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The 1st drawing: 30x50 or somewhere around that

MarkMM

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The 2 bay doors will have a 2 post lift and a flat but eventually 2 lifts most likely. Other half with the bigger bay door will be tools, tables,equipment, and work space. If i could spend all my time restoring/ building classic cars I'd never call it work again. Just doing what I love.
 

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kwb

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That would be a bit small of a space to have 2 lifts and a workspace. My dad has a 30x50 space and even whe it wasn't full of ~30yrs of junk it still would be hard to have a couple of cars on lifts and the associated disassembly of a real project.

The two doors (presumably with lifts) look to be too close together to really have space around them to work
 
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MarkMM

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Sorry to scale was not intended yet.

It will be just myself in the space, 2 projects @ most. I have an existing 16x24 that will act as storage for parts when a car is taken apart.
 

racecougar

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It really comes down to how many cars you want to have in there at one time. I originally planned on doing a 30'x50' but decided to increase it to 30'x60' as the incremental cost wasn't really that much. The extra 300 sq ft allows room for another vehicle, or a bunch of equipment, whichever you prefer. I use my space as a combination of workspace and vehicle storage.
 

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Hooked

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Whatever size you think is good..........double that and it MIGHT be big enough. When I/we build our 40x60 my wife kept asking if it would be large enough. Of course, I knew it would fit everything we had planned. Six months after we built it the comments started - I told you we should have built it larger -- and continue to this day. We are actually discussing extending it to double the size. You see, we quickly discovered additional uses for the workshop space. :)
 

sz0k30

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Everybody that starts with that question, I think the best advise is ALWAYS get some 1/4" graph paper; measure the cars, lifts, benches, toolboxes, drill press, compressor an anything else you have or can think of and cut out the (to scale) pieces and start moving them around.

Its cheap, easy, fun & practical.
 

infinkc

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why the big bay door if its only for tools/workspace in that area, wall space is a premium in some shops.
 

sick467

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Shop size is always dictated by budget...neither are ever big enough!

I would consider putting all the garage doors on one side and making the two smaller ones about 12' wide and the larger one 16' (or there-abouts). Maybe even put the larger on in the middle. This will put our work area close to all the projects. Anyhow, wider doors are very nice compared to "just wide enough", and it will space the bays out to create good isle ways in between the projects. This will also leave a 10'+ foot area in front of the projects for work benches and room for cherry picking and such.

One thing I learned at my old shop was the need for an overhang of the main work garage door. Nothing like having to close the door to keep rain out on a hot day. I sacrificed some of the "finishing" budget to add a 10' overhang on the main side and love it! I had to do the wiring, insulation, and interior walls myself instead. I can do that, but not add the overhang.

You'll love the windows up high until it comes time to clean them, but mine are worth it!

My main work area garage door faces west and I wish it didn't. It had to be that way because of the lay of my land. In the summer...the setting sun can really get it cooking in the shop (and it's rather blinding too). The only time it's nice is in the cool spring and fall when the warmth is welcome, but those times are shorter lived than the long hot humid summers we get in Missouri.

Enjoy the designing phase!

Just my 2¢ (all five gallons of it).
 

WNYflyer

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Everybody that starts with that question, I think the best advise is ALWAYS get some 1/4" graph paper; measure the cars, lifts, benches, toolboxes, drill press, compressor an anything else you have or can think of and cut out the (to scale) pieces and start moving them around.

Its cheap, easy, fun & practical.

As an engineer this what I often do whether for work or for personal use. I measure and rough everything out on paper. I also get out a tape and often get kraft paper or cardboard, etc out to see how space clearances look. Folk in the office sometimes look at us strange when we are pulling tape measures and putting post-its on the floor to indicate layouts, spaces, clearances, etc.
 

racecougar

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I did the same thing when it came time to lay out my equipment in my shop, though in CAD. It's way easier to move blocks around in CAD or small pieces of paper on a grid than it is to move presses, lifts, benches and more around in person. :)
 

kwb

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The other thing to consider is how old you are and how long you plan to stay.

I built mine before I was 30. I knew I wanted to park basically any reasonably towable boat inside for the winters. That drove me to a 14'h door. I also had a 27' enclosed snowmobile trailer to keep inside.

