amkluttz
Well-known member
That, to me, is called stay inside by the fire weather!
Everything is turning out great and I'm looking forward to the progress.
Below 265 SQ/FT 10' x 22' Project – ‘Officina di Attrezzi Veloce’
- Thread starter Trapps
- Start date
All workspaces below 265 squarefeet.
That, to me, is called stay inside by the fire weather!
Everything is turning out great and I'm looking forward to the progress.
nicholam77
Well-known member
Wow, that is really great work! The drawers are looking good.
Sunny and 27 is not too bad. It's when it gets into the teens for me I am less likely to get out there.
I keep (way too many) scraps just for the reason of quick builds like your shelf. Annoying to keep around, but when it works out, super nice to have.
I thoroughly enjoy your commitment to Bosch tools and your OCD. The place is looking so clean and efficient.
I can't remember, do you have a small table saw or is it just the circular and track saw?
Can't wait to see more!
Sunny and 27 is not too bad. It's when it gets into the teens for me I am less likely to get out there.
I keep (way too many) scraps just for the reason of quick builds like your shelf. Annoying to keep around, but when it works out, super nice to have.
I thoroughly enjoy your commitment to Bosch tools and your OCD. The place is looking so clean and efficient.
I can't remember, do you have a small table saw or is it just the circular and track saw?
Can't wait to see more!
Thanks and me too!
...I thoroughly enjoy your commitment to Bosch tools and your OCD. The place is looking so clean and efficient.
I can't remember, do you have a small table saw or is it just the circular and track saw?
Can't wait to see more!
Negative on the table saw. I had a Jet Supersaw for a while but sold it. Some days I think I'd like another one, but space is a problem and now with the track saw there is less of a demand.
My Bosch commitment is really a function of the battery environment I chose. I could just as easily have been a Yellow, Red or Teal guy. I've always loved my Bosch Jigsaw, but before battery, that and a hammer drill were the only Blue tools I owned. Since making the Bosch 18V plunge, I've added 3 non battery Blue tools, the router table and 2 more hammer drills (medium and large). However, the number of 18V tools is a bit higher now and really skews my brand proliferation...
I'm running a Porter Cable Router in that Blue table. I have loved several corded Milwaukee drills over the years and I'll never not have a Red SuperSawzall! My miter saw, regular and worm circulars with tails, are all Yellow. A Ryobi scroll saw and 'new to me' Rikon bench-top drill press are both in the arsenal. I'm looking to replace a recently killed belt sander with a Teal product.
Although not yet completed, I'm happy with the shed as is, to date. The foundation is halfway through its second Michigan winter and everything is still level and straight. I am super happy with the roof which is handling rain and now snow just fine. All that remains is siding and windows; I just ran out of time and good weather so there she sits, waiting for me to man-up and go get it done. I'm still committed to the polygal style of windows (similar to this) and engineered Board & Batten siding. I'll be putting down a durable PU coating on the floor - I should have done this right away. Other than that, not many changes.
_________________
In other news, I have found the Garage Journal inspired Speed Shelf to be immediately useful. For me it is a noticeable improvement in space and time management. I think in part because I have a couple of projects going on and it’s allowing me to be more organized while working.
My first project piece on the new-to-me drill press was this bit holder that I'll keep on the Speed Shelf. I got the idea from GJ (can’t remember where), found this as one I liked and made my own. I chose my most often used driver bits plus a limited but common size range of drill bits. The Delve Square made layout absurdly easy and the diagonal pattern gives a bit more space in a smaller footprint. The best balance of the bits staying put even if knocked over, and ease of ingress/egress, was achieved with a 9/32 bit. I expect them to loosen up over time.
I did not mount the bit holder, it sits loosely up on the shelf so I can take it with me if needed.
Next, I raided my Grandfather's small parts storage rack for these shelf pegs and re-purposed them into a framing square holder by mounting them sideways to the wall. Simply slide the square up behind the pegs and let it sit back down on the trim as a ledger. Works great!
A simple ledger for the Speed Square nested in the Framing Square:
Finally, some detail work. I swapped in the 2nd gen rail connector holder, returning the screw-eyes to small parts bin. A stand-off on a panhead screw:
If you looked and saw it not perfectly level, you are correct.
There is only myself to blame; I guess the screw-eyes weren't level as I simply re-used those holes. I'll correct it once I relocate the rails to the ceiling.Cheers all!
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Please allow me to update my response; I forgot an issue I discovered after framing. In hindsight, I should have created soffits from lookouts (aka outriggers) as shown here:
I just scabbed them on. I'm not too worried about it as I used more lumber and fasteners than needed, in my non-professional, non-engineer DIY Hack opinion. It also sits in a fairly protected area. If I had it to do over....I'd do it correctly.
Thanks Bret! I like the simplicity and it can absolutely be used horizontally so it works in the future ceiling mount I'm envisioning. I can also profile them to not touch the rubber splinter guard.
nicholam77
Well-known member
The "speed shelf" as you call it is a great idea I think. I'm not a huge fan of entire walls of tools, but when I put some often used items like measuring and marking tools and screwdrivers on the wall I had an epiphany. It's amazing how often you grab for those things and not having them tucked in a drawer somewhere makes all the sense in the world (to me).
The shelf pin trick is particularly clever.
I really need to follow suit on the drill bit holder (nice job btw). I've used my drill press so much more than I thought I would, and it's the same thing... slowing me down constantly trying to find the appropriate bit.
It's actually some of these small improvements that have had the biggest impact on efficiency for me, I'm sure you'll find the same to be true!
The shelf pin trick is particularly clever.
I really need to follow suit on the drill bit holder (nice job btw). I've used my drill press so much more than I thought I would, and it's the same thing... slowing me down constantly trying to find the appropriate bit.
It's actually some of these small improvements that have had the biggest impact on efficiency for me, I'm sure you'll find the same to be true!
Thanks for the comments, Nick!
