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Sweet dumpster score of a Reed 204 1/2

Aldochina

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Eastgreenbush NY(central eastern)
Looking to date this vintage vise I pulled from the dumpster at work. Last patent is 1914. Dont think it's in terrible shape other than bent levers and rust. Few nicks here and there, we'll see once its stripped of rust. Still have to get the main bolt loose. Havnt tried any heat yet. The one pic is a comparison of the slide from a columbian D-45. Any info would be appreciated. Pretty sweet for free, and no injuries from the dive in or out lol!
 

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Dumber than lumber

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Welcome to the forum.
Impressive first post.
When i say “You ****” please don’t be offended.
You **** (sort of means you have good fortune).
 

txlonghorn1989

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Feb 27, 2017
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Looking to date this vintage vise I pulled from the dumpster at work. Last patent is 1914. Dont think it's in terrible shape other than bent levers and rust. Few nicks here and there, we'll see once its stripped of rust. Still have to get the main bolt loose. Havnt tried any heat yet. The one pic is a comparison of the slide from a columbian D-45. Any info would be appreciated. Pretty sweet for free, and no injuries from the dive in or out lol!

I just broke down my 104-1/2 with the 1912 & 1914 patent dates on it. Manufacture date of Nov 1929 IIRC. Have you removed the collar there on the inside of the slide that rides on the main screw? It's held in place with a set screw. Once you've removed that set screw the main screw should pull out pretty easy. If there's a lot of rust in that area then you may want to try getting rid of that rust, I like an electrolysis tank, or hit it with some penetrating lubricant.

Great find by the way!!! Good luck and keep us posted.

Edit: Disregard. I see you've removed the main screw. So I'm confused as to what you're having trouble with. ???
 
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RTM

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He’s showing the swivel nut still in, so guessing that thing.

A drag link socket it your friend there, get the one that fits the slot width best. An impact wrench can make short work of it, went there after my 18” breaker bar didn’t work.
 

Bigbandguy

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Welcome to the forum.
Impressive first post.
When i say “You ****” please don’t be offended.
You **** (sort of means you have good fortune).

I have never seen suckage adjudicated on a very first post before but I definitely agree OP you **** in a major way. (again no disrespect, suckage judged here is a high compliment. )

One of you old hands should decide if this is a record. If so it should be a special award!
 

davethorik

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Or businesses, especially of the fab type; you'd think one or two of the employees would be interested?

Its usually a tax write off, or possibly excess inventory. Or a mgmt decision, google 5S practice. They want to streamline the workplace, make it more efficient, get rid of excess, and old stuff. I work for a large global company, who was an engineering firm that began purchasing other machine shops going out of biz to get us multi faceted in house manufacturing. There is a lot of excess from these acquisitions, it is in the way, and it's slowly been pruned back.

I too have found stuff in scrap at work that made the eyes pop and the jaw drop. Nice grab op.
 

thehorse13

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Welcome, and of course, you ****.

For historical reference, there have been first post suckage awards in the past but they are rare.

I'd also like to point out that in all my life of dumpster diving, I've never found a Reed 204 1/2. What kind of monster would throw that vise away?

Please keep us updated with your restoration on this beauty. Pictures are always appreciated.
 
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Aldochina

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Eastgreenbush NY(central eastern)
Well, tried some acetalene and a drag link socket, but it wont budge. May try a 2 day submersion in something before I pull out the welder and weld a giant nut on there! It spins freely now, but I still want to pull it apart for a proper clean and lube. Also anyone know how the end knobs are attached to the shaft on this handle? Thanks for all the interest. I have access to a LARGE corporations dumpster. You cant even imagine what I pull out of there in raw materials alone, as well as some real treasures! This was thrown in there by an employee from his home garage.
 

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MShaw

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I got my Parker #205 as a business decision. My father worked for Pratt & Whitney machine tool division. Originally they had a full length string of work benches each side of the assembly floor and every one had a vise. In the early 1960's they redid the floor and eliminated most of the benches. They offered the excess vises to the employees at scrap value.
 

Maui

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Well, tried some acetalene and a drag link socket, but it wont budge. May try a 2 day submersion in something before I pull out the welder and weld a giant nut on there! It spins freely now, but I still want to pull it apart for a proper clean and lube. Also anyone know how the end knobs are attached to the shaft on this handle? Thanks for all the interest. I have access to a LARGE corporations dumpster. You cant even imagine what I pull out of there in raw materials alone, as well as some real treasures! This was thrown in there by an employee from his home garage.

