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Atlas 618 Lathe - 6"

jransom

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Mar 4, 2015
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135
Hi guys, it's been a few years since I've been around here. Little ones take up a lot of my time and I have been focusing on other things ther than my machines and tools.

I just got this new project yesterday though and thought some of you may appreciate it. Not sure of the year yet and it seems to be in really solid shape. I'm fairly certain it was from the original owners estate (he was in his 90s) and while it is missing a few obvious things like the motor armature, UN-modified tail stock and some other items, what is there appears to be in great shape. It is all really gummed up from sitting for many years but when I turned it on for a minute it runs like a top, even with the totally wasted belt. All the knobs turn and move as they should, etc.

It came with a lot of pieces, some that I wont use however. There are some Atlas and Armstrong cutters, carbide bits, a little live center, a few small drill bit chucks, some original Craftsman calipers of some sort and some other things. The manual is there, an old book titled "Instruction Sheets For The General Shop - Electricity" book from 1932 is there and a very old wooden box that still has an Atlas label on one end that had a bunch of the pieces just sitting in it.

I'm not sure if I'll simply disassemble it, clean / re-lubricated and reassemble for use as it is or if I'll tear the whole thing down, give it all the Evaporust treatment and then repaint and reassemble. I really don't want to mess up the original sticker badges and such but I'd also like to stop the little amount of rust that is there.

All your opinions, ideas and comments are welcome. Here are some pictures for reference. Thanks for reading! -John
 

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jransom

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A few more pictures...
 

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bmwrd0

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I have the Craftsman version from '38 I believe.
49235882037_75162f267f_h.jpg

That is how it looked when I found it at a scrap yard, now it looks like this

50369123836_6077840d43_b.jpg

I didn't repaint, just cleaned. And any missing parts I picked up on eBay as I went along. I got it cheap enough that I was comfortable picking up what I needed as long as I didn't go past a certain total value, relative to what it is worth. If you are looking for more info, HobbyMachinist.com is great with these little lathes, they have a whole section on them. Most importantly, have fun with it.
 
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jransom

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Yes, thank you for the info! I'll head over there and see what I can find. I turned the cross slide until it came out of the brass collar at the end tonight and now I can't get it back in!

What is that set up on your machine? They grey part...

Thanks.
 
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jransom

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Thanks, I'll look into the barrel switch. Sounds like a good idea. It's okay to run this motor in reverse I presume?

Yeah, the tail stock modification is as smooth as it could be. The gentleman that owned it forever was an engineer/scientist at NASA, JPL, and a few others. That handle has three holes drilled in it to change the throw of it and all three function perfectly, no binding or anything.

Do these run 1/4' belts? the pulleys are tiny compared to my old Southbend drill press. From so research I've done a lot of people say they run 3/8" belts but that just seems too wide.

Thanks.
 

bmwrd0

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The grey machine mounted to the cross slide is a Palmgren milling attachment, sized for a 6" lathe, and on the motor is a Drum switch, which is the name you will need in order to search for one.

The directions for how to wire your motor for reversing are on the front of the tag in the pic (switch yellow leads), and all a drum switch does allow the motor to stop all connectivity before you throw it in reverse. You could do the same with an extra toggle switch also.
 
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jransom

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Great, I'll keep that in mind when I get to figuring that out at some point.

Does anyone know why the cross feed threaded shaft wont go back into the brass cross feed nut at the end under the little chip plate? Do I need to take something apart before it will start to thread back in?

Thanks guys.
 
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bmwrd0

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It sounds like the threads are not engaging. Either something is blocking it (chip of metal) or it is reaching it, or part of it is stripped. I would take everything apart to check the engagement visually. Carefull not to lose the gib screws and nuts.
 

Zmann

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that particular drum switch also lets you unscrew the lever and keeps the tool from unauthorized use
or something falling and hitting that switch. (happens twice that I know of to be exact lol)
mine is mounted on the gear case front so you do not have to reach over your spinning work while wearing a tie
 

bmwrd0

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Heh, I have a pic of my grandfather working a lathe in shop-coat and tie.

Mine is back behind the chuck so I don't accidentally knock it.
 
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jransom

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I took it apart and there was a solid, dried up chunk of grease keeping the threads from engaging, ha ha. I turns better now than it did two days ago when i got it. Thanks for the tips. Also, I took some denatured alcohol and a rag and the paint is cleaning up a ton. Just years of oil & grease build up I guess.

I really only need to get a short belt for it now as the motor needs to sit fairly close to it due to where I'll be placing it in my tiny shop. The belt that came with it when squeezed flat is around 13 inches and it could go smaller if possible. Any recommendations?
 

bmwrd0

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The belts are 3L size. You can disassemble the headstock to remove that belt (which will allow you to clean up everything in there) and here are the instructions:
http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/atlas/spindle/spindle.html

I got my belts at NAPA, as they aren't uncommon. Just pull off the old belt and it should either say the size on it (you have to know how to read belts; 3L250 = 25 inches, 3L320 = 32 inches, but you can also measure the outside diameter) You could also go with link belts, but I prefer the old school type. I use a 3L230 on mine because it is so close to the wall and is the very early version of the lathe, it looks like yours is very similar so that might be a good starting point. You might need to experiment a little bit.

