Heat options for new shop

[ND-Living09]

Hello everyone I just purchased a property that has a 60x40 pole barn on it. Eventually I will be building a house on it also. The walls are around 14 feet tall and the peak is 25’ without a barrier ceiling so you can see up through the rafters. As of now it has a concrete floor with a small single car garage door on one end and a large 13’ door on the other with a service door and no windows. I am wondering on what would be best option to heat it. It isn’t insulated but will spray foam it before heating. It has electricity but Isn’t piped for LP or gas yet but I can if I need to. I live in the very northwest corner of North Dakota so it gets really cold here in the winter and would like to keep it around 45-50 when not using and warm as needed so it’s comfortable when I am working. Just trying to find out what my options are before making a final decision.
Thanks.

 

[VtecGSR95]

Well,

it sounds like in floor heat is out since your floor is poured.

You can do overhead radiant tube heat, forced air furnace with ducting (or not), or a hanging unit heater.

I have a 40x64 with 16' ceilings, and 5" open cell foam in the walls, and about to blow in R-49 cellulose in the attic. I am using a 200,000 BTU Modine hanging unit heater. I am going to maintain 55-60 degrees, and bump it to 70 when I am working in there. I thought real hard about the radiant tube heat, but I like warm air, not warm objects......everyone has an opinion on that one. Floor heat was not in my budget.....so this will have to work! I plan to add a mini split at some point, that will cool it down, and cover the heating down to a certain point......then the heater will kick in.

I would say get insulated first.......then worry about heat. I would foam that place, and if money is tight, you could use a salamander or something to get you by this year......because the insulation is going to be the key here. No insulation, I dont think you'll be able to heat it well with anything.

 

[finn]

Personally, I would select and install the heating device before insulating, as you have to pierce the Wall or ceiling for the propane or other fuel, and for the combustion exhaust vent.

70 degrees is, for me, excessive when working. Sitting around, yes, but the low sixties is better for me.

Many hanging furnaces require a minimum thermostat setting of 50 to minimize condensation damage to the heat exchanger. Stainless heat exchangers are available on some models, at a cost, and allow operation closer to the freeze point for fuel savings during periods of inactivity.

 

[Jackfre]

Are you intending to divide the space at all?

 

[Wrench97]

Do you have a supply of waste oil?

 

[Shop Specialties]

I would wait until the foam is sprayed then install the heater. I would use the same heat source for home/shop. Time to do some math and compare the cost of trenching in a NG line and the monthly fees associated with that. Then look at 1 big propane tank or 2 smaller ones. Buying the tank vs leasing from the local company.

 

[Bert_]

Radiant tube heaters are great for a building like that. Very comfortable and more economical than forced air.

 

[ND-Living09]

I believe I’m going to keep it as one large area and I do not have any waste oil. I talked to a spray foam contractor today and he estimated it would cost about $16,500.00 to spray foam the walls and ceiling with 3” of R21. So far leaning towards the radiant heater, I just have a hard time thinking one forced air heater in the corner would be good for the whole shop.

 

[Shop Specialties]

I believe I’m going to keep it as one large area and I do not have any waste oil. I talked to a spray foam contractor today and he estimated it would cost about $16,500.00 to spray foam the walls and ceiling with 3” of R21. So far leaning towards the radiant heater, I just have a hard time thinking one forced air heater in the corner would be good for the whole shop.

I have been doing nothing but heating for coming up on 30 years here in Montana and 99% of the commercial shops I have done with 1 heater. As long as the heater is properly sized and mounted in a good spot you will be more than fine. Install a few ceiling fans down the center turning slowly will help keep the heat even.

 

[nadogail]

Do you have a supply of waste oil?

IMHO, waste oil is probably the most economic source of fuel you can find. In many areas it’s a problem for the garages and service stations. They will be glad to get it hauled away by a responsible party.

 

[ND-Living09]

I have been doing nothing but heating for coming up on 30 years here in Montana and 99% of the commercial shops I have done with 1 heater. As long as the heater is properly sized and mounted in a good spot you will be more than fine. Install a few ceiling fans down the center turning slowly will help keep the heat even.

So do you prefer the forced air over the radiant tubes??

 

[Shop Specialties]

So do you prefer the forced air over the radiant tubes??

Yes I do. Personally I am not big on overhead radiant tubes. I do not like the real estate they take up and the only thing I want above my head is lights, roof, ceiling fan. They have been in my way more times than I can remember. I have seen bad installs where trucks, tractors, cars get damaged.

 

[Sureshot]

I would finish the ceiling and put blow in cellulose to R40 or better then do fiberglass bats on the walls to R20 or better depending on how you will finish the inside walls. Spend the money on insulation rather than fuel. I grew up 70 miles north of Williston and had a 42x60x16 with 24x24x13 addition but put floor heat. I did have to use a dirt floor for a year and used a single hanging heater in a corner and kept the shop warm easily. I had a radiant heater in the first garage I built(26x26x11) and it was ok but made the air extremely dry in the winter. I would get a nose bleed within a minute going in there in the dead of winter.

 

[Bert_]

Yes I do. Personally I am not big on overhead radiant tubes. I do not like the real estate they take up and the only thing I want above my head is lights, roof, ceiling fan. They have been in my way more times than I can remember. I have seen bad installs where trucks, tractors, cars get damaged.

I'm surprised to hear that. Most people I have talked to prefer the tube heater. I know I like them.

 

[Shop Specialties]

I'm surprised to hear that. Most people I have talked to prefer the tube heater. I know I like them.

My business is not in the normal category so we have some different results than the usual. I would say 95% of my business is in existing shops where there is already a heating system. So we have great comparisons and mine always comes out on top. We all like different things and if you are happy then all is good.

 

[theoldwizard1]

... I just purchased a property that has a 60x40 pole barn on it. ...The walls are around 14 feet tall and the peak is 25’ without a barrier ceiling so you can see up through the rafters. As of now it has a concrete floor with a small single car garage door on one end and a large 13’ door on the other with a service door and no windows. I am wondering on what would be best option to heat it. It isn’t insulated but will spray foam it before heating.

You will go broke applying enough spray foam to make that barn hold heat !

... would like to keep it around 45-50 when not using and warm as needed so it’s comfortable when I am working...

Some people find 50s a comfortable working temperature !

You should start with 2" of spray foam, but you need at least 12" fiberglass in the ceiling. 24" would be better. 6"-12" in the walls.

Have you though about dividing that space in to smaller areas ? Leave most of it with 2" of spray foam and unheated.

If you have any money left, then talk about heat.

NG and propane are about the same to install (assuming you have NG on the property). NG is cheaper BTUs. Forget anything else unless t=you are going to make some small spaces.