What do I need to hook up my water?

[onthefence777]

Water company just installed my water meter at my North Arkansas property recently. They left a 3/4" Schedule 80 male threaded pipe off the end of it.

I just need a single spigot right now to hook my RV up to.

I bought a galvanized threaded riser pipe, but I have since heard that galvanized won't last long with the high water table I have at my property. Also, the galvanized pipe doesn't seem to thread into the threaded Sch 80 elbow that I was going to use.

Appreciate any guidance or advice you guys can give me!

 

[nadogail]

I need to put eyes on the problem before I will commit to a suggestion. Can you send pictures?

 

[rkevins]

you could burry a plastic meter box, use a coupler with a piece of pipe attached to a 3/4" ball valve with a garden hose adaptor so when you un hook it can all be closed up in the box

 

[Marctrees]

What will be your ballpark distance from meter to furthest ultimate usage point ?

Marc

 

[onthefence777]

What will be your ballpark distance from meter to furthest ultimate usage point ?

Marc

My RV water line will have plenty of room to reach straight to the meter.

I just need a spigot installed off of a the stub the water company left right now so I can move onto the property ASAP.

Would a schedule 80 PVC pipe riser strapped to a 4x4 suffice?

I'm sure I will alter/add on later, I just need to move in ASAP right now.

 

[twistedstang]

The schedule doesnt play into thread size. A 3/4" NPT will work regardless of material. You can use plastic, copper, brass, etc. Be careful with brass because not all of it is rated for domestic water and may contain a little lead. Also dont use copper and steel right up against each other because electrolysis will occur and cause them to oxidize. What material is the 3/4" Male NPT they left you?

 

[twistedstang]

If the galvanized 3/4" pipe you bought doesnt fit, it's because someone screwed up threading it. Rule of thumb is you should be able to get three revolutions by hand. 2.5 is acceptable. Most pipe dies are adjustable and sometimes the person threading it doesnt really care. Always check the piece with a 90* fitting in the store. Both ends.

 

[Marctrees]

I just wanted to make sure you up sized the pipe if running much farther than 100' or so.

We ran the water line from a city meter 700 feet to a new home, we ran 2" even though AFAIR it was also a "3/4'" meter.

Marc

 

[samss]

PVC strapped to a 4x4 would work temporarily. I would advise installing a pressure regulator too.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd consider plumbing in a "frost-free" hydrant to temp service. Put a wye on it with one leg to the RV and the other can be used right at the hydrant.

Is your new meter buried ?

 

[59 wagon man]

you should also put some kind of backflow preventer

 

[onthefence777]

I'd consider plumbing in a "frost-free" hydrant to temp service. Put a wye on it with one leg to the RV and the other can be used right at the hydrant.

Is your new meter buried ?

The water company installed a box over the meter, yes.

I do have a pressure regulator I use on my RV at the inlet, that should be fine, right?

I was looking at the frost free hydrants but daaaaang they are expensive. I'm in a bad way when it comes to money...

That ***** if the threads are wrong on the galvanized. I will double check, but I'm pretty sure I tested the hose bib and it threaded fine on the same side that the Sch 80 elbow wouldn't thread into.

 

[dcg9381]

Not sure what you're up to exactly, but I have a 2" water pipe. I put in a ball valve in a box. Connect standard NPT fittings and prosper... For RV above ground, I'd absolutely use galv. Schedule 80 will work in a pinch, as will schedule 40, but PVC gets ugly with UV. Our main is at 70psi - regulating it at the RV is fine.

As others have mentioned, if your distance from main to the spigot is a ways, you may need to upsize the pipe...

 

[The Cobbler]

is that fitting they left on the end by chance a garden hose fitting?

 

[onthefence777]

Not sure what you're up to exactly, but I have a 2" water pipe. I put in a ball valve in a box. Connect standard NPT fittings and prosper... For RV above ground, I'd absolutely use galv. Schedule 80 will work in a pinch, as will schedule 40, but PVC gets ugly with UV. Our main is at 70psi - regulating it at the RV is fine.

As others have mentioned, if your distance from main to the spigot is a ways, you may need to upsize the pipe...

I will eventually need a much bigger pipe, my property is an acreage and I plan to grow a lot of crops. I just need a temporary hookup for my trailer so I can move there, the property is over 2 hours away from where I am currently living so it's hard to get much done having to drive so far to get there.

 

[rkevins]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-3-4-in-Threaded-Male-Hose-x-FIP-Adapter-Fitting/1000504869

this would be a cheep alternative if you can turn off the meter, just screw it on the water meter and attach your hose, if you want you could add a ball valve

 

[MJO]

my rv water line will have plenty of room to reach straight to the meter.

I just need a spigot installed off of a the stub the water company left right now so i can move onto the property asap.

Would a schedule 80 pvc pipe riser strapped to a 4x4 suffice?

