I started changing my own oil...

[Kid B]

I decided to start changing the oil on the family cars (2010 Toyota Camry, 2000 F150 V8 Triton 5.4). After all, I can save time and money by using Costco's new synthetic oil (comes out to about $25 per oil change).

I started with the F150 and when I went to replace the filter, I noticed the new filter was the wrong size. I just popped the previous filter back on. Hoping it's good for another 5k miles. Will my car be okay or will it explode?

Seriously though am I doing long term damage to the car or is 10k miles on one filter okay?

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

It won’t explode lol but I would get a filter for it always change the filter some of those filters for Ford were just longer like the FL1A Ford filter is interchangeable with a shorter filter as long as it is the same ring size at the top. Don’t leave the other one on I have seen them get stopped up before sometimes they will fly off I know because it happened to my brother in law one time it wasn’t good he almost ran the engine completely out of oil if he wouldn’t of stopped in time.


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[Kodiak]

Yeah, I would just change the filter when you can and recheck the oil level.

 

[slow]

Just swap the filter without doing an oil change and add a little oil to make the dipstick full again. I did this when i used a fram filter once and oil pressure was low, swapped back the factory delco filter and it went back to 40psi.

 

[blazemaster83]

You def want to change the filter

 

[Kid B]

Seems like if I don't drain the oil it's going to pour out. If I drain it first into a clean oil pan is it safe to pour back in the engine?

 

[LooneySS]

I think it depends on your driving conditions, but for the most part you should be fine. (No damage to the filter itself or the seal) There are a lot of vehicles run a 10k service between changes with synthetic. I do in any daily driver i have owned, 30k+ miles a year, this year I will not put the miles on it.

For peace of mind there is nothing wrong with swapping th filter.

 

[nadogail]

Welcome to the forum from Southwestern California.

I am confident that your filter that you re-installed on your Ford will not explode.

In my opinion, you should take the filter you did not install on your F150 to the store you got it from and allow them to explain why the appearance of the new filter is different than the filter that you presently have on you Ford.

 

[Kodiak]

Seems like if I don't drain the oil it's going to pour out. If I drain it first into a clean oil pan is it safe to pour back in the engine?

You're not going to lose much oil from just removing the old filter. There'll be a little but just put rag under it as you twist it off. Maybe a pan under it to keep drips off the driveway if you want. Spin the new filter on and recheck the level on the dip stick and add a little if necessary. All the oil won't drain from the pan - just the little that's in the filter.

Even if you did drain the pan, the same small amount that's stored in the filter will drain as you remove it. Definitely not necessary to drain the pan.

 

[chris142]

Keep in mind that there may be several filters that will fit,work and function correctly. Some manufacturer have consolidated filter #'s.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Plenty of people go 10 thousand miles between changes, as long as you didn't damage the o-ring, you'll be fine till the next change.

If it bothers you, then like others have said, change the filter. You'll only lose whats in the filter, and maybe a few more ounces.

I always like to fill the oil filter before I put it on, but some filters go on sideways, so you can't.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

Something to make oil changes a lot easier is a Fumoto drain valve. You could get one for just one vehicle, and then see how you like it.

 

[aaron.kaluzynski]

You will be fine leaving the old filter on til next oil change. If it bothers you change it. No need to drain oil all you will lose is what's in the filter. As perviously stated you may have the right filter, the size are different between manufacturers. Definitely not the end of the world.

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[19Vert64]

Would you take a shower then put on the same underwear? Same thing


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[Kodiak]

Would you take a shower then put on the same underwear? Same thing


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Except that when you decide to change the underwear, you won't have 4 or 5 oz of liquid drain out....or you shouldn't at least.

 

[Wrench97]

I see it all the time the quick lube shops like to the narrower filter as it's easier to get in and out of the confined spacer in the front of the Fords The Hastings LF110 is the short fat on while the LF641 is a smaller diameter and longer both are M22x1.5 threads and have the same bypass pressure and antidrain back valve.
Ford starting using the 641 in 2010 or 11 on the V8's in the pickups.

