ODIS
Well-known member
Looks great! Rattle can or HVLP?
AND
Thank you for:
All the best!
AND
Thank you for:
All the best!
Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)
- Thread starter shopnut
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Thanks. Rattle can on this project. I just acquired a hand-me-down HVLP system so I dying to try it on something now. I will now need to find a suitable match for the yellow enamel color in a can.Looks great! Rattle can or HVLP?
AND
Thank you for:
All the best!
I used to believe the pictures merely supported the story and didn't like having the text sort of buried and lost in amongst the pictures. But with as many pictures as I take these days while working on project, the images ARE the story. I've also discovered an insertion method that only adds about 30 seconds to the whole posting process, so that helps too. I think most people just zip through and look at pictures anyway, unless something peaks their interest.
A NEW FACELIFT FOR THE OLD MANLIFT… (Part 7 of 13)
The basket is back on!
I mentioned magnetic sheet being used to cover up the rusty oil-covered mast sections and here they are with the final wider strips painted in silver and stuck to the vertical faces. Now that the basket is back on, you might be able to see why I painted the rear bracketry on the basket black… to serve as a separation between the silver mast and yellow basket. If you could see the yellow cover panel on the back of the mast, the symmetry would be even more noticeable.
The narrower sample strips that were removed on the vertical members were recycled and cut down to work on the cross-members. You don’t see them until the basket is lifted, but they were just going to waste, otherwise. 10 minutes of time helped hide some more tan.
I did the same quick trick on the upper cross-members.
This is a shot of some updates made to the basket. I found some push-in caps that fit snuggly in the 6 open tube ends. The basket control box is mounted and now has a black color. And the door latch knob also has some fresh black paint (barely visible on the left)
The basket is back on!
I mentioned magnetic sheet being used to cover up the rusty oil-covered mast sections and here they are with the final wider strips painted in silver and stuck to the vertical faces. Now that the basket is back on, you might be able to see why I painted the rear bracketry on the basket black… to serve as a separation between the silver mast and yellow basket. If you could see the yellow cover panel on the back of the mast, the symmetry would be even more noticeable.
The narrower sample strips that were removed on the vertical members were recycled and cut down to work on the cross-members. You don’t see them until the basket is lifted, but they were just going to waste, otherwise. 10 minutes of time helped hide some more tan.
I did the same quick trick on the upper cross-members.
This is a shot of some updates made to the basket. I found some push-in caps that fit snuggly in the 6 open tube ends. The basket control box is mounted and now has a black color. And the door latch knob also has some fresh black paint (barely visible on the left)
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Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Mark, like all your projects, the lift looks great. I'm glad you didn't go for a sandblast and powdercoat refurb because the first chip would make you crazy.
ODIS
Well-known member
Video of you in the lift taking you to new heights?
shortykorte
Well-known member
Re: The ASYLUM - Turning a Crazy Vision into a Lakefront Gearhead Getaway: Year 6
Night and day difference. Good job.
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Night and day difference. Good job.
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
JCQuick
Well-known member
Well I see you fixed those spots I mentioned lol looks great
Thread reply 3848 (before data restore)
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Knowing the forum has had server issues, lost thread replies, and lost attachments... I'm going to give Ryan a little time to see if he can retrieve the data before I repost any old entries back into this thread. If someone hears the data is lost forever, please let me know and I will repost things right away.
This is really no big deal for me... I have a MS-Word document where I prepare my stories before pasting them into this forum. It might take me maybe 20 minutes to repost the entries. Although I didn't lose any data myself, what I stand to lose is reader's comments and my responses to them, and that would be unfortunate because that is part of the fun as well, here on the Garage Journal.
Good luck with restoring the forum data Ryan!!
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EDIT: I saw a message from Ryan indicating that it there is some hope, but he thinks the data is gone. So I will go ahead and re-post.
************************************************
Knowing the forum has had server issues, lost thread replies, and lost attachments... I'm going to give Ryan a little time to see if he can retrieve the data before I repost any old entries back into this thread. If someone hears the data is lost forever, please let me know and I will repost things right away.
This is really no big deal for me... I have a MS-Word document where I prepare my stories before pasting them into this forum. It might take me maybe 20 minutes to repost the entries. Although I didn't lose any data myself, what I stand to lose is reader's comments and my responses to them, and that would be unfortunate because that is part of the fun as well, here on the Garage Journal.
