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ShadowRuleZ

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Feb 27, 2011
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1,916
Location
Detroit
Found a 3/4 industrial the other day, been a few years since I bought one. Missing the left hand side cover, anyone have a spare? I still need to pull down my others and see if any of the other ones match up.
 

Tinkerer2

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Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
343
Location
Central Florida
I recently purchased a 397.19580 and it came with left side being a stone and the right side is a wire wheel. Both could very well be original. Well maybe the wire wheel was swapped later. I don't know. Did they come with 1 grinding and 1 wire wheel?

Anyway, being that they are 50+ years old and reading here that the wheel could be compromised, I'd like to replace it. What grinding wheel (brand & part #) is recommended? And how long do the wire wheels last? Could it also be compromised and should be replaced for safety? If so, what brand & part # is recommended?

Owner's manual says the wheel is coarse 36 grit. Is that what everyone uses?
 
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Old Radar

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Joined
Apr 17, 2019
Messages
2,755
Location
San Antonio, TX
I recently purchased a 397.19580 and it came with left side being a stone and the right side is a wire wheel. Both could very well be original. Well maybe the wire wheel was swapped later. I don't know. Did they come with 1 grinding and 1 wire wheel?

Anyway, being that they are 50+ years old and reading here that the wheel could be compromised, I'd like to replace it. What grinding wheel (brand & part #) is recommended? And how long do the wire wheels last? Could it also be compromised and should be replaced for safety? If so, what brand & part # is recommended?

Owner's manual says the wheel is coarse 36 grit. Is that what everyone uses?

If the ebay NOS machine that you posted earlier is to be believed, they came with two stones--can't say for sure. You can search for "Ring Test" on google to see how to check whether your stone is compromised, but no one will fault you for changing it to be on the safe side.

Both stones and wire wheels will last in accordance with how and how often they are used. If you are grinding the **** out of hardened steel on a daily basis, things are not going to last as long as if you just sharpen a chisel or two when they get dull. It's hard to really wear out a wire wheel unless you abuse it.

Like stones, wire wheels come in graduated coarseness to effectively deal with different applications. Your 36 grit stone is coarse and is designed for removing material quickly. Like sandpaper, the higher the number the finer the grit and the smoother the grind.

Without knowing what you intend to use your grinder for, no one can say with certainty what the best wheels would be. For occasional garage grinding chores, a medium 80 grit will usually work well combined with either a more coarse or less coarse second wheel, depending on what you need.

To cover all the bases, you may need more than one grinder! :bounce:

And don't forget--you need to balance your wheels just like a car. Otherwise excessive vibration causes excess wear, noise and makes smooth grinding more problematic. You can google how to do this, too.

Good luck and happy grinding!
 

lafester

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
2,191
Location
Northern CO
Found a 3/4 industrial the other day, been a few years since I bought one. Missing the left hand side cover, anyone have a spare? I still need to pull down my others and see if any of the other ones match up.

Round or flat top?

Flat tops are easy as all the 1 hp models will match up.
Round tops are rare and hard to find, but I think I have one.
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,195
Location
The Badlands
STM, on the wheel behind the sharpening jig, it looks like someone ground aluminum on it and it's loaded up?

If you don't replace that wheel, use a wheel dresser and get that crud off. its bad news...

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Tinkerer2

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
343
Location
Central Florida
If the ebay NOS machine that you posted earlier is to be believed, they came with two stones--can't say for sure. You can search for "Ring Test" on google to see how to check whether your stone is compromised, but no one will fault you for changing it to be on the safe side.

Both stones and wire wheels will last in accordance with how and how often they are used. If you are grinding the **** out of hardened steel on a daily basis, things are not going to last as long as if you just sharpen a chisel or two when they get dull. It's hard to really wear out a wire wheel unless you abuse it.

Like stones, wire wheels come in graduated coarseness to effectively deal with different applications. Your 36 grit stone is coarse and is designed for removing material quickly. Like sandpaper, the higher the number the finer the grit and the smoother the grind.

Without knowing what you intend to use your grinder for, no one can say with certainty what the best wheels would be. For occasional garage grinding chores, a medium 80 grit will usually work well combined with either a more coarse or less coarse second wheel, depending on what you need.

To cover all the bases, you may need more than one grinder! :bounce:

And don't forget--you need to balance your wheels just like a car. Otherwise excessive vibration causes excess wear, noise and makes smooth grinding more problematic. You can google how to do this, too.

Good luck and happy grinding!

I didn't get that grinder on eBay :)

I've used the wire wheel on the grinder and didn't think much about the grinding wheel. But today I was doing something else and went to move the grinder. I noticed shiny spots on the wheel. Must have caught the light just right. Seller said it belonged to his dad who used it when building experimental aircraft. That got me to thinking that the shiny bits may be aluminum which from what I've read may not be good for certain stones. Thus my desire to replace the stone plus due to its age.

I will be using it for occasional garage grinding with the heaviest use may be sharpening lawnmower blades. 80 grit sounds like a good compromise I think. But what brand is a good brand? I've seen stones from about $8 to almost $100. And where to buy? Amazon may throw it in a box with a little brown paper or 2 air pillows and it might flop around in a 2 cubic ft box.

A second grinder is not an option for me.
 

shoxthemonkey

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Joined
Jul 30, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Flint Hills, KS
STM, on the wheel behind the sharpening jig, it looks like someone ground aluminum on it and it's loaded up?

If you don't replace that wheel, use a wheel dresser and get that crud off. its bad news...

attachment.php
Good catch. It is loaded with aluminum and I have already dressed it away. In our plant we do a lot of aluminum and magnesium flashing removal so I know what that is.
 

damon18

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Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
621
Location
Memphis, TN
Found this complete 397.19580 with stand and drill attachment on FB today.

It's in better shape than the one I bought last year but I had to pay up to get it. ($100) The only defect I can see is a previous owner seems to have etched their social security number on the top! (see third picture)

Because of the board under the grinder, I thought the stand was some mismatched generic, but thanks to the FrankLee Craftsman Pedestal Stand Thread
I found it was an original Craftsman that matches the grinder.

How is that Craftsman Drill Grinding Attachment No. 6677 meant to be used? It looks like the previous owner set it up to grind on the side of the wheel? I have a lot of old drill bits that could be sharpened if the thing actually works.
 

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whateg01

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Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
11,253
Location
doo dah, kansas, usa
...
How is that Craftsman Drill Grinding Attachment No. 6677 meant to be used? It looks like the previous owner set it up to grind on the side of the wheel? I have a lot of old drill bits that could be sharpened if the thing actually works.

If you slip the twist drill into it, there should be a little finger that catches the flute. Here's a video showing it in use.


I used mine a few times, but then went back to offhand sharpening because it's so much faster. If I need a drill to be knat's ***, I think about using it, but I never do. The chips come off evenly, so I think I'm good enough. I don't trust drills to drill onsize anyway, so if it's got to be an exact fit, I get out the boring head and boring bar.

Dave
 

Stuart in MN

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Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
23,088
Location
Minneapolis
I finally found a block grinder for a decent price at a garage sale today - it's a 1/4hp model that runs well and is pretty clean, I got it for $20. It is missing the eye shields and someone installed a different on-off switch so I'd like to replace those if I can...is anyone parting out these things? It needs new grinding wheels as well but I already have some so that's not a big deal. [EDIT: I found the previous posts about sources for eye shields, but would still like to have an original style on-off switch.]

I thought they were supposed to have manufacturing dates stamped on the bottom, but all I found was the number 6355A.

Also, it doesn't have a quench tray, but it doesn't look like it ever had one...the little slot on the center of the base where one would hook is plugged with a little punch out slug.

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JoCoSawdust

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Nov 19, 2018
Messages
2,416
Location
Eastern NC
I've never seen one with that alpha/numeric code on it Stuart.

Since there's not a pre-pre-block thread I'll throw this jewel I found the other day in here.

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JoCoSawdust

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Nov 19, 2018
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2,416
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Eastern NC
Thanks Frank. I suppose there's different versions of what's a block and what's not a block that's already been beaten to death.

Thanks for the link. I'll be tearing this one down once the weather cools off. Runs like a champ but needs a good bath. I love that pedastal stand that came with yours!
 

Countyroadtrailers

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Joined
Feb 14, 2019
Messages
98
Location
Alabama
They were in the 1974 catalog and then the flat tops came a year later.
The end of an era for sure.

I drove down to the hardware store, then Lowe's, then home depot for a affordable bench grinder to replace an older Dayton that needs some TLC but none were in stock. I feel crazy that I'd even consider purchasing something like that but it being brand new from another time it would probably last a lot longer then anything in my price point made today.
 

lafester

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Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
2,191
Location
Northern CO
I drove down to the hardware store, then Lowe's, then home depot for a affordable bench grinder to replace an older Dayton that needs some TLC but none were in stock. I feel crazy that I'd even consider purchasing something like that but it being brand new from another time it would probably last a lot longer then anything in my price point made today.

