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ZMotorsports Shop Projects 2.0

38Chevy454

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Mike. I think the saying "Apple doesn't fall far from the tree" applies to your son. His house is looking good. A lot of yard improvements take a year to really show through.

Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike. I think the saying "Apple doesn't fall far from the tree" applies to your son. His house is looking good. A lot of yard improvements take a year to really show through.

Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone

Thank you Terry, I appreciate that. Hope all is going well with your recent move and it's starting to feel like home.
 

Graham08

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Hey Mike! I see you've been keeping busy...thanks for the Moab pictures. My wife and I honeymooned there and we're about due to go back now that our boys are big enough to enjoy it.
 
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zmotorsports

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Hey Mike! I see you've been keeping busy...thanks for the Moab pictures. My wife and I honeymooned there and we're about due to go back now that our boys are big enough to enjoy it.

Hey Graham, good to see ya around and thanks for stopping by.

If it's been a while since you've seen Moab you won't recognize it. Hell, I go annually and over the past 3 years it has changed so much I almost don't recognize it.
 
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zmotorsports

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Last night my son and I were doing some work on his truck.

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Removing fan & clutch assembly.
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After replacing CMP I verified the waveform.
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We then racked it to replace his muffler with something a little more mellow.
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After a test drive the wife informed me that she thought her tire looked a little low when she left work today and she got a low air pressure indicator on the way home.
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Sure enough, she picked up a screw from somewhere.
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zmotorsports

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Mike, looks like a super handy way to remove a waterpump shaft mounted fan!

Yeah, that was a sound investment. I purchased this set of fan clutch/hub adapters for the air hammer about 10 years ago and they work fantastic. Just a couple of ugga-dugga's and the hub spins right off. No need to try and hold the pulley with one hand while leveraging a wrench with the other. Very quick and affective method.
 
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zmotorsports

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Yesterday I took some time to investigate an interesting issue that my Jeep had developed over the past week and a half or three tanks of fuel.

Immediately after fueling my fuel trims usually go high negative. This is a design trait of many operating systems in order to reset the adaptives as well as fine tuning of the fuel trims to evaluate fuel composition and quality, especially on flex fuel vehicles.

I had some slight issues with my LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trims) last winter that I was fine tuning and after tweaking my tune, specifically my air flow calculations, back in February the 6.2 L94 engine has been running flawless in my 2011 Jeep. From single digit winter driving in February to triple digit heat over the summer and from 2k feet elevations all the way up to 13k plus feet in Ouray it has performed flawlessly and adjusted fuel trims perfectly.

Last week when I fueled up on the way home from work I noticed that it stayed high negative on my LTFT's longer than normal. I also noticed that during the week I got a CEL several times and each time I was idling at a stop light for an extended period of time. I could watch my LTFT go to -30.4 before setting the rich code (P0172 & P0175).

Yesterday after breakfast I had some time to myself so I decided I was going to check a couple of items on the Jeep. First being the air filter, which I generally clean at each LOF service but this one had a recent trip to Moab on it so I thought it could be possible that it may be dirty even though I put my Outerwear on it for the week of the rally. After removing my air filter I noted that from the outside it appeared a bit dirty but with a light inside it was obviously not plugged or even that bad for that matter. I installed my backup filter anyways. I usually keep a cleaned/oiled filter in a ziplock baggy that I carry in the coach for backup and also switch between the two during a LOF service @ approx. 4.5k miles.

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Also while I was at it I though I'd pull the intake duct off and clean the throttle body. During our trip to Ouray in August I worked the snot out of the ole' girl and thought maybe I got a little bit of oil vapor from the PCV system that could have gummed up the throttle body and affecting the nearly closed position at idle which could be why it was running rich at idle. And since it was already out I also sprayed the MAF sensor with cleaner and let dry. The good news is that the MAF sensor was clean, the air filter wasn't that dirty and there was hardly any residue in the throttle body. I also ran my hand inside of the intake duct and could feel no grit or anything indicating that the air filter is performing its duties as designed. I was especially concerned due to the amount of dirt/dust that we had encountered in Moab last month as it was extremely dry and dusty. Luckily I was the trail leader on several of the days so it was minimal but the other days I was back in the dust as tail-gunner, although I held back a bit further to stay clear of as much dust as possible.

I decided to hook up my HP Tuners scanner to the Jeep and go for a drive as it does a great job of giving visual cues that are easier to watch while driving than my Snap-on Modis Ultra scanner. Plus I could load a few more PID's onto the screen for viewing.

