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Porch roofing questions

Lennyzx11

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Bennington Vermont
I’m getting ready to start on my wraparound porch roof and for the life of me can’t envision how to bring the two roofs together and look decent.

I want to have a shed type roof over each side meeting with a hip at the outside corner.

If I place a ledger under the 2nd story window then lay a sleeper ledger on the roof in the same place, do I bring my king rafter from that intersection or inline with the diagonal from outside corner of porch and outside corner of roof?

I’m probably overthinking this but one span will be about a foot more than the other so it will be an irregular hip.

I ordered “the roof framer’s bible” to be here tomorrow in hopes it can help me.

And I haven’t even started figuring how to tie into the original roof’s valley.

Any help or markups are greatly appreciated.

For reference here’s some measurements.

Left wall original house from floor to soffit = 96”
Rightmost wall from window to porch = 110”

Floor on left side = 96”
Floor on right side = 76”.

0718bc004e95804e3e3a30566c5c6b35.jpg


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Kaizen

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It won’t be easy. The left side with valley is the problem. If it’s going to be a 4/12 pitch then it will be like five feet high at the outer part of the porch. Or are you doing a flat or almost flat roof?
This wraparound is normally seen on tall walls like the other one you have.



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yeldogt

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Well -- it's too late now.

But -- the way to do that IMO. You make a breeze way roof at the door out to a new free standing structure.

The new structure sits away from the house with its own roof -- basically -- it's a shallow roof pole building with a raised floor. Sometimes you do a tiered roof in metal ... this cuts down on the uprights. Also cheaper. this way nothing changes at the house except the small point over the door -- all the rest stays the same.

You want the structure to look different. Hanging something off of an existing building always looks tacked on ... and the roof problem has no real answer.
 

NUTTSGT

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Oh wow, that's going to difficult for one of little experience. You're going to have a two piece valley and a few double angle cuts for those rafters on the left side.

Maybe a 3/12 roof ?
 

readhead

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Durango, Co.
To get enough head room I would suggest that you remove some shingles and start the new roof up the slope of the existing roof. Also because of the unequal spans you will have unequal overhangs at the eaves.
 

Bert_

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To get everything to work out, you may also need to put in a shorter window in the second floor.

I don't think that's a good option looks-wise.

I think it's going to need a very low sloped roof. About where the flood light is would be a good spot for the top of the roof. Not sure what the height is at that point. Hopefully it would be enough.

Traditionally porch roofs have been fairly low-slope. If you bring the roof line up too high on the house it makes the second floor look very short and out of proportion.
 
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Lennyzx11

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Bennington Vermont
To get enough head room I would suggest that you remove some shingles and start the new roof up the slope of the existing roof. Also because of the unequal spans you will have unequal overhangs at the eaves.


I do plan on that. I was hoping to be close to the 110” vertical height under the window but that only gives me 16” rise over 8 ft.
I need 4’ to get a 4:12 for a total of 144”.
Or 36” rise for a 3:12. Which is minimum. That means 132” rise on roof end.
Thoughts now are going up to that ridge on top of valley to the left and come across there. That solves the valley problem.


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Lennyzx11

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I don't think that's a good option looks-wise.

I think it's going to need a very low sloped roof. About where the flood light is would be a good spot for the top of the roof. Not sure what the height is at that point. Hopefully it would be enough.

Traditionally porch roofs have been fairly low-slope. If you bring the roof line up too high on the house it makes the second floor look very short and out of proportion.


Yes, that floodlight was where I was “eyeballing” where the corner of the ledgers could be. One coming from under window just enough to get flashing tucked in and then ledger laid on top of roof for over door side.


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Bert_

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My opinion, forget about shingles. To get enough slope for them to work it's going to be way to far up on the second floor.

I think your going to want the roof a few courses of siding below the second floor windows.
 
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manwithtools

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I hope you considered a method of attaching your roof support members to your footings securely. Just fastening them to the deck is not a good plan, you need uplift hesitance and that requires attachment to the concrete piers (that I think I see in your picture.)

Ideally your posts would be continuous from concrete to roof support beam. You could then support the deck form those posts.

As for the roof lines, I would either make some good sketches or model it in 3D software to get a good feel for looks and proportions and to see what surprises you might be in for. It's going to be a real pain to change the roof construction after you have it up and realize you don't like the way it looks.
 