Good luck with restoring the forum data Ryan!!
********************************************************
EDIT: I saw a message from Ryan indicating that it there is some hope, but he thinks the data is gone. So I will go ahead and re-post.
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A NEW FACELIFT FOR THE OLD MANLIFT… (Part 8 of 13)
Outrigger assemblies were next on the list to get this man lift functional again. Here are all the painted parts.
Jack bearings and tubes were lubricated and all four outriggers were re-assembled.
The outriggers have latches on the frame that hold them in the stored or deployed position. I have purposely NOT lubricated these in the past in anticipation of the best paint adhesion during a re-paint “someday”. Well, “someday” finally came and these work so much better now with a little grease.
Here are the outriggers installed. I think the silver color works possibly better than yellow would have.
Outrigger assemblies were next on the list to get this man lift functional again. Here are all the painted parts.
Jack bearings and tubes were lubricated and all four outriggers were re-assembled.
The outriggers have latches on the frame that hold them in the stored or deployed position. I have purposely NOT lubricated these in the past in anticipation of the best paint adhesion during a re-paint “someday”. Well, “someday” finally came and these work so much better now with a little grease.
Here are the outriggers installed. I think the silver color works possibly better than yellow would have.
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A NEW FACELIFT FOR THE OLD MANLIFT… (Part 9 of 13)
A cover panel to protect the basket occupant from the mast lift chains was missing since I bought the manlift and it was time to remedy that. I never worried about the safety aspect (and as an engineer, I sort of like seeing the things moving in there anyway), but I never liked the “unfinished” look. And now with a new paint job, this area was going to stand out like a sore thumb.
My cheap solution was some cheap baking sheets for $8 each. The original plan had one being used in the center and the second one cut in half and used on each side (there is an offset required to get around the chain sheaves. The center cover is already trimmed in this picture. I used my electric shears (shown), along with a hand shears, to trim the pan.
Forum member shortykorte reminded me of this method of using transfer punches to mark my clearance holes in the cover (thanks buddy!). I happen to have some ¼-20 weld studs on hand that worked perfectly as transfer punches, so I did not have to make any.
The cheap pan was pretty thin, so it was easy to make an impression in it on the points of the make-shift transfer punches. I circled the little indentations (out-dentations?).
Here is the pan with holes drilled, overlaid onto the punches.
And finally with fasteners hold it in place.
With the center cover in place, I changed my mind on how to do the side covers. The second pan would get used in the kitchen where it belongs and I found some scraps of white vinyl from the ASYLUM ceiling job that worked nicely. Here you can see them trimmed and attached to the center cover section.
It was starting to look pretty good, but I still wanted something on top to keep dust and debris from dropping in the top on the freshly oiled chains.
A cover panel to protect the basket occupant from the mast lift chains was missing since I bought the manlift and it was time to remedy that. I never worried about the safety aspect (and as an engineer, I sort of like seeing the things moving in there anyway), but I never liked the “unfinished” look. And now with a new paint job, this area was going to stand out like a sore thumb.
My cheap solution was some cheap baking sheets for $8 each. The original plan had one being used in the center and the second one cut in half and used on each side (there is an offset required to get around the chain sheaves. The center cover is already trimmed in this picture. I used my electric shears (shown), along with a hand shears, to trim the pan.
Forum member shortykorte reminded me of this method of using transfer punches to mark my clearance holes in the cover (thanks buddy!). I happen to have some ¼-20 weld studs on hand that worked perfectly as transfer punches, so I did not have to make any.
The cheap pan was pretty thin, so it was easy to make an impression in it on the points of the make-shift transfer punches. I circled the little indentations (out-dentations?).
Here is the pan with holes drilled, overlaid onto the punches.
And finally with fasteners hold it in place.
With the center cover in place, I changed my mind on how to do the side covers. The second pan would get used in the kitchen where it belongs and I found some scraps of white vinyl from the ASYLUM ceiling job that worked nicely. Here you can see them trimmed and attached to the center cover section.
It was starting to look pretty good, but I still wanted something on top to keep dust and debris from dropping in the top on the freshly oiled chains.