I noticed that just idling in the shop I could tell it was running rich from the smell and the idle was a bit off to me. During my drive I noted that the O2 sensors were switching perfectly and very quick just like they should have been. I also noted that the MAF sensor appeared to be reporting properly as was the MAP sensor, each of which can cause my issue if not reporting correctly. What caught my attention was that while the upstream O2 sensors were switching rapidly my STFT (Short Term Fuel Trim) numbers were pretty much spot on at +/- <5 which is near perfect, usually around +/- 1.5 or less, yet my LTFT was still at -27 to around -29.6 while driving. This had me scratching my head because the LTFT is supposed to be a mean or average of the STFT but the STFT was pretty much at zero and hadn't even left the single digits.:headscrat

I pulled over to study my data and that's when I saw it. I noticed that my ethanol fuel content was at 45.1%. That was erroneous as we don't have E85 around here and most everything is only max of 10% ethanol. I thought maybe I got a bad batch of fuel. I went home and did some reading to discover how the GM operating system determined the ethanol content percentage and it has to do with the O2 sensor reporting and fuel trims immediately after a fillup. This made perfect sense as my issue started immediately after a fillup a little over a week ago.

If you look at this screen shot of my HP Tuners data log you can see where I've circled both upstream O2 sensors as they are switching perfectly and the area to the left with my STFT and LTFT numbers that are in a yellow box.
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I went back to the shop and pulled out my Snap-on scanner and reset both the ethanol content adaptive as well as reset my fuel trims. The ethanol percentage went to 3% which is the factory default so I'm certain after the the next fueling event it will go to around 9-11% which is where it is usually at but I will confirm after that next fillup. The wife and I went for a drive nice drive afterwards and everything appears to be reporting properly now but that was definitely a learning curve as I have not experienced that scenario before on my Jeep, or any vehicle for that matter.

Sorry this was a bit lengthy but I just thought I would share in case others notice an issue with fuel trims after a fueling event.
 

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OutlawDrifter

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I have never run into that before, Mike. Bizarre that it would decide you were running a higher ethanol rate. I wonder if humidity/condensation, or cooler weather had anything to do with it?

Assuming you guys are on Winter blend fuel already, I wonder if the added butane caused the issue?
 
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zmotorsports

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I have never run into that before, Mike. Bizarre that it would decide you were running a higher ethanol rate. I wonder if humidity/condensation, or cooler weather had anything to do with it?

Assuming you guys are on Winter blend fuel already, I wonder if the added butane caused the issue?

I'm not certain what caused it Marc. I know we've switched over to our winter blend here but that's been more than within the last week or so.

Upon some more reading last night I've determined it may have something to do with the way I refueled. The operating system has to fine tune the fuel trim from the O2 reporting after a fueling event. It will watch to see how much it cuts back the fuel after adding fuel to determine the ethanol content as the higher ethanol will require more fuel. When the fuel trims pull the fuel back it will decide which map to use based on the O2 sensor reporting.

During that particular fueling event I used a station that is about a mile from home as the one I generally use was having fuel delivered and I try not to get fuel from a station while fuel is being delivered. Call me crazy but in my head I think it could be stirring up sediment during a fuel dump and I don't want it in my system. I know this has been addressed and for the most part has been disproven but I still can't wrap my head around it so I avoid fueling when fuel is being delivered to a station. Anyways, I fueled my Jeep and immediately pulled into the garage and shut it off. The next morning it was sub-freezing so it took a few minutes to get the O2 sensors switching and the operating system into closed loop. This may have been part of my problem as I didn't drive it long enough after a fueling event for the adaptives to gather all of the information they needed to determine proper fuel composition.

This is merely a guess because it was outside the norm for my fueling and I have no idea if I am correct or not.
 

LXCam

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That's what I was wondering Mike, if you ever got it warm enough to go into closed loop for a couple of starts/runs.
 
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zmotorsports

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That's what I was wondering Mike, if you ever got it warm enough to go into closed loop for a couple of starts/runs.

Cam, it was definitely warm and in closed loop when I fueled the Jeep becasue I had just driven my 16-miles home from work, but then shut it down for the night within a mile from the fueling event. I think it may not have been done collecting the required data when I shut it down for the night so when I fired it up the next morning and it being in cold start mode and having fuel added it may have skewed the readings, due to the added fuel for cold it may have concluded that it had high ethanol content.

