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Ghostshield 4500 & 8510 application

purediesel

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Apr 17, 2016
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193
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Ada Oh
About 8 months ago I purchased 4500 and 8510 for my 50x80 shop floor and I am finally getting around to applying it since the weather is getting better and the temps are getting to where they need to be. It's been a troublesome road with this floor or it would have been done sooner. Just a quick 2 cents for people pouring new concrete, DO NOT put a cure and seal on the floor. Its a temporary coating which will cause you nothing but headache and more money in the long run. Just flood the floor with a garden hose for a few days. So enough with the rant.. I wanted to ask the experts out there if the preferred methods for applying this combo still stands? 8 months ago we were instructed on this forum to spray the 4500 just enough to what the concrete accepts and no more, while the 8510 was over saturation to the point of a heavy a flood coat. Also wait 5-7 days in between the 2 products. Thanks for the input!
 
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Shea

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You are correct. Just make sure you dilute the 4500 with 3 parts water to 1 part 4500. Densifiers can take a full 7 days to react with the concrete, that is why there is the waiting period for best results.
 

Garage Flooring

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May 21, 2011
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Grand Junction, CO
About 8 months ago I purchased 4500 and 8510 for my 50x80 shop floor and I am finally getting around to applying it since the weather is getting better and the temps are getting to where they need to be. It's been a troublesome road with this floor or it would have been done sooner. Just a quick 2 cents for people pouring new concrete, DO NOT put a cure and seal on the floor. Its a temporary coating which will cause you nothing but headache and more money in the long run. Just flood the floor with a garden hose for a few days. So enough with the rant.. I wanted to ask the experts out there if the preferred methods for applying this combo still stands? 8 months ago we were instructed on this forum to spray the 4500 just enough to what the concrete accepts and no more, while the 8510 was over saturation to the point of a heavy a flood coat. Also wait 5-7 days in between the 2 products. Thanks for the input!

You are correct. Just make sure you dilute the 4500 with 3 parts water to 1 part 4500. Densifiers can take a full 7 days to react with the concrete, that is why there is the waiting period for the best results.

If you have smooth concrete and you are doing a flood coat application starts here: https://www.garageflooringllc.com/images/8510-Modified-Floor-Coat-Application.pdf

4500 should scare you. It's an awesome product. Almost to awesome. If you over-apply , it can be a nightmare. The 3:1 is for rough concrete. For smooth concrete go 4:1 or even 5:1. Only what soaks in right away. No more
 
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purediesel

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Ada Oh
Thanks guys. This floor is super smooth, actually 100 grit smooth. I'm using a 100 grit diamabrush to remove my old cure and seal and the finish is really nice. Since this floor is fairly large for a diy'er it works best for me to do this floor in two sections. Once I dilute the 4500 am I able to keep what's not used in a sealed bucket for a few weeks till I can get to the other section of the barn?
 
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purediesel

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Ok, I'll see what the first gallon does and adjust from there. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
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purediesel

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Ada Oh
Since I'm doing this floor in stages I remember being told that I need to make sure the 8510 doesn't get on the side that doesn't have the 4500 on it because the 4500 won't be able to penetrate. So what I've done is prepped the floor to about 2ft past a control joint that was cut into the floor. This joint is where I'll hopefully stop the spray of 8510. In case the 8510 bleeds to the other side I will over spray the 4500 past the joint, hence the floor prep 2ft past the joint. So I forgot to ask if the floor can be coated with 2nd coat of 4500 after the first has dried? Once the second half is prepped I'll have to spray it with the 4500 up to the control joint and want to make sure it's not going to affect anything if the first cost of 4500 is sprayed with a second coat.
 

Garage Flooring

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Since I'm doing this floor in stages I remember being told that I need to make sure the 8510 doesn't get on the side that doesn't have the 4500 on it because the 4500 won't be able to penetrate. So what I've done is prepped the floor to about 2ft past a control joint that was cut into the floor. This joint is where I'll hopefully stop the spray of 8510. In case the 8510 bleeds to the other side I will over spray the 4500 past the joint, hence the floor prep 2ft past the joint. So I forgot to ask if the floor can be coated with 2nd coat of 4500 after the first has dried? Once the second half is prepped I'll have to spray it with the 4500 up to the control joint and want to make sure it's not going to affect anything if the first cost of 4500 is sprayed with a second coat.

So the issue is the 8510 will repel the 4500. The best option would be to do all the 4500 first.. Otherwise stopping at a joint is the next best thing and anything that beads will need to be wiped off. Its not perfect but it can be done with care
 

benwah

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I always keep a cardboard spray shield for this exact purpose. You can also always use some 24-in or 48-in plastic and just mask the area you dont want it to come in contact with
 

romoman

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Bedford, NH
I just did the 8510 on my floor today and did the 4500 last weekend. If your floor is machine trowelled/burnished, call Ghostshield before you apply anything. The 4500 will not soak in like they describe and you will not use much of it. My garage is 24x36 and i barely used a 1.5 gallons mixed at 1:4. Sweaping the garage today, it seemed to dust less, so I think it worked.

My 8510 today went terrible in general. The solvent compatible sprayer from HD started to die about 1/3 of the way through and stopped working 3/4 of the way through. It did not soak in very well and I have no idea if it worked or not. I was told I would need 5-6 gallons and I used about 1.5. I had the floor pretty much flooded a few times (never drying in between) and used a squeege to get most of it off. I a soft broom to get the final areas really spread out.