Attachments
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A NEW FACELIFT FOR THE OLD MANLIFT… (Part 10 of 13)
For covering the top of the mast to keep dust and debris from dropping in on the freshly oiled chains, I used some more white vinyl scraps I had on hand from a prior job. Those scraps have proven valuable for all sorts of projects, btw.
Here are some shots of the top cover addition
To make it look nice, it received a fresh coat of black paint designed to adhere to plastic.
Here is it, mounted on the manlift with those 4 screws I showed you earlier.
Since it is attached the last mast section, it goes up with it and creates an awning of sorts even when up. I’ve been known drop things from the basket occasionally, so that awning might just keep something from falling in the “works”. It bothers me that the underside is still white, so I might go back and shoot it with some black paint.
This was one of those jobs that seemed simple before starting, but ended up being fairly time consuming. As you can see, there were quite a few steps in this whole process, but luckily, the cover resulted in my satisfaction.
For covering the top of the mast to keep dust and debris from dropping in on the freshly oiled chains, I used some more white vinyl scraps I had on hand from a prior job. Those scraps have proven valuable for all sorts of projects, btw.
Here are some shots of the top cover addition
To make it look nice, it received a fresh coat of black paint designed to adhere to plastic.
Here is it, mounted on the manlift with those 4 screws I showed you earlier.
Since it is attached the last mast section, it goes up with it and creates an awning of sorts even when up. I’ve been known drop things from the basket occasionally, so that awning might just keep something from falling in the “works”. It bothers me that the underside is still white, so I might go back and shoot it with some black paint.
This was one of those jobs that seemed simple before starting, but ended up being fairly time consuming. As you can see, there were quite a few steps in this whole process, but luckily, the cover resulted in my satisfaction.
Attachments
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A NEW FACELIFT FOR THE OLD MANLIFT… (Part 11 of 13)
During this refurb project, I wanted to finally clean up the electrical system. In its prior life, a previous owner had removed the on-board battery charger. While doing so, they simply cut the wires (ugg!). This in turn disabled the 110V outlet located in the basket. To be honest, I have never really had a need for 110V in the basket because I normally use cordless tools, but I hate when integrated features are non-functional, you know?
Here is the schematic for my particular battery-powered manlift version.
Pictured below is the way the ground controls looked since I bought it.
There was a key switch there which didn’t show up in the schematic (maybe an option?) and for which I didn’t have a key, so it is being removed. With the RUN/CHARGE switch in the CHARGE position, the UP/DOWN switch is disabled, and I consider this enough security.
What I wished the unit had was an Emergency Stop (E-stop) switch that cuts out all power from the battery, so I will be considering that as a safety upgrade someday. Why an E-stop? Well, any number of things can happen such as a stuck solenoid valve, that would keep raising the basket even when not demanded by the operator via the switch. That alone could be disastrous inside the shop, since the lift can raise higher than the ceiling. The best place for an E-stop would be in the basket somewhere, but that get’s complicated from a wiring standpoint, requiring relays or solenoids and such. I’ll ponder on this in the future and also look to the contemporary versions of this lift for design clues because they have integrated E-stops . In the meantime, I will rely on the hydraulic relief valve to possibly protect me from a “run-away” condition upon lifting.
In place of the key switch, I plan to add a 12V cigarette socket. This will primarily be used to plug in a voltmeter (essentially a fuel gauge for my deep cycle battery). A 12V power source in the shop can prove handy at times when I want to test automotive parts and accessories outside the vehicle.
The empty hole to the right I believe was where the power cord for charger and basket 110V power. I will be adding a short power cord back in here. I don’t need a long cord because I simply pull down one of the cord reels to plug into the manlift when recharging is needed.
Here is the pump/battery/charger compartment. Ground control box is in red on the right.
Here is the 110V outlet in the basket, sporting its new black box paint job and gray outlet to spruce it up a bit.
The meter on the battery charger already peeks out an existing window in the enclusure. It always has looked a little unfinished to me, but I don’t intend to change it right now.
It was time to clean up this rat’s nest a little bit. The goal was to get functionality and safety back, and not necessarily aesthetics inside this enclosure.
Here are the parts I’m adding for the 12V outlet. I had the battery lead with fuse is laying around from a Battery Tender purchase. I made a simple little 6” adapter cord to enter the box and to go from the SAE 2-pin connector to some female spades connecting to the back of the 12V socket. The cigarette lighter socket and 12V voltmeter are also shown on the far right.
