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BEFORE & AFTER....A Tool Polisher's Haven

skorpio

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Joined
Aug 22, 2011
Messages
47
Here's my Johnson Model B band saw. Before ($20 Craigslist find):



After replacing all the bearings and getting a decent blade on it, it cuts straight! I ended up making new sheet metal parts since the stuff that was on it was in really rough shape. My only regret is doing Rustoleum paint from a rattle can instead of something a bit nicer.

You fabricated the base? Looks great.
 
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Bears Fan

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Jan 26, 2012
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Okay you get points for a very high cool factor :pimpflash
 

Bowtie4life

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Apr 17, 2020
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130
Location
Washington DC
Here's my Johnson Model B band saw. Before ($20 Craigslist find):



And after:



After replacing all the bearings and getting a decent blade on it, it cuts straight! I ended up making new sheet metal parts since the stuff that was on it was in really rough shape. My only regret is doing Rustoleum paint from a rattle can instead of something a bit nicer.

Yes........very nice save I must say too. Looks very nice and well done.
 

skorpio

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Joined
Aug 22, 2011
Messages
47
Thanks for all the saw comments!

Yes, I made that base. Since then, I've done a second one to allow leveling the saw for a conveyor infeed setup. I need to do a build thread on that.

The base absolutely looks the part, very mid-century industrial look to it. Quite impressed. How much of the skin of the saw did you need to fab up? Is it all welded up in the corners of those curves? It looks all factory stamped and I'm betting you don't have some giant stamping press to do draw that out like that, and from the looks of the original corners neither did the OEM. The result looks all so subtle but that's some crazy work there. Far more impressive than my stupid little 4x6" China special.
 

Graham08

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Joined
Dec 10, 2007
Messages
713
Location
Iron Station, NC
The base absolutely looks the part, very mid-century industrial look to it. Quite impressed. How much of the skin of the saw did you need to fab up? Is it all welded up in the corners of those curves? It looks all factory stamped and I'm betting you don't have some giant stamping press to do draw that out like that, and from the looks of the original corners neither did the OEM. The result looks all so subtle but that's some crazy work there. Far more impressive than my stupid little 4x6" China special.

Thanks! Here are a few more pictures that tell the story.

The ends are mostly one piece, except for the corners. You can see the welds here. This is basically how the factory parts were made, but they were spot welded, so after having stuff dropped on it a few times, they popped out and got lost.

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The center pieces are just a bend and a return flange. I had to make new standoffs to attach them to the saw because those were also pretty well trashed.

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The back end with the belt guard was a bit of a challenge. I did the belt guard as a separate piece.

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Then fit it onto the back end.

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Finished pieces before paint. I used some butterfly Dzus buttons to secure the pieces in place.

49855917942_735b62e06f_c.jpg
 

skorpio

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Joined
Aug 22, 2011
Messages
47
Wow Graham impressive, and has that mid-century one piece deep drawn stamped look. Looks like you did the covers on a brake then notched out where the corner bend is. The welded blended corners really add that finishing touch, which they never would have done back then, no one seam welded sheetmetal. But I am sure when it was originally designed this was the look that was intended by the guy who designed it, there just wasn't the budget for the press to do it as a single stamped piece and probably the only other way they would have been able to get that look back then was to braze and lead it. I am guessing this is probably an early to mid 1950's design?

Were you able to revive the original name and spec plates or did you have to reproduce them? The before pics certainly don't look like you had much to work with.
 

laser3kw

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Joined
Nov 17, 2012
Messages
7,276
Location
northen IL
Here's my Johnson Model B band saw. Before ($20 Craigslist find):



And after:



After replacing all the bearings and getting a decent blade on it, it cuts straight! I ended up making new sheet metal parts since the stuff that was on it was in really rough shape. My only regret is doing Rustoleum paint from a rattle can instead of something a bit nicer.

you sure polished up your Johnson real nice. Thanks for showing it to us!:thumbup: :pimpflash
 

Graham08

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Joined
Dec 10, 2007
Messages
713
Location
Iron Station, NC
Wow Graham impressive, and has that mid-century one piece deep drawn stamped look. Looks like you did the covers on a brake then notched out where the corner bend is. The welded blended corners really add that finishing touch, which they never would have done back then, no one seam welded sheetmetal. But I am sure when it was originally designed this was the look that was intended by the guy who designed it, there just wasn't the budget for the press to do it as a single stamped piece and probably the only other way they would have been able to get that look back then was to braze and lead it. I am guessing this is probably an early to mid 1950's design?