The Speed Shelf is morphing into a Speed Wall. In it's current configuration:
A few items had been in drawers and one new arrival from Woodpeckers or, as I occasionally refer to them, Picchio Rosso. So we have some progress to report. It's quickly becoming an evolutionary mini project with things rotating in and out plus various placement adjustments. I do have wall space planned out, but don't actually have the items I plan to mount there.
In the mean time I have been working on the L-Boxx ports which is its own project with certain component timing needs. I really wanted to keep the Tool Trundles but the current gen1 configuration A) was garbage from a functionality standpoint, and B) would not fit under the drill press inset. Because I have as much room on the left as I do on the right (behind the HF44's), I could make a single full length trundle. It ended up being 7' long. Simple OMG-has-plywood-gotten-expensive 15/32BC and some 2x6's ripped courtesy of the new track saw rig:
The trundles need to be completed before the L-Boxx ports can go in.
Here's a learning part. It seems my research on using a foreign market cordless power tool was not 100% complete. I overlooked a key detail, which I'll explain further on.
I reused the hardware and original casters that came on the HF44's. I couldn't use the HF44 handle though; it's too tall. A simple carcass:
One upgrade was the change in caster alignment. The end units are aligned just off the front and the center caster is aligned off the rear.
I also squared them up - something I just eyeballed on gen1. Not that these casters are precision units - hey look at the source - but anything to help it track straight would be good.
It is a subtle modification, but seems to work surprisingly well. The gen1 version would roll OK, but depending on load might tip forward or backward when rolling. But because the 'channel' behind the HF44's is tight-ish, nothing ever fell out and it wasn't a problem - just an annoyance in that I knew it could be better.
One hiccup was the 1⅛ counter sink holes for the washers and nuts which I planned to use a Forstner bit on. OK for the ends, but the center unit gave me clearance issues (I could not drill a straight/level hole) with my standard cordless drill. This guy saved me from having to take apart the carcass back:
I have not measured it, but the bit center to head housing clearance is noticeably smaller, allowing me to reach against the back.
Here it is in the extended or open position:
And here it is retracted or closed:
It needs a handle, something I'll need to ponder for a bit...
My 1st use with the track saw showed some results below both my expectation and intent for use. In their defense, this saw is most likely aimed at trades in EU and as a bit of a hybrid, shipping it with a 24T makes some sense. JGer's pointed to blades and I copped that Freud you'll see below. Here I discovered an irreconcilable difference - wrong sized arbor. OK, what options are available? Bosch makes this 56T with a better profile which ticks all the boxes on paper. Except cost. So I ordered a blade. From Europe.
So functionality was not an issue, just time and cost. I used Axminster Tools and the experience was bar-setting for an international tool acquisition. Fair prices, immediate and clear communication, impossibly fast shipping (2 days LON > DTW) via DHL. A+ on two shipments. I ran a few tests in some leftover scraps of 1/2 Baltic Birch:
No real surprises here either. Faster is better. Better teeth, and more of them is also better. More better:
There are still some blade witness marks I need to work on. Even though not perfect, for me the results are worth it. As I look ahead to the trim in this workbench project, I don't want to have to deal with it so I'll get in some practice and tuning - is that a thing, tuning track saw rigs?
More on that incompatibility; one word. Arbor. As in 30mm. My plan to simply use locally (USA) sourced 7¼ blades, with their 5/8" arbor was toasted upon this discovery. No problem on overall diameter:
The 7¼, being just a bit smaller, meant zero concerns as far as clearance goes. But the Arbor is larger. Much larger. Here you really see the 5/8 vs 30mm difference:
So I thought what if the arbor mount was the same as other Bosch saws and just had a centering spindle that was market dependent (Hey, @Bosch, Pssst.). Negative GhostRider. So here's what I'm considering. The arbor is a very nicely machined unit:
What if I seek out a machinist to talk about turning the arbor mount (I'd order a replacement or 2) down to 5/8"; am I nuts? If you are well versed, TIA for your opinion, please comment. Yes I know I'd have to consider blades and anti-vibration scores on some models. And I'll need to run a micrometer on blade thickness. What else?
Cheers to all,
Mark
[emoji481]
The Speed Shelf is morphing into a Speed Wall. In it's current configuration:
A few items had been in drawers and one new arrival from Woodpeckers or, as I occasionally refer to them, Picchio Rosso. So we have some progress to report. It's quickly becoming an evolutionary mini project with things rotating in and out plus various placement adjustments. I do have wall space planned out, but don't actually have the items I plan to mount there.
In the mean time I have been working on the L-Boxx ports which is its own project with certain component timing needs. I really wanted to keep the Tool Trundles but the current gen1 configuration A) was garbage from a functionality standpoint, and B) would not fit under the drill press inset. Because I have as much room on the left as I do on the right (behind the HF44's), I could make a single full length trundle. It ended up being 7' long. Simple OMG-has-plywood-gotten-expensive 15/32BC and some 2x6's ripped courtesy of the new track saw rig:
The trundles need to be completed before the L-Boxx ports can go in.
Here's a learning part. It seems my research on using a foreign market cordless power tool was not 100% complete. I overlooked a key detail, which I'll explain further on.
I reused the hardware and original casters that came on the HF44's. I couldn't use the HF44 handle though; it's too tall. A simple carcass:
One upgrade was the change in caster alignment. The end units are aligned just off the front and the center caster is aligned off the rear.
I also squared them up - something I just eyeballed on gen1. Not that these casters are precision units - hey look at the source - but anything to help it track straight would be good.
It is a subtle modification, but seems to work surprisingly well. The gen1 version would roll OK, but depending on load might tip forward or backward when rolling. But because the 'channel' behind the HF44's is tight-ish, nothing ever fell out and it wasn't a problem - just an annoyance in that I knew it could be better.
One hiccup was the 1⅛ counter sink holes for the washers and nuts which I planned to use a Forstner bit on. OK for the ends, but the center unit gave me clearance issues (I could not drill a straight/level hole) with my standard cordless drill. This guy saved me from having to take apart the carcass back:
I have not measured it, but the bit center to head housing clearance is noticeably smaller, allowing me to reach against the back.