I never dreamed of having a CNC plasma table or a forklift when I built. I figured a welder, torch, toolboxes, drill press, a full sized table saw, maybe someday a lathe. Now about the only thing I don't have is a lathe. While I work on our cars for basic upkeep I cannot afford the commitment of space to a lift. I also never expected to be building custom dollies that are 40' long.

Knowing what I know now - I would have gone bigger, the incremental cost was small then. I have been here for 20yrs with no plan to leave in the next 50 or so. Adding on at this point would be a huge cost and less than ideal for how/where I could add on.
 
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rburke65

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I built a 32x56........a 40x60 would have been lovely...even if you have to postpone the second lift til the following year...bigger.....trust what everyone else on this site is telling 6ou.
 

sz0k30

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I did the same thing when it came time to lay out my equipment in my shop, though in CAD. It's way easier to move blocks around in CAD or small pieces of paper on a grid than it is to move presses, lifts, benches and more around in person. :)

I/m a CAD guy too. Have been for many years. Used Unigraphics & others when I worked. Use Alibre at retirement.
 

sz0k30

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I did the same thing when it came time to lay out my equipment in my shop, though in CAD. It's way easier to move blocks around in CAD or small pieces of paper on a grid than it is to move presses, lifts, benches and more around in person. :)

I/m a CAD guy too. Have been for many years. Used Unigraphics & others when I worked. Use Alibre in retirement.
 

welder57

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I would rethink the translucent wall panel, cannot insulate for cold or hot, freeze in the winter and hot in the summer. Full wall insulation is your best way to keep heat in and cool in as well. For a little light, it not worth it.
 
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MarkMM

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I really appreciate the comments everybody.

I'll be 40 on the next few months. I have worked in a giant dealerships and I have worked in my driveway. Anything I get I will be thrilled to have. I will do as much as possible and hopefully get help from my family, they've done construction their whole lives, I've done enough throughout mine. Downside they're in another state.

Size will ultimately be dictated by what fits after grading. If a 40x60 fits I'd be ecstatic. But im realistic, and the hillside where it will go is far from level. Time will tell

Smaller doors most likely 10x10, bigger door 12x12.
No boats, no rvs, no duellies. Biggest vehicle will probably be a full size single cab truck.

The shop will face SW, so the windows across the front will cause heat loss. But not much solar gain other than light. Mountains and ridges all around.

Again thank you for the responses.

Here is the approx location it will be going.
 

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kwb

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I think you will regret being that far from the house.
 

sick467

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A further distance from the house has it's pro's...

Mine's a bit close as the little lady visit's frequently with..."I have a question"...30 minutes later and I've forgotten what I was doing. LOL
 
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MarkMM

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A BIG FYI. Location, thats where there is enough space. Can't change that. Wife raises honey bees for a living. I like to keep my distance.

I know the inconvenience of the hike. There is a big elevation change from the road to my house. I have atvs to help out.

My other option would be to tear down my 16x24 garage. Excavate. I'd only have enough room for a 24x30. Not worth it.
 

astroracer

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I like using Grizzlies Shop Planner to layout new ideas. It is offline right now for rebuilding but keep an eye on it.
https://www.grizzly.com/user/shop-planner
It has a lot of add ins, shop tools, cars, trucks, even furniture and bathroom fittings that can be used to customize your space.
Also, when you are doing your designs, keep in mind your 30'x50' is only 29'x 49' on the "inside". :)
Also, as was mentioned, keep your doors at least 4' off the inside walls, especially if you plan a 2 post hoist for that spot. The hoist eats up a lot of space toward the wall and it starts to get pretty narrow with any benches or storage along the wall.
Pay attention to over head doors opening into vehicles on the lift (high lift doors are a good idea).
12' ceilings are a minimum for full height hoist use, scissor trusses and loft trusses are also workable, the loft trusses are cheap sq. footage for storage or a man cave above the shop. :)
As far as concrete goes you do not have to go crazy with thickness or rebar. BendPak's FAQ site recommends 4" of 3000 psi concrete for their 2 post lifts up to 14K. Of course you can do whatever you feel comfortable with but 4" of 4000psi will do the job.
Mark
 
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MarkMM

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We are on the same page. Door will be roughly 5' from wall, I want 3.5-4' between the wall and lift. And I will center the door from there, do the same and then put the next door.

14' ceilings. 6" slab throughout. Not sure on a loft or mezzanine yet.
 
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