toilet on bare concrete?

[scattermaster]

SO,
new shop. new concrete floor.
I bought a rear flush toilet that will go out through the wall. When i was doing the trial fit, I found out that the bottom is not exactly flat. It rocks a little bit.
I was concerned about putting the ceramic toilet directly on the concrete.
Looking for opinions.
The hole is already cut in the wall so I don't want to put anything that will raise it very much. Most of the vinyl flooring I see is like a quarter inch thick.
That won't do.
Roll vinyl (linoleum) is only sold on 12 ft wide rolls. My room will be about 5ft. x 7 or 8ft. I thought I wanted to avoid having a seam but that means a pretty expensive piece that I have to buy.
I found the stick on squares of vinyl but the instructions say not to use on concrete??
Would I be OK with just putting the toilet on the concrete with some silicone or similar ?

 

[mepstein]

edit - nevermind

 

[MileHighRover]

I had a toilet installed in my basement on bare concrete prior to having the basement finished. No issues at all. Our floor wasn't level either, so I used plastic wedges made for leveling a toilet.

 

[strutaeng]

Just use some cementitous product to fill any gaps around. Tile grout can also be use.

I did that on 2 toilets that got slate. The slate thickness is not consistent and I had gaps and filled them with something I had at hand. Worked great.

 

[rlitman]

Use shims to stop it from rocking, and then caulk around it.

 

[wssix99]

Toilet wedges/shims. They are for this and sold in every hardware store.

 

[nadogail]

Home Depot sells them also.

 

[paredown]

El cheapo here-I've been known to use spare pieces of plastic cutlery, and then caulk. Level on the bowl front to back and side to side.

Of course the heart of the fit is getting the wax seal nice...

 

[ddawg16]

I have a method that has never failed me.

I flip the bowl upside down and run a generous 1/4" bead of white or clear silicone along the bottom surface. I leave a 2" gap at the very back just in case there is a leak...if I see water or **** coming out there, I know where the issue is.

I let it sit for about 45 months or so until the silicone is no long tacky.

Put in the wax seal...set toilet.

Key point...snug down the bolt, but not tight. You should see silicone squeeze out.

Real important. Walk away....leave it for at least 24 hours...enough time to cure.

Then, have someone have a seat and tighten the bolts.

Works every time

 

[The Cobbler]

I have a method that has never failed me.

I flip the bowl upside down and run a generous 1/4" bead of white or clear silicone along the bottom surface. I leave a 2" gap at the very back just in case there is a leak...if I see water or **** coming out there, I know where the issue is.

I let it sit for about 45 months or so until the silicone is no long tacky.

Put in the wax seal...set toilet.

Key point...snug down the bolt, but not tight. You should see silicone squeeze out.

Real important. Walk away....leave it for at least 24 hours...enough time to cure.

Then, have someone have a seat and tighten the bolts.

Works every time

That's an awfully long time to go without a crapper! LOL

 

[strutaeng]

That's an awfully long time to go without a crapper! LOL

LOL. That was funny!

 

[ddawg16]

That's an awfully long time to go without a crapper! LOL

Well....the flower garden needs water now and then

Back when we only had the one bathroom....and 3 small kids...more than once I've sent the kids out into the back to take a piss

 

[lml999]

Well....the flower garden needs water now and then

Back when we only had the one bathroom....and 3 small kids...more than once I've sent the kids out into the back to take a piss

My wife grew up in polite company and doesn't understand why it's important to be able to take a piss off the back of the deck.

 

[Glemon]

Toilet shims, didn't know there was such a thing. I mounted a toilet on a slightly uneven tile floor, plastic shims and caulk, fine after 3 years. Have a basement toilet mounted on bare concrete, slightly uneven, toilet is green, not avacodo green like the 70s, mint green like the 60s, still works fine no leaks. Don't have to worry about the wood rotting from seepage with a concrete install.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Usually you set them in plaster of paris,dry fit & trace then set it into the mix with a gentle twist, let it set then caulk. This is in addition to using a new wax ring & johnny bolts, if you are setting on tile use matching grout instead of the plaster.

 

[glentre]

Back in another life in my younger years I was in the plumbing business. I installed many toilets directly on concrete or vinyl tile using plumbers putty. Trace a pencil line around the toilet once it is in place, remove it and roll up a snake of putty about an inch in diameter and lay it in a continuous strip on the pencil line. Then sit on the bowl to squeeze out the putty and tighten up the bolts. Use a knife to cut the putty away from the bowl. More will squeeze out in a day or two so another trimming may be needed. Never got a single call back with any problem. Leaving a small gap in the putty at the rear is a wise thing to do.

