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What floor jack to buy? Long Frame

mrmineo1

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Jun 12, 2007
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Pittsburgh PA
I have a floor jack that I have had forever, it is leaking terribly out of some sort of adjustment at the top, I have put up with it for years because it is a long frame jack and I really like having that reach for old cars but the leak is just getting too bad. Every time I use it I need oil dry for the amount of fluid coming out. I cant seem to find anyone that still makes a long jack for cars. Plenty for big trucks but not automotive. My jack is 48 inches long for reference. Point me in the right direction if you can.
 
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ajchien

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Not sure if you would be willing to rebuild your current jack, or to look for an equivalent in the local used market...

For a brand new jack, maybe look into:

Weaver 72B 2 ton is a long chassis 51” in length. http://www.castleequipment.com/Jacks/service_jacks_by_weaver.htm

Or compromise a few inches for something more “modern”, look at the Omega 29023 which is 40” in length.
 
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mrmineo1

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I had mine rebuild probably 8-10 years ago by the local hydraulic rebuilding company they said its a good jack but wouldn't fix it again and I have no idea why. They said it was a viking jack but I don't know if that's a brand I haven't been able to find any thing on it. I would try it myself but have no idea where to even begin getting parts. I really like the jack and would fix it again. Years ago I had a hein-werner also but when a buddy and I moved to our own garages he took that one and I took this one.
 

Shelbylex

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MrMineo, depending on the budget you can either go Weaver or if you are ready to pay more, may be go for a Blackhawk S4 (it's hard to find one in working condition, but I periodically see the ones needing rebuilds for around $100. The kit and the rebuild are probably expensive (if somebody did it, please put in the price - if I remember correctly, somebody put price around $200-250 for a kit and it was expensive to put in because it required some Blackhawk special tool). Then you will have a restored dream!
I have a vintage Weaver in the garage. I will try to reassess it in the spring when it gets warmer to see if the hydraulic unit can be fixes. If not, I will probably try to locate a Blackhawk S4.

What jack do you have? May be it's worth a rebuild?
 
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mrmineo1

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No idea what brand it is, but here's some pics. The fluid comes out of the middle thing on top of the cylinder.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/51685286@N02/50654222723/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_1604"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50654222723_c7d156dcc4_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_1604"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/51685286@N02/50654222693/in/photostream/" title="IMG_1605"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50654222693_846014d81e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_1605"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/51685286@N02/50654222658/in/photostream/" title="IMG_1606"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50654222658_68356dd628_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_1606"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 

ajchien

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I don’t recognize your jack, but I’d bet someone on this forum can give it an ID as long as we keep bumping the thread to the top.

The black thing on top of the red cylinder is simply a rubber plug that can be pulled/pryed out. It is plugging the fill hole for the hydraulic oil reservoir. I would pull it out and see if the hole has any threads in it. If the hole has threads on it, then it might have originally come with an “air vent” of some sort. If there are no threads, then it is simply a fill hole rubber plug - Measure the size of the hole, and just head to Amazon and search for “floor jack filler plug” and you should be able to find replacements.
 
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mrmineo1

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I guess my description wasn't the greatest, the fluid doesn't come out of the fill plug it comes out of the big nut with the screw in the middle where the three plugs are in a row.

-Nick
 

ajchien

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I guess my description wasn't the greatest, the fluid doesn't come out of the fill plug it comes out of the big nut with the screw in the middle where the three plugs are in a row.

-Nick

Of course the answer wouldn’t be so easy, lol.

I looked over at HCRCnow’s website at the Viking jack list. This is the closest Viking I could find:

https://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/viking301hc.pdf

It is not your jack as the hydraulic block in the link has only 2 “valve ports” compared to your jack that has 3 ports.

By the pictures you posted, it looks like your jacks has a single pump piston, and I presume that there is no “quick lift” system associated with it? And does oil leak out of it all the time, during pumping, when lifted or during release? (This could help figuring out what the middle valve port is)

If you can wait, I think it would be prudent to see if someone can ID the jack and come up with the proper schematic diagram, so that you’re prepared for what’s inside.

If no one can come up with a diagram, and you decide to open the nut to look for a broken/weak seal beneath it ... 1) be careful of small balls, springs, weights, or other pieces (that have a tendency to want to escape, fall on the floor and roll to the dark corners of the garage) and keep them in the proper order. And 2) if there is another screw head underneath, don’t mess with it as it is likely setting spring tension for an overload safety valve.
 
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mrmineo1

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It is a flexible rod, its like a really long flexible socket extension i guess. That part number you gave me made me able to figure out what it is. Its

apparently a 3 ton
https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/product/7044

but there's also a 6 ton

https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/product/7045

I'm assuming I have the 3 ton but have no idea how to tell the difference. I'm going to take that thing out and replace a few o rings I have an assortment in the garage for AC so we will see what happens. With that part number I found out its Swedish and Nike was the actual manufacturer. I guess they were sold as a Coats, Watco or a Viking in the US. I even found a German website dedicated to them (good thing for google translate)

http://www.nike-wagenheber.de/
 

Bogie1632

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I beat the snot out of some Hein-Werner and Lincoln 4T floor jacks over the years. Always held up very well for the amount of use they got (a couple shops I was stationed at had no vehicle lifts). Not the cheapest out there but they good Jack's.

