standard splitting wedge or cone-shaped wedge?

[stickshift]

For logs that are too tough for me to split using a splitting axe (I'm using the Husky 4lb splitter), I'll probably go wedge + sledge. Do the cone-shaped wedges make splitting easier? Certainly looks like they are easier to get started into the log.

Not looking for hydraulic splitters; just not doing enough volume to warrant expense, maintenance or storage space.

 

[larry_g]

I have tried a cone type here on softwood and it just deformed the wood, not split it. The regular wedge would split it. So I'm going to have to say it probably will depend on the wood your working with. I also know that in some instances I have used two or three wedges in a large tough piece of wood, so get one of each and learn for yourself what works in your species of wood. You may also find that a maul will do a better job for you. With a maul you can split or hammer with one tool, no need for a sledge.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Ton ton]

I use a regular wedge.

 

[engineer2]

Get one of each. Use the second one when the first one gets stuck.

 

[RTM]

I have several normal wedges, and one square one. Not impressed with the square one. Maybe it needs really dry wood, or a better maul user.

 

[ericm]

I'll second the splitting maul. Though on tough wood a wedge and sledge (or the back side of the maul) works better.

 

[Lassen Forge]

For softwood and semi-green hardwood, a maul and a sledge. For hardwood, and really dry softwood, a "wood grenade" and a bigger sledge. And for a lot of splitting - I borrow my neighbor's splitter!

 

[stickshift]

Watched a video of this cone shaped wedge just bouncing out of the log. I think I'll get a more traditional wedge.

 

[Bretny]

Have you tried a fiskars splitting axe? The weight of the axe/maul is less important then the head is shaped properly.

Over half of the wood I split by hand I dont even stand up with this fiskars splitting axe....kind of like a golf swing. With a lighter axe and not having to stand up rounds it takes alot of work out of splitting. I have also split red oak that even split in half it takes 2 guys to pickup.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

I agree with others... I've had better luck with regular wedges... Get at least 2.... But even so they are so cheap you can buy the cone or grenade and have it at the ready.... Maybe the type of wood you're splitting will actually work with the grenade... I did pine eucalyptus and Oak and some citrus and the grenade never worked for me.

A splitting axe, a maul, and a couple regular wedges are my go to. (Plus my new M18 chainsaw, which is much more convenient than my gas Stihls (for homeowner stuff)).

 

[stickshift]

Have you tried a fiskars splitting axe? The weight of the axe/maul is less important then the head is shaped properly.

I have the Husky 4lb splitting axe - I think it's very similar to the Fiskars. It's great, but I have some logs that I can't split with it.

 

[victor252]

I always thought the biggest aid to splitting logs was giving them at least a few weeks to dry out. It's a night and day difference. How long do you let them dry before splitting?

 

[u2slow]

I split 90% of my wood by hand with a 8# maul. This is typically doug fir - rounds up to 16-18" diameter so. 16-18" lengths fit my stove best

Larger or knottier rounds get treated to a std wedge and 10# sledge. If its really bad, I'll 'split' them with the chainsaw.

An axe has little use for me unless I'm making kindling or clearing off branches.

 

[nomad69]

Maul and a standard wedge, works on everything.

 

[Kaizen]

I have a grenade as well as standard wedges. Not explosive. Oh and a small sledge....engineers hammer? Good to hit maul when gets stuck


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[stickshift]

This evening I learned that a second wedge is not optional. Freeing up the stuck wedge by half-speed chopping away at very twisted log with the splitting axe was not fun.

Maybe I'll get a cone shaped wedge as the second/rescue wedge.

I have a 3lb mini-sledge to get the wedge started and that works out well. Splitting axe to create a gash, wedge and mini-sledge to get wedge seated. Will need a lighter sledgehammer - borrowed by friend's 16lb sledge, which I knew would be very difficult for me to swing, and that was certainly confirmed. I cannot get any speed while maintaining accuracy. Or maybe I'll just ask my friend to swing it. Probably 10lb will be more in my range.

 

[RTM]

Will need a lighter sledgehammer - borrowed by friend's 16lb sledge, which I knew would be very difficult for me to swing, and that was certainly confirmed. I cannot get any speed while maintaining accuracy. Or maybe I'll just ask my friend to swing it. Probably 10lb will be more in my range.

I picked up a monster 16# for cheap, only used once, looks like someone missed on their first swing and broke the handle. I’m keeping it around for dead weight, as none of the real men I know want it, and I can barely lift it.

