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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.

Vertigo Cycles

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Jan 14, 2010
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Portland, OR
Tangent. I’m curious about your tungsten sharpening process. You always put so much detail into your tool and process selection, I’m curious what you do (please let it be something cheap and awesome rather than a $1500 purpose built unit)?

Got a bench grinder? I have an extra fine diamond wheel, with the abrasive on the side, and a deburring wheel on mine. Tungstens get chucked in a drill, as slow as it'll turn, angle ground, tip knocked and then polished on both ends. Got the wheels with a coupon from MSC and IIRC, they were well under $100 for the pair.

edit: Yikes, the prices seem to have really increased since I bought mine. Here are similar wheels to what I have https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/03586146 and https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01722032. My deburring wheel is a 6" EX2, but I can't seem to find the exact product on MSC
 
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Choirboy

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I love both the terms "yak shaving" and "bike shedding".

Yak Shaving is the last step of a series of steps that occurs when you find something you need to do. “I want to wax the car today.”

“Oops, the hose is still broken from the winter. I’ll need to buy a new one at Home Depot.”

“But Home Depot is on the other side of the Tappan Zee bridge and getting there without my EZPass is miserable because of the tolls.”

“But, wait! I could borrow my neighbor’s EZPass…”

“Bob won’t lend me his EZPass until I return the mooshi pillow my son borrowed, though.”

“And we haven’t returned it because some of the stuffing fell out and we need to get some yak hair to restuff it.”

And the next thing you know, you’re at the zoo, shaving a yak, all so you can wax your car.

---
[/URL]

I will buy a Gregor t-shirt that says something about Yak Shaving, too. I had no idea my life had a name, but yak shaving is my whole life it seems.
Reminds me of this cartoon from my childhood:
 

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douglawrence42

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Got a bench grinder? I have an extra fine diamond wheel, with the abrasive on the side, and a deburring wheel on mine. Tungstens get chucked in a drill, as slow as it'll turn, angle ground, tip knocked and then polished on both ends. Got the wheels with a coupon from MSC and IIRC, they were well under $100 for the pair.

edit: Yikes, the prices seem to have really increased since I bought mine. Here are similar wheels to what I have https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/03586146 and https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01722032. My deburring wheel is a 6" EX2, but I can't seem to find the exact product on MSC


Thanks. That is my current soloution (except for the wheels, thanks for the tip). My problem has been dedicating the space for a tungsten only wheel. I tried a little 2” harbor freight job, but when I’m not stalling it, I’m cutting right through the wheel with the tungsten. So generally I do it on a contaminated 6” and hope for the best. So I’m looking for a good mini solution, or something completely different, but first I need to shave a yak...


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Vertigo Cycles

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Portland, OR
Thanks. That is my current soloution (except for the wheels, thanks for the tip). My problem has been dedicating the space for a tungsten only wheel. I tried a little 2” harbor freight job, but when I’m not stalling it, I’m cutting right through the wheel with the tungsten. So generally I do it on a contaminated 6” and hope for the best. So I’m looking for a good mini solution, or something completely different, but first I need to shave a yak...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It being a dedicated wheel is key. If you ever cut steel or aluminum on it, it'll contaminate your tungsten, which isn't the end of the world, unless you plan on welding stainless or titanium. It just hit me today that I can probably mount both wheels on one side of the grinder and reclaim the other side for an actual grinding wheel for the odd times that I need to sharpen a drill bit or something.

Just another couple of tips...I grind with the tungsten pointed against the direction of wheel rotation at a tangent point so the grind lines are parallel with the long axis of the tungsten. It helps prevent a burr forming and you can see what you're doing better. I also put a tiny square on the tip. When polishing on the deburring wheel, you definitely need it to be pointing in the same direction as the rotating wheel or it'll get ugly quickly. My apologies if this is obvious, but my experience teaching is that it's not obvious to everyone.
 

jake28

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SF, CA
It being a dedicated wheel is key. If you ever cut steel or aluminum on it, it'll contaminate your tungsten, which isn't the end of the world, unless you plan on welding stainless or titanium. It just hit me today that I can probably mount both wheels on one side of the grinder and reclaim the other side for an actual grinding wheel for the odd times that I need to sharpen a drill bit or something.

Just another couple of tips...I grind with the tungsten pointed against the direction of wheel rotation at a tangent point so the grind lines are parallel with the long axis of the tungsten. It helps prevent a burr forming and you can see what you're doing better. I also put a tiny square on the tip. When polishing on the deburring wheel, you definitely need it to be pointing in the same direction as the rotating wheel or it'll get ugly quickly. My apologies if this is obvious, but my experience teaching is that it's not obvious to everyone.


Not at all obvious. Great tips. Reason number 163 that my TIG welding is ****.
 
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sakurama

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Tangent. I’m curious about your tungsten sharpening process. You always put so much detail into your tool and process selection, I’m curious what you do (please let it be something cheap and awesome rather than a $1500 purpose built unit)?

I learned to weld in a shop that had a dedicated bench grinder for tungstens and this was when we didn't have "safe" tungstens. I didn't like it. To me it's too much space for such a small task even if it's something I need to do more than a good welder.

i-NLnFFjw-X2.jpg


I always wanted a dedicated tungsten grinder. One of the things I've discovered/realized about myself is that I love automation or dedicated machines or things that take the risk or variation out of something. I will spend 4 hours to make a jig that will save me 10 minutes if I think I'll use it more than twice.

i-cMWZTmL-X2.jpg


I bought this on ebay for maybe a $100 and was a bit bothered that it's essentially a dremmel with a little jig on top. But I've had it for 5 years and have changed the diamond wheel in it maybe twice. Each of those little socket caps is a through drilled screw for 1/16", 3/32" and 1/8" tungstens. You can rotate the wheel thing to change the angle and it directs the tungsten into the wheel. The top holes are for flatting a point. The slot is for nicking the tungsten to break it.

I keep my cheapest, smallest Milwaukee drill near it and use that, as Sean says, to hold and spin the tungsten at it's slowest speed in the little collet and it takes about 10-20 seconds to put a good point on it.

i-2sh3JkH-X2.jpg


I can't remember what tungsten I'm using - it's one of the universal ones that doesn't cause cancer. When I am going to weld I'll sharpen all the tungstens to nice points so that I don't have to stop when I touch or dip.

I would love a nicer dedicated tungsten grinder and planned on getting one - that was 5 years ago and I haven't thought about it because this little thing works very well and takes up no space at all.

So, not $1500 but also more than a bench grinder and new wheels. Or maybe about the same.


Great job on the shop organization Gregor.

My last shop was similar to yours, trying to organize 10-gallons of **** in a 5-gallon bucket. No offense, just making a size to tool ratio comparison.

If I could ask a few questions Gregor...

Do you have the DiAcro stand for your 24" finger brake or is yours sitting on a table or something similar? I looked up the exact spec's on DiAcro's website and it appears the stand measures 38" wide, 15" deep and 33.25" tall.

Is it at a comfortable working height for you and how tall are you?

Anything you would change about the stand itself?

Thank you.

Yes, it's a Diacro stand in mint green (no idea why it's green) and it's 33.5" tall.

i-B9MWX4z-X2.jpg


I am 5'8" to 5'9" depending on my mood. I think the height is great. One thing I love about really good tools is that I know 10,000 craftsman before me dialed in the ergos. I spoke to Thaddeus about the grinder and he said a good working height was at elbow level so I went with that. As I work I always pay attention to if I'm comfortable or if I want to change something and on the Diacro I never think about it. I also don't use it too often.

But I'm happy.

Also, envious of your shop space!

"Yak shaving" is a phrase that comes to mind. In a good sense.

Yak shaving is doing what seems like trivial, disconnected tasks, but are actually useful steps to do a bigger job correctly (or perhaps more efficiently over time).

http://projects.csail.mit.edu/gsb/old-archive/gsb-archive/gsb2000-02-11.html

As opposed to "bikeshedding," which is obsession over trivial tasks to avoid doing a difficult or tedious, but necessary, job.

I had never heard of either of those terms and I feel more pedestrian now that my life is summed up so neatly.

Darn it!





________________________________________________​







So today I shaved some Yaks.

i-VXd4jV8-X2.jpg


The world of knife making is divided into the two camps (probably more) and they are the traditionalists who free hand grind the blades and those who use a jig of some kind to who are less worthy. I'm firmly in the later camp.

I'm sure if I wanted to spend a few hundred on metal stock and many hundreds of hours I could develop that feel to grind a blade perfectly. It was a similar thing when it came to sharpening knives. I knew how - but I just never did it enough to ever get good at it and that frustrated me. When I finally bought a knife sharpening jig/machine/setup I finally got my knives sharp enough to shave hairs. Some people love learning to hold a knife at the exact right angle and developing the muscle memory to achieve that perfection. I'm not that person.

I have patience as long as I'm doing something the most efficient, quickest way. Also, why would you not use a jig? I can't understand that.

So many months, possibly even years, ago I wanted to make a knife. I guess it was two years ago when I got the grinder. I drew out a few ideas, cut one out, made a template in 1/4" baltic birch, then cut it out in O1 steel. Then I attempted to follow the Walter Sorrels method of using a file to slowly grind the bevel. I spent about an hour with a file and I hated the process, hated the inconsistency and hated the results. So I tried on my 6" belt sander and there was no way to really access the belt equally.

Then I gave up and chased a Yak around.

i-zBPTnj6-X2.jpg


I looked on YouTube and all over for a good knife grinding jig that I could copy and what I learned is that knife makers are pretty ****** craftsman outside of making knives. Only one was moderately well made and it was by a machinist - the rest looked like a door hinge and a bolt. I was disappointed.