Glen

 

[Mark price]

SO,

new shop. new concrete floor.

I bought a rear flush toilet that will go out through the wall. When i was doing the trial fit, I found out that the bottom is not exactly flat. It rocks a little bit.

I was concerned about putting the ceramic toilet directly on the concrete.

Looking for opinions.

The hole is already cut in the wall so I don't want to put anything that will raise it very much. Most of the vinyl flooring I see is like a quarter inch thick.

That won't do.

Roll vinyl (linoleum) is only sold on 12 ft wide rolls. My room will be about 5ft. x 7 or 8ft. I thought I wanted to avoid having a seam but that means a pretty expensive piece that I have to buy.

I found the stick on squares of vinyl but the instructions say not to use on concrete??

Would I be OK with just putting the toilet on the concrete with some silicone or similar ?

Question for you. I am in the same situation with trying out a rear dump
Toilet What brand did you get and where from. The only one I found reasonable price is from Home Depot and I have ordered it 3 times with it coming in broken each time

 

[Will Allen]

My wife grew up in polite company and doesn't understand why it's important to be able to take a piss off the back of the deck.

Same with my old lady. I still take a leak outside all the time here. I tell her it's a guy thing.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Grind the high spots in the concrete until you have a level surface.

 

[brownbagg]

non shrink grout

 

[Flail]

My method. Place toilet. Outline with pencil. Remove toilet and butter bottom of toilet, well, with butter, of course. Now mix thin=set kinda thick.(would that be thick-set?) Place the thin-set on the concrete just inside the pencil line where it would contact the lower rim. Jostle the toilet around with a level on top of the bowl to make it, well, level. Clean up the seam with your finger and momma’s favorite washcloth. Let thin-set cure for a few hours. The toilet won’t rock and won’t be glued to the floor due to the butter.

 

[mrpizza]

My wife grew up in polite company and doesn't understand why it's important to be able to take a piss off the back of the deck.

My wife hates that I do this. Neighbors are way far away and cannot see me anyways. I can guarantee I have peed in the yard more than I have in the bathroom at this house.

 

[spudley]

And if you still want to use self stick tiles on concrete, I've had good success setting them in mastic meant for regular tiles.

 

[kngelv]

I’m wondering why you would not take the toilet back and get a level one? I bought two American Standards from Home Depot. Neither was level and both had factory repairs underneath. Took them back and bought two Toto Drake II’s from a supply house. Perfectly level and no porcelain repairs.

James

 

[rburke65]

My toilet in the basement isn’t level and the seat/lid don’t always stay ‘up’....a real pain. I might have to do this ...using the shims.

 

[SALIV8]

Use shims to stop it from rocking, and then caulk around it.

+1

But I caulk around the front only, leaving most of the sides and rear untouched to show a leak.

And I use this on concrete and tile: https://www.homedepot.com/p/NEXT-by-Danco-Perfect-Seal-Toilet-Wax-Ring-with-Bolts-10826X/206393853

 

[rlitman]

+1

But I caulk around the front only, leaving most of the sides and rear untouched to show a leak.

And I use this on concrete and tile: https://www.homedepot.com/p/NEXT-by-Danco-Perfect-Seal-Toilet-Wax-Ring-with-Bolts-10826X/206393853

Except that there is no drain under this rear flush toilet, so caulk away. But yeah, otherwise I used to recommend a horseshoe of caulk. Not just to show a leak, but also because cutting the rear caulk to remove the toilet is a pain in the ****.

 

[scattermaster]

Question for you. I am in the same situation with trying out a rear dump
Toilet What brand did you get and where from. The only one I found reasonable price is from Home Depot and I have ordered it 3 times with it coming in broken each time

Mark,
I bought the toilet on Amazon!
It's sold by by Signature Hardware.
$289 and free shipping.

Signature Hardware 941039 Ebler 1.6/0.8 GPF Two Piece Elongated Toilet with Rear Outlet - Seat

 

[scattermaster]

I’m wondering why you would not take the toilet back and get a level one? I bought two American Standards from Home Depot. Neither was level and both had factory repairs underneath. Took them back and bought two Toto Drake II’s from a supply house. Perfectly level and no porcelain repairs.

James

James,
I needed my plumbing to exit through the wall. It does not go through the slab. I couldn't find any rear outlet toilets in any brick and mortar stores.
SO, I ordered it on Amazon. It would be a pita to send back.
I'll do like some of the guys suggested and shim and caulk.

 

[theoldwizard1]

They make special plastic shims for toilets to installed on concrete. Caulk the gap or "old school", plumber putty. Did at my sons house about 10 years a go. Solid today.