At this point I am merely guessing because I am unable to find any conclusive information on exact fueling procedures for a FFV (Flex Fuel Vehicle).
 

Mr.zippy

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Perhaps you could fuel up on the drive to work, instead of from work? Maybe that 16 miles would give everything time to "settle" in?
 
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zmotorsports

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My son came over yesterday afternoon and serviced his Jeep before Sunday dinner.
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Tonight we finished installing his new CP3 pump on his LB7 Duramax.

Some pictures of when we were diagnosing.

Clamped off and pressurizing the supply side to verify no leaks.
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Hooked up clear line prior to filter head.
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Clear line at the supply side of the CP3. No bubbles in either which proves no air leaks.
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We determined the CP3 is passing too much fuel back through the cascade valve internally. It was borderline but with 262k miles on it my son wanted to replace it.
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The FSM states to remove the coolant crossover casting but it is not necessary. The four bolts can be accessed without removing the crossover.
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This lower passenger side CP3 mounting bolt can be accessed by loosening the coolant bypass hose mounting tab bolt and slightly shifting it to the side. The bolt will not come all the way out but it can be pulled out far enough to clear the block.
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The intake Y-bridge is easy enough to remove to allow better access for pump removal. Look at how nice and clean a non-EGR diesel engine is, even with a quarter of a million miles.
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Pump removed.
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Re-manned pump ready to swap over mounting bracket with new O-rings.
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Pump ready for installation.
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Pump installed.
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Going back together with new hoses.
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And she’s back together. Better but still having an issue with delayed cranking. I think we need to face the fact that we have an injector or two leaking past the return ball seat. Time for more testing.
 

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OutlawDrifter

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Soooo much stuff on the top!

The inside is nice and clean. In my last job I had numerous issues with both of my Duramax pickups and all of the emissions garbage. Both had the def tanks replaced numerous times under warranty. They really hobbled a great engine, solid workers without the nannies!
 
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zmotorsports

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Soooo much stuff on the top!

The inside is nice and clean. In my last job I had numerous issues with both of my Duramax pickups and all of the emissions garbage. Both had the def tanks replaced numerous times under warranty. They really hobbled a great engine, solid workers without the nannies!

That's why I like the LB7 Marc. No BS, just a good ole solid performing engine.

The downside of the LB7 is the injectors are buried under the rocker boxes which need to be removed for access but other than that they are a great engine, just a few more nuts and bolts to get to.
 

OutlawDrifter

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That's why I like the LB7 Marc. No BS, just a good ole solid performing engine.

The downside of the LB7 is the injectors are buried under the rocker boxes which need to be removed for access but other than that they are a great engine, just a few more nuts and bolts to get to.

No argument there! I think the Duramax itself is a great platform.

Doesn't matter the brand, once they started adding in all the emissions garbage the manufacturers really started having problems. My wife's boss was running a fleet of new F550s with his other business, all 6.7L diesels...I have never seen so many issues and a lack of availability of parts from Ford! :dunno:

Nothing against the planet, but no matter how many emissions regulations the EPA sets in place, doesn't mean any other country is going to follow suit. When China was shut down, they saw the difference it makes in greenhouse gasses being emitted ;)
 

isonic

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Nice work on the DMAX. What year is your son's truck? Is the CP3 pump the main (or only) fuel pump on those motors? My dad has an '03 (thinking that is the LB7?). He ended up replacing his fuel pump and his truck and it is running sooo much better, it starts better too. I am thinking that was the CP3 pump?
 
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zmotorsports

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Nice work on the DMAX. What year is your son's truck? Is the CP3 pump the main (or only) fuel pump on those motors? My dad has an '03 (thinking that is the LB7?). He ended up replacing his fuel pump and his truck and it is running sooo much better, it starts better too. I am thinking that was the CP3 pump?

Thank you.

Yes, the CP3 pump is the only pump on the Duramax line of engines. We will be installing a lift pump on both his 2002 LB7 as well as my 2006 LBZ shortly to help ward off future problems plus give an extra level of filtration.

My son's CP3 pump was returning a bit more fuel than it should by spec but I feel we may have some injector issues with at least one. What really bothers me is we installed new injectors just over 15k miles ago so we had pretty much ruled them out as a possible suspect but after more testing I'm afraid that's not the case. The vendor is also being less than cooperative with their warranty because they're basing it on time from purchase and not miles.

Glad to hear your dad got his LB7 sorted out as these are nice powertrains. They are a bit more troublesome to work on due to more components have to be removed to get to the injectors but it's just nuts & bolts.
 
