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Electrician Used 10-30 Outlet for Compressor

packer96

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I just had my 24x24 garage built last month. The electrician who installed everything installed a 10-30r in my garage for my 60gallon air compressor. He then hooked up a 10-30p to to the compressor so I could plug it in. After doing some more research, I don't think he used the right NEMA type plug and receptacle. The compressor has 2 hot leads and a ground. The 10-30 is meant for 2 hot and a neutral. Is this even legal to use 10-30 on a new construction, or does that only pertain to stoves and dryers? Shouldn't he have used the 6-30 which is meant for 2 hots and a ground? It still works but I'm thinking he must of hooked the ground wire to neutral. The inspector just opened the breaker panel, looked around and said all good.
 
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nafterclifen

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I'm not an expert but you are right - I would have used a 6-30 to be code compliant. I also would have expected the inspector to say something.

Functionally, you're OK if he wired two hots and a ground from panel to the 10-30r. But that doesn't mean it's correct.
 
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packer96

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Thanks. I just remembered, he installed this the day after the inspector came. No one has been back since. I think I may have to call the city.
 

pattenp

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There is no code issue using a 10-30 vs. a 6-30. The compressor just doesn't use a neutral. The code issue is if the compressor is more than 2hp because the nema 30A outlet and plug are rated up to 2hp.

EDIT: I had nema type 14 in my head, so I correct what I said about the type 10 because that is an old style ungrounded outlet. I say the type 10 is wrong for this use.
sberry's below comment made the light come on.
 
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sberry

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I am not sure the 10 would be legal either, its not listed for it. Not sure where a guy could even use it unless it was to replace an old one. I am not sure how shook up I might get over it, as the man sort of said/indicated,,, how many hp is the comp?
 

nadogail

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IMHO, If the 10-30 receptacle is wired from a main service panel the Neutral and Ground would be terminated to the same point; if the 10-30 is connected to a Sub Panel, the Neutral and Ground are isolated.

My answer to your question is "It Depends".

Any advice or opinions you take from me are guaranteed to be worth exactly what you have paid me.
 

csp

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How many HP is the motor on your 60gallon compressor? That's where your concern should be focused.
 

wyliesdiesels

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wrong plug and receptacle especially if connected to a subpanel

whats the HP rating on motor nameplate?

how far away is the compressor from the panel and is in within sight of the panel?
 

Bert_

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NEMA 10 ? The electrician must have been trying to use up some REALLY OLD STOCK !

Electrical supplier I get most stuff from stocks more 10-50's than 6-50's.

I install plenty of 10-50's on farms because that's what's all the equipment has already. Installed a couple for a buddy and now he bought a used truck auger. Guess what plug is on it? 10-50.

I wire them with a green wire.
 

alfredeneuman

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If it's in the main panel rather than a sub you could strip the white insulation for it's entire exposed length in the boxes,panels,etc. It will identify the wire as a ground, and you could use a 6-30
Edit: If it's in a subpanel you'll have to move the stripped neutral from the neutral bar to a ground bar or lug.
 
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packer96

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The compressor is the Kobalt 60gal model #XC602000. It has 3.7hp motor. I think he used 10/2 wire from the breaker to the outlet. I’m gonna look at it closer tomorrow when I get out of work.
 
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packer96

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Why in the world would you do that to yourself...

At least call from a payphone as an anonymous citizen if you must

I don’t quite get this one. The electrician, who told me he had all the permits, possibly installed something not quite to code and I should make an anonoymous call? He’s either coming back to fix it or paying for someone else to. The general contractor will make sure or else he won’t use this electrician anymore. I might call my contractor first and see what he says.
 
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liliysdad

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I don’t quite get this one. The electrician, who told me he had all the permits, possibly installed something not quite to code and I should make an anonoymous call? He’s either coming back to fix it or paying for someone else to. The general contractor will make sure or else he won’t use this electrician anymore. I might call my contractor first and see what he says.

Good God, man. Wired a little tight, are we?
 

rpcraft

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Depends on the amps the compressor pulls down ultimately I would think. I have a similar unit that has the same horsepower and under start up load it pulls down 18 amps and settles to 15 while running. The wire on my inspected setup was 10 gauge orange coated conductor and the inspector had no issues with it. As long as the wire load and plug load are not exceeded I am not certain what the issue is? I wouldn't call the city and report it, but if you are that worried call an electrician (or the one you used) and ask him to rectify it or explain it.
 

liliysdad

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Seems the easy solution would be to contact the guy who wired it, as was mentioned in the post above, and express your concerns like an adult....not calling the city and snitching someone out.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Depends on the amps the compressor pulls down ultimately I would think. I have a similar unit that has the same horsepower and under start up load it pulls down 18 amps and settles to 15 while running. The wire on my inspected setup was 10 gauge orange coated conductor and the inspector had no issues with it. As long as the wire load and plug load are not exceeded I am not certain what the issue is? I wouldn't call the city and report it, but if you are that worried call an electrician (or the one you used) and ask him to rectify it or explain it.