While I will eventually make an adjustable jig the pieces of scrap that first fell out of the bin was a 1/4"x 2" x 2" piece of aluminum angle and a scrap of Delrin that was the exact same width. Perfect.

i-BFDCNX4-X2.jpg


The Delrin would make a perfect sliding base being so slippery and it is also easy to cut. I had never changed the nod of the Bridgeport head but it was very easy to do. I fly cut the Delrin at 4° and then, for good measure, cut another one at 5° then drilled and countersunk the base so it would bolt to the angle.

i-NcBGzfW-X2.jpg


The drilled and tapped array on the upper part allows me to set the knife blank at an angle so I get the grind lines in the direction I want. The tapered delrin base slides easily on the rest and while I didn't make a handle it's pretty easy to direct the pressure to the top or bottom and it also keeps you from burning your fingers or grinding them. It takes no pressure to hold the knife to the jig so a small vise grip does that job.

i-vvCKkVL-X2.jpg


I wasn't prepared for how much of a mess it makes. I knew/know it would be but dang. Some people put a bucket of water under the grinder and some a catch vent to a vacuum. I have a cheap vacuum and I know that the buffer is just as messy so I'm going to need a plan of some kind.

i-C3SKnkB-X2.jpg

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I keep wanting to use the real video/camera gear but whenever I think to I realize I don't have a plan, I doubt that whatever I'm going to do will work out very well and I'm not really excited about documenting my failure. When I decided that making a knife might be a good project I then remembered that I have no idea what I'm doing and my first knife will of course be a failure.

I tried to remind myself that I think that about literally everything I am about to do and that somewhere along the line I figure it out and end up doing a pretty good job. But the beginning of every project is filled with doubt and anxiety. Especially when I consider that I am going to film me failing. Shooting for here is different. I take some before shots and then some process shots and somewhere along the way I figure things out and the story reveals itself.

Having to shoot video is somehow much more real. Like it will reveal that I have no idea what I'm doing and I won't be able to recover. When I think like that I'm much closer to 5'4" it seems.

But I decided that I need to do it and it's a small project and I like shooting B-roll more than anything so it would be a chance to do that. B-roll is what I shoot for this space. Arty, soft focus pretty still life's of the shop. I find that relaxing.

So I convinced myself that was what I was going to do. Also, I found a new person I like on YouTube and his video I find pretty relaxing and entertaining. Check out Don Nguyen. My goal is to create teachable ASMR machining videos. If the tangents like this are interesting to people I'll just keep going.

i-74BS6J5-X2.jpg


This side is perfectly symmetrical with this side. Not so much the other side. But I like the look of it. Grinding with the jig is exactly what I want - to take my lack of skill out of the equation and replace it with the skill I have as a machinist.

i-DVQK6kC-X2.jpg


I think the other thing I'm finding about video is that I'm sort of understanding myself a bit better - what I do that's annoying or funny. That I say "umm" a lot. It's strange. Mostly I want to take me out of it but in other ways I want to be able to use it to teach. I'll figure it out.

Anyway, that's what I spent the last couple of days on. I am so very excited to have that grinder up and running. I am really looking forward to making the chefs knife that I want that I've never been able to find or afford. That will be down the road a bit but I look at having this set up now as a way to relax and do something non-moto related. Plus I can now make my entire family knives for presents. At least I know my nephew will be excited. For now I need to see what Lucas has for his sketch and then we'll start on his blank. All in all though I'm happy with the tool I made and excited to to have a new tool in the shop - especially one so versatile.

Gregor
 

zmotorsports

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Thank you very much for taking the time to measure your stand Gregor. I really appreciate it.

I was hoping to have my DiAcro brake on Friday but it got pushed back to a Monday delivery.

Thanks again and keep pictures of your amazing work coming.:thumbup:

Mike

On edit, i want to echo your comment about having dedicated tools. Many years ago when I was starting to TIG weld I merely used my belt sander to sharpen my tungsten and had intermittent issue which I eventually assumed it was the contaminated belts from various materials.

At the same time I also had a Miller 300-amp multi-process power source that I had the wire feed attachment as well as a TIG setup for it. It did "ok" on either process but now what I would call great. I demo'd a few different machines and determined I was going to get a dedicated MIG (GMAW) machines as well as a dedicated TIG (GTAW) machine. That was about 15 or so years ago when I bought my Miller MM251 and Miller Dynasty. I also purchased a Weldcraft tungsten grinder right afterwards and haven't looked back. I also determined that I was going to be done with the multi-process machines. At that same time I had my Smithy 3-in-1 machine and I started saving up to replace with a good quality stand alone lathe and milling machine.
 
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douglawrence42

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Evington, Virginia
Thanks for the tungsten answer. I haven’t seen that and will look for it.
Sometimes the video from the self aware guy learning is a lot better than the video from the subject matter expert. At least I tell myself that....
 

Vertigo Cycles

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Portland, OR
For the record, I like the idea Gregor's tungsten grinder solution and if I were shopping for one, I'd go that route just for the amount of space it uses.

Where does the dust go? Is there a possibility of a tiny vacuum attachment?
 

Choirboy

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Apr 18, 2013
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SE Iowa
Thanks for the tungsten answer. I haven’t seen that and will look for it.
Sometimes the video from the self aware guy learning is a lot better than the video from the subject matter expert. At least I tell myself that....

Agree with the above quotation. Plus, 95% of people who watch YouTube are not actually hoping to learn how to build a bike, chop down a tree, or run their own saw mill. They want entertainment. Look at the morons they hire to star in reality TV; people find that very entertaining. You are not by any stretch of the imagination a *****, but watching a smart, competent person such as yourself figure out problems and work through the learning curve could be just as entertaining as watching morons on TV.
Reading through that I hope you don't take it as some sort of insult, because I certainly don't mean it that way. I was just saying I think it would be fun to watch you problem solve, and I bet others will think as well.
 
