It’s a personal taste thing. I prefer vertical but most of my customers go with horizontal. The vertical is more expensive, requires some extra attention to the concrete and takes longer.
It is a bit stiffer because more screws will be installed.
We usually form a notch in the concrete for the siding to go below the top of the slab so there is no water intrusion. On horizontal we install a base flashing.
If they told you to make the slab bigger than the building you need to have a conversation about how it really is going to be done.
The company should provide some basic concrete details including the actual building size. I presume we are talking about a tube steel building. With the building at the edge of the slab angle clips will be required to move the anchors away from the edge so they don’t blow out the concrete.
Will there be permits required? Will the company provide stamped foundation plans?
My steel building kit was delivered July 10. Crew has been working since then and still not done. If you can get it done in a day, more power to you.
Somehow it has not been made clear to the OP the fact that the rain running down the siding needs to continue down the side of the slab... NUT run onto the level top of the slab.
I do not know how it is done, but the water to inside of building seems to be the main complaint of these building owners.
And "Caulk it" is not the answer... Rather the siding has to somehow direct ALL rain to dirt.
Someone here in the know here should clarify.
Marc
Somehow it has not been made clear to the OP the fact that the rain running down the siding needs to continue down the side of the slab... NUT run onto the level top of the slab.
I do not know how it is done, but the water to inside of building seems to be the main complaint of these building owners.
And "Caulk it" is not the answer... Rather the siding has to somehow direct ALL rain to dirt.
Someone here in the know here should clarify.
Marc
As Readhead stated, with the vertical siding, a "notch" (picture a 1-1/2" wide x 3-1/2" high void) is formed into the slab at the perimeter which allows the siding to terminate below the floor line. Correctly installed, the siding would terminate 1/4" above the bottom of the notch to prevent premature rusting of the ends.
I hope you have a fixed erecting price.
I'm prepping a 20X20 pad to put a storage building on. ... A steel building is cheaper and they'll have it set up in a day ...
My steel building kit was delivered July 10. Crew has been working since then and still not done. If you can get it done in a day, more power to you.
Only 3500 sq-ft but I think they underestimated extra time ... I think this was still a 4-5 week job.
I dunno... I feel like a 400 square foot building might go up faster than a 3,500 square foot building.
and the jack's at eagle and the person who sold me my building messed me up back in 2008 and I definitely will not use that company for my 30x60 that I'm going to do. So the only way to really remedy my situation now is to keep caulking it ever so often I guess. I've been trying different things over the years and have used better and better each time.It is a bit stiffer because more screws will be installed.
We usually form a notch in the concrete for the siding to go below the top of the slab so there is no water intrusion. On horizontal we install a base flashing.
If they told you to make the slab bigger than the building you need to have a conversation about how it really is going to be done.