floor epoxy on metal cabinets/lockers

[Kaizen]

I'm thinning my paint can herd. Have some left over unopened floor epoxy from my garage that i'm going to try and paint some shop items to match the floor.
Was going to scotchbrite and clean the painted metal and then either brush or roll it on. More i think about it i'm wondering if i do any more then a very dry brush on will it run badly? obviously don't want to have it seal the doors or such closed. I can do it with the doors open but would be a pain.
Don't want to ruin any spray guns by trying that route.
Any experience?

 

[benwah]

Scotchbrite pad is not enough, use at least 220 grit, I prefer 100-150. Sanding to bare metal is the best method. The original coating needs to be completely dull and it is best if it has some deep scratches in it. Any original coating that is peeling off must be completely removed and sand it to a feather edge.

Use a Wooster 50/50 Lambswool/Polyester, or Wooster Super-Doo-Z, 1/4" or 1/2" nap, buy one of each and find whichever works best for you. Then get another for your 2nd coat if you have enough. Also, 2 - 2" chip brushes, they're .99 cents each. Those will allow you to cut in and get the hard-to-reach places.

This will give you a "wavy" or "stiple-ish" texture but that's what happens when you don't spray.

If this is 100% solids epoxy, thin it about 10% to start with and see how it applies on a vertical surface, if you need to thin it up to 15-20% do it, but I wouldn't go too much more than that. Acetone will probably work in your situation, but it will make it kick faster. If you want a longer working time use xylene, but realize it is going to smell horrible until it has cured.

Mix small batches at a time so it doesn't heat up too fast. Wear gloves and respirator. Mask everything and anything that you dont want epoxy on.

Do not apply too heavy. Get a nice, even, coat on. Once it's covered give it 1 quick backroll and call it good.

Any bridging will have to be broken before the epoxy cures. If your hinges get covered it will be a little tough to open at first but will eventually rip the rest of the bonded coating off.. you can use the very edge bristles of your brush to get those pretty good.

 

[Kaizen]

Scotchbrite pad is not enough, use at least 220 grit, I prefer 100-150. Sanding to bare metal is the best method. The original coating needs to be completely dull and it is best if it has some deep scratches in it. Any original coating that is peeling off must be completely removed and sand it to a feather edge.

Use a Wooster 50/50 Lambswool/Polyester, or Wooster Super-Doo-Z, 1/4" or 1/2" nap, buy one of each and find whichever works best for you. Then get another for your 2nd coat if you have enough. Also, 2 - 2" chip brushes, they're .99 cents each. Those will allow you to cut in and get the hard-to-reach places.

This will give you a "wavy" or "stiple-ish" texture but that's what happens when you don't spray.

If this is 100% solids epoxy, thin it about 10% to start with and see how it applies on a vertical surface, if you need to thin it up to 15-20% do it, but I wouldn't go too much more than that. Acetone will probably work in your situation, but it will make it kick faster. If you want a longer working time use xylene, but realize it is going to smell horrible until it has cured.

Mix small batches at a time so it doesn't heat up too fast. Wear gloves and respirator. Mask everything and anything that you dont want epoxy on.

Do not apply too heavy. Get a nice, even, coat on. Once it's covered give it 1 quick backroll and call it good.

Any bridging will have to be broken before the epoxy cures. If your hinges get covered it will be a little tough to open at first but will eventually rip the rest of the bonded coating off.. you can use the very edge bristles of your brush to get those pretty good.

I figure if it laying flat then the epoxy should flow like in the floor so it will be smooth. The face of the lockers have a lot of vents and such so not sure how well a roller will work. Maybe a small one will be better. Depending on the temp I will need several as they will harden up quick. Going to lay some lockers out and give those a shot first to see how it goes. Thanks


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[benwah]

I figure if it laying flat then the epoxy should flow like in the floor so it will be smooth. The face of the lockers have a lot of vents and such so not sure how well a roller will work. Maybe a small one will be better. Depending on the temp I will need several as they will harden up quick. Going to lay some lockers out and give those a shot first to see how it goes. Thanks


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Best of luck. Didnt realize you were laying them flat. It will take a while to do them 1 side at a time! I would honestly try to do them standing first. If you don't apply the epoxy too thick it should not sag. Keep in mind if you put the coating on too thick it will run over your edges then you will have to either clean it off or coat that side entirely.

But if you are insistent on laying them flat and doing one side at a time that is acceptable[emoji482]

Please post pics

 

[Kaizen]

Best of luck. Didnt realize you were laying them flat. It will take a while to do them 1 side at a time! I would honestly try to do them standing first. If you don't apply the epoxy too thick it should not sag. Keep in mind if you put the coating on too thick it will run over your edges then you will have to either clean it off or coat that side entirely.

But if you are insistent on laying them flat and doing one side at a time that is acceptable[emoji482]

Please post pics

Well that’s the plan so the front looks the best. The run off is what I’m worried about. Going to have to watch the sides. Not doing the back. Going to do a locker first and see how it goes.


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