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VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

Outlawmws

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Outlaw,

Strangely there are no signs of it being ground as far as I can tell.

All,

I’ve seen a few threads here of people shimming and grinding their vise to ensure it is 100% flush and I guess that would be ideal and even necessary when working with very thin material or doing a project that requires such accuracy.

I don’t usually need such level of accuracy, do you foresee any issues with the current state of the vise?

b40aa2169f6a60de1501bd57a1e2f657.jpg


Nope!
 

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txlonghorn1989

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I noticed that right off the bat and thought "I've never noticed that before. Might just be that maker, at that period". Definitely interesting. I wonder if it could have slipped past QC?
 

ALTEREGO

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Not any expert, but if it were mine, I’d look at it, say “ crud how did I miss that”, and bolt it down anyway. I’m not doing anything that critical. The top of the jaws match, it would do what I need.

Thank you RTM, I did notice the jaws but... the price was just right and it will work for what I need so...


Thanks Outlaw!

I noticed that right off the bat and thought "I've never noticed that before. Might just be that maker, at that period". Definitely interesting. I wonder if it could have slipped past QC?

TXLH, I don't have a lot of experience with vises but in my limited experience I had not seen something like this before. I realized there was something off with the jaws when I got it but I figured it would work for what I needed.

Looks like they Johnny Cashed it.---One piece at a time.---But I agree with Outlaw.---USE IT.


VA.GROUSEMAN hahaha never heard "Johny Cashed" in this context before hahaha

Agreed, I will use it until it breaks on me...
 

Outlawmws

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VA.GROUSEMAN hahaha never heard "Johny Cashed" in this context before hahaha

Agreed, I will use it until it breaks on me...

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/18cW_yHo3PY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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ALTEREGO

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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/18cW_yHo3PY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

HA HA HA HA HA! Love it!

I get it now, sounds about right!

Now I'm totally into my Johnny Cash vise!



♫♪♪ Ugh!, what Year is the vise?

Well, It's a '49, '50, '51, '52, '53, '54, '55, '56
'57, '58' 59' Yost bench vise...

It's a '60, '61, '62, '63, '64, '65, '66, '67
'68, '69, '70 Yost bench vise... ♫♪♪

 

Z3K3Y

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Whats the suggested product to keep bare metal shiny? Im planning on painting this, but wanting to keep the areas in red bare metal (and shiny if possible).
Im in Canada and not everything is available without crazy shipping prices. so a few suggestions are welcome and ill see what i can find. Thanks in advance to all you great ladies and gents.
 

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pyrostick1

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My father in law machined this bad boy up for me, fits like a glove. bf84c1a464c1493b803ebfa20657c92c.jpgaea1901dcd5d88aca85abd87db0dcb5b.jpgef134df6a09b3d7303e617cb8b6b116d.jpg

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pyrostick1

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He has been working in a machine shop for 40 years now, unbelievable the stuff he can make! He did in fact use stainless.

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Shiftless

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Appreciate it while you can.
My FIL, long gone now, could do the same. He was a lifelong machinist with his last job working for a major oil company as a precision machinist often working on one of a kind projects for the scientists at the research lab. He made custom parts all the time.
I have some of his tools.
 
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CHRIII

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Jun 12, 2020
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NE TN
I'm making progress on restoring my father's Reed 2C. Current and before pictures are attached.

I cleaned up the old lubricants and wire wheeled it. Finally broke down and bought some Evapro Rust and soaked it. That stuff is expensive, but it really works well! Still got some work to do on it before I see how boiled linseed oil will look.

I want to clean up the main screw handle (and hockey puck) and the swivel lock nut and handle, but I'm not interested in a mirror finish. I could use the BLO on them, but would like them to contrast with the rest of the vise. What finish(es) are typically used to keep the rust at bay and let the bare metal show?

Thanks for the wisdom.
 

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Adderall

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Does anyone know of a good source for a Rock Island 594 sized main screw with the big meatball end? A friend pointed me to a stash of Morgans and Rock Islands for sale. They're in great shape but the Rock has an oddball, home made handle and screw, or just a miss fit.20200904_164012.jpeg20200906_181142.jpeg

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Adderall

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I'm making progress on restoring my father's Reed 2C. Current and before pictures are attached.

I cleaned up the old lubricants and wire wheeled it. Finally broke down and bought some Evapro Rust and soaked it. That stuff is expensive, but it really works well! Still got some work to do on it before I see how boiled linseed oil will look.

I want to clean up the main screw handle (and hockey puck) and the swivel lock nut and handle, but I'm not interested in a mirror finish. I could use the BLO on them, but would like them to contrast with the rest of the vise. What finish(es) are typically used to keep the rust at bay and let the bare metal show?