Were you able to revive the original name and spec plates or did you have to reproduce them? The before pics certainly don't look like you had much to work with.

Thanks! I'm not sure the exact time frame these were produced over. I'm guessing you're right about the era of the design. Dake still supports the B saw with some parts, and still make the bigger Model J.

I was actually able to restore the name plates. They were still on the saw in reasonable shape, just filthy. I gently bead blasted them, then used sign painter's 1-Shot enamel to repaint the black sections.
 

Garage Junkie

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Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
173
Location
Cleveland, OH
So I'm not sure what I've got here- I picked up this Milwaukee right angle drill at a garage sale today for $20. It does work, but obviously needs a new cord and chuck, a tear down and cleaning, etc..... Does anyone know what model this is? it looks like others in this thread, but it appears to have a red stripe around the body instead of the lightning bolt I've seen on the side of the other drills. Perhaps its an earlier model?

Where would I go to get parts? I need a cord, the plate that goes on top of the handle, a chuck (I assume a modern 33B would be fine) and whatever else inside once I get it apart...
 

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Dalez

Active member
Joined
Dec 27, 2017
Messages
26
Starting off small. This little wrench has cleaned up quite a bit. I will keep at it for awhile and see if it polishes up better
 

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Scrounga

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Canberra Australia
Hi there, my name is Stuart Goddard from Australia and Im a tool polisher as well. My passion is Australian made tools but good tools from anywhere in the world can make it into my collection. My primary focus is on Australian made G clamps and I have been building sets from various Australian manufacturers for several years. Recently I have been collecting vices. 2 1/2” vices in particular and here is some of my collection. I would love to find a 2 1/2” Wilton bullet vice to add by the way :fingersx: The two at the back haven’t been touched yet and I have two more, one a lovely English Record in my workshop getting a polish which makes ten vices in all. I think the olive green one is my favourite, it was made in Germany. hope you like them.
View attachment 1021549.
 

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CrocBox

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Nov 10, 2019
Messages
11
Location
FL
Beautiful collection! Thanks for sharing your passion.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
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steaks&anvils

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Joined
Oct 15, 2016
Messages
2,470
Location
Colorado
Hi there, my name is Stuart Goddard from Australia and Im a tool polisher as well. My passion is Australian made tools but good tools from anywhere in the world can make it into my collection. My primary focus is on Australian made G clamps and I have been building sets from various Australian manufacturers for several years. Recently I have been collecting vices. 2 1/2” vices in particular and here is some of my collection. I would love to find a 2 1/2” Wilton bullet vice to add by the way :fingersx: The two at the back haven’t been touched yet and I have two more, one a lovely English Record in my workshop getting a polish which makes ten vices in all. I think the olive green one is my favourite, it was made in Germany. hope you like them.
View attachment 1021549.

Welcome to the board. Nice restore, I like the green with the polished highlights. Remember, up in this hemisphere, we spell it "vise".:beer:

Try these two vise threads:

Vises:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44782

Vise repair:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252830
 

Scrounga

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Canberra Australia
Hi, um I don’t mean to be technical but isn’t England up in your hemisphere? :lol:
Unfortunately Australia, like Canada didn’t have a Noah Webster (Webster’s dictionary) to go through and change a lot of the archaic English spelling of words so we are still stuck with all the unnecessary “U”S in words like ‘colour & arbour’ and others like ‘grey’ and ‘tyre’ and then ‘mitre’ and ‘centre’. There’s over a hundred to get your head around but as long as we all understand each other I guess there’s no problem as long as you can put up with my “spelling mistakes” Cheers my friend and thanks for the links. :beer:
 

skorpio

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Joined
Aug 22, 2011
Messages
47
Well, back in the 18th century the Americans had the forethought to know some day we'd be searching for them on ebay and wouldn't want to see images of Don Johnson in the results.
 

