Miter Saw Questions..Help Me Out

[ThatSickRip]

So Ive got an older Hitachi 10" single bevel compound saw (C10FCH2) and Ive used it for little things here and there, nothing major. We are looking at redoing crown molding, base boards, window/door trim, etc. Being a saw rookie, would this saw be able to handle that work, or would I be better suited to pick up the DeWalt 779 for $399 currently at HD since its double bevel and sliding? I think the Hitachi would be able to handle what we want to do, just wondering about it being able to do the 3.5" + crown molding and possibly me getting confused with the angle cuts being single bevel lol

Hitachi:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hitachi-10-in-15-Amp-Single-Bevel-Compound-Miter-Saw/1085791

DeWalt:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-12-in-Double-Bevel-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-Blade-Wrench-Material-Clamp-DWS779/206541015

Im a Milwaukee guy, but cant see paying almost double the price for a similar saw as the DeWalt

 

[Sal Bandini]

IMO you are better off making a fixture and cutting the crown at its spring angle. The only reason I would cut on the flats is if it is too big to cut the other way. Saves you $399.

 

[rsanter]

Short answer is you, you can do crown mounding on that saw. The limit will be the size of the mounding as well as you understanding of how to do it.

People have been doing crown mounding for decades without the fancy saws, there is a skill to that. If you learn that then you will be good. In fact some people think that the old old ways of actually coping in the corner are far better that the miter cut, they are just more time consuming.

I did all the crown mounding in a previous house with a single Bevin miter saw as that was all that I had. I did a bunch of test cuts to dial it in and then I clamped stops on my saw so every one was right on. Too bad that because the house is not squeaked that none of them were right on. I had to had fit (or tune in) every joint to get it the way I wanted ( I'm a picky pain in the ***).

Learn the old way and the old old way of doing moulding and then go for it

 

[PelicanPines]

I bought the Dewalt dual bevel... (non sliding) about 16 years ago. I trimmed a whole house with it... Did 2 decks and several other projects. I cut wood, plastic, aluminum without issues. I sharpen the blade myself and I installed a shadow blade marker to see exactly where it's gonna cut. My house included 3 rooms of crown molding (different types)... I used a store bought Jig (lazy I am)...

I also have a smaller chop saw that I keep at 90 degrees. 8 1/4" blade.

 

[mcdye]

IF you should decide to move forward with a new saw, looks like Lowes will have the Dewalt at the same price AND include a Dewalt miter saw stand per Black Friday ad.

 

[ThatSickRip]

Thanks guys! A lot to still think about. Save the money and buy other needed stuff for the reno or buy the say and save money from effin up cuts until I figure it out lol

IF you should decide to move forward with a new saw, looks like Lowes will have the Dewalt at the same price AND include a Dewalt miter saw stand per Black Friday ad.

Got a link or screen shot?

 

[mcdye]

Thanks guys! A lot to still think about. Save the money and buy other needed stuff for the reno or buy the say and save money from effin up cuts until I figure it out lol

Got a link or screen shot?

https://blackfriday.com/ads/black-friday/lowes?page=9

UPDATE...I may be wrong....that appears to be the 2019...urr sorry.

 

[ThatSickRip]

https://blackfriday.com/ads/black-friday/lowes?page=9

Thanks!

 

[Aquamoose]

I’ve done my share of crown moldings with a simple saw. I remember that I’d take a few scraps and mark them which angles they were cut with so I can find the best piece and adjust to that for the piece I’m installing. It helped that since they were painted white, I could caulk the seams to hide the tiny gaps. It was a nightmare to do my house as it was built before the square was invented!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MoonRise]

https://blackfriday.com/ads/black-friday/lowes?page=9

UPDATE...I may be wrong....that appears to be the 2019...urr sorry.

Shows as 2020 for me.

IIRC, Lowes and/or Home Depot had the same/similar Dewalt 12" sliding miter saw and stand deal last year as well.

That Dewalt 779 12" sliding saw is usually considered one of the top-end ones. Generally has a good reputation. The next-model up Dewalt 780 is pretty much the same saw with the LED shadow-line blade light, considered pretty good but it's another ~$100 more.

OP, 12" blade can cut 'bigger' than a 10" blade. 12" saws can cut through a 4x4 at 90 degrees (bevel, not miter), 10" saws can not. The 779 can crosscut a 2x14 at 90 deg, the 780 can crosscut a 2x16 at 90 deg (if you set the fence to the 'back' position). Both can cut a 45 deg miter on a 2x10.

12" blades are more expensive than a similar quality 10" blade. Bigger costs more.

The slide action lets you cut wider (width) pieces as well.

12" sliding bevel miter saws are bigger and heavier than a 10" pivoting saw. And cost more.

The slide action takes up more space in the shop because the slide rails take up space. Bosch's funky multi-link doesn't take up space behind the saw like saws with slide rails.

Double bevel lets you not have to flip and flop the workpiece back and forth and up and down multiple times.