I had this exact same problem in freeing up the bottom bolt so the swivel base could be removed from my Reed 2C. What finally broke it free was a drag link socket attached to an air impact wrench. And at the maximum pressure setting on my compressor it barely broke free. That would be my suggestion to use here too.

Maui
 
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Aldochina

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Got the vise base soaking. The swivel stop bolt "not sure of the correct term" is unfortunately cracked up from getting beat with a hammer no doubt. Anyone e know if these handle ends are press and peened on?
 

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JBurt

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May 15, 2013
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That's an awesome dumpster find! I went through and redid my grandfathers old rock island vice. I also found an old athol on the side of the road that is waiting for restoration.

Good luck! Do you have a picture of the other end? Maybe that would help tell if they were peened on.
 
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Aldochina

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Got some work done on the vise. After some research on here, and some cleaning, I was able to date the vise at 10/1919!
 

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Aldochina

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Balls are definitely forged onto the handle. Got the main screw cleaned up and polished out. Kinda want to leave most of the patina, so I didnt go to crazy trying to sand the pits out. The handle I was able to straighten pretty good. Its pitted bad, but most likely going to re use it. Anyone ever use a 1/2 "extension as a handle replacement? Thought about it, but dont think it will match with the rest of the patina.
 

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Aldochina

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After 2 days of soaking, and another reheat and go at it with the drag link, and some other home made attempts I wound up having to weld a nut on there anyway. Put some bead inside the nut to get some heat down the bolt. With a 32 mm socket and the longest bar I got it came loose!! Have to cut the nut off, and re machine the bolt and it will be good to go.
 

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Aldochina

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Going to degrease everything good, and not sure it I'm going to evaporust the whole thing, or wire wheel and naval jelly it. I could bead blast it aswell. Figure evaporust would be easiest, and will get everywhere inside the base, but it's the only thing I dont have on hand. Not sure if I will paint it or linseed it yet.
 

driz

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How about a homemade electrolysis rig in a 5 gallon old drywall pail ? YouTube explains the simple setup and all you need is a spare 12 v battery, a box of grocery store 20 mule team borax and some wire .


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Maui

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Bead blasting is by far the best way to go if you have access to a good chamber. It cleans these vises up beautifully, doesn’t damage the cast surface, and leaves you with a clean surface that after blowing off the residual dust and a wipe down is ready for paint. That is how I cleaned up the majority of my rusty vises.
 

thehorse13

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I'd keep the original handle and since you have access to machine tools, just mill yourself a new endcap ball and weld it on there. That's what I did to my late teens Prentiss.

I'm half convinced that the heat from the welder helped your cause in removing that stuck base screw.

Outstanding work and pictures so far!
 
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Aldochina

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Thanks for the interest guys. I have another thread I started on the restoration in the general section. I'll post a link here. It will document my progression from here. Sorry for the confusion. I actually have a pretty sweet cabinet, but it has garnet in it at the moment. I thought about swapping it out, but am trying other means. Right on the money with the welding heat.
 

Packard V8

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Bead blasting is by far the best way to go if you have access to a good chamber. It cleans these vises up beautifully, doesn’t damage the cast surface, and leaves you with a clean surface that after blowing off the residual dust and a wipe down is ready for paint. That is how I cleaned up the majority of my rusty vises.
Yes, bead blasting will do the job, but it's slow and expensive for parts as sturdy as cast iron vises.
I actually have a pretty sweet cabinet, but it has garnet in it at the moment. I thought about swapping it out, but am trying other means.

You do realize careful hand guided blasting with garnet won't hurt cast iron? Working in an engine shop the cast iron heads and blocks are cleaned by blasting with steel shot.

I have run a dozen various brands of vises through it and works well with no damage to any of them.

jack vines
 
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Aldochina

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Yes, bead blasting will do the job, but it's slow and expensive for parts as sturdy as cast iron vises.


You do realize careful hand guided blasting with garnet won't hurt cast iron? Working in an engine shop the cast iron heads and blocks are cleaned by blasting with steel shot.


I have run a dozen various brands of vises through it and works well with no damage to any of them.

jack vines


I agree, if I was going to paint it, it would have already been in there, but wasnt sure how it would look with a BLO finish. There is so many casting imperfections and usage Mark's on this I dont think it would matter either way. Wanted to try the electrolysis out anyway.
 
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