Component ID help

[Arne73]

Does anyone recognize this electronic component? Its on the neutral side of a 1400W pannini press that until last night was working fine. The component reads open and when installed is attached to the bottom plate. Screwdriver is pointing at it in the picture.
I'm guessing that its a one time thermal device. It's so f*king small i can't make out the writing on it.
If anyone knows it would be helpful.

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[Mike Folks]

Guessing,a thermal fuse?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

since its on the bottom, a thermal fuse could be the case however im curious why the fuse would be on the neutral side and not on the hot side.

 

[Arne73]

Correction, you guys are correct the device is on the hot side.

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[Certified Drunk]

It's a thermistor or thermal resistor.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

Thermal cut off fuse..... Jump it out and see if the hot plate gets hot.

 

[dogdog]

another vote for thermal cutoff fuse... it's self resetting, but they do go bad. so check continuity when normal temp, and the contacts will open when it has reach it's designed temperature... it's about $1.50 item but you have to match temperature, amp and volt rating... it is very common in coffee makers , cheap motors etc.

 

[Copymutt]

Thermistor changes resistance w/ temperature to control temp. Thermofuse will be in power line or control line to open the circuit if overtemp.

 

[nadogail]

Yes, IMHO, it is a thermal fuse.

 

[Meursault74]

Thermal cut off fuse..... Jump it out and see if the hot plate gets hot.

Yes, it's a thermal fuse.

If you remove it and connect the wires, you'll see if the rest of the system works, but be stand by to unplug if necessary if things get too hot.

I've replaced these in espresso machines and bathroom heaters. You'll need to match the temperature rating on the fuse. A magnifying glass is your friend.

When you replace it, don't solder it.......... it's a thermal fuse, you'll blow it.

 

[Dustball]

This will help you out- just need to narrow down the temp and current rating.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products...uq4pDIBWEATladkEBMkgzdkOwAWOHwAtpgABCiWuMziQA

 

[Arne73]

Thank you all for the advice and the link.
This was the "one more thing" this week and I lost my patience with it, Google and the dead battery in my fluke.
I really appreciate the help.

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[Innovate1]

Yes, it's a thermal fuse.

If you remove it and connect the wires, you'll see if the rest of the system works, but be stand by to unplug if necessary if things get too hot.

I've replaced these in espresso machines and bathroom heaters. You'll need to match the temperature rating on the fuse. A magnifying glass is your friend.

When you replace it, don't solder it.......... it's a thermal fuse, you'll blow it.

What's a good way to connect these? Most are welded in place originally from what I have seen although some have crimp connections. I have thought about cutting off the crimp portion for a eyelet connector end but thinking the heat cycling may loosen it.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

What's a good way to connect these? Most are welded in place originally from what I have seen although some have crimp connections. I have thought about cutting off the crimp portion for a eyelet connector end but thinking the heat cycling may loosen it.

The OPs has crimp connections but if you need it welded, get some high temperature solder...

 

[dogdog]

It really is supposedly mechanical connection only on these type of things, and not Solder.

for me.. I have a lot of those old school "I think" it's a 14-22gauge maybe even next size smaller... terminal (spade) connectors and lob off the connector end with a cutter and just used the crimped end to connect them back.

 

[Arne73]

It really is supposedly mechanical connection only on these type of things, and not Solder.

for me.. I have a lot of those old school "I think" it's a 14-22gauge maybe even next size smaller... terminal (spade) connectors and lob off the connector end with a cutter and just used the crimped end to connect them back.

That's my plan. 240°C but I only want to do it once.

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[dogdog]

That's my plan. 240°C but I only want to do it once.

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that would dependent on the life of your component and how you crimp those components. adding solder... I am not sure why manufacture don't use them .. or if a mechanical one ever came off because of mechanical things.

this is the pic I have from the Drill press motor I wanted to make my motor reversible thread way back then, sorry I don't have the pic of the coffee maker I fix same way.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=361242

 

[Innovate1]

A lot of these are spot welded into place in the equipment manufacture process. It happens very quickly so as to not overheat the part. Most of us don't have a spot welder so not easy to do. I have also thought of using the crimp part of a connector...

 

[Arne73]

I just purchased the replacement thermal fuse and plan to use cut down terminal lugs to crimp.

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[ttpete]

You can solder it if you clamp a big hemostat on the lead to act as a heat sink.

 

[Innovate1]

You can solder it if you clamp a big hemostat on the lead to act as a heat sink.

True. You could also use needle nose pliers with a large rubber band on the handles to keep it holding on the lead or a vice grip set to very low force. Basically you want some large piece of metal between the soldering iron and the device to block the heat.

 

[dogdog]

You can solder it if you clamp a big hemostat on the lead to act as a heat sink.

True. You could also use needle nose pliers with a large rubber band on the handles to keep it holding on the lead or a vice grip set to very low force. Basically you want some large piece of metal between the soldering iron and the device to block the heat.

I don't think the problem is the heat during the soldering. It usually don't damage components that easily when done properly. Unless you leave the iron there for a longer time than necessary. those components that are expose to heat and mechanical vibration requires mechanical joint for some reason. I don't know what.