Thanks for the wisdom.
I've seen this posted here many times. The pictures of vises from users who did the process right are amazing.
https://sculptnouveau.com/products/metal-oil

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RedRover

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Sep 8, 2020
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I am rebuilding a PowrKraft 84-3-5445 and need to know if you have any ideas on where to get jaw replacements or what might work? The look to be 5"wide,with 1"OC from either side and 13/16" tall. Any ideas on what might fit? Thanks in advance for the help.
 
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txlonghorn1989

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I am rebuilding a PowrKraft 84-3-5445 and need to know if you have any ideas on where to get jaw replacements or what might work? The look to be 5"wide,with 1"OC from either side and 13/16" tall. Any ideas on what might fit? Thanks in advance for the help.

Wasn't PowrKraft a Montgomery Wards brand? Have you figured out who made the vise for MW? Pics are your friends and we like pics as well.
 

LesserSon

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I think, unless RR uses an outside photo hosting site and embeds photo links into his post, he will have to make 5 posts before he can upload photos.
I think most of us forget that limitation quickly, because it is so quickly remedied.
 

LesserSon

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Johnson's paste wax, Gun oil, lots of products. Paste wax has an advantage of not being sticky/wet, so stays cleaner.

Whats the suggested product to keep bare metal shiny? Im planning on painting this, but wanting to keep the areas in red bare metal (and shiny if possible).
Im in Canada and not everything is available without crazy shipping prices. so a few suggestions are welcome and ill see what i can find. Thanks in advance to all you great ladies and gents.

Personally, I think it is a mistake trying to keep steel shiny, akin to sweeping the sand off the beach (with apologies to Lewis Carroll).
We live on a planet with an atmosphere of nearly 20% oxygen. Further, the two locations on the vise you want to protect are also the places of greatest abrasion. Even clear epoxy cannot stand up to nature indefinitely. Realistically, oxygen is going to get to your iron.
Iron goes through multiple oxidation states, and they are not all bad. Particularly, Fe3O4 (magnetite) is a lovely dark gray which does not expand the way red rust (hematite) does, into a crusty mess. If the underlying steel is polished, magnetite will shine, too. It’s what you’re seeing when you look at a “blued” gun barrel. Because it is slightly porous, keeping a film of oil (or wax, or whatever) on it is not as impossible as bare bright steel. In that way, it actually helps to prevent/retard oxidation to red rust (an occasional wipe of oil and buffing of any rust before it gets a foothold is key). With that kind of light maintenance, your vise will last for generations. If you “seal” bright steel, it will rust under the sealant. Then you will grind it off and reseal it, ad infinitum, each time removing more of the metal. It won’t last as long, and it will only look good for short periods of time.
Just my 2 cents.
 

PierceA

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Aug 6, 2020
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SE Michigan
Adderal: any good machinist can make you a leadscrew. I'd check around on the various vise threads here and see what the handle and main screw head looked like on the Rock island vises of the same model and vintage as your's.
By the way, if the price is right, just buy them.. if the vise is otherwise in good condition finding or making a more correct main screw is minor.
If it were mine, and the threads and main nut were not worn, I'd make a new head for the main screw and pin it and weld it to the existing threaded screw. An easy fix.

Lesser Son: I like the idea of blueing a handle or main screw head. as well as maybe the swivel lock nut/handle if they are polished. I just wonder how the 'blue' will look next to either natural iron with BLO on it. or in contrast to some painted colors. I have plenty of 'cold blueing' solution, I might give it a try soon.

PierceA.
 

Fretters

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Whats the suggested product to keep bare metal shiny? Im planning on painting this, but wanting to keep the areas in red bare metal (and shiny if possible).
Im in Canada and not everything is available without crazy shipping prices. so a few suggestions are welcome and ill see what i can find. Thanks in advance to all you great ladies and gents.

A beeswax mix/paste will work well. Easily reapplied if needed.
 

CentenIJ

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May 11, 2020
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For anyone wanting the rubber washers for Vise handles, the Wilton part number is 9055031.

IMG_3017.jpg
 

Fretters

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Frett's back! (and 4 posts away fro 4K posts!)

3 now. :D Can't let you lot have it too easy. You've had way too much of a peaceful break from me as it is. :D

I'll be glad when I finally get back to doing some repairs, restorations etc. All of the vices & lathes came with me, so still plenty left to work on. Won't be able to set a tank up here though, so derusting is going to be my achilles heel.
 

Shiftless

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Yeah,...welcome back Fretters!

Sorry you can’t run an e-tank anymore? Why not?

You can always use Evaporust like many of us over here do.
 

Fretters

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Yeah,...welcome back Fretters!

Sorry you can’t run an e-tank anymore? Why not?

You can always use Evaporust like many of us over here do.

