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Hot water tank melting?

Moosefire

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So, came around the water tank to check on it and there was some concern with what I saw. I'm not sure if the brown mark in the picture is from melting/burning or if that's just some residue from the tape that had come off of the ducting (which I just retaped) sorry I didnt get a pic of the old tape before I fixed it, but should I be concerned? I'm now plugging in a carbon monoxide detector just to be safe, but I know nothing about these things, so I'd rather ask you fellas with the experience. 4a50c31dc82b31d75aa398e6f848fafc.jpg353c14735425b274920d7ccbcb6cbf0e.jpg0616a04bfec0184f415f311f64067ac5.jpg0e79a4fef29bf392910e9305912b32b4.jpg

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Showkey

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I will. If you think you have a mess now, just leave that tape on there for awhile.

melting due to exhaust gas not going up and out through chimney.

Why do you have tape on your vent?

OP these guys are questioning the use and practice of the Duck tape. Potential for a HUGE problem !!!!!!! FIRE and CO to mention a few issues.

Duck tape and the flue temperatures are not compatible.
If that tape is covering rust, corrosion or damage it must be fixed and inspection of the entire pipe is required. See post #7
 
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59 wagon man

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check the entire flue or chimney . this maybe a sign of more problems. please take a picture of the whole flue. I could use a good laugh , it's been a rough day replaced riser in 3 apts without a helper
 
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Moosefire

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Lol I'll post a picture soon. The flu is actually flexible pipe, it was like this when I moved in, but theres some smaller straight pipe around here somewhere.....

I did put an alarm down there too, nothing for the last few hours [emoji1696]

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MoonRise

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Do NOT-NOT-NOT use "Duck Tape" (or similar fabric/plastic tape) on duct work!

Absolutely do NOT use "Duck Tape" (or other fabric/plastic tape) on the exhaust for a gas-fired water heater!

Next, you might have an undersized vent (for the BTU size of the burner) on that gas water heater. Vent pipe or the 'funnel' part might be the wrong diameter.

Or you have other problems with the venting and chimney.

Or multiple issues.

(and "Duck tape" or other cloth/plastic tape is not rated to be used on ducting either. Foil DUCT tape is the thing to use on ducts.)

Get it FIXED properly ASAP.

Before you have a bad situation. Like carbon monoxide poisoning. Or a fire.

No joking.
 

MoonRise

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Flex pipe on a gas-fired water heater vent/flue?

NO-NO-NO !!!!!!!

Solid metal vent-rated piping is REQUIRED.

Fix that ASAP!
 
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Moosefire

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Here's for the guy asking for a laugh...3f5ea4de3a0d41be855282d8d3cab6d7.jpg

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Moosefire

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Here's the other side. Its directed into the chimney flue. A quick phone call to dad since HD is closed, luckily he had the 90 and the adapter laying around, I had the pipe here at the house. Does this look better7cae37561a6456253e4d1d22072da314.jpg

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rlitman

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...Does this look better...

It still doesn't look good. Anyway, your first problem is the fact that the flu isn't taking the exhaust, so the exhaust is spilling over the top of the heater, causing the melting.

The good news is that water heaters have very efficient burners that are actually smaller than the combined burners on a typical household range, so even un-vented like it is (and it is NOT venting), that would explain why your CO detector isn't going off. But that's not exactly good news, because you shouldn't be running an unsupervised appliance like a water heater unvented.

So, start by seeing who's nesting in your flue!
 
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Darby9

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Let us know how the *** kicking of either your new landlord or your property inspector went. Hope he/she learns their lesson.
 

harley jim

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The pipe should be solid not flex, there should be a draft going up the chimney.
light a small piece of paper then blow it out and hold it by the hat the smoke should be drawn up the pipe if it dose not draw the pipe or chimney is plugged,
something is in it. It needs to be checked. I had raccoons move in my chimney once. Birds try to nest on top,

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Jeepster04

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What you have going on now looks much better but I would go ahead and replace all of the flex with solid pipe.
 
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Moosefire

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What you have going on now looks much better but I would go ahead and replace all of the flex with solid pipe.
It is, the bit at the end is a 90 degree fitting
c8b1ae8e03692542d131c02d1cd774fd.jpg


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Jim greengo

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Pull it apart and make sure the chimney is clear and drafting out.
Around here that water heater would need to be on 4" all the way from heater to chimney since the furnace is not sharing a flue with it.
 

SGKent

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well at least no alien signals will get thru that area into the duct.

Don't want to insult anyone but lately I have been wondering how the USA came to have so many idiots in this Century. It takes kite flying with metallic wire in a lightning storm to a whole new level.
 

harley jim

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I agree who ever put all that together didn't have a clue what they were doing. At least the op new something wasn't right and had the sense to come and try to get some good advice and fix it the right way.

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ripperd

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melting due to exhaust gas not going up and out through chimney.

This. Your flue is not drafting. Normally the hot air rises up and eventually starts going out properly because it is warmer. However, if there is enough negative pressure in the house (ie, tons of bathroom fans running or other exhaust fans or the wind is blowing just right with windows open) the air will downdraft through the flue and the heat will come out the sides rather than going up the flue. Had this happen once at our old house.

edit: just saw the venting pictures. Get that fixed by someone who is reputable. That is a dangerous mess.
 
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That1Guy

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Mid Michigan
WOW! For it to melt that plastic, there has had to be a TON of exhaust gasses (CO) dumping into your house over an extended period of time . YIKES!

Years ago, I had a similar problem where mine was doing something similar but not to that degree. No melting. I noticed a cob web on the WH was blowing away from the exhaust hat so I looked into it. The old incense smoke trick showed me that it was flowing back out of the water heater vent. It took me a dumb minute to figure out what was happening but then again, it usually does - lol. My DWH exhausted into my chimney above where my boiler did. Originally it was fine but after the old boiler was upgraded to a power vented boiler, the boiler exhaust would blow straight into the chimney and basically pressurize it and push the hot gases out on the water heater like yours is doing. I corrected this by extending the boiler's steel exhaust pipe "up" inside the chimney, instead of just "into" it, and above the water heater entrance, which then created a sort of venturi effect and now, when the boiler runs it causes a vacuum/draft at the water heater.

Also, it matters what your exhaust pipe looks like outside....
Does it go above the peak of the building or at least have proper clearance so as to avoid downdrafts?

Like others have said, I'd definitely have a professional address that problem. Carbon monoxide and fire hazards are too serious to take lightly.
Best of luck on this.
 

Sawlog

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Illinois
You either have a plugged chimney or something in your house is causing a negative pressure on your house or utility room. Second look, looks like this is a basement. A range hood without proper make up air can do this or a return air from your furnace if it's in the same room as water heater.
Those plastic ring on top of the water heater are made that way to show you if you have flu spilling back in the room.
You can't tape the bottom under the vent, the hot flu gases will not rise up the flu without the dilution air coming in from u see the vent.
 

Sawlog

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Illinois
And there is nothing wrong with the flex chimney liner. That is common practice when running a new line up through a old brick or block chimney. Not many chimneys out there can you get b vent down. The flex chimney liners are made for that.
 
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