The guys at Ghostshield told me my floor was too smooth. If I had called first, they would have had me etch it prior to everything and it would have worked better (so they said).

Now I have 4 gallons of 8510 if anyone wants to buy them!
 

That Guy Scott

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SoCal
I just did the 8510 on my floor today and did the 4500 last weekend. If your floor is machine trowelled/burnished, call Ghostshield before you apply anything. The 4500 will not soak in like they describe and you will not use much of it. My garage is 24x36 and i barely used a 1.5 gallons mixed at 1:4. Sweaping the garage today, it seemed to dust less, so I think it worked.

My 8510 today went terrible in general. The solvent compatible sprayer from HD started to die about 1/3 of the way through and stopped working 3/4 of the way through. It did not soak in very well and I have no idea if it worked or not. I was told I would need 5-6 gallons and I used about 1.5. I had the floor pretty much flooded a few times (never drying in between) and used a squeege to get most of it off. I a soft broom to get the final areas really spread out.

The guys at Ghostshield told me my floor was too smooth. If I had called first, they would have had me etch it prior to everything and it would have worked better (so they said).

Now I have 4 gallons of 8510 if anyone wants to buy them!
How did they recommend to etch it? Would a different finish when pouring the concrete have been better?
 
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romoman

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How did they recommend to etch it? Would a different finish when pouring the concrete have been better?

I think he was going to say to etch it with acid, but my cell dropped the call as he was telling me. I was sort of out of time to do things, so I wasn't going to etch anyway, so I didn't call back. He had said the downfall is the protection might not last as long. I poured some water on it today and it beaded up, so it seems to be working. Time will tell.
 

78SC4X4

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Port Orchard Wa
I’ve read the posts.........Post 3 doesn’t talk about “etching”. Thanks tho

True. It does not talk about etching. My thought was it provides the correct way to apply to smooth concrete so that etching is not required.

But I'm very interested in what folks are experiencing since this is what I plan to do myself.
 

That Guy Scott

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But I'm very interested in what folks are experiencing since this is what I plan to do myself.

Me too. I pour concrete on Saturday, so I have a bit until the building is even erected. I have the 8510/4500 sitting here, so I’m trying to get an idea of the actual process.
 
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purediesel

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Ada Oh
Yes, the 4500 will not soak in as they say if its very smooth, but its not hurting anything. It'll take what it wants, just don't let it puddle. For what its worth my floor has been profiled to 100 grit using a Diamabrush and I used 5 gallons on an area that measured 40x48. My 4500 was mixed at 4:1. I also used 7 gallons of 8510 6 days later. Because of weather and work I couldn't wait another day for the full 7 days. 4500 instructions says 5-7 days for cure, so 6 should have been sufficient. The 8510 was applied at exactly 300 sq ft per gallon as instructed and everything went ok. My slab was a bit cold at 46-47 degrees during application but the temp was 60 the next day. The 8510 did take along time to dry, so 12hrs after application I was forced to roll out any 8510 that was laying on the surface. 12hrs later most everything was dry enough to walk on. My long dry times were mainly caused by cold temps. I'm working on the other 40x48 portion right now and ill see how everything works when it's in the warmer temps.
 
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purediesel

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Ada Oh
So over the past 4 days I finished the prep work on the 2nd half of the floor. The process I've used for my situation has been a 100 grit diamabrush which made a pretty good slurry that got vacuumed. Following this was a "black" scrubbing pad which I think is around a 150 grit was used, this was mainly used to bring the concrete slurry that was left behind and dried back to the surface to be vacuumed. Finally the last step to ensure the surface was as clean as I could get it was to wet the floor for a 3rd time and use a push broom to scrub and then squeegee the floor dry. So after this has all dried for roughly 24 hours it was time for the 4500 to be applied, which was today's job. So everything about this side of the shop has been totally different than the other half and I'm guessing that it has to deal with this side was poured earlier in the day so it may have cured a bit different. Anyways, this side barely used any 4500..like probably a total of 2-2.5 gallons. The other half of the shop I was able to apply roughly 3-3.5 gallons. I could tell it was getting absorbed and not to go any further with application so I just moved on and said it was good enough. After talking with Justin with Garage Flooring you DO NOT want to over apply the 4500 so once it was good and absorbed I walked around and rolled out the few puddles that were laying around. Its amazing what differences can be in the same slab poured at the same time. So now its the waiting period of 5-7 days and the 8510 will go on.
 

romoman

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Bedford, NH
The people at Ghostshield told me it was 7 days between coats, no question. I'd be surprised if cheating it a few would be that big of a deal, but I waited to be safe.
 
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purediesel

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If you read off Ghostshields PDF file it says 5-7. Sometimes life tells you what to do not the sales department haha.
 

Garage Flooring

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The people at Ghostshield told me it was 7 days between coats, no question. I'd be surprised if cheating it a few would be that big of a deal, but I waited to be safe.

If you read off Ghostshields PDF file it says 5-7. Sometimes life tells you what to do not the sales department haha.

We tell people 7 that figure 5 is good. We tell people 5-7 they think 4 is good. Present company excluded of course. As I understand it, it is not as much about drying as it is about letting it finish working.
 
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