 

[metaldad]

wedges, and a grenade. from hf. they do not last forever. busted a few of them. and try avoiding where the branches grow out from the stump, unless the log is well seasoned and dry

 

[jonshonda]

wedges, and a grenade. from hf. they do not last forever. busted a few of them.

Wedges or grenade from India....not a f#cking chance.

Winter is usually when wood is the easiest to split, but I have had some big oak rounds that just laughed at my 8lb splitting maul, and spit out my wedge with a 12lb maul hitting as hard as I could. Put the wedge out towards the edge, don't try and split the hole round in half, just start taking out chunks. and work your way around.

 

[stickshift]

Ended up getting that second wedge, and opted for the cone wedge. Much easier to split tough rounds with two wedges and don't have to worry about getting first wedge stuck.

In my very limited experience, the cone wedge is more likely to bounce out, but when it sticks in, it works well.

 

[SeisMec]

Force = mass x acceleration.

A two or three lb hammer with a full swing to start the wedge - so it stands on it's own.

A four to six lb sledge to drive the wedge. Starting with the head of the sledge at my side for about a 270 degree swing. This old fart has trouble swinging a heavier sledge with any control in that large an arc.

 

[finn]

Fiskars splitting axe. They come in two lengths now. Mine isn’t the original shorter version buy reports are that the newer longer handle version is great too.

The Fiscars is shorter, lighter, and sharper than a conventional splitting mail of the old style, so you end up with much higher head velocity at impact with the log end.

A side benefit is that, being lighter, it is easier on your shoulders and upper body.

I haven’t used my grandfathers splitting wedge or my fathers conical wedges for years.

The Fiscars is sometimes faster than setting up the old gas powered hydraulic splitter for relatively small splitting jobs.

I think Stijl now sells a similar splitting axe.

 

[stickshift]

Fiskars splitting axe. They come in two lengths now. Mine isn’t the original shorter version buy reports are that the newer longer handle version is great too.

The Fiscars is shorter, lighter, and sharper than a conventional splitting mail of the old style, so you end up with much higher head velocity at impact with the log end.

A side benefit is that, being lighter, it is easier on your shoulders and upper body.

I haven’t used my grandfathers splitting wedge or my fathers conical wedges for years.

The Fiscars is sometimes faster than setting up the old gas powered hydraulic splitter for relatively small splitting jobs.

I think Stijl now sells a similar splitting axe.

So does HD. I got the Husky splitting axe: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-4...34-in-Fiberglass-Handle-HD-SPF4-5LB/206768943

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

Buy a Fiskars X27 axe and don't even bother with the wedges.

 

[Ralf11]

May I suggest a French Twist?

 

[marinusdees]

I have tried a cone type here on softwood and it just deformed the wood, not split it. The regular wedge would split it. So I'm going to have to say it probably will depend on the wood your working with. I also know that in some instances I have used two or three wedges in a large tough piece of wood, so get one of each and learn for yourself what works in your species of wood. You may also find that a maul will do a better job for you. With a maul you can split or hammer with one tool, no need for a sledge.

lg
no neat sig line

This guy lives in loggin' country. He knows wherein he speaks.

 

[stickshift]

Buy a Fiskars X27 axe and don't even bother with the wedges.

This was some very twisty wood. Friend and I were taking turns hitting it with the Husky 4lb splitting axe, and not getting anywhere fast. Wedges made a huge difference.

For some other logs I had, the axe alone was sufficient.

 

[stickshift]

I have tried a cone type here on softwood and it just deformed the wood, not split it. The regular wedge would split it. So I'm going to have to say it probably will depend on the wood your working with. I also know that in some instances I have used two or three wedges in a large tough piece of wood, so get one of each and learn for yourself what works in your species of wood. You may also find that a maul will do a better job for you. With a maul you can split or hammer with one tool, no need for a sledge.

lg
no neat sig line

I now have regular and cone wedges, so I think I'm good to go for when the axe isn't enough.

 

[Bretny]

Buy a Fiskars X27 axe and don't even bother with the wedges.

That's the one I use. I also have an x15. It's about a 24in handle with a splitting head.

Once you use one of these fiskars splitting axes you will be looking at your old 8lb maul like it's something from the stone age.

Fiskars also have a lifetime warranty..and it does work and you just have to send them pictures. I have broken a few of there smaller axes but after years of abuse. I even chopped a shed to pieces with my splitting axe, cutting through nails and all without much damage to the edge at all.