Good luck, and let me know if you need anything else.
 

Zmann

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i clean stuff like that with wd40 if I am trying to degrease and save the paint
here are my two

first was 250$ second was 50$
 

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stokefire7

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I like the Atlas machines. Trying to find a few missing parts on the mill.
 

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Zmann

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what did you give for the horizontal mill ?$

i found all my lathe replacement parts on ebay from dismantlers
 

stokefire7

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Recently acquired. Came out of a high school in Galena, Il. I need to get some type of rust inhibitor on it.
 

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jransom

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The belts are 3L size. You can disassemble the headstock to remove that belt (which will allow you to clean up everything in there) and here are the instructions:
http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/atlas/spindle/spindle.html

I got my belts at NAPA, as they aren't uncommon. Just pull off the old belt and it should either say the size on it (you have to know how to read belts; 3L250 = 25 inches, 3L320 = 32 inches, but you can also measure the outside diameter) You could also go with link belts, but I prefer the old school type. I use a 3L230 on mine because it is so close to the wall and is the very early version of the lathe, it looks like yours is very similar so that might be a good starting point. You might need to experiment a little bit.

Good luck, and let me know if you need anything else.

Thank you for all that. My destroyed old belt simply says:
TRUFLEX 1360 Made In U.S.A. 8

I'll look into the 3L. So they are measured as if you were to cut one, stretch it out and measure end to end? Just want to make sure I understand.

Thank you!
 
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jransom

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Dang! Two scores in a row. I paid more than both of those combined, not by a ton though.
 
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jransom

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Man I'd love to find a little mill. I'd prefer a vertical one but I wouldn't pass on a horizontal either! That's a beauty.
 
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jransom

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Do you guys recommend a good way of cleaning the ways ? Maybe my little granite plate and some 800 - 1000 grit sand paper?
 
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jransom

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I get it, I thought he meant the little table on the front of the machine.... Still a little expensive I think.
 

bmwrd0

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Thank you for all that. My destroyed old belt simply says:
TRUFLEX 1360 Made In U.S.A. 8

I'll look into the 3L. So they are measured as if you were to cut one, stretch it out and measure end to end? Just want to make sure I understand.

Thank you!

Yes, essentially.
 
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jransom

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i can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the little drill chuck from the tail stock. Does anyone know? Thanks.
 

Zmann

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Retract the tail stock all the way ( spin it into the housing ) it should eject the taper
 
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jransom

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Ha ha, small a$$ hammer to the rescue. Little hammer with a rubber and plastic end. Didn’t take much, I just couldn’t yank it hard enought to pop it loose.
 

ssdave

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i clean stuff like that with wd40 if I am trying to degrease and save the paint
here are my two

first was 250$ second was 50$

Those were essentially gifted to you. The QC one is worth about $1200. The second one is similar to the craftsman one I sold today for $650.
 

Model A Fan

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Dec 1, 2011
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Location
NW Washington
Hi guys, it's been a few years since I've been around here. Little ones take up a lot of my time and I have been focusing on other things ther than my machines and tools.

I just got this new project yesterday though and thought some of you may appreciate it. Not sure of the year yet and it seems to be in really solid shape. I'm fairly certain it was from the original owners estate (he was in his 90s) and while it is missing a few obvious things like the motor armature, UN-modified tail stock and some other items, what is there appears to be in great shape. It is all really gummed up from sitting for many years but when I turned it on for a minute it runs like a top, even with the totally wasted belt. All the knobs turn and move as they should, etc.

It came with a lot of pieces, some that I wont use however. There are some Atlas and Armstrong cutters, carbide bits, a little live center, a few small drill bit chucks, some original Craftsman calipers of some sort and some other things. The manual is there, an old book titled "Instruction Sheets For The General Shop - Electricity" book from 1932 is there and a very old wooden box that still has an Atlas label on one end that had a bunch of the pieces just sitting in it.

I'm not sure if I'll simply disassemble it, clean / re-lubricated and reassemble for use as it is or if I'll tear the whole thing down, give it all the Evaporust treatment and then repaint and reassemble. I really don't want to mess up the original sticker badges and such but I'd also like to stop the little amount of rust that is there.

All your opinions, ideas and comments are welcome. Here are some pictures for reference. Thanks for reading! -John
@jransom

I know this is an older thread, but would you be willing to post the pictures of the "Instruction Sheets For The General Shop - Electricity" book from 1932 please? I'm curious what it says as I collect similar books and manuals.
 
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