Cleaning old cement off with Muriatic Acid okay?

[Stillgottimefor1]

This old wheelbarrow is destined to be up by the gate as a yard ornament, pretty heavy, will I hurt it with M.A.? Should I do something else? Thanks.


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[56Mark]

I don't think MA will hurt it as far as eating the metal in two. It will probably remove the rust faster than the cement. The cement neutralizes it pretty quick if it is thick, and you will probably remove the rust in that area, but it will surface rust back pretty quick. I don't know of anything better to cut the cement.

 

[didit]

Spend some time with a small chipping hammer to get the bulk of cement removed, then use a heavy knotted wire wheel on an appropriately sized grinder. The muriatic acid will now be more effective. I can't stress enough the importance of reading the muriatic acid diluting and use instructions. Use a good respirator in a well ventilated area. You will have to neutralize the acid with water and coat as soon as possible with a good rust preventativetype paint. Good luck!

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

Thanks for the advice, will remove what I can with chipping before using the acid. Got this thing the same day as the Stover stationary engine at the scrap yard. Really like the low center of gravity . I may use this thing sometimes. Also haven’t had a flat yet.


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[Coggles]

I would use an air needle scaler. That would make short work of cement and probably not particularly hurt the wheelbarrow


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[Roberts210]

Ditto on a needle scaler. I needed one for removing paint, rust, and old glazing compound from 53, old, steel-frame, casement windows. I ended up getting a needle scaler from Harbor Frieight, in spite of my distrust of them. But with only ONE moving part, I figured even H.F. couldn't screw it up too bad, and they didn't. The needle scaler worked great, and stlll works great 3 years later.

 

[thehorse13]

I would use an air needle scaler. That would make short work of cement and probably not particularly hurt the wheelbarrow


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Ditto on a needle scaler. I needed one for removing paint, rust, and old glazing compound from 53, old, steel-frame, casement windows. I ended up getting a needle scaler from Harbor Frieight, in spite of my distrust of them. But with only ONE moving part, I figured even H.F. couldn't screw it up too bad, and they didn't. The needle scaler worked great, and stlll works great 3 years later.

This is the correct answer. Needle scaler all the way. As a lesson hard learned many years ago, I only fool with acid as a last resort.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

If you use the MA it's not only yourself you need to worry about with the fumes, which are uncontrollable. You have to be in a wide open space. Even when diluted the fumes will settle on stuff and ruin it in a hurry.

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

I know where I can borrow a scaler, I don’t yet have my bigger compressor going but what’s the hurry? Ear protection for sure! Thanks folks.


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[ALLFAST]

Don't forget that you can choke down the air supply to dial in the perfect supplied air pressure ,in case your particular gun is overpowered for your project. Like all power tools, some are weaker or stronger due to their age, quality, etc.

Also, when using the gun, take the index finger and thumb of your weak hand and wrap them around the whole bunch of needles, about 2 inches from the end or so.. You can control the force of the needles very well to concentrate their cleaning action in spots and cervices.,etc .I liken it to a closed or open choke pattern of a shotgun blast. By doing this you can make the crude needle gun into quite the precision cleaning instrument!

I've logged many hundred hours of needle gun time and developed these two tricks out of necessity.

Sounds like a neat project !

Good luck, Shawn