 

[Pen & Wrench]

You might want to watch for leaks. I had to do that just before a vacation trip many years ago. I didn't have a filter, & figured I'd just change the oil and there would be no problem. What I didn't know is when I put the filter back on, the filter wrench I used weakened the thin metal on the filter and it started dripping. By the time we got home it started leaking more, and when the drips found their way on to the exhaust pipe, I knew I had a problem. I didn't run the engine out of oil but it was way lower than I wanted it to be. You're probably smarter than me and didn't take the filter off and have to put it back on again.

 

[Ralf11]

a filter with filtrate (the material to be filtered) on it will filter BETTER than a new one

BUT... if it has so much filtrate on it that it clogs, then it will activate the bypass valve and not filter at all

if it has no bypass valve, it will explode eventually

so, your choice

 

[Joemctag]

What everyone said and I’d suggest:
Write down somewhere this info for each vehicle: weight and type of oil, capacity with filter, drain plug wrench size. I keep a 4” x 5” notebook in the glovebox with all maint and repair info but you could write it on the door jamb, under the hood with a sharpie or on your garage wall. Oil weight is important with newer engines. All your vehicles could be different.
When you buy your oil and filters, write on them what vehicle ( e.g.: ‘05 Accord ).
Then get the rest of your oil change trip together: Extra jugs to take used oil back to the auto parts store. Filter wrenches ( might need a different one for each vehicle ), clean-up stuff.
Changing your own oil, you get to keep an eye on stuff. Good luck.
Oh, I use ramps, but put rubber mud flaps under them so they don’t slide, which they’ll want to do.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Best place to buy Motorcraft filters is Walmart. Mine is kind of "hit and miss" on stock, so I usually buy 2 or 3 at a time.

BTW, changed mine a couple of weeks ago. Been doing it for OVER 50 YEARS !

 

[PassnThru]

You're not going to lose much oil from just removing the old filter. There'll be a little but just put rag under it as you twist it off. Maybe a pan under it to keep drips off the driveway if you want. Spin the new filter on and recheck the level on the dip stick and add a little if necessary. All the oil won't drain from the pan - just the little that's in the filter.

Even if you did drain the pan, the same small amount that's stored in the filter will drain as you remove it. Definitely not necessary to drain the pan.

Yes. Your oil drains into your oil pan when the engine is off. If you look, you will notice that your filter is higher than your oil pan. You will only lose what's in the filter and the small amount in the lines that push it in and receives it out.
And congrats for being willing to change your own oil. It's a start to your independence. Sure, it's only oil changes now, but it will evolve into starters, alternators, brakes, diff and trans oil changes, and on and on. Next thing you know, you won't remember the last time you took a vehicle somewhere for a repair

 

[Kid B]

Best place to buy Motorcraft filters is Walmart. Mine is kind of "hit and miss" on stock, so I usually buy 2 or 3 at a time.

BTW, changed mine a couple of weeks ago. Been doing it for OVER 50 YEARS !

I’ll keep this in mind. I went ahead and switched the filters. Just hand tightened. Thanks for the advice, all. 40 years old and just now learning to change my own oil. Best part is having my son under the truck with me! He’ll learn a lot earlier.

 

[yeldogt]

All our cars go 10k at least before a change ... unless it's one of my personal garage queens that I change out every two years

I don't bother changing my own oil as my independent also does a rotation and gives it a look over .. not worth the trouble.

All our fleet cars go past 250k -- 10/12K changes .. before they are retired to an employee

 

[PassnThru]

I don't bother changing my own oil as my independent also does a rotation and gives it a look over .. not worth the trouble.

You have to admit though, it's a good place to start. Change your own oil, getting under a vehicle for probably the first time - learning to give it a once over yourself. Looking for leaks, skid marks on the undercarriage of the wife's vehicle (don't ask), etc.
Tire rotations? A good chance to get comfortable with jacking a car up. It's not a simple thing anymore with Unibody cars. And you get to look at the brakes and the suspension components. May not mean much to you in the beginning but the more exposure you have to the components that make up your vehicle the better.
Everyone has to start somewhere - and the goal is to build confidence to go further.


Of course, the main goal is to figure out what new tools you need to buy but we all know that

 

[like2wheel]

BUT... if it has so much filtrate on it that it clogs, then it will activate the bypass valve and not filter at all

if it has no bypass valve, it will explode eventually

so, your choice

Lol...

