Outlawmws
Well-known member
Awesome stand Joe! and I love what you did with the Heuer!
Parker Catalog #6
The 22x page says parts are interchangeable with Superior parts.
akasrick
I recently restored this Heuer Front vise. Made in Germany between 1936 and 1940 (an interesting time to say the least) these Heuer Vises are just gorgeous tools.
First they are fully forged, not cast, so they ring like a bell and are as strong as hell. The jaws aren't cast in place, they are just part of the forged dynamic jaw.
The spindle handle is held in place with 15 6mm ball bearing, nothing else.
This model Heuer has a solid forged round dynamic jaw base that is 1.5" in diameter. Within the base of the static body is a cut out (front and back) which is designed to accommodate a strip of F5 felt (yeah its a thing...I took two days learning all about felt). The felt is soaked in my synthetic grease and it wipes and lubricates the slide as the vise opens and shuts , not allowing contaminants to enter the body cavity.
These are GREAT vises and while they don't have the heft of a 6" Athol, because they are forged, they do not need the weight for strength.
Is the Parker catalog #6 available online?

Even for a large sum of money It would be hard for me to part with that stand,It being adjustable and antique also makes It pretty hard to replace,which practical use would be considered . But that's just my view on some things that's hard replaceable.
Thanks for posting that link.
I like comic understatement... ( a FEW hours...)![]()
Mary Ann all the way!
Anyone know anything about these? Yale 150. Czech I understand. Are the lockdown bolts correct? Basically just carriage bolts securing it to the base. How does the screw come out? Thanks!
Has anyone run across a current place/person that makes or sells the foil/aluminum logo plates for the older Wilton series? I have a 1980 746 Machinist vise and I think it was one of the Napa Balkamp ones made by Wilton... The finish on the vise appears to have been gray...

That's a split collar, and should also have set screw(s) to hold it...
And yes after the set screw is out, then tap it CCW.

That would be because your pics don't show them, so you will have to, won't you?
Amazing! What is the purpose of the device on top, just behind the fixed jaw? And why such a small anvil on the top end, any guesses?
I'm starting to realize what league the serious vise collectors are playing in............
Bill S
Kinda of mic drop here!! You don't say which 1 you have Joe?
Lots written on York here. There’s a York History thread and a York Vice Restorations thread. Essentially what you have is a proto-Wilton (not Proto the manufacturer!). Lots to discover about those.
I too have a York 150, and an 80, and a 100.
Matthew A.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
dp, This site sells those foil labels. they actually are vinyl stickers. Look HERE.
Hey guys, I have been working with the new owner ( Mallory) and Mary the Machinist for the last three months and did not realize how hard it was to build vise parts. I am teaching Mary the right way to build jaws and Mallory the right way to treat customers. I'll add the sites to my sig line if anyone needs vise parts. I wish both girls the best of luck. Maybe I can talk Mallory in to giving GJ members a discount.
ChefRex:
That split nut looks damaged to me. The red arrow points to the area I’d be concerned about. It’s risky to take that out.
The black arrow points to what I’d expect to see on a split nut.
Maybe you don’t REALLY need to disassemble it to clean it up. If that split nut falls apart, I don’t know where you’d get a replacement.
I had a Reed once with that split nut arrangement. The previous owner evidently had trouble so he just welded it up tight. Not cool!
I had concern of that area, looks like someone tried to remove it without removing the set screw as all 4 points are rounded over.
I'll assess it better tonight and move accordingly
I may have to live with some freeplay.
