports

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Nice score on the DiAcro! They made some of the nicest fab equipment on the market, overbuilt/engineered in a lot of ways. I'm looking forward to seeing it and the stand you build.

Thank you Graham. Great to see ya here again.

I hope you'll post up some of that awesome work of yours.:beer:
 

OutlawDrifter

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Jan 20, 2015
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Location
KS
"New" tools are never a bad thing!

I've decided when one builds a shop, he needs another one built the same size for "cold storage," that way you can keep the work space and store extra toys....just thinking out loud here.
 
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zmotorsports

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"New" tools are never a bad thing!

I've decided when one builds a shop, he needs another one built the same size for "cold storage," that way you can keep the work space and store extra toys....just thinking out loud here.

Agreed Marc, that was much of my thinking behind my RV/storage bay when I built this building. At my last shop I was so tight for space and routinely conducted 5-S events to keep the shop area clutter free and well organized but I was running out of room to actually work.

When I was building this shop I kept getting people telling me I was building the RV bay bigger than it needs to be and to keep the shop larger and RV bay smaller. I even had people telling me to forego the dividing wall and just park the RV in the shop in the same place but keep it all open, but I didn't want debris or shop dust on the coach. I had a vision of being able to keep the RV clean as well as the bike and just as importantly, to have a dividing wall that gave me two 50' lengths of wall space for equipment storage.

On the shop side it is machinery row with all of my welding and fabrication equipment and on the RV/storage bay side it is all of my less often used equipment that is all on rolling wheels and/or casters so I can easily roll them into the shop when needed and out of sight out of mind when not needed. Much better way in my opinion than having another out-building to store things in.

I still have ample room to park the coach and get around it easily to work on it when needed. Equipment I store in the RV/storage bay are 60-gallon Quincy vertical air compressor plumbed through the wall at the ceiling for shop air, floor jacks, jack stands, second Handy motorcycle lift, tubing bender, tubing roller will be in there shortly, Brannick strut spring compressor, 35-ton air over hyd. floor jack, 20-ton floor jack, transmission jack for lift, pressure washer, DeIonized water tank for washing the coach, hand truck and my full metal storage rack on the wall. My Harley is also parked in the RV/storage bay where it is easy to ride out as well as keep it plugged into the battery tender so it's always ready and clean.

My son's Harley is also parked in the RV/storage bay currently but once he gets it built I'm sure he will bring it home during the nice weather months. I told him he could keep it parked at my place during the winter though.
 

4 FN 27

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Minnesnowta
Nice work on the Case repair Mike. Done a few of those myself just like that. More Oil Pans than Crankcases for me.

Congrats on the Pan Brake!!! DiAcro is the best in my opinion. Wise choice.
 
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