Enlarging the hole to accommodate the larger 12V socket is accomplished easily with a Unibit stepped drill bit.
During this refurb project, I wanted to finally clean up the electrical system. In its prior life, a previous owner had removed the on-board battery charger. While doing so, they simply cut the wires (ugg!). This in turn disabled the 110V outlet located in the basket. To be honest, I have never really had a need for 110V in the basket because I normally use cordless tools, but I hate when integrated features are non-functional, you know?
Here is the schematic for my particular battery-powered manlift version.
Pictured below is the way the ground controls looked since I bought it.
There was a key switch there which didn’t show up in the schematic (maybe an option?) and for which I didn’t have a key, so it is being removed. With the RUN/CHARGE switch in the CHARGE position, the UP/DOWN switch is disabled, and I consider this enough security.
What I wished the unit had was an Emergency Stop (E-stop) switch that cuts out all power from the battery, so I will be considering that as a safety upgrade someday. Why an E-stop? Well, any number of things can happen such as a stuck solenoid valve, that would keep raising the basket even when not demanded by the operator via the switch. That alone could be disastrous inside the shop, since the lift can raise higher than the ceiling. The best place for an E-stop would be in the basket somewhere, but that get’s complicated from a wiring standpoint, requiring relays or solenoids and such. I’ll ponder on this in the future and also look to the contemporary versions of this lift for design clues because they have integrated E-stops . In the meantime, I will rely on the hydraulic relief valve to possibly protect me from a “run-away” condition upon lifting.
In place of the key switch, I plan to add a 12V cigarette socket. This will primarily be used to plug in a voltmeter (essentially a fuel gauge for my deep cycle battery). A 12V power source in the shop can prove handy at times when I want to test automotive parts and accessories outside the vehicle.
The empty hole to the right I believe was where the power cord for charger and basket 110V power. I will be adding a short power cord back in here. I don’t need a long cord because I simply pull down one of the cord reels to plug into the manlift when recharging is needed.
Here is the pump/battery/charger compartment. Ground control box is in red on the right.
Here is the 110V outlet in the basket, sporting its new black box paint job and gray outlet to spruce it up a bit.
The meter on the battery charger already peeks out an existing window in the enclusure. It always has looked a little unfinished to me, but I don’t intend to change it right now.
It was time to clean up this rat’s nest a little bit. The goal was to get functionality and safety back, and not necessarily aesthetics inside this enclosure.
Here are the parts I’m adding for the 12V outlet. I had the battery lead with fuse is laying around from a Battery Tender purchase. I made a simple little 6” adapter cord to enter the box and to go from the SAE 2-pin connector to some female spades connecting to the back of the 12V socket. The cigarette lighter socket and 12V voltmeter are also shown on the far right.
Enlarging the hole to accommodate the larger 12V socket is accomplished easily with a Unibit stepped drill bit.
Attachments
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A NEW FACELIFT FOR THE OLD MANLIFT… (Part 12 of 13)
Here’s a shot of the ground controls all finished up.
The plug-in voltmeter fits nicely there and I can push it in and be getting a reading anytime I’m running or charging the lift.
While the lift is in storage, I can simple pull the voltmeter out about a 1/4" to break connect and keep it from slowly draining the battery.
A 12V socket can be used for a number of things, such as this USB charger. And with hurricane season upon us in Florida, having backup power for small items could prove valuable. I have a USB charger inserted in the picture.
Here’s a view inside the compartment. You can see the cord attaching to the battery screw terminals. If I have an accessory that has an SAE 2-pin connector, I can also unplug the one here to test or power it. Lots of versatility!
In the previous pictures, you might have notices some new switch labels. This is what I used to make them. Labels were affixed to magnetic sheet and they in turn were stuck to the metal switch guards.
The control box in the basket also got some labels. Also note the cleaned up capacity label above the box.
Here’s a shot of the ground controls all finished up.
The plug-in voltmeter fits nicely there and I can push it in and be getting a reading anytime I’m running or charging the lift.
While the lift is in storage, I can simple pull the voltmeter out about a 1/4" to break connect and keep it from slowly draining the battery.
A 12V socket can be used for a number of things, such as this USB charger. And with hurricane season upon us in Florida, having backup power for small items could prove valuable. I have a USB charger inserted in the picture.