Sliding miter saws may not be quite as accurate as a good pivoting saw (more possible slop and deflection in the slide rails and mechanism than just a single beefy pivot), but the current high(er) end 12" sliding miter saws can be plenty accurate if you don't reef on things crosswise.

re: coping versus mitering

Molding "inside" corners are ALWAYS cope cut. Well, one of the inside corners is just a straight cut and then the mating piece is coped to fit. To do the cope cut, you first have to do the miter cut to show the 'edge' to cope to.

Molding "outside" corners are miter cut, no cope there.

You can do a lot with a 10" single bevel saw, a double bevel saw lets you do 'more', a sliding miter saw lets you do more and bigger.

The sliding miter saw has pretty much taken over crosscut duties from the old-school radial arm saw (except for rip cuts, which were rather scary on a RAS because of the self-feed action ).

Old school (but power tools, not Roy Underhill 'old' ) was crosscut on the RAS and rip cut on the table saw.

New school might be sheet goods with a track saw. Sliding miter saw for crosscuts and molding/trim work.

More than one way to get things done.

Your call.

 

[ThatSickRip]

Shows as 2020 for me.

IIRC, Lowes and/or Home Depot had the same/similar Dewalt 12" sliding miter saw and stand deal last year as well.

That Dewalt 779 12" sliding saw is usually considered one of the top-end ones. Generally has a good reputation. The next-model up Dewalt 780 is pretty much the same saw with the LED shadow-line blade light, considered pretty good but it's another ~$100 more.

OP, 12" blade can cut 'bigger' than a 10" blade. 12" saws can cut through a 4x4 at 90 degrees (bevel, not miter), 10" saws can not. The 779 can crosscut a 2x14 at 90 deg, the 780 can crosscut a 2x16 at 90 deg (if you set the fence to the 'back' position). Both can cut a 45 deg miter on a 2x10.

12" blades are more expensive than a similar quality 10" blade. Bigger costs more.

The slide action lets you cut wider (width) pieces as well.

12" sliding bevel miter saws are bigger and heavier than a 10" pivoting saw. And cost more.

The slide action takes up more space in the shop because the slide rails take up space. Bosch's funky multi-link doesn't take up space behind the saw like saws with slide rails.

Double bevel lets you not have to flip and flop the workpiece back and forth and up and down multiple times.

Sliding miter saws may not be quite as accurate as a good pivoting saw (more possible slop and deflection in the slide rails and mechanism than just a single beefy pivot), but the current high(er) end 12" sliding miter saws can be plenty accurate if you don't reef on things crosswise.

re: coping versus mitering

Molding "inside" corners are ALWAYS cope cut. Well, one of the inside corners is just a straight cut and then the mating piece is coped to fit. To do the cope cut, you first have to do the miter cut to show the 'edge' to cope to.

Molding "outside" corners are miter cut, no cope there.

You can do a lot with a 10" single bevel saw, a double bevel saw lets you do 'more', a sliding miter saw lets you do more and bigger.

The sliding miter saw has pretty much taken over crosscut duties from the old-school radial arm saw (except for rip cuts, which were rather scary on a RAS because of the self-feed action ).

Old school (but power tools, not Roy Underhill 'old' ) was crosscut on the RAS and rip cut on the table saw.

New school might be sheet goods with a track saw. Sliding miter saw for crosscuts and molding/trim work.

More than one way to get things done.

Your call.

Thanks for all of the detail! So realistically, I dont see myself needing to cut anything "big" so to speak. So that may rule out the sliding aspect. The double bevel is still enticing, mainly because Im horrible with angles and think it might help. Now if the helps is worth $300 plus is the question vs the saw I have and just new, good blades

 

[PelicanPines]

Thanks for all of the detail! So realistically, I dont see myself needing to cut anything "big" so to speak. So that may rule out the sliding aspect. The double bevel is still enticing, mainly because Im horrible with angles and think it might help. Now if the helps is worth $300 plus is the question vs the saw I have and just new, good blades

Moonrise NAILED it. Sliding is nice but meh... Double bevel is not only NICE... it's helpful, enticing, makes things easier.

Buy a great blade... get a diamond sharpener... I doubt you will need a 2nd blade unless you build houses for a living.

 

[mcdye]

Shows as 2020 for me.

At the bottom of page 1, talks about valid Lowes Credit Card 11/28/19 - 12/4/19.

 

[MoonRise]

For me, a power miter saw NEEDS to be double-bevel double compound miter capable (left miter and right miter, left tilt bevel and right tilt bevel, and all combinations). YMMV

As I mentioned, slide lets you cut wider stock than just a 'pivot' miter saw.

12" blade lets you cut wider and thicker stock all by itself (slide just lets you cut wider stock). Can't cut through a 4x4 with a 10" blade miter saw, 12" blade saws can do that.

Figure out what you NEED, then figure out what you 'want'. Find something that meets your NEEDS and your wants and that you can afford ($$$ and space).