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sakurama

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For the record, I like the idea Gregor's tungsten grinder solution and if I were shopping for one, I'd go that route just for the amount of space it uses.

Where does the dust go? Is there a possibility of a tiny vacuum attachment?

I snort it like coke. I couldn't remember what tungsten I use but it's the gold 1.5% lanthanated so not the old school cancer causing tungstens. What do you use for titanium Sean?

You are not by any stretch of the imagination a *****, but...

Hey, don't sell me short!

I have a lot of potential here.

G
 

Choirboy

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Hey, don't sell me short!

I have a lot of potential here.

G

LOL! When I was student teaching my cooperating teacher hated my guts with a fiery passion. She told me once that, if I worked really really hard and dedicated myself to my craft, I might someday hope to become a mediocre teacher. That is almost an exact quote. I've proved her wrong, though, I've become a mediocre teacher with much less effort than she predicted :lol_hitti
 

WoodsTruck

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Odd ball question for chef's knives.

I have done grafting work on trees in the past and a grafting knife is a single bevel blade in either a right or left hand configuration so the blade is acting more like a chisel lifting the material away from the cut leaving the desirable stock with a flat surface.

I have wanted to make a butcher knife with a right handed single bevel blade so I could cut thick cuts of meat quite thin. I don't know if it would help over a double bevel blade but thought I would throw that your way to see if you come across anything in your blade mastering pursuits.
 

bdbecker

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...I tried to remind myself that I think that about literally everything I am about to do and that somewhere along the line I figure it out and end up doing a pretty good job. But the beginning of every project is filled with doubt and anxiety. Especially when I consider that I am going to film me failing... Having to shoot video is somehow much more real. Like it will reveal that I have no idea what I'm doing and I won't be able to recover. When I think like that I'm much closer to 5'4" it seems...

I don't know if you realize it or not, but you highlighted why (I think) so many people are drawn to this thread. Your appeal doesn't lie in your ability to do things well, your appeal is your ability to step out of your comfort zone and find a way to be successful even when you aren't completely confident in your skills and abilities. We appreciate the candidness when it comes to where you did things well, but also what you could have done better on a project. It makes your posts more relatable.

If you f-up on camera, who cares? Show the f-up, talk about what went wrong, what you learned, and how you are going to fix it. YT viewers will appreciate that honesty just as much as we do. It would be a mistake to filter out one of the best parts of your personality just because you are working in a new medium.
 

elvee

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Atlanta, GA
Odd ball question for chef's knives.

I have done grafting work on trees in the past and a grafting knife is a single bevel blade in either a right or left hand configuration so the blade is acting more like a chisel lifting the material away from the cut leaving the desirable stock with a flat surface.

I have wanted to make a butcher knife with a right handed single bevel blade so I could cut thick cuts of meat quite thin. I don't know if it would help over a double bevel blade but thought I would throw that your way to see if you come across anything in your blade mastering pursuits.

What you are describing is basically a sushi knife. Search for those and you may find what you are looking for.
 

Vertigo Cycles

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Portland, OR
I snort it like coke. I couldn't remember what tungsten I use but it's the gold 1.5% lanthanated so not the old school cancer causing tungstens. What do you use for titanium Sean?


G

That must be how you get your glow

I've got some 2% thoriated, 2% ceriated and some other blended ones that had baby blue paint on them,though I can't tell which is which anymore since I sharpen both ends. IIRC, when I was trying to switch from thoriated, I noticed that the difference in arc wander at low amps wasn't as pronounced if I polished the tips.
 

GeddyT

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I don't know if you realize it or not, but you highlighted why (I think) so many people are drawn to this thread. Your appeal doesn't lie in your ability to do things well, your appeal is your ability to step out of your comfort zone and find a way to be successful even when you aren't completely confident in your skills and abilities. We appreciate the candidness when it comes to where you did things well, but also what you could have done better on a project. It makes your posts more relatable.

If you f-up on camera, who cares? Show the f-up, talk about what went wrong, what you learned, and how you are going to fix it. YT viewers will appreciate that honesty just as much as we do. It would be a mistake to filter out one of the best parts of your personality just because you are working in a new medium.

Amen!

Everything I know--and I mean everything--I learned from first failing. Usually spectacularly. I would rather watch a YouTube video of somebody's honest approach to a problem, failures, corrections, and inevitable solution. I don't just want to learn how to do something the right way, I want to learn how to fix it when it goes wrong. Because the latter is the more likely scenario...
 

quadrcr87

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Travelers Rest, SC
I don't know if you realize it or not, but you highlighted why (I think) so many people are drawn to this thread. Your appeal doesn't lie in your ability to do things well, your appeal is your ability to step out of your comfort zone and find a way to be successful even when you aren't completely confident in your skills and abilities. We appreciate the candidness when it comes to where you did things well, but also what you could have done better on a project. It makes your posts more relatable.

If you f-up on camera, who cares? Show the f-up, talk about what went wrong, what you learned, and how you are going to fix it. YT viewers will appreciate that honesty just as much as we do. It would be a mistake to filter out one of the best parts of your personality just because you are working in a new medium.