So much wrong with this I wouldn't know where to start

 

[Kodiak]

And congrats for being willing to change your own oil. It's a start to your independence. Sure, it's only oil changes now, but it will evolve into starters, alternators, brakes, diff and trans oil changes, and on and on. Next thing you know, you won't remember the last time you took a vehicle somewhere for a repair

Absolutely. I second this. Nice to see someone take the initiative and ask for tips. YouTube can be a resource too. We recently got a couple ATVs and I've watched a few videos on how to work on those. It's very satisfying to be self sufficient. You'll know you've arrived when your neighbors start showing up with lawnmowers that won't start, etc.

 

[king nero]

Best part is having my son under the truck with me! He’ll learn a lot earlier.

Keep your son safe! I let my kid help me when I was younger (handing me whatever I needed, and letting him choose the tools from my cart) but I never let him under my lift...

 

[mike93lx]

10k interval on a filter is fine.

It is even recommended by Ford on almost everything today

 

[Notgrownup]

Unless I get a coupon for a dealership oil and rotation I change my own, it’s pretty easy.

 

[CitadelBlue]

I like the old spin on filters. The ones that come with my Toyotas are more compilcated and messy. Why did car manufacturer change this?

 

[GirchyGirchy]

I put 10k on our filters with synthetic. If it were either turbocharged or I was using conventional oil, I probably wouldn't.

 

[Showkey]

10k interval on a filter is fine.

It is even recommended by Ford on almost everything today

Many manufacturers spec oil filter change every other interval so that would be filter very 20k. Good or bad it’s the norm.

I like the old spin on filters. The ones that come with my Toyotas are more compilcated and messy. Why did car manufacturer change this?

Easy of recycling ( no metal can to deal with) and less waste and lower cost and less pollution..........most Euro brands switched to the element style filter.

 

[CraigStu]

I like having the specs available so I write them on the underside of the hood w/ a marker.

 

[amkluttz]

I guess I go against the grain on this one. I've seen the insides of these cheap filters after 10k miles and I wouldn't dare put that kind of mileage on one. I do full synthetic oil changes on all of my vehicles every 5k or once a year, whichever comes first. I always change the filter and the drain plug crush washer. With the low cost of full synthetic these days and being able to buy bulk filters from places like Rock Auto an oil change every 5k is some of the cheapest insurance money can buy.

With people going to these long 10k, 15k and 20k intervals what they don't seem to remember is that they still have to check the oil on a regular basis. Oil changes every 5k and you're less likely to grenade an engine due to no oil because you forgot to check it.

 

[Kodiak]

In the early 80s I can remember my dad changing filters every other oil change. That was with conventional oil but was probably every 3,000 miles too. Honestly, it's so inexpensive and easy to do that I just change it each time.

I used to have a 67 Chevelle SS396 that had the old canister style filter. Talk about a mess.

 

[theoldwizard1]

All our cars go 10k at least before a change ... unless it's one of my personal garage queens that I change out every two years

Modern oils are INCREDIBLY good ! The one thing they can not combat is excessive moisture (condensation) from low miles. Engines need to be run at full operating temperature for at least 30 minutes at least once/month.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Ford say 7,500 miles so that is what I do. It usually takes 12-18 months to get that many miles, but it does get its highway time !

 

[Robbie B]

I run a 10k oci in my 2017 fiesta. I use the Mobil1 extended interval oil and filter in it. In my wife’s 2012 caravan in run a 5k oci and use supertech high mileage synthetic blend with the mopar filter. Only vehicle I’ve had in the last 10 years that I ran a 3k oci on was my 95 ram. It had a little more mileage on it and I didn’t want to take a chance with it.

 

[exmaxima1]

I like the old spin on filters. The ones that come with my Toyotas are more compilcated and messy. Why did car manufacturer change this?

The way I understand it is that it was required for Toyota to sell to the European market, so they made it an across the board change. In most of Europe they want to minimize their landfills and don't want metal oil filter cases. The filter elements alone can easily be incinerated with no impact on the landfills.

 

[Wrench97]

The way I understand it is that it was required for Toyota to sell to the European market, so they made it an across the board change. In most of Europe they want to minimize their landfills and don't want metal oil filter cases. The filter elements alone can easily be incinerated with no impact on the landfills.

Yep it's about the waste stream, expect to see most filters revert back to cartridge in the coming years, the best to work with are the type with a top cap