I purchased a resin shed that I need to get up before winter. The actual shed construction should not be difficult-but I need some advice on the platform. The area is on a slight slope. my plan was to level it on CMU's placed directly on the dirt but due to the size I want to avoid any long term issues. I have started to to put together my parts list in the attached. I am now wondering if I should buy a post hole digger and some sonotubes and use those in place of the blocks. There will be no heavy equipment or vehicles in the shed. Any ideas on which would work best or any other options aside from having a pad poured?
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Foundation advice for 11x26" lifetime shed
- Thread starter malt0se
- Start date
Take this for what it's worth. I bought a house in 2019 that came with a 12x16' or so stick-built wood shed that has been in place for at least 20 years now. It sits on leveled cinder blocks with an asphalt shingle between the block and the 4x4 bottom rails. The front 4x4 is actually in full contact with dirt as material settled in over the years to fill the gap between the 4x4 and the asphalt driveway. It's done well considering the freezing, thawing, rain, and humidity of the mid-atlantic region.
Because of what I see with this shed, I'd advise you to not overthink the topic. Dig out the organic layer of dirt and lay the block in and level. Dirt->solid block or paver->cinder block->asphalt shingle->shed
A poured slab is extreme overkill for your resin shed. But this is GJ so if a slab is what you want, you'll need to pour it at least 6" thick with rebar and radiant heating.
Because of what I see with this shed, I'd advise you to not overthink the topic. Dig out the organic layer of dirt and lay the block in and level. Dirt->solid block or paver->cinder block->asphalt shingle->shed
A poured slab is extreme overkill for your resin shed. But this is GJ so if a slab is what you want, you'll need to pour it at least 6" thick with rebar and radiant heating.
I did read that using cinder blocks (the standard ones with the two hollow sections) shouldnt be used and instead the solid blocks should be used. my concern is getting it set up and then having one of the center sections fail that i am unable to reach.Take this for what it's worth. I bought a house in 2019 that came with a 12x16' or so stick-built wood shed that has been in place for at least 20 years now. It sits on leveled cinder blocks with an asphalt shingle between the block and the 4x4 bottom rails. The front 4x4 is actually in full contact with dirt as material settled in over the years to fill the gap between the 4x4 and the asphalt driveway. It's done well considering the freezing, thawing, rain, and humidity of the mid-atlantic region.
Because of what I see with this shed, I'd advise you to not overthink the topic. Dig out the organic layer of dirt and lay the block in and level. Dirt->solid block or paver->cinder block->asphalt shingle->shed
A poured slab is extreme overkill for your resin shed. But this is GJ so if a slab is what you want, you'll need to pour it at least 6" thick with rebar and radiant heating.
captain14
Well-known member
This is what my dad used on his shed and we replicates the process in my shed two years later for stick framed shed. Placed the blocks, level them and build your platform and shed on top.
We are looking at 27 and 28 years old without problems.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-7-i...VEo_ICh2YrACcEAQYASABEgIha_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
We are looking at 27 and 28 years old without problems.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-7-i...VEo_ICh2YrACcEAQYASABEgIha_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds