I live in a 10 year old house with those cheapie modern hollow interior doors. There's one of these doors between the kitchen and laundry room, so a lot of the washer / dryer noise comes through the door, making my kitchen VERY noisy. Do these doors come in an insulated version?
interior hollow door with sound insulation?
- Thread starter Skobie
- Start date
dipper
Well-known member
you could replace it with a solid core door. that will provide more sound deadening.
dodgepolara500
Well-known member
replace it with a solid core door. Not too much more money than a hollow core. I redid my entire house with TM Cobb doors and they are much more substantial
Wingnut65
Well-known member
I agree! That's three for three on the solid core door.
If it still has some residual sound, consider weatherstripping on the frame.
If it still has some residual sound, consider weatherstripping on the frame.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
...or if you just HAVE to keep THAT specific door.... take the outer veneer off and fill it with insulation and glue the veneer back on.
Cryptic1911
Well-known member
or drill a hole in the top edge and fill it with sand through a funnel. it'll weigh like 300lbs, but it'll be sound deadened!
I was thinking maybe drill a hole in the top and fill it with the low-expansion great stuff foam? Would stiffen it up and add sound deadening. Would be cheap to try as an alternative to new doors.
krapie
Well-known member
Leave the door as is, attach acoustical tile to the laundry side of the door. Better yet, cover the laundry room wall with acoustical tiles.
RbrtAWhyt
Well-known member
Make the wife take it to the laundromat...
Zeke
Well-known member
Hollow core interior doors have a honeycomb of cardboard between the skins. You can't really fill them. Most of the sound travels through gaps. If you don't believe me, go out to your car, get in, roll the window down 1/8th inch and listen. Then roll it up tight. With the engine off, of course.
Laundry room noise can be transferred to the floor and walls too. See how much noise can be stopped with some towels stuffed under the door before doing anything else. Then consider placing the washer and dryer on rubber pads unless you have a slab house.
I turn the valve at the wall for the toilet down to the lowest noise level. It takes a little longer to fill the tank, but it's quiet. It doesn't take that long to fill 1.6 gal anyway. That trick might help with laundry noise as well.
Laundry room noise can be transferred to the floor and walls too. See how much noise can be stopped with some towels stuffed under the door before doing anything else. Then consider placing the washer and dryer on rubber pads unless you have a slab house.
I turn the valve at the wall for the toilet down to the lowest noise level. It takes a little longer to fill the tank, but it's quiet. It doesn't take that long to fill 1.6 gal anyway. That trick might help with laundry noise as well.
PassnThru
Well-known member
Have you heard of concrete countertops? I think concrete doors are the next big thing. Get ahead of the trend.
Really - buy a solid blank. No worries about tearing the old jamb out and it will be quieter.
tcianci
Well-known member
You may have some luck filling the door if it's a molded masonite panel type door. The flush style doors do have a paper honeycomb in them and that will prevent you from filling it. Your best bet would be swap it for a solid core door of the same style.
Zeke
Well-known member
So do molded doors last I saw one in a dumpster.
Laundry areas should be closer to bedrooms and closets than near kitchens or garages (of course)
Moving a laundry area upstairs (or closer to changing areas) is a life changing experience = no more clothing migration.
This has saved marriages - especially if the washer/dryer used to be in the garage - just saying...
Good luck,
John McA
Moving a laundry area upstairs (or closer to changing areas) is a life changing experience = no more clothing migration.
This has saved marriages - especially if the washer/dryer used to be in the garage - just saying...
Good luck,
John McA
carpenter383
Active member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2010
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- 43
Acustical tiles are you best bet for serious noise deadening.
You won't be able to fill the current door with insulation easilly cause of the previously mentioned "honeycomb"
A soilid core might help, but you still have a big gap at the floor.
You could put in an exterior door which would work better than any other door, but you have to remember the walls aren't insulated either.
You won't be able to fill the current door with insulation easilly cause of the previously mentioned "honeycomb"
A soilid core might help, but you still have a big gap at the floor.
You could put in an exterior door which would work better than any other door, but you have to remember the walls aren't insulated either.
cowboy73
Well-known member
You might also consider blowing cellulose insulation into the wall between the laundry room and kitchen. You'll have to patch some holes but it'll cut down on the noise.
28HopUp
Well-known member
We plan to move our laundry room upstairs to the non-used attic space over the garage. I plan to blow out the inside walls of a upper hallway linen closet to gain access. Aside from the benefit of dirty clothes no longer migrating downstairs, the old laundry room off the kitchen can be repurposed.
In terms of limiting noise, sealing the gaps around the existing door will help ALOT.