Need Critique of Loft Plan

[GRivera]

I plan to add a small loft to my 30x40' pole barn, with the left side of the loft against a wall. The loft will be 7x16', and 6 feet from the floor. I plan 6x6" posts on the ends with 2x6" bracing at the corners to avoid raking. The 6x6" will be bolted to the cement floor using base caps. I already have the ledger board in place - its 2 2x8" lumber, doubled up and lag bolted together. Because it's a short span, I intend to use 2x6" joists 16" OC, using joist hangers with a double 2x8" rim joist, lag bolted between each joist, and resting on notched 6x6" posts. I plan to use it for storage of tote containers and such - not really heavy items.

Will a doubled 2x8" safely span the 16'? Will bracing the corners keep the loft from raking? See attached pic of ledger board and a sketch of the loft plan. I welcome all suggestions.

 

[yeldogt]

Why not design a shelf higher up just for 1 deep ... That's what I do. This way I can see the front of the tote and pull down when you need. Buy the big totes and make the shelf to fit them.

I would not like that at 6' -- too low. I had a property where the previous owner built a deep one .... real pain to get anything from the back ... hated the posts. Ends up with junk and dust

 

[GRivera]

Why not design a shelf higher up just for 1 deep ... That's what I do. This way I can see the front of the tote and pull down when you need. Buy the big totes and make the shelf to fit them.

I would not like that at 6' -- too low. I had a property where the previous owner built a deep one .... real pain to get anything from the back ... hated the posts. Ends up with junk and dust

I should have mentioned my plan is to put totes a few deep and climb up there if I needed something. I may store other items up there too - nothing too heavy but I suppose collectively there will be significant weight.

 

[GRivera]

Any other comments regarding clear span with the dbl 2x8

 

[DJF3]

Not at all comparable, but I built a pole barn with 12 ft between the posts. My beam is a 4 ply 2x10 and it's under code by 4". I'm only allowed to span 11'8" on a 4 ply 2x10! I would do a 3 ply 2x8, and have your bracing tie into it at least 2 ft out. That way you only have a 12ft span. I would also do 2x6 12" on center, with at least 1/2" plywood. It seems overkill, and you say nothing heavy will go up there, but what about the next guy?

 

[GRivera]

Thanks- good points

 

[Trm303]

I have a 25’ full width loft in my shop that is 6’ deep. I used 2 2x12 beams sistered together with the same sized beam for joists. The beams sit on jacks and are also lagged to the wall studs, joists are only lagged and nailed to wall studs. I have no idea if it’s up to code or what the weight capacity looks like but I can jump up and down on top and it doesn’t move at all. Joists are 16” on center with 5/8 ply and it feels rock solid. I will admit a buddy at the local lumber yard hooked me up with the lumber, but normally the yard has a lot of cutoffs and older beams they let go for around $1/foot which is way cheaper than any other option I could find elsewhere with lumber prices where they are at. It might be worth checking your local yard

I agree with yeldogt the loft seems really low, I don’t know what you plan on putting under the loft but it seems like you have enough height to put it higher up, I’d rather have the height underneath the loft so you’re not limiting what you can use that space for.

I’m sure some more experienced builders might chime in, but I wouldn’t think you would need something as big as a 6x6 against the wall side. If you are lagging the loft to the wall studs of the building on both walls I wouldn’t think raking would be an issue either.


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[ddawg16]

What are you going to use it for?

 

[GRivera]

Mainly totes and boxes, Christmas decorations and such.

 

[ddawg16]

Mainly totes and boxes, Christmas decorations and such.

Then....personally, I'd go higher and less deep....go all the way across over the top of the window.

This way you could have ledger boards at each end to support a lot of weight..maybe one post in the middle.

At 4' deep, you don't waste any material....easier to access stuff....and the below area would make for a nice office/work bench area.

 

[yeldogt]

I should have mentioned my plan is to put totes a few deep and climb up there if I needed something. I may store other items up there too - nothing too heavy but I suppose collectively there will be significant weight.

I get the plan ....

It becomes a difficult and dangerous area. To get anything down you have to climb up and move the totes around .. it's you and the totes up there with no railing. If it's full of totes -- where do you go? You have to pull totes off ... or you have to leave space up there. Now -- you can't use all of what you built.

A proper shelf with shop made angles -- holds the shelf with no posts. The shelf is high enough so there is no light blockage under it. You just go up a ladder and pull the tote off .. making sure it is not too big or heavy. Those big totes full of stuff can be tricky on a ladder.

 

[GRivera]

I get the plan ....

It becomes a difficult and dangerous area. To get anything down you have to climb up and move the totes around .. it's you and the totes up there with no railing. If it's full of totes -- where do you go? You have to pull totes off ... or you have to leave space up there. Now -- you can't use all of what you built.

A proper shelf with shop made angles -- holds the shelf with no posts. The shelf is high enough so there is no light blockage under it. You just go up a ladder and pull the tote off .. making sure it is not too big or heavy. Those big totes full of stuff can be tricky on a ladder.

My thought process was to be able to walk on the loft in the event it was a large awkwardly shaped item and to move things if needed. To your point, space to walk is unused space. Seems pallet racking may have been a better plan.

 

[rsanter]

I would,do pallet racking the entire width of that wall

 

[GRivera]

The ledger board was installed prior to drywall and is attached to the 6x6 post in corner. I guess I can cut up the drywall for removal...damn I wish I would have researched pallet racks before.