Remember that a new 'fine cut' 12" 96+ tooth blade will be ~$100 or more all by itself. And yes, for 'fine' cuts (trim and molding especially) you do NEED that level of blade.

(older 10" blade saw, I used an 80 tooth Freud IIRC 'fine cut' blade for trim type work. Leaves a really-really nice cut line, as in glue-line on a mitered return cut quality.)

 

[MoonRise]

At the bottom of page 1, talks about valid Lowes Credit Card 11/28/19 - 12/4/19.

Top of the header says 2020, but the ad might be the old 2019 one.

 

[ThatSickRip]

For me, a power miter saw NEEDS to be double-bevel double compound miter capable (left miter and right miter, left tilt bevel and right tilt bevel, and all combinations). YMMV

As I mentioned, slide lets you cut wider stock than just a 'pivot' miter saw.

12" blade lets you cut wider and thicker stock all by itself (slide just lets you cut wider stock). Can't cut through a 4x4 with a 10" blade miter saw, 12" blade saws can do that.

Figure out what you NEED, then figure out what you 'want'. Find something that meets your NEEDS and your wants and that you can afford ($$$ and space).

Remember that a new 'fine cut' 12" 96+ tooth blade will be ~$100 or more all by itself. And yes, for 'fine' cuts (trim and molding especially) you do NEED that level of blade.

(older 10" blade saw, I used an 80 tooth Freud IIRC 'fine cut' blade for trim type work. Leaves a really-really nice cut line, as in glue-line on a mitered return cut quality.)

Thanks again for all the detailed info, greatly appreciated!

Im thinking the smart thing might be to but some trim pieces, and practice with the current saw and blade I have now. If I can get it down, then maybe proceed to getting a good blade for the 10" and use it for as much as I can. This way Im only out a few buck on the trim at first.

As much as Id love a reason for a new tool, not sure I can justify the DeWalt if the 10" I have will do what I need. I know for sure right now the 10" is more capable than I am, so the logical thing would be to work on my ability first.

 

[Aquamoose]

Forgot to add,... you should google up on how to make miter cuts with a chop saw. Sometimes, you need to flip the molding and brace it on the fence with a stop block as a set reference. Here’s an excellent site. https://www.aconcordcarpenter.com/crown-molding-jig-2.html


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Doug Arthurs]

Good friend of mine is a trim carpenter. He uses a 12" Dewalt. Doesn't like the sliding one just uses the pivot style. He says the slide takes up too much space and doesn't give you as accurate cuts as the pivot. Also his mitres are very tight no caulking YMMV.

 

[KnurledNut]

Your saw will be fine.
Crown spring angle will either be 52/38 or 45/45.
Cut a small piece and place it on the inside of a framing square to get the exact measurements.
Crown profile will go against the wall as pictured:

Mark the fixed part of your saw BASE with the CEILING measurement.
In the picture above, you would mark 2-1/16 out from the fence.
Place your crown UPSIDE DOWN on the saw, angled, lining up with your mark.
(Double check that both resting surfaces on the backside of the crown are laying flat against the fence and base.)
You will not need to cut bevels using this method.
Just set the miter for your joint angles or copes.
If going over finished drywall, inside corners will be closer to 44 degrees and outside corners will be closer to 46.
This applies to baseboard too.
On walls that run parallel with the ceiling joists, there is often no nailer to fasten the top of the crown.
You might need to add a nailer.
On the sides that run perpendicular, nail into the joists.
Hope this helps.
You can do it.
Dont overthink it.

 

[ThatSickRip]

Your saw will be fine.
Crown spring angle will either be 52/38 or 45/45.
Cut a small piece and place it on the inside of a framing square to get the exact measurements.
Crown profile will go against the wall as pictured:

Mark the fixed part of your saw BASE with the CEILING measurement.
In the picture above, you would mark 2-1/16 out from the fence.
Place your crown UPSIDE DOWN on the saw, angled, lining up with your mark.
(Double check that both resting surfaces on the backside of the crown are laying flat against the fence and base.)
You will not need to cut bevels using this method.
Just set the miter for your joint angles or copes.
If going over finished drywall, inside corners will be closer to 44 degrees and outside corners will be closer to 46.
This applies to baseboard too.
On walls that run parallel with the ceiling joists, there is often no nailer to fasten the top of the crown.
You might need to add a nailer.
On the sides that run perpendicular, nail into the joists.
Hope this helps.
You can do it.
Dont overthink it.

Awesome, thank you so much! Great info!

This place is great

 

[fourjeepin]

HD also usually has that Dewalt saw on special at Black Friday. I coveted it for a few years before getting one. The slider is big and heavy but cuts everything in one pass. My previous miter saw wouldn’t cut all the way thru a 4x4. Very annoying.

 

[ThatSickRip]

Amazon now has the 779 for $349 and I have some reward points, but I think Im going to stay the course and use my current saw, even though the price drop is tempting