Need decent swaging tool for very infrequent DIY use

[stickshift]

I need a swager to terminate 1/8" wire rope using aluminum double barrel ferrules. This would be a very infrequently used tool, so I cannot justify the expense of a pro grade swaging tool. The swager would mostly be used for 1/8" wire rope, with perhaps occasional termination of 1/16" or 3/16" wire rope.

I borrowed the Everbilt 18" swager sold at Home Depot from a friend in the past, and while it worked on the 3/16" wire rope I was using, it was a hassle to use, requiring multiple squeezes to get the ferrule crimped to specified diameter. Reviews for this model aren't great, lots of complaints that the two halves of the jaws don't line up well.

Amazon has a Iwiss 15" swager that has good reviews, but maxes out at 1/8" wire rope (not a big deal), and at only 15" length, seems it barely has enough leverage to crimp ferrules for 1/8" wire rope.

Amazon also has a Campbell 18" swager that runs ~$10 more than the Everbilt, but gets much better reviews. I'm ok w/ spending an extra $10 to save on headaches.

Suggestions from guys experienced with swagers welcomed.

 

[rlitman]

I'd use my 6 ton hydraulic wire crimper. They can be found for $20 or so online if you're not in a rush.

 

[Toxictom]

I've used ones like this and have had good results. $25 isn't too bad for something you'll use sporadically. It'll do a couple different sizes too.

 

[budget76]

i bought one like this off ebay for $20 to do the end terminals of a cable railing. was hoping to be able to swage double barrel ferrules like OP is talking but can't see how the jaws would do it - can I?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZA2P3XM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

if it can, this would be my rec. Kind of a pain to squeeze, but for ~$20 it seems to work quite well.

if not, interested to see where this discussion lands. Want to use some of my spare cable outside for hanging some lighting

 

[stickshift]

I've used ones like this and have had good results. $25 isn't too bad for something you'll use sporadically. It'll do a couple different sizes too.

Thanks, that looks less frustrating to use than the consumer level pliers style swagers (at least based on my experience with the latter), even if it is slower - which isn't a big deal for my very infrequent use case.

I assume these will work with the double barrel aluminum ferrules sold at big box hardware stores, such as: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-8-in-Aluminum-Ferrule-and-Stop-Set-43254/205887928

 

[rlitman]

i bought one like this off ebay for $20 to do the end terminals of a cable railing. was hoping to be able to swage double barrel ferrules like OP is talking but can't see how the jaws would do it - can I?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZA2P3XM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

if it can, this would be my rec. Kind of a pain to squeeze, but for ~$20 it seems to work quite well.

if not, interested to see where this discussion lands. Want to use some of my spare cable outside for hanging some lighting

The double barrel and oval ferrules won't work in the hex jaws that come with that crimper, but if you're the creative type, and have some scrap steel and a grinder, making jaws shouldn't be all that difficult.

 

[stickshift]

The double barrel and oval ferrules won't work in the hex jaws that come with that crimper, but if you're the creative type, and have some scrap steel and a grinder, making jaws shouldn't be all that difficult.

Thanks, I, too, was confused by your suggestion for a hydraulic wire crimper for this double barrel ferrule application.

 

[bpjr]

I use the "Swage It" clamping tool for doing sailboat wire. It's slow but works fine for occasional use and professional results. It's the lowest priced swaging tool you will find.

 

[stickshift]

I use the "Swage It" clamping tool for doing sailboat wire. It's slow but works fine for occasional use and professional results. It's the lowest priced swaging tool you will find.

Yeah, that's the style I went with. I prefer slow with less frustration over potentially faster but more frustration (consumer level pliers-type swagers), especially for very infrequent use.

 

[HenryAZ]

I've used and have had good results. $25 isn't too bad for something you'll use sporadically. It'll do a couple different sizes too.

I also have the Nicopress tool. Mine has 5 holes/sizes, and works very well. IIRC, it came with a sheet metal gauge to check that you've swaged down to the right size.

 

[lardy1]

Splicing wire rope is not an incredibly complicated process. Especially in that small of size. I'm way out of practice but my job as an Able Seaman required it.

 

[sweetk30]

i just use my T&B wire crimper that goes up to 4/0 wire size . they were my dads from the 70's .

almost like this pair here in the pic .

 

[mikegt4]

I use the "Swage It" clamping tool for doing sailboat wire. It's slow but works fine for occasional use and professional results. It's the lowest priced swaging tool you will find.

I also use a "Swage It" tool, my Dad bought it when we built a sailboat back in the early 1960's. I found that it works best if I only tension the bolts to hold everything in place then I put the tool in my shop press to do the actual swaging.

 

[stickshift]

I also use a "Swage It" tool, my Dad bought it when we built a sailboat back in the early 1960's. I found that it works best if I only tension the bolts to hold everything in place then I put the tool in my shop press to do the actual swaging.

Along those lines, maybe putting the tool in a large vise would work?

Of course, I'll try the bolts, with grease, first. And if they snap, I may look into getting hardened replacement bolts.

 

[bpjr]

Along those lines, maybe putting the tool in a large vise would work?

Of course, I'll try the bolts, with grease, first. And if they snap, I may look into getting hardened replacement bolts.

Holding some 1/4" wire types tight around a thimble can be tedious but I do it without a vice no problem. On sailboats I do the lower swages while on the boat with only a wrench. I've done mostly 1x19 SS and smaller 7x19. There's no need to grease or tighten the bolts anything past their torque values either. All you will do is stretch the bolts. The clamping blocks hit "home" and do the correct sizing and limit compression pressure to a certain value.