Here it is in the extended or open position:
And here it is retracted or closed:
It needs a handle, something I'll need to ponder for a bit...
My 1st use with the track saw showed some results below both my expectation and intent for use. In their defense, this saw is most likely aimed at trades in EU and as a bit of a hybrid, shipping it with a 24T makes some sense. JGer's pointed to blades and I copped that Freud you'll see below. Here I discovered an irreconcilable difference - wrong sized arbor. OK, what options are available? Bosch makes this 56T with a better profile which ticks all the boxes on paper. Except cost. So I ordered a blade. From Europe.
So functionality was not an issue, just time and cost. I used Axminster Tools and the experience was bar-setting for an international tool acquisition. Fair prices, immediate and clear communication, impossibly fast shipping (2 days LON > DTW) via DHL. A+ on two shipments. I ran a few tests in some leftover scraps of 1/2 Baltic Birch:
No real surprises here either. Faster is better. Better teeth, and more of them is also better. More better:
There are still some blade witness marks I need to work on. Even though not perfect, for me the results are worth it. As I look ahead to the trim in this workbench project, I don't want to have to deal with it so I'll get in some practice and tuning - is that a thing, tuning track saw rigs?
More on that incompatibility; one word. Arbor. As in 30mm. My plan to simply use locally (USA) sourced 7¼ blades, with their 5/8" arbor was toasted upon this discovery. No problem on overall diameter:
The 7¼, being just a bit smaller, meant zero concerns as far as clearance goes. But the Arbor is larger. Much larger. Here you really see the 5/8 vs 30mm difference:
So I thought what if the arbor mount was the same as other Bosch saws and just had a centering spindle that was market dependent (Hey, @Bosch, Pssst.). Negative GhostRider. So here's what I'm considering. The arbor is a very nicely machined unit:
What if I seek out a machinist to talk about turning the arbor mount (I'd order a replacement or 2) down to 5/8"; am I nuts? If you are well versed, TIA for your opinion, please comment. Yes I know I'd have to consider blades and anti-vibration scores on some models. And I'll need to run a micrometer on blade thickness. What else?
Cheers to all,
Mark
[emoji481]
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nicholam77
Well-known member
Nice!
I've found using quality plywood always leads to less frustration for me, but you certainly are right about expense. There have been a few times I've designed shop jigs etc and never built them due to materials cost.
That is a bummer about the saw arbor. I can't weigh in in the machinist part in any way, other than it sounds like a decent backup plan to me.
The 56T laminate blade is quite a pricey blade! Looks like it's giving you great results though on speed 6 (I concur here, faster is better). It might actually hold up for a long time, and you could always get it resharpened I assume. I'm still using the blade that came with my track saw, which is going on 2 yrs old, and I've used it a fair amount. Unless you're breaking down plywood all day everyday, I'm guessing it should last you quite awhile. Not saying you shouldn't pursue the machinist thing, it would be interesting for sure, but I wouldn't be totally disheartened with what you have. It looks a big step up from the 24T rip that came with it.
The "blade witness marks" on the 56T / 6 sample look extremely minimal to me. However, as far as tuning, I don't know what your saw offers in the way of adjustability, but the two things I know of on mine are:
1) squaring the blade to the base. On the Makita this is a huge PITA, which involves allen keys, trying to hold the saw upside down and the blade plunged while simultaneously checking for square and tightening things back up.
2) adjusting the fit on the guide rail. Mine has two cams that let you tighten or loosen the fit. I'd try for as tight as possible while still allowing a smooth slide, if your saw has the same adjustment
Otherwise, I think it is what it is. If you need edges like glass for an edge-to-edge glue up or something, you might need to introduce a jointer/hand plane/sander. For plywood builds I've never found that level of precision to be necessary.
I guess since the Woodpecker's tools match your color scheme you'll just have to keep buying them.
I've found using quality plywood always leads to less frustration for me, but you certainly are right about expense. There have been a few times I've designed shop jigs etc and never built them due to materials cost.
That is a bummer about the saw arbor. I can't weigh in in the machinist part in any way, other than it sounds like a decent backup plan to me.
The 56T laminate blade is quite a pricey blade! Looks like it's giving you great results though on speed 6 (I concur here, faster is better). It might actually hold up for a long time, and you could always get it resharpened I assume. I'm still using the blade that came with my track saw, which is going on 2 yrs old, and I've used it a fair amount. Unless you're breaking down plywood all day everyday, I'm guessing it should last you quite awhile. Not saying you shouldn't pursue the machinist thing, it would be interesting for sure, but I wouldn't be totally disheartened with what you have. It looks a big step up from the 24T rip that came with it.
The "blade witness marks" on the 56T / 6 sample look extremely minimal to me. However, as far as tuning, I don't know what your saw offers in the way of adjustability, but the two things I know of on mine are:
1) squaring the blade to the base. On the Makita this is a huge PITA, which involves allen keys, trying to hold the saw upside down and the blade plunged while simultaneously checking for square and tightening things back up.
2) adjusting the fit on the guide rail. Mine has two cams that let you tighten or loosen the fit. I'd try for as tight as possible while still allowing a smooth slide, if your saw has the same adjustment
Otherwise, I think it is what it is. If you need edges like glass for an edge-to-edge glue up or something, you might need to introduce a jointer/hand plane/sander. For plywood builds I've never found that level of precision to be necessary.
I guess since the Woodpecker's tools match your color scheme you'll just have to keep buying them.
...
I guess since the Woodpecker's tools match your color scheme you'll just have to keep buying them.
I wonder if Mrs. Trapps would accept that argument? She's been known to choose a team by the color of a jersey.
In other news, I can't wait to rout some dadoes!