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isonic

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Thanks for the reply. That makes sense. My dad also had a few rounds of issues with his injectors. Even though they were from a Bosch certified shop. It is running very well now, hard to keep tires on the back of that thing when you are not used to the power! :3gears:

It puzzled me at first why GM didn't put a factory in tank electric lift pump in with these motors. Then again my VW diesel didn't have one either at first. I did find and install a VW factory in tank lift pump which came from a newer diesel model and it worked great. Made fuel filter replacements much easier.

When you get to installing your lift pumps feel free to share here. I would love to see what and how you do it :beer:
 
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zmotorsports

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Thanks for the reply. That makes sense. My dad also had a few rounds of issues with his injectors. Even though they were from a Bosch certified shop. It is running very well now, hard to keep tires on the back of that thing when you are not used to the power! :3gears:

It puzzled me at first why GM didn't put a factory in tank electric lift pump in with these motors. Then again my VW diesel didn't have one either at first. I did find and install a VW factory in tank lift pump which came from a newer diesel model and it worked great. Made fuel filter replacements much easier.

When you get to installing your lift pumps feel free to share here. I would love to see what and how you do it :beer:

I sure will. Aftermarket lift pumps are not too difficult to do but I'll show here as it looks like there's interest. While they're not 100% necessary they do have their place. Many people think you can't get life out of a diesel without a lift pump but I've seen these early Duramax's go 500k plus miles on the factory pump if properly filtered and cared for. Also keep in mind that most OTR trucks that you pass out there don't have lift pumps and they are 1M mile chassis and drivetrains.
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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My buddy is north of 400k miles on his LB7, but I do know he has auxiliary fuel filtration as he uses CAT canister fuel filters.
 
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zmotorsports

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My buddy is north of 400k miles on his LB7, but I do know he has auxiliary fuel filtration as he uses CAT canister fuel filters.

I agree Ryan, these LB7's, and even the LLY's and LBZ's, can go hundreds of thousands of miles if properly cared for. There are many on duramax forum that have high 600k range. Two that I know of have 680k and 695k and still going. Proper fuel filtration is crucial on any of these high pressure common rail systems.
 
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zmotorsports

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More testing but at least we’ve discovered the problem.

We again tested total fuel return back at the tank and although it was within the allowable specifications and less than the test we performed prior to the high pressure pump replacement, we decided to dig deeper.

We began to test the CP3 return rate as well as each bank independently. Here are the left and right banks with return lines connected.
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Both banks were within the allowable limit but the right (passenger’s) bank was right at 16ml and left (driver’s) at 11ml. Some shops, maybe most, would say that they’re within spec so nothing more to do but we wanted to dig deeper. I explained to my son that we could still have one or two injectors per bank that are returning more than the 4ml limit and fall under the max limit per bank. Also worth noting was that the new CP3 was returning about 27ml so that is fine now.
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We tore the upper and lower rocker boxes off and got down to the individual injectors for testing.
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My test kit that I use for testing is made by Kent-Moore. I believe this is the same as the GM dealerships use.
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Driver’s bank setup for testing.
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After testing the driver’s side bank (even cylinders) we moved over to test the passenger’s bank (odd cylinders).
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Conclusion: cylinders 1, 4 and 5 are all returning at least 5ml of fuel and #6 is returning a fat 3ml. All others are returning 2ml which are perfect. Personally I think we’re going to replace #6 as well.

I’m a little pissed off because we just installed these injectors in April of last year and they only have 15,335 miles on them and half have failed.

Closing up for the night.
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More pics as parts get cleaned and the engine starts going back together.


Thanks for looking.
 

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GRN96WS6

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What does the company they were purchased from say? I've heard with diesels especially you want to replace the entire bank not just one but people opt for the cheap way out as with most things.

I have a nagging issue with my power stroke that I can't seem to figure out and don't have all the tools necessary, and of course it doesn't act up when I have taken it to the shop twice now.
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike, your trouble shooting skills are second to none. Thanks for taking us along.

jhn9840
John



Thank you John. I appreciate that. I try to be thorough and precise. I told myself 30+ years ago when I started wrenching professionally that I wasn’t going to be a parts swapper and learn how to properly diagnose symptoms. Thirty-plus years later I’m still learning.

I appreciate you stopping by and checking out what I’m working on.
 
