All that is left is the floor- epoxy? ployurea?

[clydesdale]

I finally have my sheetrock walls painted and I am almost done with the concrete foundation knee wall smoothed and plastered. All that will be left is the floor. I had purchased some tiles from costco last year and then returned them. They are nice, but not for me. I really want the look of epoxy or polyurea. So, can someone point me in the right direction for the right product. This is a two car garage attached to my house. It is mostly just for parking cars, but will get some light repair work. It can't be so fragile that you can't roll a jack on it. There are no moisture issues. The concrete is from 1998 and has some oil stains and one small crack near the doors. Life sidetracked me and when I last looked at this it seemed like polyurea was easier to apply and stronger. Advice? Thanks.

 

[benwah]

If you tell us what kind of look you are going for we can build a system for you.

 

[clydesdale]

That is an excellent question. I love the high gloss look. But, it is slippery as hell? Show every scratch?

 

[rjacobs]

so far so good on my Legacy Nohr S floor.

Im careful with my jack. I also cut 4 pieces of MDF to put under my jack stands. I put some small squares of MDF under a metal shelf also. I think a LITTLE precaution on any of the coated floors goes a long way.

We dont make it a habit of walking on it when wet, but we still did the anti-slip additive in the clear coat. Let me be more clear, we dont have a habit of getting the floor wet. It hasnt really rained here in Dallas since we put the floor down so hasnt been a problem. We dont deal with snow melt often either.

Get the oil out of the floor(there are some products I have seen on here that are far superior to others), fill the crack, then grind the floor, then apply the coating.

I went with Polyurea over Epoxy due to the fact I didnt want to deal with the possibility of having a floor that turns yellow due to UV exposure...

 

[Garage Flooring]

I finally have my sheetrock walls painted and I am almost done with the concrete foundation knee wall smoothed and plastered. All that will be left is the floor. I had purchased some tiles from costco last year and then returned them. They are nice, but not for me. I really want the look of epoxy or polyurea. So, can someone point me in the right direction for the right product. This is a two car garage attached to my house. It is mostly just for parking cars, but will get some light repair work. It can't be so fragile that you can't roll a jack on it. There are no moisture issues. The concrete is from 1998 and has some oil stains and one small crack near the doors. Life sidetracked me and when I last looked at this it seemed like polyurea was easier to apply and stronger. Advice? Thanks.

If you are generally happy with the concrete texture/appearance/repairs then I would look at polyurea. If you want to hide some imperfections, epoxy will do that better

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, Polyurea like our SPGX is a great and economical choice if staying with a single coat. If using multiple coats then an epoxy floor would be thicker and run about the same price/sq ft.

Any high gloss floor will show every scratch and dirt mark and be slippery, and for liability reasons we would never recommend not using a non skid additive in a garage, it could be dangerously slippery. But the tradeoff is that a non skid will degloss, and the amount of deglossing is related to the amount used and the particle size.

We normally include a small particle size nonskid in our www.armorcladepoxy.com kits which only slightly deglosses, but gives good traction.

 

[priobe]

I’m not trying to hijack your post. I am in the same situation and would love to see pictures and understand durability of the product. Looking for this to be a DIY.
Hopefully it just does not go stale like most.

Following this post.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Give a ring on Monday if need some detailed help.


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[clydesdale]

I will be proceeding steady with this. I spoke with Legacy last week and we briefly discussed the Nohr-S and I need to do some homework on it now. The first step is that I need to clean this floor well. What is the general recommendation for getting this thing clean?

 

[clydesdale]

I went to Home Depot today and inquired about the concrete surface prep machines to rent there. They have a grinder, which I was told was to level the concrete and then they had what looked like a floor polisher that is used to condition the floor. So, my question is which machine do I use? I plan on using something like Xtreme Set 100 to repair a couple spots of concrete. Please advise. Thanks.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I went to Home Depot today and inquired about the concrete surface prep machines to rent there. They have a grinder, which I was told was to level the concrete and then they had what looked like a floor polisher that is used to condition the floor. So, my question is which machine do I use? I plan on using something like Xtreme Set 100 to repair a couple spots of concrete. Please advise. Thanks.