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Please allow me to update my response; I forgot an issue I discovered after framing. In hindsight, I should have created soffits from lookouts (aka outriggers) as shown here:
I just scabbed them on. I'm not too worried about it as I used more lumber and fasteners than needed, in my non-professional, non-engineer DIY Hack opinion. It also sits in a fairly protected area. If I had it to do over....I'd do it correctly.
Thanks for the replies - sorry about the delayed response. The decking likely supports your short overhang, so this is not directed towards you. I tried to convince one of my neighbors that their extended eaves design would sag if it didn't have a cantilevered beam like in your diagram. "It's just for shade. It's not structural" They lag bolted a ladder-type frame to the fascia. It was started sagging as soon as it was done
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GoldCar
Well-known member
Hi Trapps,
Great organization of tools and great optimization of storage spaces.
I love your concepts.
I see that we like the same brands ;-)
Great organization of tools and great optimization of storage spaces.
I love your concepts.
I see that we like the same brands ;-)
No worries! And, I hope you're right! It is 5/8 decking and that short overhang with more fasteners than required should hold up.
Merci Monsieur! We also like organization in smaller spaces - your place looks great!
_________________
Magnets. I've been using them to keep odd things in place and decided to try them on the wall. A simple construction screw will hold a small rare earth magnet pretty well, but not much in terms of weight beyond the magnet itself. So I experimented with some different screws and found this combo to work pretty well:
Clever, cheap and efficient. I like it. The only credit I take is lifting the idea from the guy I bought my used drill press from.
Onwards. I have reached the part of my L-Boxx ports where I verify my ideas and initial plans before making a healthy amount of sawdust. Not jar944 levels of sawdust, but enough that I'll drape some plastic over the girls who are still wearing their hibernation lingerie.
My grandfather always said measure twice, cut once. It's a rule I follow almost religiously. Since I'll need pretty tight tolerances I ran my final plans off of a mock up which I measured more than 3 times in a couple of different ways:
I did the vertical by stacking the boxes, drawers and spacers and then measuring with the help of a pair of framing squares:
For the horizontal I clamped the drawers, slides and spacers all together in the postions they'd be assembled - one long mock-up jig. I was careful to use just enough clamping pressure to align everything but not place sideways compression on the slides which have a tiny bit of play in them. That tiny bit multiplied by 8 slides over ~84" could add up to an issue. Then I measured L to R and R to L as well as checking each drawer/slide/spacer assembly individually.
I am now getting close to assembling the carcass. I am super stoked to use the rail router adapter. I was able to mate the Porter Cable 6931 base to the Bosch FSN OFA rail adapter, but not without a bit of finagling. I had zero issues mounting a PC 1001 base in my Bosch RA1171 router table using a hole pattern 'B' as the instructions suggest. The OFA adapter has the 'B' hole pattern but the manual does not include Porter Cable; it does include Mafell, DeWalt, Festool and Makita though (it also runs on Makita and Festool tracks!). Upon examination I found the 'B' pattern to be around 1/64 too tight. After some careful measuring, then a few wee drams, I decided nibbling off just a tiny bit of each hole would be acceptable and keep the countersink mounting holes in the base within a reasonable tolerance. You can see here just how little a nibble I took:
Roughly the same for each of the 3 holes and presto:
My theory is that the 'B' settings were meant to accept PC (as they do on the RA1171) and that something happend in set up / machining / quality control on the OFA adapter which was made in China. All my PC components were made in the USA. I have not pulled out the RA1171 to see its origin.
Now, with final measurements and the rail router ready to go, I'm just waiting on my schedule and the weather to coordinate so I can bring home materials without fear of snow/rain. I fully anticipate that to be an avocado style experience - not yet, not yet, not yet, not yet, eat me right now, too late.
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Magnets. I've been using them to keep odd things in place and decided to try them on the wall. A simple construction screw will hold a small rare earth magnet pretty well, but not much in terms of weight beyond the magnet itself. So I experimented with some different screws and found this combo to work pretty well:
Clever, cheap and efficient. I like it. The only credit I take is lifting the idea from the guy I bought my used drill press from.
Do the magnets stick to the scale or to the screw heads when removing the scale?
mfg0772
Well-known member
So that base works on Makita and Festool tracks?!? I've started looking at what to use on my Makita rail and if that works, it would surely mate to my Bosch router.
The magnets come off with the rule about 70% of the time. I've played around with sliding, angling, pulling and different combinations of each of those. It's not perfect, but it works well enough and keeps the rule out of the way, protected yet easily accessible.
You can read my initial write up here. You should be good to go mounting a Bosch router and using a Makita rail. Still, do your research. I have access to a Festool rail; I'll try and verify this weekend. I do not know anyone local with a Makita rail to try out.
nicholam77
Well-known member
Dab of CA glue to hold the magnets to the screw heads? Unless you don’t want it permanent?
I started keeping some magnets around, too. Currently use one to keep my drill press chuck key stuck to the drill press [emoji16]
I’ve been on the hunt for a tracksaw rail router base. I’m gonna have to check that Bosch part out. You’ll have to let me know how well the micro adjust works after you’ve had a chance to use it.
I lol’d at the avocado analogy [emoji23].
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
I started keeping some magnets around, too. Currently use one to keep my drill press chuck key stuck to the drill press [emoji16]
I’ve been on the hunt for a tracksaw rail router base. I’m gonna have to check that Bosch part out. You’ll have to let me know how well the micro adjust works after you’ve had a chance to use it.
I lol’d at the avocado analogy [emoji23].
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
It seems I’ve lost Fototime, therefore all of the pics in this thread. 
I have all the originals, but not categorized. [emoji853]
My grandfather had a sign over his basement bar that said “ Keep Smiling “ which is good advice for today, for me at least.
To that end, I actually have reasons to smile. I have been busy with the carcass for the L-Boxx ports and a handle for the tool trundles:
This post is a bit of a test, it is my first post through the app with pics.
It’s almost the weekend, hey, we’ve all got that going for us!
Mark
I have all the originals, but not categorized. [emoji853]
My grandfather had a sign over his basement bar that said “ Keep Smiling “ which is good advice for today, for me at least.