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zmotorsports

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What does the company they were purchased from say? I've heard with diesels especially you want to replace the entire bank not just one but people opt for the cheap way out as with most things.

I have a nagging issue with my power stroke that I can't seem to figure out and don't have all the tools necessary, and of course it doesn't act up when I have taken it to the shop twice now.



The company wouldn’t warranty them because it is beyond the 1-year from purchase date time period.

I tried to reason with them explaining it was only 15k miles and how much business and money I’ve spent with them over the past decade. I had another gentleman call me back later stating if I paid $75/each they would have them tested and if found them to fail they would repair them, send them back to me and refund my $75. However if they were found with any contamination or neglected filtering they would not stand behind the warranty. I explained that I had video of the tests showing the exact test time, flow and results so no need to perform another test but he didn’t concur.

My worry is that if I pay the test fee then they will make sure to find a reason to deny the claim and I’m out the $75/each plus I still have to buy injectors.

Believe me, I’m sick over this whole experience because we thought we were purchasing the best injectors money could buy only to have half of them fail in 15k miles.

As for replacing individual injectors vs. full set, I’ve done them both ways depending on the circumstances and/or scenario.
 
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zmotorsports

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Tonight I cleaned the sealant off of the upper and lower rocker boxes in preparation for reassembly.

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The cleaning of the upper rocker covers is probably the worst part of the entire job to be honest.

I use a small amount of GM’s ES (Engine Sealant) which does a great job of sealing and looks OEM when done but it sickens me when I see some of these with the amount of RTV people goop on them. I guess the common belief is more sealant is better.
 

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GRN96WS6

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The company wouldn’t warranty them because it is beyond the 1-year from purchase date time period.

I tried to reason with them explaining it was only 15k miles and how much business and money I’ve spent with them over the past decade. I had another gentleman call me back later stating if I paid $75/each they would have them tested and if found them to fail they would repair them, send them back to me and refund my $75. However if they were found with any contamination or neglected filtering they would not stand behind the warranty. I explained that I had video of the tests showing the exact test time, flow and results so no need to perform another test but he didn’t concur.

My worry is that if I pay the test fee then they will make sure to find a reason to deny the claim and I’m out the $75/each plus I still have to buy injectors.

Believe me, I’m sick over this whole experience because we thought we were purchasing the best injectors money could buy only to have half of them fail in 15k miles.

As for replacing individual injectors vs. full set, I’ve done them both ways depending on the circumstances and/or scenario.
I'm gonna guess you aren't a social media person, however if this company is on social media sometimes I have used twitter when I have not received a response or am trying to get them to stand behind their products. I won't lie and say it's been successful each time but I've had enough success to warrant trying it when needed.
 

MP&C

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Yup, move the video to social media and tag the company. They seem more likely to do the right thing when on such a public stage.. I'll echo John's comments on your trouble shooting skills. Thanks for taking us along for the ride!
 
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zmotorsports

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I appreciate the responses guys.

I don't do much on social media, I do have an Instagram page but it's small and I just post stuff like on here, various projects and such.

As for shaming someone on social media I've been waffling with posting something but just can't bring myself to do that. There seems to be enough negativity these days on all of the social media avenues and I don't want to be contributing to that. I feel I have fought negative tendencies much of my life and over the past several years I feel like I've been able to look at how blessed I am vs. what I don't have and I like where I'm at emotionally and spiritually in that respect.

I was hoping the company would have taken my word (and video) as proof and stepped up to do the right thing without being shamed into doing so. Goes to show that no matter large or small most companies are merely after that almighty dollar vs. sticking to a moral and ethical business model. Maybe that's one of the reasons I no longer have my speed shop is because I put getting the job done and done correctly above my profit margin.
 

jbmatth

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If you don't mind sharing who supplied the injectors? I hear a lot of good things about exergy injectors and may be worth looking into. My fear is that if 4 are failed/near failed after only 15k miles the other 4 may not be far behind. I know they aren't cheap and have done the swap before and only want to do it as often as required going forward.

JB
 
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zmotorsports

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If you don't mind sharing who supplied the injectors? I hear a lot of good things about exergy injectors and may be worth looking into. My fear is that if 4 are failed/near failed after only 15k miles the other 4 may not be far behind. I know they aren't cheap and have done the swap before and only want to do it as often as required going forward.