Here’s a view inside the compartment. You can see the cord attaching to the battery screw terminals. If I have an accessory that has an SAE 2-pin connector, I can also unplug the one here to test or power it. Lots of versatility!
In the previous pictures, you might have notices some new switch labels. This is what I used to make them. Labels were affixed to magnetic sheet and they in turn were stuck to the metal switch guards.
The control box in the basket also got some labels. Also note the cleaned up capacity label above the box.
Attachments
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A NEW FACELIFT FOR THE OLD MANLIFT… (Part 13 of 13)
There was one last detail I haven’t covered and that is the power cord. When purchased secondhand, it had already been removed for whatever reason. So I bought a nice heavy cord to exit next to the ground switches. Since it is 10 feet long, I needed to do something with the slack when not plugged in. I had always planned to do a cord reel for a neat and tidy installation, but gave up on that idea with time running short and needing to wrap this project up. I used some magnetic hooks to drape the cord from and keep it from swinging around when stored. So far that seems to be working nicely.
THE MANLIFT IS FINISHED!!!
It is now TRULY an integral part of The ASYLUM. I’ll wrap up the project with some glamour shots.
Just so you don't forget what condition this thing was in when I started:
Here are a couple shots with the basket elevated:
My personal favorite:
As I say goodbye to this project, I’ll store it away until it’s needed again (which will probably be next week already!). As a matter of chance, it fits under my HD-9 auto lift by fractions of an inch, but that’s all that’s needed and I consider it a real bonus.
Thanks for following along!
There was one last detail I haven’t covered and that is the power cord. When purchased secondhand, it had already been removed for whatever reason. So I bought a nice heavy cord to exit next to the ground switches. Since it is 10 feet long, I needed to do something with the slack when not plugged in. I had always planned to do a cord reel for a neat and tidy installation, but gave up on that idea with time running short and needing to wrap this project up. I used some magnetic hooks to drape the cord from and keep it from swinging around when stored. So far that seems to be working nicely.
THE MANLIFT IS FINISHED!!!
It is now TRULY an integral part of The ASYLUM. I’ll wrap up the project with some glamour shots.
Just so you don't forget what condition this thing was in when I started:
Here are a couple shots with the basket elevated:
My personal favorite:
As I say goodbye to this project, I’ll store it away until it’s needed again (which will probably be next week already!). As a matter of chance, it fits under my HD-9 auto lift by fractions of an inch, but that’s all that’s needed and I consider it a real bonus.
Thanks for following along!
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shortykorte
Well-known member
Re: The ASYLUM - Turning a Crazy Vision into a Lakefront Gearhead Getaway: Year 6
Great job on the lift. Such a transformation. I’m glad you shared the schematic. I want to covert mine from a 3 motherboards, 1500 limit switches, super OSHA compliant system to a good old KIS system. For the basket switch/outlet box, is that the original box? The 12v socket with changeable accessories is a great idea especially the volt meter. Also setting it is up for a 12v power supply, genius. What kind of battery charger does it have?
I have a couple of need to do projects before I touch Christine but if the she was useable, it sure would be a huge benefit in my shop. I’m where if I had big stuff upstairs, I could work on Christine but can’t get stuff upstairs without Christine. [emoji22]
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Great job on the lift. Such a transformation. I’m glad you shared the schematic. I want to covert mine from a 3 motherboards, 1500 limit switches, super OSHA compliant system to a good old KIS system. For the basket switch/outlet box, is that the original box? The 12v socket with changeable accessories is a great idea especially the volt meter. Also setting it is up for a 12v power supply, genius. What kind of battery charger does it have?
I have a couple of need to do projects before I touch Christine but if the she was useable, it sure would be a huge benefit in my shop. I’m where if I had big stuff upstairs, I could work on Christine but can’t get stuff upstairs without Christine. [emoji22]
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
VERY nicely and neatly done restoration.
cbacres
Well-known member
Nice clean up job there. I also hate when things are butchered.
So... you got me to wondering..... being in a runaway lift that smashes and traps you into the ceiling verses a battery falling out and pinning one to the shop floor!
It’s a valid point though, switch/relays/valves stick. Maybe a simple main relay switch? They have shunt breakers for AC electric panels, it’d be a mechanical switch with a smaller current control circuit. All gas stations are equipped with these for gas dispenser and pump **** offs.