To that end, I actually have reasons to smile. I have been busy with the carcass for the L-Boxx ports and a handle for the tool trundles:
This post is a bit of a test, it is my first post through the app with pics.
It’s almost the weekend, hey, we’ve all got that going for us!
Mark
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nicholam77
Well-known member
Noooooooo!
Damn that is a bummer Mark!
I've been slowly trying to back up my photos from the thread because I'm worried of the same, but at this point it's a process. This + Lilscorpion's thread might be the kick I need to sit down and get it taken care of.
Maybe you can roughly figure it out by date? A big job for sure. Another possibility if you click "edit post" does it still show the image URL's? It might display the file name so you can figure out what goes where. Mine hosting service does https://i.postimg.cc/G3BNXvm6/IMG-1697.jpg
On the up side, the L-Boxx ports look really nice and so does the shop!
Damn that is a bummer Mark!
I've been slowly trying to back up my photos from the thread because I'm worried of the same, but at this point it's a process. This + Lilscorpion's thread might be the kick I need to sit down and get it taken care of.
Maybe you can roughly figure it out by date? A big job for sure. Another possibility if you click "edit post" does it still show the image URL's? It might display the file name so you can figure out what goes where. Mine hosting service does https://i.postimg.cc/G3BNXvm6/IMG-1697.jpg
On the up side, the L-Boxx ports look really nice and so does the shop!
Noooooooo!
Damn that is a bummer Mark!
I've been slowly trying to back up my photos from the thread because I'm worried of the same, but at this point it's a process. This + Lilscorpion's thread might be the kick I need to sit down and get it taken care of.
Maybe you can roughly figure it out by date? A big job for sure. Another possibility if you click "edit post" does it still show the image URL's? It might display the file name so you can figure out what goes where. Mine hosting service does https://i.postimg.cc/G3BNXvm6/IMG-1697.jpg
On the up side, the L-Boxx ports look really nice and so does the shop!
I'm crushed. Fototime changes the picture ID to something infinitely more complex than 'img_6834' so no help there. I do have all the originals so rebuilding based on date/description shouldn't be too difficult. Thanks for the suggestions Nick!
I was able to finish up 90% of the carcass. I have some reinforcements in the form of steel angles I'll place under the Drill Press inset, but it's turning out pretty good so far. In order to preserve access to the tool trundle I needed to cut out sections of the carcass back. I made a simple template for the hole saw, cut the holes and then flipped the case on its face and used the track saw to 'connect' the holes:
I used some clamps to hold the cut out in place to prevent it from falling and tearing the corners as the last cut was finished:
And the result:
By the way, more teeth are better. I used a new hole saw to cut the first hole. It went horribly wrong. Not lose a finger wrong, but there were some expletives uttered:
The whole thing got a once over with 120g in the RO sander. My sophomoric casework needs practice (clamps when routing, even with a track adapter, are necessary for really clean work) and I plan to invest in some silicone glue tools (bucket/brush) so I can avoid the 1st grade levels of glue everywhere but where it should be syndrome. The Tool Trundle ports look to be effective too:
It sits in place now awaiting the fabrication and installation of some shims. Big ones. 7' long w/ a 0-½ slope. This is due to the garage floor which I accounted for in the bench, but not the base, when I originally installed it.
The shop is a mess, which means things are getting done! This was my view last night just before I turned out the lights:
Yes, I had to move the tool boxes. Again. Empty, move, re-load, repeat.
On the plus side, the track saw rig is really inducing lots of smiles. I've got the blade squared and I'm getting very good results with clean, straight cuts. Best tool purchase in a long time for me. I'll also plug the woodpeckers Delve square as very useful; I seem to be reaching for it quite a bit. Cheers,
Mark
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nicholam77
Well-known member
Sorry to bring up photos... but I'm not seeing the pics in your latest post
Seagoon
Well-known member
Sorry to bring up photos... but I'm not seeing the pics in your latest post
Me neither
Noooooooo!
Damn that is a bummer Mark!
I've been slowly trying to back up my photos from the thread because I'm worried of the same, but at this point it's a process. This + Lilscorpion's thread might be the kick I need to sit down and get it taken care of.
Maybe you can roughly figure it out by date? A big job for sure. Another possibility if you click "edit post" does it still show the image URL's? It might display the file name so you can figure out what goes where. Mine hosting service does https://i.postimg.cc/G3BNXvm6/IMG-1697.jpg
On the up side, the L-Boxx ports look really nice and so does the shop!
I'm crushed. Fototime changes the picture ID to something infinitely more complex than 'img_6834' so no help there. I do have all the originals so rebuilding based on date/description shouldn't be too difficult. Thanks for the suggestions Nick!
I was able to finish up 90% of the carcass. I have some reinforcements in the form of steel angles I'll place under the Drill Press inset, but it's turning out pretty good so far. In order to preserve access to the tool trundle I needed to cut out sections of the carcass back. I made a simple template for the hole saw, cut the holes and then flipped the case on its face and used the track saw to 'connect' the holes:
I used some clamps to hold the cut out in place to prevent it from falling and tearing the corners as the last cut was finished:
And the result:
By the way, more teeth are better. I used a new hole saw to cut the first hole. It went horribly wrong. Not lose a finger wrong, but there were some expletives uttered:
The whole thing got a once over with 120g in the RO sander. My sophomoric casework needs practice (clamps when routing, even with a track adapter, are necessary for really clean work) and I plan to invest in some silicone glue tools (bucket/brush) so I can avoid the 1st grade levels of glue everywhere but where it should be syndrome. The Tool Trundle ports look to be effective too:
It sits in place now awaiting the fabrication and installation of some shims. Big ones. 7' long w/ a 0-½ slope. This is due to the garage floor which I accounted for in the bench, but not the base, when I originally installed it.
The shop is a mess, which means things are getting done! This was my view last night just before I turned out the lights:
Yes, I had to move the tool boxes. Again. Empty, move, re-load, repeat.
