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What's the latest thing in attic flooring?

DynoDave

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Finally going to try and get some sort of floor or deck down in my storage trusses so I can actually store things on them!

As usual, I want it all. Light weight, super strong, easy to work with, and CHEAP! :bounce:

Seriously though, just curious what everyone might be using.

These are storage trusses with a 2x6 bottom chord, 24" on center, and rated for 500lbs. carrying capacity each.

Watcha usin' ?
 
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KenC

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hard to beat 7/16 OSB. Just be sure to use the clips, I like 2 clips per span. Yes, it will be a little bouncy, but safe.
 

vtjon

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I used 3/4" Avantech. Not exactly cheap though.

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_Stang_

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I don't have trusses but my attic is framed with 2x6s. I ran additional 2x6s 24in on center perpendicular to the existing and standing on end. Toe nailed with 3in wood screws on both sides every 12in. With Home Depot 2ftx4ft attic floor boards (OSB T&G) on top and screwed its rock solid. Laying it out this way doesn't crush your insulation and even allows laying additional R19 on top of your existing. Also allowed me to leave romex lines laying on the existing 2x6s instead of moving them.

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matt_i

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I used 3/4" T+G plywood. Nailed. Wish it was screwed down. I stored things right away and it would be so much easier to insulate underneath the floor if I could remove some screws and pour in the cellulose loose fill. Now have to flow it in from the ends under a 12' wide center span.

The previous owner put 1/2" in the original part of the shop...so bouncy when just walking around...rather than pull it all I ended up using construction adhesive and placing another layer of 1/2".
 

YukonXL04

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3/4 ply here as well. I have 2x12 ceiling joists. And they are doubled up every 8ft so each edge lands on a whole 2x instead of half. So I did 10x16ft storage area should hold me over for a while
 

DJF3

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Do not use 7/16 osb. I did and it was super bouncy on 24" centers. My next build is 19.2 on center, and the architech spec'd 3/4 tongue and groove, screwed and glued.
 

ddawg16

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Good CDX plywood is about 10%+ stiffer than OSB. Over time, plywood is less likely to sag vs OSB.

Additionally, plywood is a little lighter than OSB.

Because your span between joists is 24", no way I'd use OSB. For plywood, I'd use 5/8" at a min...1/2" is too thin. You can't get OSB in 5/8"
 

MushCreek

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I don't remember where I got it, but my roof is sheathed in 5/8" OSB. It would plenty strong enough for reasonable attic storage. It is heavy, though, at 66 lbs. a sheet. It took me forever to hump that stuff up onto my roof. The best would be 3/4" T&G Advantech (which is even heavier).
 

mike93lx

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I would also use Advantech, probably 5/8. T&g withsl subfloor adhesive. It will be nice and solid.

About $36 a sheet around here
 

Bigblockyeti

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I'm curious as to why so many are suggesting glue it down? I know it might be a little quieter as you walk on it but how often does that happen? It adds time, cost and no appreciable strength to the structure vs. just nails or screws.

I would screw only, if you have any vent stacks plumbing or wiring below you might need to get to some day, it would be much easier to back out a few screws and lift the sheet vs. having to destroy it to get it up or hack apart the drywall ceiling below.
 

Stuart in MN

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I used 3/4" tongue and groove plywood, held down with screws and construction adhesive. I figured the adhesive would help make the floor a little stiffer.
 
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hansen1

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My trusses are 2x10 bottom and top chord on 19.2" centers.

Based on a recommendation from the truss mfg, I layed down 2x4's perpendicular to the trusses on 16" centers. On top of these, I did 3/4" T&G OSB. Everything installed using contruction adhesive and screws. Been installed for over 10 years and the floor is almost as solid as my concrete. Worked out great.
 

Bigblockyeti

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I have trusses 24" OC in my attic and the cheap *** builder put down 7/16" OSB which is like walking across a trampoline until it breaks. I replaced the pictured piece with 23/32" (actually .707") OSB for a non-lethal floor. As an added bonus there was zero insulation under this, the house was built in 2004 and an inspector actually signed off on this!
 

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steve308

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Insulate first. Run additional electrical, TV cable, cat 5. 3/4 inch plywood cut to fit the trusses, screwed down.
 

