I have some work to do that needs to finish up neat and tidy. It looks like particle board with a thin woodgrain veneer finish. I have a 71/4" circular saw and a blade that is supposed to be smooth cut (small teeth like a handsaw) but have used it before and not too impressed. Is there a brand or type of blade anyone would recommend? Thanks!
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Clean Cut Saw Blade
- Thread starter Glemon
- Start date
Muggzy
Well-known member
Have you tried cutting from the back side so th blade is pulling the veneer towards the core instead of plucking the grain away? Or leaving abt 1/4"extra and taking a finish pass with a router?
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TuxThePenguin
Well-known member
Not sure the best blade, but clamp another piece of (sacrificial) wood on top of the veneer, as tightly as possible. No saw blade is likely to do a super clean cut on veneer otherwise in my opinion. Sorry if this doesn't answer the question as asked, but hopefully it might help.
More (and 'better') teeth usually give a 'better' quality cut.
On a 7 1/4" blade, I have some 40 tooth carbide-tipped Diablo blades made for 'smooth' cuts in plywood.
Like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-7-1-4-in-x-40-Teeth-Finish-Saw-Blade-D0740R/100017783
And like usual, you can clamp some backer/sacrificial boards to the piece that you are cutting to reduce splintering and chip-out on the cut line.
Or you can go and make a "zero clearance" insert or shoe plate to help too. Google that one.
https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/zero-clearance-insert-plywood-cutting/
If the veneer is only on one face of the board, then cut from the 'back' of the board so that the saw teeth enter INTO the veneer (so for a handheld circular saw have the 'good' face on the bottom, if on a table saw then have the 'good' face on the top).
On a 7 1/4" blade, I have some 40 tooth carbide-tipped Diablo blades made for 'smooth' cuts in plywood.
Like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-7-1-4-in-x-40-Teeth-Finish-Saw-Blade-D0740R/100017783
And like usual, you can clamp some backer/sacrificial boards to the piece that you are cutting to reduce splintering and chip-out on the cut line.
Or you can go and make a "zero clearance" insert or shoe plate to help too. Google that one.
https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/zero-clearance-insert-plywood-cutting/
If the veneer is only on one face of the board, then cut from the 'back' of the board so that the saw teeth enter INTO the veneer (so for a handheld circular saw have the 'good' face on the bottom, if on a table saw then have the 'good' face on the top).
c5greg
Active member
I use the 100 tooth version similar to the below on my 12" Miter saw with great results on veneered plywood:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IPHGA2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Supposed to be for veneered plywoods, melamine and laminates. Not cheap though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IPHGA2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Supposed to be for veneered plywoods, melamine and laminates. Not cheap though.
circular saws typically have a lot of radial slop in them, not conducive to nice finished cuts
cut from the backside or score with a knife just inside your cut line so any chips break off instead of splintering
cut from the backside or score with a knife just inside your cut line so any chips break off instead of splintering
More (and 'better') teeth usually give a 'better' quality cut.
On a 7 1/4" blade, I have some 40 tooth carbide-tipped Diablo blades made for 'smooth' cuts in plywood.
Like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-7-1-4-in-x-40-Teeth-Finish-Saw-Blade-D0740R/100017783
And like usual, you can clamp some backer/sacrificial boards to the piece that you are cutting to reduce splintering and chip-out on the cut line.
Or you can go and make a "zero clearance" insert or shoe plate to help too. Google that one.
https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/zero-clearance-insert-plywood-cutting/
If the veneer is only on one face of the board, then cut from the 'back' of the board so that the saw teeth enter INTO the veneer (so for a handheld circular saw have the 'good' face on the bottom, if on a table saw then have the 'good' face on the top).
This. Put painters tape on both side of where you are cutting. That will help keep any splintering down...peel it off slowly toward the cut edge.