So... you got me to wondering..... being in a runaway lift that smashes and traps you into the ceiling verses a battery falling out and pinning one to the shop floor!
It’s a valid point though, switch/relays/valves stick. Maybe a simple main relay switch? They have shunt breakers for AC electric panels, it’d be a mechanical switch with a smaller current control circuit. All gas stations are equipped with these for gas dispenser and pump **** offs.
shortykorte
Well-known member
Re: The ASYLUM - Turning a Crazy Vision into a Lakefront Gearhead Getaway: Year 6
A simple solution which only requires a string shorter then floor to ceiling distance and a hand grenade.
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
A simple solution which only requires a string shorter then floor to ceiling distance and a hand grenade.
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Re: The ASYLUM - Turning a Crazy Vision into a Lakefront Gearhead Getaway: Year 6
Any effort to get the lift back working again will be time well spent, IMHO. Otherwise, that thing is just taking up shop space. Good luck!
Thanks man! Simple is most often best with our own equipment where we are using our brain a little bit to keep us out of trouble. And when it comes to the computer controlled stuff, you are out of luck if it doesn't have on-board diagnostics or you don't have fancy troubleshooting tools to "look inside" and see where the trouble lies.
Any effort to get the lift back working again will be time well spent, IMHO. Otherwise, that thing is just taking up shop space. Good luck!
Thanks Mike. I'm glad I made the effort. Now it is not only a valuable tool in the shop, but one I can be proud of too!VERY nicely and neatly done restoration.
Thanks Craig!Nice clean up job there. I also hate when things are butchered.
So... you got me to wondering..... being in a runaway lift that smashes and traps you into the ceiling verses a battery falling out and pinning one to the shop floor!
It’s a valid point though, switch/relays/valves stick. Maybe a simple main relay switch? They have shunt breakers for AC electric panels, it’d be a mechanical switch with a smaller current control circuit. All gas stations are equipped with these for gas dispenser and pump **** offs.
Good point... those lifts can be dangerous, up or down!
Thanks for the ideas. A battery cutout would be ideal. Another option might be what looks like a dump valve for the lift circuit in the hydraulic schematic . I haven't taken a look yet to see where it is on the the lift, but if this exists, it would "dump" the pressurized oil back to the tank as fast as the pump could produce it and stop the lifting motion. Plus it would be something on the low amp side (the control circuit), which is usually pretty easy to tap into. We shall see. I'll update you guys here if I move forward with something. I'll probably be making the modification right AFTER it happens the first time. LOL
Re: The ASYLUM - Turning a Crazy Vision into a Lakefront Gearhead Getaway: Year 6
LOL But what about my new paint!!! And the entire shop!!!A simple solution which only requires a string shorter then floor to ceiling distance and a hand grenade.
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Re: The ASYLUM - Turning a Crazy Vision into a Lakefront Gearhead Getaway: Year 6
Yes, that is the original basket outlet box. It is a custom enclosure about the size of a 2-gang box and houses both the 110VAC outlet and the Raise/Lower switch. It looks to have enough room for an Emergency Stop switch (possibly a mushroom head type in the top face?) if I ever get around to that upgrade.
Here are a few shots inside while I was doing the refurb…
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1029255&stc=1&d=1594120266
Sorry, looks like I forgot to answer this question...
Yes, that is the original basket outlet box. It is a custom enclosure about the size of a 2-gang box and houses both the 110VAC outlet and the Raise/Lower switch. It looks to have enough room for an Emergency Stop switch (possibly a mushroom head type in the top face?) if I ever get around to that upgrade.
Here are a few shots inside while I was doing the refurb…
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1029255&stc=1&d=1594120266
Attachments
THREE NEW INTEGRATED BATTERY TENDERS (CHARGERS)… (Part 1 of 2)
With stored vehicles in the shop, undoubtedly you need to deal with battery tenders or trickle chargers to maintain their batteries. While you could have one for every vehicle, I “share” them between vehicles and hit each battery for about one week out of the month to keep them topped off. Up until now, they have sat on the floor next to the vehicle being charged and that has been a nuisance with cords lying everywhere. So it was time to do something about it.