On the plus side, the track saw rig is really inducing lots of smiles. I've got the blade squared and I'm getting very good results with clean, straight cuts. Best tool purchase in a long time for me. I'll also plug the woodpeckers Delve square as very useful; I seem to be reaching for it quite a bit. Cheers,
Mark
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Advice taken; thanks Bret!
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I managed above average progress this weekend, so I rewarded myself with a similarly above average malt:
It took some serious QST to get to this point, but the juice was worth the squeeze! Fitting the carcass was easy. Squaring it to the bench, leveling it, matching it to the HF44's (they might not be perfectly square and plumb) and then re-building the bench top support was another matter. Not really difficult, but time consuming. I redid the entire top with ripped 2x. Here are the 7’ shims I made. #railsawforthewin!
They are spaced evenly under the carcass.
I cut notches out in strategic places (like the original but with more precision):
And the drill press inset:
If you’re looking at the cabinet work and wondering why I made the tops sit inside of the sides, it was a tactical error. As in pilot error. I am my own worst enemy sometimes. The silver lining is that this error this will allow me to trim the sides to fit once I decide on the final benchtop (the current plywood is temporary).
Another challenge was the depth of the drill press. My bench is 24" from the plywood, so actual (from the trim) is 23¼ The capacitor created a clearance issue of approximately 1" of magnitude and a resulting negative 6 for my attitude. I did not want the press sitting proud of the bench so I relieved the wall (forstner bit on the corners and jig saw against a makeshift rail). I’ll find a better looking solution, but for now it’s functional:
The observant will notice nicholam77's magnet-to-chuck key strategy. I added the taper drift wedge to the party.
I'm training for my DIY final (a significant home reno) and this project is great training. Still, I have a long way to go (see top front left side of the drill press inset) to get to the level of craftsmanship I am seeking. Thanks to several Garage Journaler’s who continue to raise the bar – you know who you are…
This area will eventually house the battery station:
I don’t think the shop has ever been this clean:
The drill press is a new to me Rikon 30-120 which I bought off of FaceBook Marketplace for $280. There’s a whole thread about the ridiculous used drill press market (WTF, these aren’t air-cooled 911’s). I’ve been searching for 8 months and can’t find what I want (Older, heavier, smoother and cooler, big floor standing press with the column cut down) so I punted and bought this as a stopgap. Once I find the press of my dreams, I’ll sell this. In the meantime its far more than serviceable for my needs.
I hope to finish installing L-Boxx port drawers this week. Then a trick or two (I am a Rube Goldberg fan with an affinity for mechanical-ish gimicks, in some respects a gearhead at heart) before looking hard at the trim....
Final view tonight:
Cheers to all!
Mark
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nicholam77
Well-known member
This is looking so good! Truly one of my favorite spaces on GJ. So... excellent work, you deserved the scotch. I don't know a lot about scotch but 18yr has to be good right? It looks tasty.
I'm glad you're enjoying the track saw. There's something oddly satisfying about the shape of those carcass cutouts for the tool trundle access.
Nice magnet use. As you probably know I went a similar route with used drill press. I agree on prices... I wasn't able to find all these amazing deals people say are out there. Haven't put mine through the paces yet with metal etc, but seems more than I'll ever need for the stuff I do at the moment. Yours looks to be in pretty nice shape!
Maybe you've already seen it but this thread by GoldCar has some similar aspects to yours, including L-Boxxes, might be fun to check out.
Something I've been humbled with in my own cabinet-making journey is I think cabinets are both easy, and very difficult, at the same time. Easy to get 90%, difficult to get that perfection. From the looks of it yours turned out very nice.
Enjoying the wider pics of the shop overall and can't wait to see the remaining bits come together!
I'm glad you're enjoying the track saw. There's something oddly satisfying about the shape of those carcass cutouts for the tool trundle access.
Nice magnet use. As you probably know I went a similar route with used drill press. I agree on prices... I wasn't able to find all these amazing deals people say are out there. Haven't put mine through the paces yet with metal etc, but seems more than I'll ever need for the stuff I do at the moment. Yours looks to be in pretty nice shape!
Maybe you've already seen it but this thread by GoldCar has some similar aspects to yours, including L-Boxxes, might be fun to check out.
Something I've been humbled with in my own cabinet-making journey is I think cabinets are both easy, and very difficult, at the same time. Easy to get 90%, difficult to get that perfection. From the looks of it yours turned out very nice.
Enjoying the wider pics of the shop overall and can't wait to see the remaining bits come together!
gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Great job! Very impressive! What a fantastic update Mark! I am really enjoying all the fresh square cut edges of plywood I see throughout your work. Almost seems ashamed to cover them all up with trim. But it must be done.
I am very envious of the environment you have created with all the natural wood throughout. That is definitely one thing my space is lacking. Too much White drywall. Even though that is good for my aging eyesight.
I am not quite sure I understand the used drill press market either unless it is just that no one wants to buy a new one. Which makes sense if you are looking for quality. You can get a quality drill press new but it is going to cost alot of money. The one I can think of besides Grizzly is the Powermatic that is made for Woodworkers. The new one sells for $1,500. Guess all these guys selling think they have gold.
Looking forward to the next update and your Goldberg machine...
Bret
I am very envious of the environment you have created with all the natural wood throughout. That is definitely one thing my space is lacking. Too much White drywall. Even though that is good for my aging eyesight.
I am not quite sure I understand the used drill press market either unless it is just that no one wants to buy a new one. Which makes sense if you are looking for quality. You can get a quality drill press new but it is going to cost alot of money. The one I can think of besides Grizzly is the Powermatic that is made for Woodworkers. The new one sells for $1,500. Guess all these guys selling think they have gold.
Looking forward to the next update and your Goldberg machine...
Bret
GoldCar
Well-known member
This is looking so good! Truly one of my favorite spaces on GJ. So... excellent work, you deserved the scotch. I don't know a lot about scotch but 18yr has to be good right? It looks tasty.
