Ripping aluminum

[Rod N]

I have these pieces of aluminum that I want to use as drawer pulls for my workbench.
Would like to rip off the right side edge.
Can I use my table saw? Or even my tile saw?
I’d like a clean cut and not lose a finger.
Any ideas guys?

 

[Tom Sestito]

You can use your table saw no problem, you will likely have to file or sand the edge to get a good clean cut.

It will be very loud.

 

[loganb]

Table saw should do a nice job, for a couple pieces of thin stuff like that i personally wouldn't bother getting a blade designed for non ferrous material. Be sure to wear long sleeves and a face shield, it makes nasty chips

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[LeonardY]

Table saw is fine. If you have a band saw that's better.
Use a carbide blade and wear a full face shield. Aluminum chips hurt.

 

[Rod N]

Can I use the blade I use for wood?
I think it’s not too fine, but not to coarse.
(Sorry. I just went to check and it buried. Lol)

 

[Spareparts]

Lubricate the cut with candle wax or something simular, maybe WD-40 to lubricate the blade, it will keep the Alu chips from sticking to the blade teeth

 

[Rod N]

Lubricate the cut with candle wax or something simular, maybe WD-40 to lubricate the blade, it will keep the Alu chips from sticking to the blade teeth

Can I just apply this at the beginning or do I have to keep lubing it while cutting?

 

[rburke65]

You might be able to score the piece with the table the bend it to break it, then file.

 

[jake28]

Can I just apply this at the beginning or do I have to keep lubing it while cutting?

At beginning should be fine. Also, the aluminum chips will be a wee bit warm. Consider giving the table saw a quick vacuum before cutting.

 

[Rod N]

I’ll be doing this outside and it’s Getty chilly here.

 

[Sevenhills1952]

My carpenter friend when he cuts metal on table saw or Skil saw flips blade around backwards. I recommend ear muffs.

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[nadogail]

I have cut Steel, Aluminium, Plastic, Wood & Fingers with the carbide tipped blade on my table saw.

 

[techieman33]

Table saw is fine. Use a fine tooth carbide blade, and rub some wax on it as a lubricant. Wear hearing protection and take it slow.

 

[Mick56]

I cut some steel siding once and used a fine tooth blade in my skilsaw. I put in earplugs, and wore earmuffs over them. It was still so loud my ears hurt.

 

[Spareparts]

If you use a Skilsaw tape the bottom plate with duck tape, no overlap, smooth it will glide smooth and not mar the metal up.

 

[EricS]

Couple things to add,
Use a carbide tooth blade but look at the shape of the cutting edge. You want a straight cutting edge( aka flat top grind) vs a concave cutting edge where the outside edges cut first.

A lubricant wax stick does a great job and I also find it better when tapping and drilling( less messy than cutting oil on the drill press.

A cabinet scraper is a fast way to deburr the edge.

Ear plugs inside headphone style hearing protection.

Long sleeve shirt with cuffs taped up then gloves, full face shield and baseball cap backwards,
tube style neck warmer. The chips get everywhere and are hot and sharp.

 

[Firebrick43]

My carpenter friend when he cuts metal on table saw or Skil saw flips blade around backwards. I recommend ear muffs.

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This is really only a tip for coarse framing blade with thin sheet metal such as r panel(barn metal). If cutting extrusion should be a higher tooth count (40+ on a 10” blade) and facing the right direction.

 

[Innovate1]

I use a 40 to 60 tooth (can't remember but somewhere in that range) carbide tip blade made for wood on thin aluminum (0.040"). Works fine. A file run down the edges a couple times smooths it up nicely. Make sure the aluminum is guided and held well. If the blade grabs the material it will not be pretty - for cross cutting thin shapes I made wood pieces that fit inside to keep it from deforming. Your material looks thicker so much less of an issue. I would use finger boards and make sure you have a good push stick. The start is easy to hold at that point and very controllable so ease the end into the blade to start. If everything looks good then continue.

 

[CraigStu]

I wouldn't use a table saw. Too dang scary for me. The chance of that thing becoming missile is too great. I'd cut it into 5 inch pieces on the table saw but use band saw or skil saw to split it lengthwise.

 

[Rod N]

Ya. My biggest concern is holding it down while cutting.

 

[pepi]

Ya. My biggest concern is holding it down while cutting.

I wise concern, and is why a bandsaw is a better option.

 

[Black300zx]

Ya. My biggest concern is holding it down while cutting.

Given the small size, this was my knee jerk reaction as well. I assume that you'll be drilling holes in the extrusions to mount them? If so, drill the holes now and l fasten it to a wider piece of sacrificial wood to give you something to hold onto. Cut through both then remove the extrusion

 

[LeonardY]

Do you have a jig saw? Get a non-ferrous blade. Set up a guide. Clamp the aluminum down.
It will be safer and less taxing on your nerves.