Agreed
 

gearhead1960

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I don't know if you realize it or not, but you highlighted why (I think) so many people are drawn to this thread. Your appeal doesn't lie in your ability to do things well, your appeal is your ability to step out of your comfort zone and find a way to be successful even when you aren't completely confident in your skills and abilities. We appreciate the candidness when it comes to where you did things well, but also what you could have done better on a project. It makes your posts more relatable.

If you f-up on camera, who cares? Show the f-up, talk about what went wrong, what you learned, and how you are going to fix it. YT viewers will appreciate that honesty just as much as we do. It would be a mistake to filter out one of the best parts of your personality just because you are working in a new medium.

This is definitely spot on why we want to see your full documentation of your learning/fabricating process, but I understand your need to edit out your F**K ups. An old friend of the family told me back in the pre-digital age how to make everyone think of yourself as an expert photographer....throw out the bad shots in the stack of prints and only show them the good ones....:lol_hitti
 

Nooner

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Feb 9, 2009
Messages
21
For the record, I like the idea Gregor's tungsten grinder solution and if I were shopping for one, I'd go that route just for the amount of space it uses.

Where does the dust go? Is there a possibility of a tiny vacuum attachment?

Gregor's tungsten grinder got me thinking that I could 3D print a collar that'd work just fine for my purposes. Just before I fired up CREO and grabbed my Dremel and a set of calipers I decided to do a google search and behold:

https://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8813

someone has already done the work! I ordered the diamond coated discs and I'll 3D print the collar this week!

Thanks Gregor!
 
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Vertigo Cycles

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Portland, OR
Gregor's tungsten grinder got me thinking that I could 3D print a collar that'd work just fine for my purposes. Just before I fired up CREO and grabbed my Dremel and a set of calipers I decided to do a google search and behold:

https://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8813

someone has already done the work! I ordered the diamond coated discs and I'll 3D print the collar this week!

Thanks Gregor!

What a great idea! Thanks for sharing that.
 
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sakurama

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Quick update. Yaks are running all over the place so I'm a bit scattered.

i-Zf5H7jf-X2.jpg


I have been plugging away on the second XR. I had stalled with the wheels off but remembered that I had the second set of dirt wheels which are in decent shape so I put those on and could make some more progress. A new supermoto fender is smaller yet works very well and I had been planning on getting rid of the Emig red anodized triples as too blingy for my flat tracker but decided to put them on this one and they look great and give the advantage of allowing me to put a fat bar on which I've wanted to do for a long time.

i-NFFPqC6-X2.jpg


I've prepped some tubes and am planning on doing the exhaust but I keep working on the shop and I haven't had the welding table clear so I've stalled there. Partly because I wanted to do a quick video on the the build and realized it was too crowded after moving the the new belt grinder into place but not finding a home for the fourth cabinet.

i-NbFZ8dp-X2.jpg

You said you will, "Wall off the Garage Door." I thought the plan was to replace it with a 2 panel glass hanger/eve style door -- change of plans or did I get that wrong? Oregon is more rain and overcast days than not, but natural light and being able to open the pod bay doors and use the extended space seems worth creating some solutions on using that area effectively when it is closed. I guess budgets are more of a factor than before... but a homespun solution would save money and be a super YouTube project that could pull in some of the immense DIY/Builder crowd who will also like your fabrication work.

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We've had such nice weather lately that this quote has been ringing in my ear. I really need the space that the wall would create - it would allow more cabinets. But for the moment I decided to address that extra tool chest by changing the island. I'd originally bought these chests from Harbor Freight because of Steevo's Workbench thread here.

I was contemplating building a frame like Steevo and making a proper top but I didn't want to buy steel and dive into to something without trying it on for size. So I spent an hour or so moving the chests around in this new orientation. It has more space but will make it tighter for anything more than one extra bike. Also the chests are high now - 42" I think - but if I pull the wheels they'd be almost the same height as the welding table.

Things to think about.

So I reached into the projects grab bag and pulled out a folded piece of paper with "Buffer Stand" written on it. Okay. That seems like a small project I could knock out in one day and feel like I've accomplished something.

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I had a fifth section of steel 4x4" tube and two 24" square 3/8" plates so I drew up this solution which looked rather like the Baldor stand. I pulled out the steel and checked the measurements for the base against the Baldor stand.

Then I realized that when I got all my wheels and compounds I'd need to put them somewhere and that was going to be the base of the Kennedy. But the space under the buffer is just wasted then.

So... I went back to the drawing.

i-vQCXZVh-X2.jpg


I had a 29x48 sheet of 3/16" diamond tread plate that has been rusting outside for the past year or two and 29" was just about the right height. Plus it would give me storage. And weigh a lot more than the first version. It would certainly take more than one day and be far more complicated, especially if I used it as an opportunity to do video with the real cameras. Yup, that ticks all my boxes...

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I had a really hard time cutting the 3/8" plate with the plasma. I probably should have used the oxy-acetylene but I have been too scared to strike it up without the anti flashbacks on it. I finally bought some but haven't installed them. So Plasma it is.

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New consumables in the torch didn't seem to help too much at first but I guess my technique improved as the day went on because I started to get super clean cuts on the diamond tread.

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It was a royal pain to wire brush all the loose rust off the steel - it might not look clean but it's way better. Thank goodness for rusty metal primer. Maybe I'll do this in POR-15 if I still have any left.

