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Epoxy/Polyurea Flooring

Hawkins

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2020
Messages
49
Location
Ohio
So here I am again -- my other posts were lost over whatever happened to the forums. Here's where I am at currently and would love advice even from some of the vendors on the site. I've waffled back and forth between tiles and epoxy/poly however, I think I am leaning more towards tile. I don't want to have to worry about floor jacks, etc. damaging tiles and needing to replace (albeit I understand super easy to replace) so I think epoxy is my solution. Here are a few questions and comments and would love the advice of readers:

I have a 4 car carriage style garage. 2 bays are front and 2 bays are side facing with a small connector in between (3-4 ft ish). It will be a lot easier for me to do a 2 car bay at a time -- ie. I wont have to rent something to store my stuff in. One side of the garage is roughly 500 sq ft + side walls/steps (i need to get more precise measurement here) and the other side is about 500 sq ft + side walls. The concrete is about 1.75 yrs old and I think the last moisture reading was around 5-6%. The cheapest quote I received is at about $4/sq ft for polyurea base coat, full flake, and polyurea top coat. My questions are below:

1) I've been looking at Legacy Industrial's products and doing outside reading. Seems that some places recommend a second coat to broadcast chips in. This has something to do with the surface tension in the first coat, etc. Would this be solved by using the Primer (Coat One) and Epoxy (Coat)? Any recommendations on using Epoxy vs. Polyurea for the Flake Receiver coat? I've heard pros to either. Are two coats really necessary for longevity?

2) Any difference between Nohr Prime vs. Standard Epoxy?

3) If doing full flake, is there a benefit to tinting the receiver coat? Is it worth the additional expense?

4)Legacy Ind. has multiple kinds of Anti-Skid media. I had a rustoleum floor with anti-skid and it performed terribly in the past. I busted my *** twice on wet floors. Is there a way to avoid this? Is this stuff that effective? How much per gallon?

5) I am still confused on polyurea vs polyaspartic. I assume polyaspartic performs better or last longer. Is it worthwhile to use Polyaspartic as a receiver coat? Or should it be the top clear coat? If polyaspartic, what are major differences between Xtreme 66 and PolyTopll offered by Legacy? The major differences i see are solid content and one is high gloss vs other at Gloss?

6) Because I am working on essentially 500 sq ft at a time and one side will be one weekend and the other side will likely be another weekend, I assume I need to treat my materials purchase as 2 different 500 sq ft jobs (with cushion).

7) Any thoughts on moisture barrier? Use this in lieu of primer if using SD Epoxy as receiver coat?


I've calculated costs as follows:
1) Note that to do my garage, I would need 4 gallons of Nohr-Prime which runs about $400 ($200 per 2 gallons). This if Primer is necessary? Standard Epoxy would be about $40 cheaper at $360

2)For the receiver coat, I need either Epoxy or Polyurea. I would probably need 5 gallons (maybe 6) of Polyurea as 1 gallon is 250 sq ft. This would be $864 for receiver coat or SD Epoxy. SD Epoxy would cost $804 (buy 2 - 3 gallons and 2 - 1.5 gallons due to needing to split garage in 2 segments)

3)Since doing Full Flake, I need 6 lbs/100 sq ft? I think i would be fine with 50 lbs because the overage of flakes from doing the first garage segment can be used on the second but 60 lbs of flake is $337. Going with 50lbs would be $258

4)Based on your comments above, I am on the fence with respect to Polyurea vs polyaspartic top coat. I'd like two coats. For Polyurea 2 coats, I would need about 10 gallons This is $1,358. One coat is $679. After reading (and I may be wrong from the above), it seems this has unlimited pot life so I shouldn't need to treat it as two separate jobs as long as I cover? If i chose polyaspartic, would two coats be necessary? For Polyaspartic Xtreme would cost me $1,445 for one coat and Poly Top II would be $1,485.

5) I'd also need anti-skid. 16 oz goes with 5 gallons- this adds about $32 to the cost

All in, I am looking at $3,000 - $3,500 based on the above + a couple hundred $ for supplies to clean, etch, etc. floor. I'd say I'd be in it for less than $4k.

Any cost savings to be had? Anywhere I can cut out from above? I look at the one quote I got for $4/sq ft and that's about where I am sitting with myself doing all the manual labor. Am I stupid? Is it worth it?

Appreciate your input and help on this. Man this turned into a long post!
 
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LegacyIndustrial

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,994
Location
deerfield, IL
I will save you a little brain damage. PolyTop2 is not for beginners and is only useful over FullFlake floors. If doing a full-flake go with 2 sealer coats of Nohr-S Polyurea.

If partial flake, Xtreme66 Polyaspartic is great for a sealer coat.

Never use Nohr-S as a receiver coat on a full-flake . It dries too quickly once on the floor. Always use our HD Epoxy for this. HD also self-primes in these applications.

Hope this helps your quest and we are open today if you want to discuss it further. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
 
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Hawkins

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2020
Messages
49
Location
Ohio
I will save you a little brain damage. PolyTop2 is not for beginners and is only useful over FullFlake floors. If doing a full-flake go with 2 sealer coats of Nohr-S Polyurea.

If partial flake, Xtreme66 Polyaspartic is great for a sealer coat.

Never use Nohr-S as a receiver coat on a full-flake . It dries too quickly once on the floor. Always use our HD Epoxy for this. HD also self-primes in these applications.

Hope this helps your quest and we are open today if you want to discuss it further. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

Brain damage has already occured :)

So if I understand you correctly (especially doing full flake), No primer, use HD Epoxy (not SD Epoxy) and PolyTop2 is most likely not for me so do 2 coats of Nohr-S?

Can you confirm the pot life on Nohr-S. I'd need 10 gallons to be used over several weeks. 5 gallons will be used over the course of one weekend with the next 5 being used over the next available and optimal weekend. It would be applied to the floor 2.5 gallons at each interval. Can I simply buy two 5 gallon containers, or do I need to separate order into each application (4 applications of approx 500 sq ft each)

What is a realistic expectation of how long the finish will last (ie. that gloss over the epoxy)?
 
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Hawkins

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2020
Messages
49
Location
Ohio
The Revision of costs is as follows:
1) HD Epoxy - 6 gallons total at $516
2) Full Flake - 60 lbs at $337
3) 2 Coats of Nohr-S - 10 gallons at $1,358
4) Anti skid 16 oz @ $32

Does Legacy ever offer any discounts? Anything exclusive for GJ members?

All-in price of $2,243.

Remaining questions:
1) Is there an issue with Surface Tension and HD Epoxy not bonding properly to concrete?
2) Is there a point to a moisture barrier in this application? As noted, my concrete was last measured at 5.5% moisture I believe
3)Is it recommended to diamond grind floor or acid etch good enough? Or should I diamond grind, then acid etch? I'd have to rent machines twice to diamond grind (one for phase one, one for phase two) but want to make sure it's done right!
4)Anything I should know before getting started?
5) Realistic expectation of how long this floor will last in a residential application. I am not real hard on my garage floors at all and don't leave garage doors open to be exposed to sun for long periods of time?

Thanks again for all your hope
 
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Hawkins

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2020
Messages
49
Location
Ohio
Your attention is invited to the post from tcotterbend.

Thanks for pointing this out. I read the OP's claims, investigated, and replied. While it's completely fair to consider other people's comments, I'd look more into the root of the actual commentary the OP provided. I analyzed and posted a review accordingly. My review was not attacking the OP but really just trying to see through the anger that OP didn't get his/her way.
 
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