Nowhere I can put one near an electric supply. Neighbours might not be too happy seeing a derusting tank shoved somewhere either. :D The place I live now is a lot different. Not got a large garden & a separate workshop with mains/power anymore.
 
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tjpavlov

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So I’ve started to take apart my new Althol 614. I inherited this from my wife’s grandfather. I managed to get the dynamic jaw off and flipped it over, expecting to find the spring and cotter pin setup on the main screw. What I found is this pretty big slotted screw. I’m assuming that undoing that will let the handle and screw out from the jaw.

Anyone have any advice for me? This is my first vise restoration and I don’t want to break anything since it’s kind of a family heirloom.

My plan is to disassemble, degrease and then soak in evaporust. Eventually give it a new coat of paint.
 

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GETRIDAONE

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You are correct in your guess on removal of the screw. I would put some penetrate on it and soak for a bit. The last thing you want to do is break the head off the screw. Good luck with the restoration and post pictures when done.
 

tjpavlov

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You are correct in your guess on removal of the screw. I would put some penetrate on it and soak for a bit. The last thing you want to do is break the head off the screw. Good luck with the restoration and post pictures when done.

Thanks! Is anyone familiar with this design from Athol? I’ve been scouring garage journal and have found some interesting info on Athol vises. I’m trying to date this one. Anyone have an idea of whether this screw indicates the age of the vise?
 

GETRIDAONE

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From the files of Fierljeppen, resident vise info expert.
Looks like yours is the second type, so maybe the 30's ?
 

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Shiftless

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tj:
Here is a detailed photo of my Athol 214. It has the same shape bench bolt downs as yours so it’s the same model from the same era. I seem to recall that I used a right angle screwdriver to remove it. Good advice from Getridaone to use penetrating oil first so you don’t risk stripping the head.

Here is a pic of mine after it got all cleaned up and repainted. I used Rustoleum flat soft iron.
 

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tjpavlov

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Shiftless--Thanks for the inspiration photo. Your restoration turned out great! I think it's interesting that both of our vises have the company information in a different spot than the picture in the post above.

Thanks to all for the advice. This is my first vise restoration and I am getting excited about it. I am spraying that screw with Blaster a couple of times a day. I'll take a crack at turning it this weekend.

Here's my plan:
1. Fully disassembly and clean with a wire brush and Grez Off.
2. Drop all parts into evaporust for a day or two.
3. Rinse and dry.
4. Wire wheel (with my drill since I don't own a grinder) the handle, knob, jaws and slide.
5. Paint the rest of the surfaces and Johnson paste wax on the slide and handles
6. Lube and reassemble.

Anybody have any thoughts or advice on this plan? How soon after I pull it out of the evaporust bath should I paint it? I'm concerned about flash rust.

Sorry for all of the questions, but I know that you guys have the answers!
 

Shiftless

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Tj :
Thanks for the compliment. I’ve done several vises with that paint.
Your plan is good.
As far as flash rust is concerned, when I use Evaporust prior to painting, I scrub off the black residue with a brass wire brush under running water, then dry the parts with an old towel and immediately use an electric heat gun to dry off any moisture. If compressed air is handy, you can hit the parts with an air blow gun first, but I fell that the extra heat of the heat gun is the final step in getting cast iron thoroughly dry.
Right after the parts are dry I apply primer. After the primer is dry you can take your time with final finish painting or paint right away depending on instructions for your paint system. I like Rustoleum and Modern Masters. But there are many other paints that are excellent.
 

tjpavlov

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Okay so I’ve got this whole thing apart! I’ve started to spray it with Grez-off and scrub it like crazy. It’s amazing how much stuff is coming off what seemed like a clean vise. I don’t have any simple green but how would just soapy water do for a good soaking? I have plenty of car wash soap. I was thinking that and overnight soak would help the cleanup go easier. Any thoughts?
 

Outlawmws

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Simple Green is good. but I've recently changed over to Grezoff. Amazing stuff - I'm now using it for car parts (where I had switched over to SG from Solvents)

Dishwasher detergent also works great, HOWEVER wear gloves its HARD on your skin...
 

tjpavlov

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Simple Green is good. but I've recently changed over to Grezoff. Amazing stuff - I'm now using it for car parts (where I had switched over to SG from Solvents)

Dishwasher detergent also works great, HOWEVER wear gloves its HARD on your skin...

Thanks! I actually bought a bottle of Grez-Off on your recommendation. I soaked all of the parts in a five gallon bucket filled with McGuires Gold Glass car wash. It did seem to loosen up a lot of the grime. I pulled it out and hosed the parts down and lightly did them with a wire wheel. Everything is soaking in Evaporust for the night. I didn’t have quite enough to submerge everything so I covered some parts in Evaporust soaked paper towels and wrapped them in Saran Wrap. We will see how that goes.

Can’t thank you all enough for all of the help and advice!
 
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