 

[Rod N]

Given the small size, this was my knee jerk reaction as well. I assume that you'll be drilling holes in the extrusions to mount them? If so, drill the holes now and l fasten it to a wider piece of sacrificial wood to give you something to hold onto. Cut through both then remove the extrusion

This is great advice!
(I don’t have a band saw)

 

[Firebrick43]

Holding it down is a concern but so should Wood?? A GRR-ripper and or some fence mounted feather boards should be in every table saw owners kit

 

[Rod N]

Let’s not forget these pieces are only 1-1/2” wide and I only want to trim 1/4” off

 

[jclem40c]

worked in an aluminum manufacturing mill for 20 years. We used a skill saw with wood blade on backwards and a lubricant in our case a stick wax but a candle should work. Go slow and wear a long sleeve shirt and eye protection.

 

[Black300zx]

Let’s not forget these pieces are only 1-1/2” wide and I only want to trim 1/4” off

Oh wow! Yeah, cutting that on a tablesaw without some kind of fixturing is begging for a kickback when you get to the last little bit. A push stick alone wouldn't hold it stable enough for my comfort.

 

[Spareparts]

I just read your original post again, what about inserting a board inside the piece to keep it stable and maybe a couple of screws in the side, use your table saw and rip fence. Probly need an extra set of hands for the outfeed, maybe cut it down to like 18" pieces be easier to handle.

 

[kap]

I like the idea of the blade installed backwards - I've done this on a few occasions using a plywood blade (110 - 140 teeth). Use a featherboard (or two) to hold the piece down and against the fence, and a push stick to move it forward. It does make a lot of noise though.

 

[jsaw]

At work, we cut aluminum like that all the time. We use a carbide tipped blade.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Do you have a jig saw? Get a non-ferrous blade. Set up a guide. Clamp the aluminum down.
It will be safer and less taxing on your nerves.

I used my jigsaw and WD-40 when I cut the aluminum sheet for the workbench top in my trailer.

 

[kwb]

Jesus - you guys will make anything complicated.

Any old carbide blade in a table saw is going to make quick work of this. Normal orientation, just run it. If you were doing several hundred feet, a bit of soap on the blade isn't a bad thing.

Fingerboard and/or sacrifical piece of wood that the extrusion is attached to will make it easier to handle.

The chips ****. I am not good about using glasses 100% of the time. When cutting aluminum like this 100%, always, every time.

 

[KenC]

I use a push block, short or long depending on the workpiece for all rips. Make something that looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083N9LBC8/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Use wood of your choice. 12-48" long. Make several different lengths. Holds work down and against the fence as well as allowing to to push with fingers clear.
I started with a commercially made version. Eventually the plastic got brittle so I made several from scrap plywood. Even a 2x4 will work. Just glue a little 'lip' on one end to serve as the pusher and a handle of any kind on top

edit: I have a nice variety of blades and this job would get a flat top ground 80 or 120 tooth carbide blade intended for laminates or solid surface cabinet tops. Realisticlly, 40 or better with a slow controlled feed rate will work.

 

[Jacko264]

How long will the parts be if only say about a metre then use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade and use a light oil to keep the blade clear and cool

 

[Rod N]

How long will the parts be if only say about a metre then use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade and use a light oil to keep the blade clear and cool

6 pieces around 16" long.
I can't see myself getting a straight cut with a zigsaw.

 

[MoonRise]

Removing that little 'lip' on the right of the extrusion?

Router with a pattern cutting bit. Carbide bit. Full PPE. Some sort of jig/fixture to hold the aluminum so that your fingers are AWAY from the bit/blade.

A tablesaw with a carbide blade (a blade made for cutting aluminum would be best, but a 'standard' general purpose carbide blade will cut the aluminum) can work. Again, full PPE and rig up a jig/fixture to hold the aluminum so that your hands are AWAY from the blade. You will have aluminum chips EVERYWHERE afterwards. Go easy on the feed rate and let the blade cut and don't force the cut. Nope on installing a blade backwards.

Or sand the little lip off. Belt sander, angle grinder with a flap disc, random orbit sander, etc.

Or you can use a sharp chisel and pare off the lip. Probably have to resharpen the chisel afterwards.

A file (get a file made for use on aluminum and coat the teeth with chalk before and during use) will make pretty quick work on a few pieces of aluminum.

Full Garage Journal mode: You will need to go buy a milling machine.

 

[Renegade1LI]

For the best, safest cut use a nonferrous blade with a zero hook angle, wood blades unless run backwards have a tendency to chip as there meant to slice into the wood at a slight angle.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I use this blade in my table saw Amana Tool 510801C Electro Blu Carbide Tipped Aluminum and Non-Ferrous Metals 10 Inch D x 80T TCG, -6 Deg, 5/8 Bore, Non-Stick Coated Circular Saw Blade

 

[like2wheel]

Coming up on Christmas. Ask Santa for a water jet.

Problem solved