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rburke65

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Canfield, Ohio
I’m not a carpenter....tough now to figure roof out. As said...some pre thought on how to attach roof to deck would have been a good idea. Good luck.
 

wrenchguy

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I can't believe it when people put outdoor decks/slabs at threshold height, especially in northern climates.
Redo roof line over door to match left side, put a crank-out awning somewhere and call it a day.:dunno:
 
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Lennyzx11

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The deck is on 10” sonotube piers 5 ft deep concrete.
The 3x8 beams rest upon those in Simpson post brackets screwed with structural screws per specs. There will be post braces by Simpson coming from beam to post bottom and toenail into the beam from above. This was built as I can so it was planned out as a deck then evolves into a porch so it doesn’t look like a half *** project longer than needed. I work alone.

As far as the threshold height...
My brother in law who now lives with us has cystic fibrosis and losing his ability to walk as he ages.
I built the porch primarily for him to be able to get outside on the porch when he’s confined to a wheelchair in the years to come.
The roof is to keep the weather and snow away from the door. The house wrap has been redone and rubber membrane applied over the ledger and the drip flashing applied.


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NUTTSGT

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I don't think that's a good option looks-wise.

I think it's going to need a very low sloped roof. About where the flood light is would be a good spot for the top of the roof. Not sure what the height is at that point. Hopefully it would be enough.

Traditionally porch roofs have been fairly low-slope. If you bring the roof line up too high on the house it makes the second floor look very short and out of proportion.

I have no idea where everything is going to lay out. I was merely suggesting that may have to be replaced.

The OP has to contend with a porch roof on the gable and wrap around and meet a roof line with a higher edge.

I'd guess a 3/12 pitch roof for the porch would be fine. That's what I put on our porch 15 years ago and i's fine. I did have to replace one window with a shorter window as the garage roof came too close.


Just throwing information out for the OP of things he might have to take into account and not to be surprised when they get laid out.
 

Jlbc212

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You could use a 4" pitch by framing out a box between the rafters below those windows so that you have a "flat" roof section below the windows. Give the "flat" roof a slight pitch so water runs off.

As to the hip ... picture framing the wider section of the porch first, then the narrower section. The top of the hip rafter will intersect the wider section of the roof at a point 76"(the narrower porch width) in from the outer porch wall support. The window wall will have to be extended a short amount. Picture a small triangle filling in the space between the top of the wider roof at the the wall corner, the point where the two porch roofs intersect and back to where the narrower roof meets the wall corner.

The new valley should be a non-issue. The plane of the new roof will extend over the old left roof and will form a new valley.

The two porch soffits can be at identical heights.
 
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GoodStuff

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Versailles, KY
Shingles is not the answer… If you frame out a 1/2 over 12 or 1/12 pitch everything will look right... then roof with EPDM and you will be water tight


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Lennyzx11

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Bennington Vermont
You could use a 4" pitch by framing out a box between the rafters below those windows so that you have a "flat" roof section below the windows. Give the "flat" roof a slight pitch so water runs off.

As to the hip ... picture framing the wider section of the porch first, then the narrower section. The top of the hip rafter will intersect the wider section of the roof at a point 76"(the narrower porch width) in from the outer porch wall support. The window wall will have to be extended a short amount. Picture a small triangle filling in the space between the top of the wider roof at the the wall corner, the point where the two porch roofs intersect and back to where the narrower roof meets the wall corner.

The new valley should be a non-issue. The plane of the new roof will extend over the old left roof and will form a new valley.

The two porch soffits can be at identical heights.


I missed this reply till now.
I never thought of “boxing” under the window.
That’s why I’m glad forums like these are available. When you work alone, you’re not exposed to all the ideas, tips, and tricks that others have seen or are commonplace out in the professional world.
Thank you.


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Bretny

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By the looks of the height of that door you dont have a header over it and I would say it's a load supporting wall. I would fix that first.
You dont really have any height to start with above the door to keep any head room at the far end of the deck. This seams like a pretty poorly thought out roof. The roof pitch is the first thing I start with when planning. Really the only wany to do it now is to put a ridge beam over the door and have things pitch away and down to each corner. It's a bit tough to explain.
 

CraigStu

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Before thinking about a smaller window check w/ local code. In some places there are minimum window specs so a fully geared fireman can get though it.
 

WarDamnEagle

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Auburn
Good luck. There's no obvious way to do that. Maybe patio furniture with one of those big rectangular cantilevered umbrellas? :)
 
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Lennyzx11

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Bennington Vermont
Just an update.
I have started the Left roof at the same height up on the main roof as the right roof 4” below the windows.
Right pitch is approx 3.4 to 1 and left is 2:1.
By adjusting the hip rafter offset to the steeper pitch side and adding to the top plate height I can make my overhangs come out equal.
Not done yet but moving forward.


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