Larger unit. Probably an Edco. Thank me later.


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[clydesdale]

Thank you. I went back to home depot tonight and the machine was not there, so I will confirm what machine they have next time I am there. If they don't have the right machine, I'll go to a tool rental store.

But, I could still use some help with the coating choice. I believe it will be polyurea. But, I may want to go with a solid color to avoid the flake and scenario where I cannot find small items that were dropped on the floor. But, I also don't want it to be dangerously slippery if wet. Is there something that can make a solid color, but have some grit or grip? Thanks.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Thank you. I went back to home depot tonight and the machine was not there, so I will confirm what machine they have next time I am there. If they don't have the right machine, I'll go to a tool rental store.

But, I could still use some help with the coating choice. I believe it will be polyurea. But, I may want to go with a solid color to avoid the flake and scenario where I cannot find small items that were dropped on the floor. But, I also don't want it to be dangerously slippery if wet. Is there something that can make a solid color, but have some grit or grip? Thanks.

Our kit gives you the ability to opt out of flake. However, flakes don't offer measurable non-skid anyway. Use our HDGrip Soft Skid in the last coat, grade: fine.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I’m not trying to hijack your post. I am in the same situation and would love to see pictures and understand durability of the product. Looking for this to be a DIY.
Hopefully it just does not go stale like most.

Following this post.

https://www.garageflooringllc.com/category/garage-floor-coatings/polyurea-coating-projects-reviews/

 

[SPaikmos]

I'm in the process of applying my flooring now. Almost done with the first garage.

For rentals, I tried THREE different machines. The Home Depot single disc grinder is ok, but IMHO you should go with a shot blaster. So much easier to use, less dust too. I rented mine from Sunbelt; you can buy the abrasive shot from them as well, or find another store for that.

I'm applying the polyurea tomorrow, will post a writeup when it's all done.

 

[GRivera]

Which shotblaster did you rent and what makes it easier? How large is the head on the blaster?

 

[SPaikmos]

I rented the smallest one from Sunbelt rentals. 110V 8" head.

I plan to do a writeup on my experiences with grinding. The TL;DR:

Grinding is very inconsistent because the heads likely aren't level and you'll get lots of circular scuff marks. I'm sure you've seen them in photos. Issues:

- takes a long time
- bits get clogged by any residual floor coating
- if the heads aren't level and the pads aren't "bedded in", the grind will be inconsistent

Shot blasting is nicer because it creates less dust, gives more consistent prep, and goes a lot faster. Some down sides:

- steel shot goes EVERYWHERE. PITA to clean up. The magnet helps, but I have a steel building so i can't get the shot out of all the nooks and crannies.
- it can also be inconsistent because the machine will have a "pattern" where one side abrades more than the other. It's not as noticeable, but it's still there.

With both methods, the key is to know what to look for and adjust your process accordingly.

 

[clydesdale]

I went to another tool rental place today and they were talking about a grinder that seemed to have two diamond/stone discs. They were charging $510 per day for the disc and machine. It was not there for me to look at, but was made by Edco. Does this sound like the right machine and normal price?

 

[clydesdale]

Well, I am reviving this thread. I never got to the floor last year. Life through me a curve ball and I had to put my attention elsewhere. So, I am planning my attack to prep and coat this floor in the spring. I have a couple of months to make my decision. I like the shiny metallic look, but I don't want this to be slippery or look all scratched up. I don't think I want flakes because small items might get dropped on the floor and I don't want to spend my life looking for them. So, a solid color would be nice. Suggestions? Thanks.

 

[komalakustoms]

I would look into the ArmorPoxy system too. Maybe they will chime in here. I just got my sample in. Just need to make a decision on which system to go to.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Epoxy and polyurea are both coatings. Both have some advantages and disadvantages.

Please email us below (not PM) your questions/concerns and we will do our best to address them.