Hopefully you can just get your sorted and keep the oil in.

Good luck.

V/R
Bogie
 

paulsomlo

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It is a flexible rod, its like a really long flexible socket extension i guess. That part number you gave me made me able to figure out what it is. Its

apparently a 3 ton
https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/product/7044

but there's also a 6 ton

https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/product/7045

I'm assuming I have the 3 ton but have no idea how to tell the difference. I'm going to take that thing out and replace a few o rings I have an assortment in the garage for AC so we will see what happens. With that part number I found out its Swedish and Nike was the actual manufacturer. I guess they were sold as a Coats, Watco or a Viking in the US. I even found a German website dedicated to them (good thing for google translate)

http://www.nike-wagenheber.de/

It appears that the cylinder bores and the ram diameters differ - the ram diameter would be the easier of the two measurements, of course.

Amazing, that you were able to find that German website. That's a nice jack, and definitely worth rebuilding. That kit you linked has about $2 worth of o rings, and the two larger seals are probably industry standard. The only one that might be proprietary is the small piston cup. If you search on member "Hiball", he has a hydraulic supply outfit listed in his signature that might have those seals individually.
 

Hiball

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That model is a single pump/quick lift jack. It has a smaller cylinder that runs inside the Main Ram.. Im definitely more familiar with the single stage 301hc models, come to think of it I’ve only had a couple of those in the shop over the years. I would first make sure that the bigger outside nut is tight on the center valve, the inside adjustment is for the quick lift IRC. It’s something simple, rest assured.
 

paulsomlo

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That model is a single pump/quick lift jack. It has a smaller cylinder that runs inside the Main Ram.. Im definitely more familiar with the single stage 301hc models, come to think of it I’ve only had a couple of those in the shop over the years. I would first make sure that the bigger outside nut is tight on the center valve, the inside adjustment is for the quick lift IRC. It’s something simple, rest assured.

Two concentric cylinders - pretty clever. And all four balls in the same working valve.

Hiball - in the link I posted above, what's the function of parts 23, 24, and 25?
 

ajchien

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This should help: https://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/viking303hcfloorjack3ton.pdf

Looks like there are three o rings (30, 32, and 35) - I would start by taking a look at those. Not sure if the two threaded plugs need some sealant on them or not.

Its apparently a 3 ton
https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/product/7044
but there's also a 6 ton
https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/product/7045

I'm assuming I have the 3 ton but have no idea how to tell the difference. I'm going to take that thing out and replace a few o rings I have an assortment in the garage for AC so we will see what happens. With that part number I found out its Swedish and Nike was the actual manufacturer. I guess they were sold as a Coats, Watco or a Viking in the US. I even found a German website dedicated to them (good thing for google translate)

http://www.nike-wagenheber.de/

Whoa! That’s a great find of the parts breakdown!

That model is a single pump/quick lift jack. It has a smaller cylinder that runs inside the Main Ram.. Im definitely more familiar with the single stage 301hc models, come to think of it I’ve only had a couple of those in the shop over the years. I would first make sure that the bigger outside nut is tight on the center valve, the inside adjustment is for the quick lift IRC. It’s something simple, rest assured.

Two concentric cylinders - pretty clever. And all four balls in the same working valve.

Hiball - in the link I posted above, what's the function of parts 23, 24, and 25?

First time I’ve seen a valve system look like this also. It’s really neat.

I would propose that 23-25 could be a side circuit to passively allow oil from the reservoir to enter the “larger outer portion” of the main ram cylinder via “vacuum/suction”, while the pump is pushing oil into the “small inner portion” during the “first stage/quick lift”?
 
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Hiball

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Two concentric cylinders - pretty clever. And all four balls in the same working valve.

Hiball - in the link I posted above, what's the function of parts 23, 24, and 25?

Well, Since the jack essentially utilizes two cylinders (until the high side bypasses), it requires two separate ball/seats to hold cylinder pressure in between strokes.
 

Hiball

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First time I’ve seen a valve system look like this also. It’s really neat.

I would propose that 23-25 could be a side circuit to passively allow oil from the reservoir to enter the “larger outer portion” of the main ram cylinder via “vacuum/suction”, while the pump is pushing oil into the “small inner portion” during the “quick lift” activation?

Im trying to figure out what ball 29 is trying to do...?

The Single stage Shinn fu (magic lift) jacks use a similar system, Basically any of the Single pump quick lift jacks use similar technology.

#29 more than likely plays a role is deterring oil towards the main cylinder, versus towards the quick lift bypass once pressure builds.
 
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mrmineo1

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I think its fixed! I took it apart last night and replaced a few of those o rings, then put it back together making sure everything was the same and that big nut was tight. Jacked a car up some and left it over night no puddle and it didn't lose pressure like it was. I got so annoyed with it the other day when I was changing spark plugs in a Subaru and had to keep giving it a pump to keep the engine up. I always wondered what the sudden jerk in the handle was when I am first jacking something up, it must be the high side bypassing. Thanks for the help everyone.
 
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