Whats wrong with the dayton? Is it a US made model?
Finding a local deal is the best way to go.
Just be patient and check every day.
 

damon18

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Jan 24, 2018
Messages
621
Location
Memphis, TN
If you slip the twist drill into it, there should be a little finger that catches the flute. Here's a video showing it in use.


I used mine a few times, but then went back to offhand sharpening because it's so much faster. If I need a drill to be knat's ***, I think about using it, but I never do. The chips come off evenly, so I think I'm good enough. I don't trust drills to drill onsize anyway, so if it's got to be an exact fit, I get out the boring head and boring bar.

Dave

Thanks Dave, I think I'll just remove the wood and get the grinder setup on the pedestal as designed. Seems like the angle of that attachment would be fairly critical and can't see how that could be achieved with the thing bolted to a wooden plank.
 

whateg01

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Mar 13, 2006
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11,253
Location
doo dah, kansas, usa
Thanks Dave, I think I'll just remove the wood and get the grinder setup on the pedestal as designed. Seems like the angle of that attachment would be fairly critical and can't see how that could be achieved with the thing bolted to a wooden plank.

Honestly, the angle isn't critical at all. As long as both sides are the same angle and the same length, it will drill. There are situations where you'd want more angle and some where you'd want less, hence 118 and 135 degree drills. There are others, too. You may also sometimes want no rake on the cutting edge, such as when drilling brass. So, there are no hard and fast rules about drill geometry. If you aren't well practiced in off hand grinding, and don't want to be, the jig works as it's supposed to. If you watch some of Adam Booth's videos, he shows a better jig, but it works similarly to this low cost version. There's somebody else who has one in their videos, too.

If you have some cheap drills, you can try grinding one. There are videos out there explaining it, and if you study the factory grind, you can learn alot about how the drill works. Some things, like split points, you probably won't be able to do by hand, but that's not usually a big deal, especially on bigger drills where you would use a pilot anyway.

Dave
 

whateg01

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Mar 13, 2006
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doo dah, kansas, usa
Picked up another 1/3 HP grinder tonight for $20. Needs a switch, but both eye shields, both rests, and the light are there. The stand will have to go, regardless what I do with this one. I didn't really need a 6th grinder, but I don't need 10 vintage floor jacks, 5 drill presses, 11 table saws, etc. either. I may have a problem, but I'm not admitting it yet!

Dave
 

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exmaxima1

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Jun 25, 2011
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Midwest
Damn. About 5 years ago I came across a never used NOS block grinder (I believe its posted somewhere in this thread) Had no idea it was worth that much :(

It sold for $359, but even that is insane. A 1/3hp model only used a few times (essentially like new) rarely sells for more than $100, so having the box somehow adds $250 to the price :dunno:
 

Countyroadtrailers

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Feb 14, 2019
Messages
98
Location
Alabama
Well here's mine, I know the price might have been insane to some but I thought it was very nice to assemble something made in the USA brand new in the box from 50 years ago.

I was on the fence about punching out the cooling bowl knock-out as it was obviously still covered by the factory tab, but since it was to be used I decided to go ahead and install it.

I justified it internally as it was going to cost me around 150 to but something new, from overseas and this was twice that but will likely outlast anything I could go buy today unless I spent 5-700 for a Baldor.

I considered rehabbing a 50 dollar "garage find" but by the time I found one, painted, and played with it my time is more valuable in my trade the working on a grinder. It matches my craftsman lathe, drill press, and color matches my Do-all saw so I'm happy.682cccb52b39a8cf4f70f4271de1732b.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 

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kenc184

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Feb 25, 2012
Messages
718
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Nor Cal
A 3/4hp commercial, I guess that's pretty much top of the food chain, but for $375 I think I'll stick with the 3 smaller ones I already have.
 

lafester

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Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
2,191
Location
Northern CO
If it was slightly earlier with the hd tray and 8 inch wheels $375 would actually be a good buy. Still cool to see any of them still in the box.

Oh wait it IS the 8 inch with the heavy duty switch. Still, without the big base it's hard to get up to $375 but it is much closer. I had no idea you could get one without it.
 
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