I'm glad you're enjoying the track saw. There's something oddly satisfying about the shape of those carcass cutouts for the tool trundle access.
Nice magnet use. As you probably know I went a similar route with used drill press. I agree on prices... I wasn't able to find all these amazing deals people say are out there. Haven't put mine through the paces yet with metal etc, but seems more than I'll ever need for the stuff I do at the moment. Yours looks to be in pretty nice shape!
Maybe you've already seen it but this thread by GoldCar has some similar aspects to yours, including L-Boxxes, might be fun to check out.
Something I've been humbled with in my own cabinet-making journey is I think cabinets are both easy, and very difficult, at the same time. Easy to get 90%, difficult to get that perfection. From the looks of it yours turned out very nice.
Enjoying the wider pics of the shop overall and can't wait to see the remaining bits come together!
Thanks Nick! I can confirm the Scotch is good. You could say the cutouts are Ron Paulk-ish...
The drill press is all I'll ever need. My problem surfaces when arriving at 'wants' which are not always logic based in my case. I also can't wait to see the bits come together; I wish I knew what it will look like.
Thanks Gear!!!
Thanks Bret! Plywood was both for lighter/brighter to help the place look bigger, and to provide ease of mounting. The used drill press market is just bizarre. One option is the Nova Viking but it's well out of my budget.
Thanks GoldCar; many similarities!
_____________________
Not much to report. I was able to install the inset shelf with some insurance. Not that the 3/4 ply set in dadoes with screws and glue isn't stout enough, I think it is. But now I'll never even wonder. Galvanized angles with ¼ x 1¼ hex head lag screws:
I clamped them in place and then drilled pilot holes. You can also see the bottoms of the 3/8-16 x 3½ hex head screws proud of the T-Nuts which is how I mounted the Drill Press to the shelf:
I'm pretty happy with how its coming along. More so now that I'm uploading pics to rebuild the thread after the Fototime Failure. I'm having quite the walk through the evolution in the garage.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Mark, I share your passion for Single Malt Scotch Whisky. Managed to visit the Whisky Trail in Scotland back in '96. I may have overindulged because it doesn't seem like 25 years. While there I found a nice handbook, The Malt Whisky File.I managed above average progress this weekend, so I rewarded myself with a similarly above average malt:
Cheers to all!
Mark
I probably paid the retail price of £9.99 back then but Amazon has copies for less than $2, even for more recent editions. https://www.amazon.com/dp/0932664938/?tag=atomicindus08-20
It helps finding similar whiskies after you find one you like. It also contains interesting history on each distillery. The original site for the distillery that became Talisker was sited at Snizort, to the north of the Isle of Skye but was mysteriously moved to Carbost on the west coast of Skye in 1830. It's the only distillery on the island of Skye and it's water comes from a burn on the slopes of Cnoc nan Speireag (Hawk Hill). Cooling water comes from the Carbost Burn.
Apologies for exposing another rabbit hole.
Attachments
nicholam77
Well-known member
DP cubby looks good. I think it’s smart to add the support brackets. That’s an interesting clamp, did it come with the Rikon?
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Spontaneous acquisition Woodcraft. Works great; I'll get a second one and repurpose the Rockler hold down clamps I've been using next time in the neighborhood.
Mark, I share your passion for Single Malt Scotch Whisky. Managed to visit the Whisky Trail in Scotland back in '96. I may have overindulged because it doesn't seem like 25 years. While there I found a nice handbook, The Malt Whisky File.
I probably paid the retail price of £9.99 back then but Amazon has copies for less than $2, even for more recent editions. https://www.amazon.com/dp/0932664938/?tag=atomicindus08-20
It helps finding similar whiskies after you find one you like. It also contains interesting history on each distillery. The original site for the distillery that became Talisker was sited at Snizort, to the north of the Isle of Skye but was mysteriously moved to Carbost on the west coast of Skye in 1830. It's the only distillery on the island of Skye and it's water comes from a burn on the slopes of Cnoc nan Speireag (Hawk Hill). Cooling water comes from the Carbost Burn.
Apologies for exposing another rabbit hole.
Oh boy, are we in for some good discussions! I've been in the single malt rabbit hole since '95. I lived in England for 3 years and fully embraced both Pub culture and good Scotch.
The Malt Whisky File is one of my bibles:
I live on the big, bold, smokey and peaty side. Talisker, Laphroaig and Caol Isla are high in the rotation. I'm also fond of certain Ardbeg malts and pretty much anything Lagavulin does (talk about big and bold! Some of their malts are damn near chewey). If I want something a bit more subdued, I'll reach for some Highland Park, Scapa or Port Charlotte.
With the demand ever increasing and the types of iterations, it's become a huge space. That demand has also bumped prices and forced distilleries to market product that is un-aged. I'm not sure how I feel about this, but I keep trying them. Some of them are quite good, Talisker Storm and 57 North, for example.
Skye, Orkney and Islay are all in my wheelhouse. I've never had success in the Lowlands - I have just two words for Glenfarclas - skunk piss. Some Speysides work, but its a last resort option for me.
As an everyday drink, meaning affordable blends, I drank Dewar's for 25 years, then migrated to The Famous Grouse for about 1 year and have been a Johnnie Black guy for the past 5 or so years.
Best malt I've ever had was a Laphroaig 30. It was sublime and perfect.
I keep a decently stocked bar at the house. My Scotch collection is often challenged by my Tequila problem, but never beaten.
________________
Speaking of challenges, the shop has been one for a week or so. The L-Boxx ports have been a very slow process:
Discovering my somewhat ancient 2' level was off by a couple of degrees was both an explanation and the root cause of those challenges. Still, I hope to finish them up this week.
