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parts washer cleaning solvent recommendations??

M6erfan

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Not sure why people recommend kerosene. When I use a parts washer, I want stuff to come out WITHOUT oil. What's the point when I have to go back over it with other solvents?

Oil film can have some utility, like acting as a protectant against flash rust. For nuts/screws/bolts it leaves the threads slightly lubricated. Generally I degrease parts that need it after the part washing process, I have an ultrasonic cleaner for that.
 
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mercifiknow

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Initial cleaning, especially inside should be varsol or similar material with a brush.


Vapor Blasting is a thing used by my good friend John Connery who paints high level restoration motorcycles. Doesn't harm aluminum.

Depending on the surface texture and detail and your final desired look, you could also use WD40 (which will soak into the porous alum and mean you should keep using it to clean them from now on).

When I build alum panels for my car I use sandpaper in increasing grit numbers, lubed with WD40, then a Scotchbrite pad and finally stainless steel wool with....WD40. Not everyone's cup of tea but It's worked for me for 40 yrs.

Washing it / soaking in hot water will release the WD40 but it takes a bit of work.
Polished or smooth brushed finish loves Mothers Billet polish as a final step by hand or one of their sponge based drill attachments.



****! Those pics...Way above my pay grade...

What time can I expect you today to work on my engine bay??? You can eat lunch with us...ribs, fries, and salad... [emoji23]

The surface is extremely important so I can’t damage it and I’m not exactly sure how to keep it. There’s a trick to it and no one has told me on the Mercedes forums how to do it yet.
IMG_0012.jpg


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mercifiknow

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My dad was a diesel mechanic for years and would use gasoline and diesel. Diesel was by far the most he used I think do to “safety”.


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tulowd

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****! Those pics...Way above my pay grade...

What time can I expect you today to work on my engine bay??? You can eat lunch with us...ribs, fries, and salad... [emoji23]

The surface is extremely important so I can’t damage it and I’m not exactly sure how to keep it. There’s a trick to it and no one has told me on the Mercedes forums how to do it yet.
IMG_0012.jpg


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lol thank You, I'm starting to get there...slowly.

I always make a point of getting duplicates and trying things out on the worse of the two. If you can get another valve cover, it may be worthwhile if it's not too much dough.

If you're not doing a concourse restoration, you can likely clean the cover on the engine with WD40 and some various sponges, etc. Will depend on whether this was coated or raw alum....or is it ...gulp.....die cast white metal? I would be shocked, but ya never know.

Final cleansing/finishing with the Mothers Billet cleaner by hand with a bunch of towels/microfiber or maybe cotton. Gotta try and see what works best IMHO.

That southern BBQ sounds awesome. I smoked a small brisket last week in between the snowfalls, getting improvement every time.
Should be a decent cook by 2030 lol.
 

mercifiknow

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lol thank You, I'm starting to get there...slowly.



I always make a point of getting duplicates and trying things out on the worse of the two. If you can get another valve cover, it may be worthwhile if it's not too much dough.



If you're not doing a concourse restoration, you can likely clean the cover on the engine with WD40 and some various sponges, etc. Will depend on whether this was coated or raw alum....or is it ...gulp.....die cast white metal? I would be shocked, but ya never know.



Final cleansing/finishing with the Mothers Billet cleaner by hand with a bunch of towels/microfiber or maybe cotton. Gotta try and see what works best IMHO.



That southern BBQ sounds awesome. I smoked a small brisket last week in between the snowfalls, getting improvement every time.

Should be a decent cook by 2030 lol.




Thanks for the tips!

It’s trying to be concourse restoration. But we’ll see...

I cooked brisket one time and will it was good. it wasn’t great by any standard. I blame the rub...way too salty.

BTW, we are a family of three...let me know when the brisket is ready! [emoji23]


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M6erfan

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Thanks for the tips!

It’s trying to be concourse restoration. But we’ll see...

I cooked brisket one time and will it was good. it wasn’t great by any standard. I blame the rub...way too salty.

BTW, we are a family of three...let me know when the brisket is ready! [emoji23]


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From someone who restores cars and motorcycles. . . If you want that valve cover "correct", DO NOT polish it. Cleaning with mineral spirits will get it nice. Soda blasting will get it REALLY nice without altering the original finish. Taking it any further will modify the original factory look.

It just depends on what you're going for.
 
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M6erfan

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The surface is extremely important so I can’t damage it and I’m not exactly sure how to keep it. There’s a trick to it and no one has told me on the Mercedes forums how to do it yet.
IMG_0012.jpg

No trick involved. For me it would be a good degrease followed by soda blast. Simple.
 
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Bigmo1

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Used a 60/40 mix of mineral spirits/paint thinner and kero...works well, doesnt leave a film, blow dries well. I guess the thinner cuts the kero oil. Anyway, works for me

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mercifiknow

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Yes definitely NOT polishing it. Didn’t know about soda blasting it...at least for it.

I guess it’s a more “gentle” abrasive? Rather that some other media?


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mercifiknow

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From someone who restores cars and motorcycles. . . If you want that valve cover "correct", DO NOT polish it. Cleaning with mineral spirits will get it nice. Soda blasting will get it REALLY nice without altering the original finish. Taking it any further will modify the original factory look.

It just depends on what you're going for.



Use a nylon brush to agitate the surface with mineral spirits (or in combination with something as suggested by other knowledgeable people here)?


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M6erfan

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Yes definitely NOT polishing it. Didn’t know about soda blasting it...at least for it.

I guess it’s a more “gentle” abrasive? Rather that some other media?


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Yes, soda is very gentle and generally will not alter the original surface. Vapor blasting is a newer technology and may or may not alter the original finish, I don't know enough about it. Also, soda dissolves in water so no worries about leaving 'grit' behind which may find its way into sensitive areas. I have had excellent results with soda blasting for cleaning parts that I want to be as close as possible to 'original'.
 
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M6erfan

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Use a nylon brush to agitate the surface with mineral spirits (or in combination with something as suggested by other knowledgeable people here)?


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A soft nylon brush is a good choice, just stay away from metal brushes (brass, copper, steel. . .)
 
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