Firebrick43

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How can people in good conscience suggest 7/16 on 24” centers? I used 5/8 on my roof deck and while stable I could still feel some flex. I had a 18” scrap from each side so I built a cat walk in the attic for easy service. I didn’t care for the flex, and having enough scrap I glued and screwed another 5/8 piece down with offset seems and feel it nearly adequate.
 

Joemctag

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I like Stang’s idea; I’d just use 2x4s or 2x6s perpendicular at 16” or 19.2” so lighter own or ply works. Working around the Romex cables and having more depth to insulate and better spreading out of loads are good things:
 

ddawg16

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How can people in good conscience suggest 7/16 on 24” centers? I used 5/8 on my roof deck and while stable I could still feel some flex. I had a 18” scrap from each side so I built a cat walk in the attic for easy service. I didn’t care for the flex, and having enough scrap I glued and screwed another 5/8 piece down with offset seems and feel it nearly adequate.

A good example of why we have building codes.

5/8's...minimum....3/4" for a 24" span would be better.

Side note...

I did a 2-story addition to my house. For my second floor...2x12 on 12 OC (14' span). And on top of that, 1 1/8" T&G Plywood....glued and screwed.

I bitched to the architect about it....he said I'll be happy with the results.
He was right. My upstairs floor feels like concrete. No bounce. No noise downstairs. No regrets.
 
OP
D

DynoDave

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Thank you to everyone for replying. I appreciate the input.

Good CDX plywood is about 10%+ stiffer than OSB. Over time, plywood is less likely to sag vs OSB.

Additionally, plywood is a little lighter than OSB.

Because your span between joists is 24", no way I'd use OSB. For plywood, I'd use 5/8" at a min...1/2" is too thin. You can't get OSB in 5/8"


Good info ddawg16. Thank you. :thumbup:


I'm curious as to why so many are suggesting glue it down? I know it might be a little quieter as you walk on it but how often does that happen? It adds time, cost and no appreciable strength to the structure vs. just nails or screws.

I would screw only, if you have any vent stacks plumbing or wiring below you might need to get to some day, it would be much easier to back out a few screws and lift the sheet vs. having to destroy it to get it up or hack apart the drywall ceiling below.

I suspect gluing it down would make it a little stronger, but I was thinking that would be excessive for my application. And the ability to remove the deck later if needed seems to be of value to me.


for the latest and light, super strong they have these, but not "cheap" per your requirement. there are a few manufactures that also sell them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GX5CCHR/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I was searching the Home Despot website for info on the Advantech product, and saw those. Cool idea, but too pricey for me to do too much with. I might consider a few to use outside of the defined area for storage on the truss, and ONLY put feather weight items out there.


My trusses are 2x10 bottom and top chord on 19.2" centers.

Based on a recommendation from the truss mfg, I layed down 2x4's perpendicular to the trusses on 16" centers. On top of these, I did 3/4" T&G OSB. Everything installed using contruction adhesive and screws. Been installed for over 10 years and the floor is almost as solid as my concrete. Worked out great.

Truss manufacturer...there's an idea. :thumbup:


I have trusses 24" OC in my attic and the cheap *** builder put down 7/16" OSB which is like walking across a trampoline until it breaks. I replaced the pictured piece with 23/32" (actually .707") OSB for a non-lethal floor. As an added bonus there was zero insulation under this, the house was built in 2004 and an inspector actually signed off on this!

Hmm...I dress out at about 240 there days, plus the weight of the parts I'll be carrying. I'm not building a dance floor up there...it's not a loft. It's just an attic space maybe 4'+ high, that I can waddle through hunched over. But properly decked it will be great storage. But I don't want it to sag or flex excessively. My definition of excessively would be that board. :lol:


7/16 OSB T&G. It's in the attic, no one is gonna see it but you.

That's true. It's not a walk-able floor...a "little" bounce, some squeaks, a few knots...I couldn't care less. So I'm with you up to there.


Insulate first. Run additional electrical, TV cable, cat 5. 3/4 inch plywood cut to fit the trusses, screwed down.

This area will still be open from below. So I will certainly do all of those things before I drywall (or other alternate ceiling covering, but that's for my "What's the latest thing in CEILING covering?" thread. :lol:


Is this already built? If it is, are you are to slide a full 4x8 sheet up between the trusses ?

Sadly yes, for well over a decade now. And yes, the garage is about 2/3 scissor trusses, 1/3 storage trusses. So there's an opening at the end of the storage trusses that I can load the sheets through.