JB

JB, I purchased the set from Merchant Automotive last March. I've been dealing with them for quite a few years now and this is the only issue I've had, with any of their products. The idea that 4 have failed in 15k miles and wondering when the other 4 will fail or if they will fail is not something I want to worry about nor do I want my son to question the reliability of his truck so we're replacing all 8. I'm also not fond of the idea of spending $75/each for testing and then having them deny the warranty anyways, especially when they already pretty much told me I passed the warranty time frame. I'm worried they look for any other reason to deny then I'm out the testing fee plus having to purchase new injectors.

I purchased this next set from Lincoln Diesel Specialists as they come very highly recommended on duramaxforum and I have heard nothing but good about them, so I'll give them a try and see for myself.
 

OutlawDrifter

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Mike, there are a few good companies still out there. ICT Billet has gone above and beyond for me more than once, but there is a reason I no longer buy Cooper tires!

Even if it isn't the popular thing, I still believe in doing the RIGHT thing...too bad there aren't more like us out there, the world would be a better place!
 

HEEP

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Mike, In my profession, I deal with warranties from Reman suppliers. Yes, they can be hard to deal with, and yes, the dollar is the highest contributing factor in coverage.
You can be sure that they will find one spec of contamination in those injectors and tell you they are not covering. Injector companies are the worse. I have tried many times, to have our company only sell new injectors and forget the Reman portion of this business.
When I had my LB7, I replaced the injectors with Lincoln. They were good injectors in my opinion. Good luck, filtration as you know is key, and you probably already run an additive. That also helps.
Thanks always for showing the work you do. Being without a garage for the moment, I live for these posts.
Bill
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike, there are a few good companies still out there. ICT Billet has gone above and beyond for me more than once, but there is a reason I no longer buy Cooper tires!

Even if it isn't the popular thing, I still believe in doing the RIGHT thing...too bad there aren't more like us out there, the world would be a better place!

Thanks Marc. Funny you mention Cooper tires, I was considering the STT Pro's when I was stepping to 37's on my Jeep. For every good review I saw at least 2 or 3 bad ones so opted to pass and try the Nitto's. Most of the SST Pro's that I was hearing bad things about was tread separation. Glad I avoided them as I am happy as a clam with my Nitto Ridge Grapplers.
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike, In my profession, I deal with warranties from Reman suppliers. Yes, they can be hard to deal with, and yes, the dollar is the highest contributing factor in coverage.
You can be sure that they will find one spec of contamination in those injectors and tell you they are not covering. Injector companies are the worse. I have tried many times, to have our company only sell new injectors and forget the Reman portion of this business.
When I had my LB7, I replaced the injectors with Lincoln. They were good injectors in my opinion. Good luck, filtration as you know is key, and you probably already run an additive. That also helps.
Thanks always for showing the work you do. Being without a garage for the moment, I live for these posts.
Bill

Thanks for the feedback Bill.

I've had pretty decent results with Bosch remanned injectors in the past but when we bought these for my son's truck back in March of 2019 he opted to go with brand new Bosch from Merchant because he plans on keeping the truck long term. That's why we're struggling so hard with their decision to fight us on the warranty. You hit the nail on the head with exactly my concerns, if they find even one microscopic piece of foreign material (or even if they don't) I worry they will say they are completely contaminated and deny the warranty anyways. Even though we are **** about our filtration and even err on the over-replacement of fuel filters all they would have to do is claim contamination and we're still looking to buy injectors. We just opted to forego the testing and bite the bullet and try some reman's from LDS as they been getting rave reviews on the light diesel forums.

I appreciate you following along and for the comments.
 

CarterKraft

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73
Location
DFW
The company wouldn’t warranty them because it is beyond the 1-year from purchase date time period.

I tried to reason with them explaining it was only 15k miles and how much business and money I’ve spent with them over the past decade. I had another gentleman call me back later stating if I paid $75/each they would have them tested and if found them to fail they would repair them, send them back to me and refund my $75. However if they were found with any contamination or neglected filtering they would not stand behind the warranty. I explained that I had video of the tests showing the exact test time, flow and results so no need to perform another test but he didn’t concur.

My worry is that if I pay the test fee then they will make sure to find a reason to deny the claim and I’m out the $75/each plus I still have to buy injectors.

Believe me, I’m sick over this whole experience because we thought we were purchasing the best injectors money could buy only to have half of them fail in 15k miles.

As for replacing individual injectors vs. full set, I’ve done them both ways depending on the circumstances and/or scenario.

Maybe send them one injector to test, limit your exposure and earn their trust, or maybe prove to yourself they are not standup as you suspect.
 
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