Cord and hose reels were some of the first things I equipped the shop with when I started outfitting it. And when I hid them in the side lofts, I added one extra fairlead for expansion someday. That someday is now. In the following picture, I have removed one of the vinyl panels so that you can see where the reels are located. Note the manlift is seeing its first real action… or should I say “reel” action, LOL.
I purchased 4 of these low budget Craftsman cord reels in a 50% sale for $10/each a number of years ago and they have proven perfect as the basis to create an SAE 2-Pin extension cord to work in conjunction with the Battery Tenders.
The first thing I do is cut the 110V ends from them so I’m just left with the reel. Parts on the left of this picture will be recycled someday. The SAE 2-pin connector pigtails will be spliced onto the reel.
This is an old picture of the original Battery Tender reel I made (because I forgot to take a picture of the new ones now), but it shows the finished product. I have been using the original one for over 10 years now without any charging issues on any of the batteries it was used on.
With the reels modified, I nestled one of them between two other reels up there.
There was room to mount the Battery Tender directly above the fairleads.
I added vinyl trim panel from my inventory to give it a finished look.
A cutout was added in the wall panel to complete the job.
But when I got all finished with the first Battery Tender installation, I just didn’t like how it disrupted the clean lines of that wall face. I had planned on repeating whatever I did here on the other loft across the way, so whatever I didn’t like here was soon going to be doubled.
In the end, I made an executive decision to change the Battery Tender location and the story continues…
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With stored vehicles in the shop, undoubtedly you need to deal with battery tenders or trickle chargers to maintain their batteries. While you could have one for every vehicle, I “share” them between vehicles and hit each battery for about one week out of the month to keep them topped off. Up until now, they have sat on the floor next to the vehicle being charged and that has been a nuisance with cords lying everywhere. So it was time to do something about it.
Cord and hose reels were some of the first things I equipped the shop with when I started outfitting it. And when I hid them in the side lofts, I added one extra fairlead for expansion someday. That someday is now. In the following picture, I have removed one of the vinyl panels so that you can see where the reels are located. Note the manlift is seeing its first real action… or should I say “reel” action, LOL.
I purchased 4 of these low budget Craftsman cord reels in a 50% sale for $10/each a number of years ago and they have proven perfect as the basis to create an SAE 2-Pin extension cord to work in conjunction with the Battery Tenders.
The first thing I do is cut the 110V ends from them so I’m just left with the reel. Parts on the left of this picture will be recycled someday. The SAE 2-pin connector pigtails will be spliced onto the reel.
This is an old picture of the original Battery Tender reel I made (because I forgot to take a picture of the new ones now), but it shows the finished product. I have been using the original one for over 10 years now without any charging issues on any of the batteries it was used on.
With the reels modified, I nestled one of them between two other reels up there.
There was room to mount the Battery Tender directly above the fairleads.
I added vinyl trim panel from my inventory to give it a finished look.
A cutout was added in the wall panel to complete the job.
But when I got all finished with the first Battery Tender installation, I just didn’t like how it disrupted the clean lines of that wall face. I had planned on repeating whatever I did here on the other loft across the way, so whatever I didn’t like here was soon going to be doubled.
In the end, I made an executive decision to change the Battery Tender location and the story continues…
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shortykorte
Well-known member
First off I didn’t understand the 2-pin on the reel but now seeing it all, that’s a great idea.
The green does stand out. How about using a solid piece of vinyl. Cut two round holes (or rectangle) where lights are and glue in a piece of white translucent plastic or acrylic.
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
The green does stand out. How about using a solid piece of vinyl. Cut two round holes (or rectangle) where lights are and glue in a piece of white translucent plastic or acrylic.
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
It seems the small trickle chargers/maintainers have somewhat standardized on a 2-pin SAE connection on the charger output (at least in the USA anyway). Then you have a choice on how it will connect to your battery, either with alligator clips or a more permanent ring terminal. Here are some examples of how these are kitted up when sold.
The retractable reels I have built are merely extension cords between the charger and vehicle connection.
I have already moved the chargers (which will be covered in Part 2), but your suggestion of a simple white vinyl cover is an elegant solution to hide those green charger faces and that will be considered. I do like the Delran Battery Tenders for their performance and reliability, but the latest design has very, very dim indicator lights on them. They are so dim that I need to turn off the shop lights to see them. I may consider tapping into the chargers and having auxiliary lights that are bigger/brighter and your idea of a cover panel would be a perfect place to mount these extra indicator lights. Thanks for the idea!!