Thanks again for the input everyone. Lots of good info here. Now, less important than which one I do is that I just do one and move on without obsessing about it.
 

Marctrees

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Some guys will be cutting up ply as catwalks etc. so may forget the importance of grain direction...

So, just a reminder there is a big difference in finished floor rigidity depending on which way the ply face grain runs...

Needs to be installed face grain perpendicular to the "joists" . bottom chords whatever...so the face grain SPANS, NOT runs parallel w the supporting members..

If you need reminding, just look what direction plywood is always placed on a roof.

Marc
 

finn

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7/16 osb.

Yes, it’s a little bouncy compared to 3/4” t&g, but so what. It’s not a living area with daily foot traffic, it’s a storage area that’s accessed maybe once a month for twenty years, at which time you’re too old to climb into the attic on a monthly basis.

The objective of light weight is primary, along with being able to support items without collapsing or overloading the structure, and it’s inexpensive.
 

Bigblockyeti

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7/16 osb.

Yes, it’s a little bouncy compared to 3/4” t&g, but so what. It’s not a living area with daily foot traffic, it’s a storage area that’s accessed maybe once a month for twenty years, at which time you’re too old to climb into the attic on a monthly basis.

The objective of light weight is primary, along with being able to support items without collapsing or overloading the structure, and it’s inexpensive.

Did you see my post #22? 7/16" OSB on 24" OC trusses, it DID collapse and likely from someone smaller than me sometime before we bought the house. This decision created a dangerous situation because someone wanted something that was cheap and that was prioritized over being safe. place on 16" OC spaced joists or trusses would be much safer, on 24" OC spacing, not so much.
 

KenC

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Did you see my post #22? 7/16" OSB on 24" OC trusses, it DID collapse and likely from someone smaller than me sometime before we bought the house. This decision created a dangerous situation because someone wanted something that was cheap and that was prioritized over being safe. place on 16" OC spaced joists or trusses would be much safer, on 24" OC spacing, not so much.


I'll bet the omitted the clips. I'll bet over 90% of the wood framed buildings in my area have 7/16"OSB on the roof. And the standard span is 24". I've personally i!nstalled hundreds of sheets. With the clips in place my 240lbs has never broken one. Not even close.

Clips are key! Some guys leave them out because the sheets are slightly more difficult to slide together because the clips need to be aligned.
 

Showkey

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A good example of why we have building codes.

5/8's...minimum....3/4" for a 24" span would be better.

Side note...

I did a 2-story addition to my house. For my second floor...2x12 on 12 OC (14' span). And on top of that, 1 1/8" T&G Plywood....glued and screwed.

I bitched to the architect about it....he said I'll be happy with the results.
He was right. My upstairs floor feels like concrete. No bounce. No noise downstairs. No regrets.

First OP said low cost so maybe 11/8” might be over kill for storage. Due GJ overkill !!!!!

1/2” ply or OSB is good enough for the roof deck.........think it might be good enough for Christmas decorations and general storage.

Code for attic storage ????????? For storage.......doubt it applies to this thread. Especially after its built and DIY add on.

Flooring the attic. An attic can be floored with 1/2″ CDX plywood or OSB , if it is being used only for storage. Living space ...In that case, you will need to use5/8”- 3/4″ thick plywood or OSB. Very dependent on location.


This OSB love/hate thing never gets old ? If you put 3/4” Ply roof deck at over twice the price of 1/2” OSB your home is not worth a penny more on the resale. Nobody cares......
The snow, Ice, rain wind load and Shingles also don’t care............
 
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Bigblockyeti

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are you guys actually using the Advantech, or the cheaper option that's not quite as nice but the same thing? Used the advantech for subfloor because i got it at a steal on Craigslist, but when I needed more i sure as hell wasn't paying an extra $15/sheet.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/T-G-Ori...ERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-203169027-_-100054132-_-N

I've just been using the 23/32" (actual 0.707") T&G OSB subfloor that lowes has, $21.18 per sheet. I need to overlay the 7/16 in the bigger attic and for that, I'll first pull up the nails that I can get to without destroying it, then lay down another sheet of 7/16" on top with glue between then screw them down. Watching some of the newer builder grade houses being thrown together is really disappointing, they'll save $20 or $40 here or there to make a house that could be so much better with only another $1500 and zero additional labor into it. The least expensive new houses aren't that big and start at $275K so the difference in cost is minimal.
 
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