I'm sure i will alter/add on later, i just need to move in asap right now.

cpvc

 

[Marctrees]

onthe fence - I would use absolutely all galv steel fittings w a brass body 90 degree ball valve.

No PVC, and definately NO PVC valve.

The above gives maximal longevity including physical damage resistance.

Very simple job.

Enjoy your experience .... BTDT in an RV developing a property to a home... awesome journey to enjoy.

In TX, we setup an outdoor shower outside the RV on a shipping pallet w frame to hold black poly curtain... full flow shower no heater straight off the meter..., VERY pleasant and free feeling to use it even down to like 50 degrees in winter.

LOVED it.... NEVER felt cleaner.

Marc

 

[onthefence777]

onthe fence - I would use absolutely all galv steel fittings w a brass body 90 degree ball valve.

No PVC, and definately NO PVC valve.

The above gives maximal longevity including physical damage resistance.

Very simple job.

Enjoy your experience .... BTDT in an RV developing a property to a home... awesome journey to enjoy.

In TX, we setup an outdoor shower outside the RV on a shipping pallet w frame to hold black poly curtain... full flow shower no heater straight off the meter..., VERY pleasant and free feeling to use it even down to like 50 degrees in winter.

LOVED it.... NEVER felt cleaner.

Marc

I am also a fan of brass fittings so I am thinking I will install another access box and shutoff valve at least, and the earlier backflow preventer valve that was recommended if I can afford one.

Unfortunately, my outside shower on my trailer s on the wrong side
I need to research and find out if I can add longer hoses onto the supplied fittings

 

[Marctrees]

onthe fence - Just y wye at the meter output for a garden hose to feed outdoor shower,

Nothing to "research". Forget about NOTHING to do w the RV.

SOOOO simple you are WAYYYY overthinking complicating this.

Marc

 

[onthefence777]

onthe fence - Just y wye at the meter output for a garden hose to feed outdoor shower,

Nothing to "research". Forget about NOTHING to do w the RV.

SOOOO simple you are WAYYYY overthinking complicating this.

Marc

Well I meant so that I could have hot water showers outside. Arkansas weather is the most amazing thing I've ever seen, but after doing some work while it was hot and humid out, even the lukewarm water I poured over my head was a shock. I'd like to have temp control to keep me from both overheating and cooling down too fast

 

[Marctrees]

well , IF you need temperated water, you will need to figure it out,

We had straight from the meter, and found it wayyyyy more than adequate.

Marc

 

[onthefence777]

well , IF you need temperated water, you will need to figure it out,

We had straight from the meter, and found it wayyyyy more than adequate.

Marc

Yeah that will be something to figure out after I move to the property. It's deep summer so I think I will just ghetto rig up a sch 80 riser so I can move up there. I hate having to do things over but it will be much easier while I am already living thete

 

[dcg9381]

I've done what you're doing twice (developed acreage property while living in an RV). It's pretty easy to make things RV compatible. Personally, as you get snow in Arkansas, I'd do a box in the ground for the water connection - less likely to freeze in the winter.

In the winter the pre-heat of water will become an issue for you unless you (especially if you have a spouse) - there are some pretty good freestanding pre-heat solutions that use propane tanks now.

Our shop uses a 100 lb propane tank - it's great for extending RV propane tanks and it's reasonably portable.

For temporary power / RV power, look into a Siemens Talon box (about $150)

 

[onthefence777]

I've done what you're doing twice (developed acreage property while living in an RV). It's pretty easy to make things RV compatible. Personally, as you get snow in Arkansas, I'd do a box in the ground for the water connection - less likely to freeze in the winter.

In the winter the pre-heat of water will become an issue for you unless you (especially if you have a spouse) - there are some pretty good freestanding pre-heat solutions that use propane tanks now.

Our shop uses a 100 lb propane tank - it's great for extending RV propane tanks and it's reasonably portable.

For temporary power / RV power, look into a Siemens Talon box (about $150)

Yes unfortunately my RV water heater only works off propane, electric heating element is dead. I will probably end up renting/leasing one of those big propane tanks for heat come this winter.

As far as power, the meter box the power company required and Installed for me already has 4 breaker spaces on it, I will be hooking an RV outlet up to it here in a couple of days probably.

Good idea on just connecting the water in a box underground, I think I might do that

 

[dcg9381]

For about $120, you can get a 100lb propane tank (Costco / Home Depot). They refill here for $70 @ $2.59/gallon currently. It's not "easy" to move by yourself, but does the job and will connect directly to most RVs.. I strap mine to the back of a 8x10 trailer with a ramp to refill it.

The propane places here will install a 250-2000 gallon propane tanks, starting at about $1200 with regulators, but not sure they'll setup for RVs. Other options are available where you "rent" the tank if you commit to a level of service that is probably unnecessary with an RV... I say go for it if you're going to eventually use it for a residence, but otherwise might be overkill.