I guess it’s time to take one of these chargers apart… FUN!!!
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Cool idea and great execution.
JCQuick
Well-known member
well ain't that clever
THREE NEW INTEGRATED BATTERY TENDERS (CHARGERS)… (Part 2 of 2)
Rather than have the Battery Tenders on the front face of the lofts, I chose to move them around the corner to the triangular sides of the lofts. Sure, it set me back maybe 30 minutes, but what’s a few minutes in the grand scheme of things.
It was like Déjà vu mounting the Battery Tender and cutting out the vinyl, but at least it’s easier to repeat a task, right?
Here is the matching Battery Tender and reel in the other loft.
A third one was added near my main work area on the jib crane wall.
I plan to add 2 more eventually on the far side walls so I can reach any point in the shop, but that will happen sometime in the future.
Rather than have the Battery Tenders on the front face of the lofts, I chose to move them around the corner to the triangular sides of the lofts. Sure, it set me back maybe 30 minutes, but what’s a few minutes in the grand scheme of things.
It was like Déjà vu mounting the Battery Tender and cutting out the vinyl, but at least it’s easier to repeat a task, right?
Here is the matching Battery Tender and reel in the other loft.
A third one was added near my main work area on the jib crane wall.
I plan to add 2 more eventually on the far side walls so I can reach any point in the shop, but that will happen sometime in the future.
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ODIS
Well-known member
Very nicely done, Sir!
For the folks planning their new garage space or remodeling an existing space, hope they will take your ideas and put them into action as well. Such great use of space and elimination of trip hazards are always “best” practices.
Thanks again for sharing your many talents!
For the folks planning their new garage space or remodeling an existing space, hope they will take your ideas and put them into action as well. Such great use of space and elimination of trip hazards are always “best” practices.
Thanks again for sharing your many talents!
Thanks!
Yes, SAFETY FIRST!! At work, they drill this into our heads. And it works because our safety record is world class. We even record the "near misses" now because it helps identify deficiencies. Someone tripping on a cord, but not falling would constitute a "near miss" because someone could have gotten hurt. The whole philosophy does follow me home... safety glasses, ear protection, etc., are always close at hand, and used!! Of course that fateful night when I took a tumble from the step ladder... I guess SAFETY was on a coffee break!
shortykorte
Well-known member
JCQuick
Well-known member
Shorty i need a pair of those for work.
IGO2XS
Well-known member
You have an amazing eye for detail! Looks awesome. I am sure I could find some way in my shop to use your idea!
I think all of us Floridians need a pair... wouldn't have to worry about dropping a full beer on my toes at the beach!
Thank you! As always, ideas are free here!!You have an amazing eye for detail! Looks awesome. I am sure I could find some way in my shop to use your idea!
cbacres
Well-known member
Mark, nice work, your making some of us look bad.
Great use of the reels, I’ll be cutting off the lamp holders on my reels as with all the LED battery lights, it’s nice not to be tied to cords.
Great use of the reels, I’ll be cutting off the lamp holders on my reels as with all the LED battery lights, it’s nice not to be tied to cords.
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If the shoe fits! LOL. Just kidding!! I've just been very ambitious lately, despite the the warm weather.Mark, nice work, your making some of us look bad.
Great use of the reels, I’ll be cutting off the lamp holders on my reels as with all the LED battery lights, it’s nice not to be tied to cords.
You reminded me that my existed trouble lights (on reels) hardly ever get used. They do have 110V taps in them so I mainly use them as extension cords these days. But perhaps I should just cut off the bulky lamp holders and install simple female sockets. Another project on the list!! Thanks (I think).
cbacres
Well-known member
If the shoe fits! LOL. Just kidding!! I've just been very ambitious lately, despite the the warm weather.
You reminded me that my existed trouble lights (on reels) hardly ever get used. They do have 110V taps in them so I mainly use them as extension cords these days. But perhaps I should just cut off the bulky lamp holders and install simple female sockets. Another project on the list!! Thanks (I think).
When you do that, get the cord caps that are a nylon like material, they hold up much better that the harder plastic ones. I’ll look on mine to see if there’s a name.