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And yes, I'm putting the diamond tread to the inside. Not a fan of diamond tread used for things that you don't walk on so I'm hiding it. A few people on IG have suggested that I make a door for it because buffing is a mess. I'm undecided if I want to do that. The mess will be more spread all over the shop in a 10' radius so I don't know. I like being able to see materials. Not sure yet. I have some smooth 1/8" steel that was on top of the tool chests and I was planning on making that into a drawer to go under the lathe to hold the spare chucks. If I have enough left I make make the door.

This might seem strange to say but I've been acquiring "potential" projects and supplies for them for years now like some sort of caffeine addled pack rat and suddenly, in the midst of this Coronavirus mess, it seems I'm perfectly prepared to keep myself occupied for months and months.

So that's where I ended tonight. I can't tell if I'm avoiding working on the BMW or if I'm making good use of the time and getting the shop perfectly set up. I think the later. Again, not sure.

This is a time of great uncertainty.

Tomorrow I'll get this welded and hopefully primed. Then I may jump back onto the XR so I can get it off the lift and get the BMW up there. Also so I can go do wheelies around the neighborhood. I've been doing the Ryan Leech 30 day (bicycle) Wheelie Challenge course (free during the corona virus!) and I'm about 10 lessons in and getting better but I'm much better at them when I have a motor. I feel a little foolish practicing every day when the kids and I go on our afternoon break bike ride but I'll be damned if I won't learn to wheelie well before I die.

And there you go.

Gregor
 

coolit

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Messages
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Gregor you inspire me to organize my garage better and make better use of space. I like that theme. I’m going to be thinking about how I can do that this weekend.

Speaking of better use, could you cut the center section of the base plate out and use it as a shelf?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

zmotorsports

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Nice job on the stand Gregor.

I had one in my old paint shop many years ago that looked nearly identical to the one you're building that I kept my wheels as well as Tripoli, Jeweler's Rouge, etc in and it worked well.

As for the the tread plate, I completely agree, I'm not a fan of the tread being exposed unless being walked on. I had a small piece that I used on the end of my 6' workbench and I did the same thing as you by turning it so the tread was inside.

If you want to see an island style workbench like you are thinking about, Paco (fnieto) built on in his shop.

Here is a link to his bench, post # 83. Looks like he put them back to back but with a space in the middle.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259062&highlight=year&page=5

I hope he doesn't mind me sharing pictures from his shop build. I just liked this idea and it stuck in my head.
 

jimkinney

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299
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Florida's Space Coast
"A few people on IG have suggested that I make a door for it because buffing is a mess. I'm undecided if I want to do that. The mess will be more spread all over the shop in a 10' radius so I don't know. I like being able to see materials. Not sure yet. I have some smooth 1/8" steel that was on top of the tool chests and I was planning on making that into a drawer to go under the lathe to hold the spare chucks. If I have enough left I make make the door."

You will be amazed how much dust will end up under the buffer and inside that stand. If you need to see what's inside, put on a lexan door or window in a steel door. A gasket will be a good idea also.

Keep up the good work.
 

y'sguy

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Ye, not only does the buffing and polishing compund go everywhere it also cover the operator. I founnd that wearing a tyvec suit with head and foot covering is the only sure way of staying clean. My first time buffing lot of aluminum with compound…took weeks to get the wax out of my hair and skin!
 

fish369

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Messages
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Northen Michigan
Gregor, finally caught up. F'in Awesome to say the least. So many rabbit holes, house, bikes, BMW, welding, lathes, bread, pizza... Damn, trying to keep up. Keep going!!! I love it!! Looking forward to more pancakes!

Fred
 

BORING HOP YARD

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Boring Oregon
Greetings Gregor, hey a few weeks back you were talking about how to better finish off the parts your fabricating. If you have a chance check out Graham08 "Resurrecting a Vintage Racer" in the fabrication and techniques forum on the Garage Journal.
He is using 1/8 radius trim router to put a nice radius on all the edges.
 
OP
S

sakurama

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Portland - the cool one.
I have been liking these for getting rust and mill scale off. Does a good job and lasts a decent amount of time.

I love those things but they just don't last. I didn't think the diamond plate was worth the 5-6 disk it would take. Not when you can use a wire wheel and Rustoleum.

Here is a link to his bench, post # 83. Looks like he put them back to back but with a space in the middle.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259062&highlight=year&page=5

I hope he doesn't mind me sharing pictures from his shop build. I just liked this idea and it stuck in my head.

Yes, that one was posted in Steevo's thread - I really liked it. One of my ideas for the island is to leave a gap in between the cabinets (long ways) and use that to store sheet stock. If I had a big shop I'd have one consolidated space for material storage but my shop is like living in a studio apartment - I need to be creative and find every little nook and cranny to utilize. 3" of space will hold a fair amount of sheet stock.

You will be amazed how much dust will end up under the buffer and inside that stand. If you need to see what's inside, put on a lexan door or window in a steel door. A gasket will be a good idea also.

Keep up the good work.

Ye, not only does the buffing and polishing compund go everywhere it also cover the operator. I founnd that wearing a tyvec suit with head and foot covering is the only sure way of staying clean. My first time buffing lot of aluminum with compound…took weeks to get the wax out of my hair and skin!

