Proper way to do load side tap for solar?

[reader2580]

There is a lot of debate on what is the code compliant way to do a load side solar tap. I currently have a junction box below my meter base with a number of Polaris connectors in it for my solar tap. It was passed by the inspector.

What the tap does is feed the load center in my detached garage and then the solar is fed by a breaker off of that panel.

I want to upgrade the feed to the garage which requires larger wire. I can't get larger wire into the junction box as it is packed tight. Is it code compliant to buy a new Milbank 200 amp meter base and use the special lugs Milbank sells to add a tap? This means the feed to the garage can only be de-energized by pulling the meter.

Is it allowed to put a breaker ahead of the tap at the service entrance? I am looking at putting in a meter main to get ahead of the 2020 code. I don't want future work after the 2020 code goes into effect later this year to trigger the emergency disconnect requirement. Some 320/400 amp meter mains even have two main breakers, but would I be allowed to use one main breaker for the solar/garage feed? (Would use 320/400 amp base for 200 amp service as allowed by utility.)

 

[dcg9381]

I had to look up what this was.. I think you're describing LINE side tap (upstream of your breakers), correct?

The first question I'd have - is who is inspecting it? POCs can (and do) make up their own rules to some degree and many have a choice in deciding to allow various configurations. What I'm reading is that the requirements here will vary between jurisdiction based on POC... So, who is inspecting? My POC is vary narrow with solar and will not recognize some of the newer stuff, even where supported by 2020 NEC code (such as rapid shutdown functions).


I don't know if this helps, but I have 320A service. I split it into 2 x 200A service panels. Adding solar to one of those panels (with the appropriate breaker, not the main) would be allowed around here. My meter box has dual lugs, which is how I split it between the panels.

The way you're suggesting doing it, I'm not hearing about over-current protection, you'd need to add a over-current device on the AC side before tapping any main... (as shown above)

 

[reader2580]

I had to look up what this was.. I think you're describing LINE side tap (upstream of your breakers), correct?

The first question I'd have - is who is inspecting it? POCs can (and do) make up their own rules to some degree and many have a choice in deciding to allow various configurations. What I'm reading is that the requirements here will vary between jurisdiction based on POC... So, who is inspecting? My POC is vary narrow with solar and will not recognize some of the newer stuff, even where supported by 2020 NEC code (such as rapid shutdown functions).


I don't know if this helps, but I have 320A service. I split it into 2 x 200A service panels. Adding solar to one of those panels (with the appropriate breaker, not the main) would be allowed around here. My meter box has dual lugs, which is how I split it between the panels.

The way you're suggesting doing it, I'm not hearing about over-current protection, you'd need to add a over-current device on the AC side before tapping any main... (as shown above)

Yes, this is what I have. Inspection done by local electrical inspector. Power company is fine with it.

I already have a load side tap for my solar, but I want to increase the wire size to my garage which is where the solar is. I can’t put a breaker in my main load center since a 70 amp breaker is too large for the combination of main breaker size and bus rating.

There is a main breaker in the garage load center.

 

[reader2580]

In doing more research I found that the 2014 NEC applies the 120% rule only to The sub panel if the solar feeds into the sub panel. The main load center doesn’t need the 120% rule applied.

This means I don’t need to do a load side tap. It doesn’t mean I can’t do a load side tap.

 

[Git]

They applied the 120% rule to my main panel and derated it

 

[tyme2par4]

If you want to replace your meter base then yes, get one with dual lugs (or capable of having dual lugs installed). That is the easiest route.

You could put a disconnect between the meter and your main breaker. Again, look for a disconnect with dual lugs so you can eliminate the junction box. The caveat here is you would need to now run a 4 wire service from both panels to the disconnect as opposed to a 3 wire service. And your ground rods would be connected to the main disconnect.

 

[reader2580]

If you want to replace your meter base then yes, get one with dual lugs (or capable of having dual lugs installed). That is the easiest route.

You could put a disconnect between the meter and your main breaker. Again, look for a disconnect with dual lugs so you can eliminate the junction box. The caveat here is you would need to now run a 4 wire service from both panels to the disconnect as opposed to a 3 wire service. And your ground rods would be connected to the main disconnect.

I would like to install a disconnect to get ahead of the 2020 NEC (I am worried that changes I am making next year could trigger the disconnect requirement.), but I have no idea where to get a 200 amp disconnect with double lugs. Home Depot and Lowes both sell a couple of 200 amp outdoor disconnects, but they only have single lugs.

If I skip the disconnect the Milbank meter base I plan to use has a provision for adding a second set of lugs.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

There is a lot of debate on what is the code compliant way to do a load side solar tap. I currently have a junction box below my meter base with a number of Polaris connectors in it for my solar tap. It was passed by the inspector.

What the tap does is feed the load center in my detached garage and then the solar is fed by a breaker off of that panel.

I had to look up what this was.. I think you're describing LINE side tap (upstream of your breakers), correct?

Yes, this is what I have. Inspection done by local electrical inspector. Power company is fine with it.

I already have a load side tap for my solar, but I want to increase the wire size to my garage which is where the solar is. I can’t put a breaker in my main load center since a 70 amp breaker is too large for the combination of main breaker size and bus rating.

There is a main breaker in the garage load center.[/QUOTE]

HOLD UP!

What you describe in your first post is NOT the same as the diagram.

you said the solar is fed by a breaker in the panel in the garage.

The diagram dcg3981 posted has the solar feeding into the load side of the meter BEFORE any breakers.

What you have and what the diagram shows are 2 entirely different setups....

I want to upgrade the feed to the garage which requires larger wire. I can't get larger wire into the junction box as it is packed tight. Is it code compliant to buy a new Milbank 200 amp meter base and use the special lugs Milbank sells to add a tap? This means the feed to the garage can only be de-energized by pulling the meter.

You need to check with your AHJ. Many have restrictions on the max length of unfused service entrance wire. The NEC, however, does not....

Is it allowed to put a breaker ahead of the tap at the service entrance? I am looking at putting in a meter main to get ahead of the 2020 code. I don't want future work after the 2020 code goes into effect later this year to trigger the emergency disconnect requirement. Some 320/400 amp meter mains even have two main breakers, but would I be allowed to use one main breaker for the solar/garage feed? (Would use 320/400 amp base for 200 amp service as allowed by utility.)

If you put in a meter main, then you would need to change out the current service entrance wire from 3 to 4-wire.

this also means that the main service panel in your garage (what you're calling a load center) would now be a subpanel. This means the neutral bar needs to be isolated (might be hard to do depending on make and vintage of panel), a ground bar(s) need to be added, ground wires moved off the neutral bar and over to new ground bar(s) and the GEC along with any bond wires to plumbing, would need to be removed and extended to the meter main.