And that would not be up to code. Plug and receptacle need to be rated for the same or greater HP as he motor.
 

dscheidt

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As long as the wire load and plug load are not exceeded I am not certain what the issue is?

The issue is the electrician installed a non-grounded receptacle, which hasn't been permitted for decades under the NEC. He's supposed to be a professional, is supposed to have had a permit, and is supposed to have followed code. The OP is well justified in being upset that his electrician was a knucklehead.
 

dscheidt

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The general contractor will make sure or else he won’t use this electrician anymore. I might call my contractor first and see what he says.

This is exactly what you're paying the GC for. His sub screwed up, he gets to make it right.
 

liliysdad

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Folks get wound up about a lot of stuff that, in the end, just doesn't matter.
 

pattenp

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The compressor is the Kobalt 60gal model #XC602000. It has 3.7hp motor. I think he used 10/2 wire from the breaker to the outlet. I’m gonna look at it closer tomorrow when I get out of work.

You need to look at the actual data label on the motor for the HP. I have a Kobalt 60gal and it says on the tank label 3.5 running HP but the motor data label says HP is SPL which just means it's a special motor for the compressor. The running amps on the motor label says 16A which is slightly under 3HP by the NEC table 430.248. The HP rating on plugs and outlets are relating to the plug being used as a disconnect, pulling the plug to disconnect a large motor while under load could be dangerous because of the possible arc flash.
 

liliysdad

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I’m thinking safe and proper electrical work does in fact matter.


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"Not to code" does not automatically indicate unsafe. There is "correct," and there is "good enough," and "good enough" is usually just that.

That being said, I agree the electrician should have wired it to code....but the appropriate response would be to find out why he did it that way, and offer him the chance to fix it if need be.....not call the city and tattle, and try to get the guys meal ticket revoked.
 

nafterclifen

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"Not to code" does not automatically indicate unsafe. There is "correct," and there is "good enough," and "good enough" is usually just that.

That being said, I agree the electrician should have wired it to code....but the appropriate response would be to find out why he did it that way, and offer him the chance to fix it if need be.....not call the city and tattle, and try to get the guys meal ticket revoked.

So a "professional" blatantly does something intentional, NOT by mistake, and you want to offer him a chance to fix it? Yea, ok - NO.

Do it right or get fired, simple. Too many people accept sub-standard work which is why **** like this happens. Because they know they could probably get away with it.
 

wyliesdiesels

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"Not to code" does not automatically indicate unsafe. There is "correct," and there is "good enough," and "good enough" is usually just that.

That being said, I agree the electrician should have wired it to code....but the appropriate response would be to find out why he did it that way, and offer him the chance to fix it if need be.....not call the city and tattle, and try to get the guys meal ticket revoked.

Your comment is moot for the topic at hand.

Better read up on why its NOT safe to use a plug and receptacle that is not rated for the proper HP.
 

sberry

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I really doubt if arc flash is that big a deal and lots of the 30 use the same stabs as the 50,,, but they HP rated due to the high start currents.
 
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packer96

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OK, first off I do not consider myself a “taddle tail”. If I do contact the city it will be to ask if they allow 10-30 outlets in new constructions. If they say yes, no harm no foul. They say no, at that point it’s just easier for me to change it than to get in a ******* match.
However, this is the same electrician my contractor wants to use when he remodels my bathroom next month. If he knowingly, or unknowingly for that matter, installed the incorrect outlet in my garage, I will ask my contractor to utilize a different electrician. If he did that in your garage, would you let him rewire your new bathroom?


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ssdave

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OK, first off I do not consider myself a “taddle tail”. If I do contact the city it will be to ask if they allow 10-30 outlets in new constructions. If they say yes, no harm no foul. They say no, at that point it’s just easier for me to change it than to get in a ******* match.
However, this is the same electrician my contractor wants to use when he remodels my bathroom next month. If he knowingly, or unknowingly for that matter, installed the incorrect outlet in my garage, I will ask my contractor to utilize a different electrician. If he did that in your garage, would you let him rewire your new bathroom?


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Even better reason to ask why he did what he did. That will give you some insight into if you should hire him again.

The city will just tell you no, and point out that it was installed AFTER their inspection. They're never going to tell you they allow using the incorrect and under-rated receptacle.

If I was to conjecture, the electrician thought he was doing you a favor, by wiring for an obsolete piece of equipment that was set up for that plug. When he found out it wasn't, he gave you a plug to match what he had installed.

Or, he isn't the guy that should be wiring your stuff.

Way to get a better idea of what's right, is to talk to him.
 
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