Okay, okay, enough people goaded me into the door idea. Great, another day to my one day project.

Greetings Gregor, hey a few weeks back you were talking about how to better finish off the parts your fabricating. If you have a chance check out Graham08 "Resurrecting a Vintage Racer" in the fabrication and techniques forum on the Garage Journal.
He is using 1/8 radius trim router to put a nice radius on all the edges.

I've also heard about that but not tried it yet. It won't work on steel but aluminum it will. My router table is set up so the next time I have an aluminum part I'll try it. Also, that's a cool thread.







__________________________________________________________​






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I (not surprisingly) under estimate the work to use my real gear for video. I'm getting the hang of the shooting part but haven't started the editing part yet. I'm going to do that this week when this is finished. I can say that shooting video is about 5 times more complicated. Part of this is I'm over shooting because I don't know what works or doesn't. But it at least doubles the amount of time any project takes. At least.

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I experimented with pulsing and lay wire on the welding and it worked pretty well.

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I still am dealing with heat management but getting better. I find it satisfying to compare the welds I do now to the ones on my first projects. Big improvements. It's funny how my shop projects mark my growth as a fabricator.

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While making a door didn't exactly necessitate a new drawing I decided to add the door to the old drawing as I thought about how I would make it work. Plus, coloring is a form of therapy for me.

i-9pmXKkT-X2.jpg


I didn't want to order hinges and I hate the idea of using bolt on hinges so I decided to just make my own barrel hinges. A little research told me to keep the tolerance fairly loose to allow for welding distortion and to not go for a perfect finish so grease would hold better. I used an end mill to get a flat bottomed hole.

i-TWfdMLS-X2.jpg


I also made some brass washers to act as a bearing. Another option is to place a single ball bearing in the bottom of the female part of the hinge. I want to try that down the road but this is light enough for the brass to be fine.

i-SS8sv65-X2.jpg


I tacked them in place and was actually pretty amazed that they worked right away. It was pretty satisfying.

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I milled a recess in a piece of steel and welded that in to hold a magnet instead of making a latch. I like magnets although it may end up just getting covered in grinder dust. I guess we'll see.

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I then grabbed a piece of aluminum round stock and machined up a quick knob. I didn't have a plan and didn't measure anything, I just free wheeled it with some different cutters. I have a round cutter that I used to make the rings and it felt sort of 1950's or 1960's and vaguely mid-century. Seemed appropriate. Felt good.

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I have to say that it turned out better than I was expecting. At least so far. I put it on the scale and it's tipping in at just under 110lbs.

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I drilled and tapped the top and bottom for M8 screws. I hate through holes and nuts. The buffer will just be screwed down on top and I'm using a method we used to use in hi-fi which is spiked feet with lock nuts. I think that with the weight and the spikes this won't need to be bolted down. The whole set up should be right around 200lbs. Shouldn't be going anywhere.

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I papered the welding table and brushed on a coat of Rustoleum primer. I've done a few machine tools with a brush and the thickness of a brushed on enamel seems to be a pretty good way as it wets out and has that very thick look to it that is pretty typical of machine tools.

Tomorrow I'll have to make that very difficult decision of which gray to use...

Gregor
 

GeddyT

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Gregor, what gimbal and tripod are you using in the shots above, and do you like them? I have a pretty nice monopod, but our tripod is nothing special.

What is it about video that you're finding challenging? For me, I find video easier than photos because the slower shutter speed lets so much more light in, and there's no hunting for the perfect shot. Just wait, and it'll be in the clip somewhere! It's easy to just leave the camera purring and then use the NLE to stitch together only the good parts.

The real time consuming part of video is the audio, as matching music is super time consuming. Other than that, I've always had a lot of fun working with video.
 
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sakurama

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Gregor, what gimbal and tripod are you using in the shots above, and do you like them? I have a pretty nice monopod, but our tripod is nothing special.

What is it about video that you're finding challenging? For me, I find video easier than photos because the slower shutter speed lets so much more light in, and there's no hunting for the perfect shot. Just wait, and it'll be in the clip somewhere! It's easy to just leave the camera purring and then use the NLE to stitch together only the good parts.

The real time consuming part of video is the audio, as matching music is super time consuming. Other than that, I've always had a lot of fun working with video.

The Gimbal is a Ronin S and I really like it. I bought it a year ago or so and I used it exclusively for tracking shots. I used to use a super expensive gyro set up but the gimbal was an improvement. Here's the sort of shot I can get with the gimbal. This was a straight shot - no photoshop other than taking out the second bike.

i-TLk7nH5-X2.jpg


This is from the shoot with Carlin. One of many amazing shots that will never get published and he was super excited for them to get out. I don't think that still shooters have caught on to using the gimbal for tracking shots as my set up was all pretty experimental.

So it's a happy accident that I have a nice gimbal for video work.

The Tripod is the largest carbon Gitzo they make - can't recall the name/model. I like Gitzo's and have used them for my whole career. It was essential when I shot medium format but it's overkill for my Sony's. It's worth too much to get rid of and on the rare occasion I need it it will extend to almost 10'. Another happy accident for video.

The thing I find difficult about video, and it's probably my inexperience, is that everything needs to be covered in two angles all the time. I mean, it doesn't it obviously, as my first YouTube was all done with a phone but it seems you've always got to have a wide and tight shot, you need detail and also unusual perspectives (GoPro's are good for this) and then there's the audio aspect. If I was shooting instead of being shot I could do both alternately or of course you'd have a second shooter.

I'm sure I'll get better at reducing what I'm shooting but right now I don't know what my style is, what I like, what works or anything so I'm overshooting to help me understand the process. Which is how building the buffer stand is now around 200GB of footage - or about the same as a half dozen still jobs.

What is NLE?

I'd like to find a way to snip out a lot of the footage and only keep what I need or like. Again, things I've got to learn. Tomorrow I'll get to painting and finishing the stand and then I'll work on editing. Well, Lucas and I are going to get his knife blank to shape and then probably some work on the XR exhaust.

Gregor
 

GeddyT

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NLE is Fantsypants for Non-Linear Editor. I believe earlier in the thread you mentioned Premiere was your NLE of choice? It's what I've been using forever, mostly because the Adobe Suite is pretty one-stop shopping. I once did a project for the family that involved Premiere, After Effects, Photoshop, Illustrator, and Audition. All for a two minute (max) little video. Probably put 30 hours of work into it, which is insane.

I hear you on the massive cache of raw footage you'll end up with if you cling to it like a hoarder. I have terabytes of the stuff stacked up for reasons I no longer really understand. It's definitely not a bad idea to shoot with the highest bitrate codec possible, as it's the only prayer of even minor color correction--it's not like shooting RAW photos. No sense keeping that high res footage around once it's been edited together and uploaded, though. That's a definite disadvantage of video vs. stills: unless you're filling multi-TB drives from a RED or Arri, you're shooting footage that has a fraction of the latitude for pushing color that a raw photo has. You have to get it way closer to "right" out of the camera, and matching cameras becomes more important. Even excellent video codecs are extremely lossy, so white balance, color profile, contrast, sharpness settings matter in-camera.

Not as much as compelling content, though, which tends to make viewers forget all that other stuff. Keep up the good work.
 

BORING HOP YARD

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I prefer to use my worm drive saw with a Diablo blade, cuts through 1 inch aluminum like butter, I have also cut some 1/4 steel. I use a saw guide for stright cuts.
My old Robotics team showed this to me and said they have been doing it for years.

Diablo
7-1/4 in. x 56-Tooth Aluminum/ Laminate Metal Cutting Blade
7-1/4 in. x 48-TPI Cermet Steel Demon Ferrous Metal Cutting Saw Blade
 

GeddyT

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I prefer to use my worm drive saw with a Diablo blade, cuts through 1 inch aluminum like butter, I have also cut some 1/4 steel. I use a saw guide for stright cuts.
My old Robotics team showed this to me and said they have been doing it for years.

Diablo
7-1/4 in. x 56-Tooth Aluminum/ Laminate Metal Cutting Blade
7-1/4 in. x 48-TPI Cermet Steel Demon Ferrous Metal Cutting Saw Blade

I've always treated aluminum like particularly hard wood: Low tooth count, carbide teeth, rip away. I have blades I use just for aluminum for both the 10" table saw and 12" miter saw. Between those two, I've never had the need to use the circular saw, although I wouldn't hesitate if the need arose.

Steel, though? Either cutoff wheel on grinder or recip, depending on the shape and thickness. I've never tried a ferrous metal blade on a circular saw, but now I'm intrigued. My buddy Andrew does a LOT of cutting in steel, so he bought a dedicated saw just for this purpose. It works amazingly well, but it got me thinking: "How is this thing better than the circular saw I have at home were I to put a steel cutting blade on it?"

I looked into it, though, and the big difference is blade speed. Taking RPM and blade diameter into consideration, the surface speed of the blade on my worm-drive would be about 40% faster than that of the dedicated steel cutting saw, so I dropped it and went back to grinder or recip.

Now I'm back to being curious again... One trick I've learned for cutting metal on wood saws is to use one size smaller blade than standard to slow the tooth speed down. The aluminum cutting blade I have for my miter saw, for instance, is a 10" blade. You could do this same trick for cutting steel, I suppose, particularly considering you're typically cutting thinner material. You'd only lose the ability to cut very specifically sized tubing (bigger than undersized blade cut depth but smaller than standard), but that's it.
 

jake28

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Aug 28, 2018
Messages
483
Location
SF, CA
I've always treated aluminum like particularly hard wood: Low tooth count, carbide teeth, rip away. I have blades I use just for aluminum for both the 10" table saw and 12" miter saw. Between those two, I've never had the need to use the circular saw, although I wouldn't hesitate if the need arose.

Steel, though? Either cutoff wheel on grinder or recip, depending on the shape and thickness. I've never tried a ferrous metal blade on a circular saw, but now I'm intrigued. My buddy Andrew does a LOT of cutting in steel, so he bought

Now I'm back to being curious again... One trick I've learned for cutting metal on wood saws is to use one size smaller blade than standard to slow the tooth speed down.


One issue I overlooked once and now can’t ignore, cutting Al sheets with a circ saw makes a tremendous mess of very hot metal chips. Make sure you’ve got proper PPE, because a couple of hot chips through synthetic shorts will double your vocabulary.
 
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