Mark
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Mark, retirement and Scotch Whisky didn't mix well for me so I gave up alcohol 18 years ago. Like you, I really liked the Islay single malts and my daily draft was Johnnie Walker Black. So much so that the bartenders at an all-inclusive resort re-named me Johnnie Black and would have a glass on the rocks waiting for me as I approached the bar. They were thrilled I wasn't asking for a five-ingredient mixed drink with fruit slices and umbrella.
Our bar at home had a single bottle on top (4.5 litre refilled regularly).
I found it at A.H. Rise in St. Thomas on one of our cruises and it was cheaper than buying the equivalent in smaller bottles.
Our bar at home had a single bottle on top (4.5 litre refilled regularly).
I found it at A.H. Rise in St. Thomas on one of our cruises and it was cheaper than buying the equivalent in smaller bottles.
Attachments
nicholam77
Well-known member
Normally if I'm having whiskey I go for bourbon, but dang you guys are making me want to try some scotch now!
The L-Boxx ports are looking great and so is the whole bench area!
The L-Boxx ports are looking great and so is the whole bench area!
Thanks, it's becoming more and more of a constant evolution. Drawers are all finally installed:
The over-travel slides work as planned. How refreshing, compared to the chaleng, ah, opportunities, yea, opportunities, I've been facing lately. They extend far enough to keep the lid open without having to move/adjust the box:
I still have the handles to go, but they're going to be incorporated into the trim so for now it's 'pinch & pull' the drawer bottoms. The slides are smooth so no issue, even on the heavier boxes.
Here's the current speed wall evolution:
A cosmetic drill press modification:
I'm currently searching for the perfect Porsche 917 shift knob replica (maybe a replica of a replica, in the cheapest sense of the word!). The third is still pending discussion with myself. Contenders include a beer tap handle, another unique gear shift knob, a baseball and broken tool.
On the plus side, Easter weekend had some terrific weather, so I rented this rig:
In an attempt to finish the Buckthorn eradication and claim back ~1500SF of backyard, I ran the cultivator over all the ground we had dug out last summer.
Frankly speaking, that machine is a bonafide beast. I am amazed at how smooth, powerful and quiet this machine and attachment were. I seeded it this week - a risk as it's still early in the season here. I put 7 hours on the machine and I know to do it by hand would have cost me at least 3 full weekends, a bottle of Ibuprofen and tube of IcyHot. I also transplanted a significant plot of pachysandra - the bucket was a huge help as I was able to take very large sections which should lessen the stress of 'moving.' I also excavated an area where a new outdoor living space will be, so probably relocated 10 yards of root infested hard soil and about 200' of 4x6 that was old, wet and heavy. A few bits of concrete and some old pavers also got the limo service. More on this project later...
I also fell into a benchtop solution in the form of 5 science room tables (tops only) from a high school that's remodeling. They are 66" x 42" x 1⅛", have what appears to be a phenholic top on a very dense MDF base and are made by Wisconsin Bench. I estimated the weight at between 80-100Lbs. Each. They had to be carried a distance to the truck and afterwords I revised my weight estimate to 11.4 metric tonnes. Each.
I'm not sure of age, but the condition is good to very good. This is the worst:
The price was right - zero dollars - and they will cover my entire work surface (i ran out of the left over flooring I have been using). That'll require some time to sort out, but I have a plan. The current stack is 1" so I'll have adjust the existing wall trim by ⅛". Easy enough as it's all screwed.
And, because having 3 other projects ongoing wasn't enough, I decided, with Mrs. Trapps insistence, to begin the overhaul of our home. Welcome bedroom to Studio/Office conversion.
This was our daughters room and she moved out last month. Mrs. Trapps is getting a home office and a studio for her crafts/hobbies. I will vault the ceiling on one side (the blue wall which is south) up to 11 feet. That wall will then get a Murphy bed and serve as a guest room when needed.
The house is a 1954 Ranch, that wants to be considered MCM but isn't really, sitting on a nice lot with a kitchen/great-room addition that was completed in 1999.
That addition is allowing me to vault the ceiling. In this picture, the blue wall is on the right:
Not long ago I saw a pretty video funny link on GJ about some guys winging their 'load bearing engineering modifications.' Not that I needed a reminder, but as some of the existing trusses need to be cut, I'll be consulting an engineer this week. I hope to be able to simply sandwich the existing with ½" ply, screwed and glued. Basically replace the existing 2x & mending plate trusses with fully gusseted trusses.
Nice! My Dad had the Dewar's version. Today's reward with a nod in your direction:
Cheers all!
Mark
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nicholam77
Well-known member
Wow, that's a lot of big projects you have planned!
The L-boxx ports look awesome. I've found having my systainers on drawers makes them so much more practical in the shop than stacked somewhere. All while keeping them very transportable to other locations, like the house. Sounds like you might be doing a bit of back and forth with your tools in the near future, too.
The speed wall is looking chock full of nice tools already... you might have to start a second location pretty soon haha. I spy a BBS centercap on the electrical panel cover, what's that from??
The drill press handle is fun. I remember Unruh did one awhile back with a Craftsman screwdriver handle if I remember correctly.
I don't envy the landscape work but it looks like you have quite a nice space out there!
As much as I love seeing the shop, as you maybe can guess I am totally on board for the house and outdoor space renovations. Really curious to see how you do the vaulted ceiling. So it will slope like a shed roof?
Exciting stuff!
The L-boxx ports look awesome. I've found having my systainers on drawers makes them so much more practical in the shop than stacked somewhere. All while keeping them very transportable to other locations, like the house. Sounds like you might be doing a bit of back and forth with your tools in the near future, too.
The speed wall is looking chock full of nice tools already... you might have to start a second location pretty soon haha. I spy a BBS centercap on the electrical panel cover, what's that from??
The drill press handle is fun. I remember Unruh did one awhile back with a Craftsman screwdriver handle if I remember correctly.
I don't envy the landscape work but it looks like you have quite a nice space out there!
As much as I love seeing the shop, as you maybe can guess I am totally on board for the house and outdoor space renovations. Really curious to see how you do the vaulted ceiling. So it will slope like a shed roof?
Exciting stuff!