Jayman17

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Joined
Feb 6, 2017
Messages
3,795
Location
Seattle, Wa
Here's my Johnson Model B band saw. Before ($20 Craigslist find):



And after:



After replacing all the bearings and getting a decent blade on it, it cuts straight! I ended up making new sheet metal parts since the stuff that was on it was in really rough shape. My only regret is doing Rustoleum paint from a rattle can instead of something a bit nicer.

Wow that's a helluva nice job on that bandsaw! :rocker:

Jay
 

Bigblockyeti

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Joined
Feb 1, 2018
Messages
2,550
Location
Upstate, SC
I'm working on rehabbing a Van Dorn drill right now and wanted to see what others are doing to clean up brass tags. It appears there was some black paint used for the background and the raised letters would be left uncovered? I'm not sure how far I'll go with the cleanup of this drill but I always take care of function before form so it will absolutely be ready to work safely, how pretty it will be has yet to be determined.
 

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Bob Heine

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Oct 24, 2009
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Location
Boca Raton, Florida
I feel like I may have a problem but I haven't seen any strange vans and my family is not visiting. I bought a 58mm throttle body for my '87 Corvette (stock is 48mm). Not wanting to port the OEM intake chamber, I bought a used one on eBay for $55 and opened it up.
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I polished the aluminum engine bits years ago so the replacement needed to get the same treatment after I port matched the throttle body to the intake. This is the before/after.
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The car is 34 years old with almost 88,000 miles and it has a slight clunk when you put it in gear. I decided to check the universals but of course replaced them when I realized how much work is involved. While the aluminum axles were out, may as well spiff them up a little. You know how people judge you for having dirty axles. One down and one to go.
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Bighead38

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Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
5,612
Location
Rockland County NY
I feel like I may have a problem but I haven't seen any strange vans and my family is not visiting. I bought a 58mm throttle body for my '87 Corvette (stock is 48mm). Not wanting to port the OEM intake chamber, I bought a used one on eBay for $55 and opened it up.
attachment.php


I polished the aluminum engine bits years ago so the replacement needed to get the same treatment after I port matched the throttle body to the intake. This is the before/after.
attachment.php


The car is 34 years old with almost 88,000 miles and it has a slight clunk when you put it in gear. I decided to check the universals but of course replaced them when I realized how much work is involved. While the aluminum axles were out, may as well spiff them up a little. You know how people judge you for having dirty axles. One down and one to go.
attachment.php

I support you. If I take something off it gets cleaned, painted, or improved before going back on.
 

Bob Heine

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Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
10,703
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
Off , clean, repair, paint or polish>. It's an addiction many of us share . But it definitely makes the day fun.
Al, that's a perfect description. The '87 Corvette has lots of aluminum bits that can be polished pretty easily but the '72 Corvette is mostly steel so it involves a lot more paint.
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Capt Chrysler

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Mar 6, 2011
Messages
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Location
Middle of nowhere.
I feel like I may have a problem but I haven't seen any strange vans and my family is not visiting. I bought a 58mm throttle body for my '87 Corvette (stock is 48mm). Not wanting to port the OEM intake chamber, I bought a used one on eBay for $55 and opened it up.
attachment.php


I polished the aluminum engine bits years ago so the replacement needed to get the same treatment after I port matched the throttle body to the intake. This is the before/after.
attachment.php


The car is 34 years old with almost 88,000 miles and it has a slight clunk when you put it in gear. I decided to check the universals but of course replaced them when I realized how much work is involved. While the aluminum axles were out, may as well spiff them up a little. You know how people judge you for having dirty axles. One down and one to go.
attachment.php


See if you can find a set of big tube SLP runners for the intake. It will help.

Capt. Chrysler
 

Bob Heine

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Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
10,703
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
See if you can find a set of big tube SLP runners for the intake. It will help.

Capt. Chrysler
CC, I was searching for a set a couple of months ago when I found the used intake chamber and there were two advertised for around $700. I figured some more realistically priced ones might pop up but so far nothing. Of all the upgrades, those runners seemed to provide limited improvement. You have to remove the lower manifold and do a fair bit of porting to make the SLP runners effective.

I would prefer to put more time and money into my Big Block Corvette. A roller cam and fuel injection on it would be my dream.
 

2oolhound

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Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
5,918
Location
BC Canada
Nice job on the trailer! Night and day improvement! You should post the before photo beside the Done photo for an easier comparison.
 
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