Just picked up an Atlas drill press and I want to do some well deserved maintenance to it. I don’t think it has ever been cleaned and I guy I got it off of didn’t seem to have cleaned it ever. Pulleys and belts are in good order and I found some literature on it. It is a model 54 serial number 000771, however the images in the literature look a little different. I have an extra pulley attached to the top of mine (which I have seen images of Craftsman DP that look like that). I guess I am looking for any guidance with the maintenance and ideas I where I can get new bearings (if mine are going-after I tear it down). Thanks for the guidance and yes I am a newbie to this.
Help with My Atlas Drill Press
- Thread starter Newsmitty
- Start date
bob15
Well-known member
I would just clean it and add a little 3 in 1 oil (or any fine lubricating oil) to the wear and moving parts. I wouldn't change bearings unless they are really needed.
hefnerconstructionlc
Well-known member
I agree as above. Just blow it off with some nice compressor clean it up give it a coat of oil. And then run the thing and see if it sounds fine. It's not out of balance and isn't making a squealing noise. then it's likely fine it's probably set more of its life than it's actually been used. If it's not squeaking either from a bearing or a belt. I would just use it that old stuff is made the last. If it's binding up and squealing then you can start looking in the bearings. Otherwise just use the thing.
That machine looks to be in fine condition. Seriously. Great find. Nothing better than those old heavy cast iron machines. I would clean the grime in with Purple power or something of that sort. Put a little lube where it's needed. A razor blade works to scrape the rust on the table then a little oil and fine steel wool should take care of that light rust. If bearing, parts or other adjustments are needed, you could always hear over to owwm.org for some great advice.
I always service bearings in old machines. You can usually get by with cleaning them thoroughly and repacking them with fresh grease vs. replacing them. I can almost guarantee that they are all dried up inside.
If the chuck opens and closes easily then just blow out the inside/jaws with compressed air.
Nice clean machine!!! It's nice to find them in that condition.
If the chuck opens and closes easily then just blow out the inside/jaws with compressed air.
Nice clean machine!!! It's nice to find them in that condition.
rlitman
Well-known member
I have an old Atlas floor standing drill press from around that vintage. In it's second life (before I got it), it was used to make the tooling that made Atari joysticks (if that helps date it).
The quill bearings are sealed, and are still in perfect condition, never touched to this day. Yes, I too would normally recommend servicing bearings, but this is one tool where I'd suggest skipping that.
More importantly, pull the cap on the return spring and spray some oil in there. Those clock spring returns are known to snap when they get dry, and I've seen many of these Atlas DPs with broken springs.
justanengineer
Well-known member
If you need bearings I would suggest google for finding bearing suppliers local to you. I use Kaman Industrial regularly for this, just take in the bearings, shields, and anything else you need and let them measure or cross reference the numbers. Usually the counter people are more than willing to answer any questions you have and give you options for speed limits, sealed vs shielded vs open, etc.
If the chuck is gummy there’s a million sites and videos online showing how to press/tap them apart for cleaning. It’s pretty simple and makes a world of difference in terms of smooth operation.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If the chuck is gummy there’s a million sites and videos online showing how to press/tap them apart for cleaning. It’s pretty simple and makes a world of difference in terms of smooth operation.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
FrankLee
Well-known member
Standard Atlas drill presses did not come equipped with that extra pulley. It is a very desirable and sought-after optional accessory. Check ebay for sold prices.
This post may be helpful: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8673207
Well I decided to take it apart to do a good cleaning. Will have more pictures and lots more questions. I am already finding possible issues (gaskets near the front spindle that looks like it was loose and bouncing around when the drill was on).
Ok, I got the quill ok and it looks good but I found some type of rubber bushing that was on top of it that is not in the best of shape. Could not find it on the diagram for this model, anyone that can help with that would be greatly appreciated. Also found little adjustment screw (I think) when I removed the center pulley. Don’t think it came off the pulley so any ideas on that will help too. Everything else is looking but will just need a good cleaning. Motor was working but I might try to clean that as well. Thoughts?
Attachments
FrankLee
Well-known member
That would be the quill bumper. It should be installed in the head frame casting, but obviously came loose. You could try to flip it over and reinstall, or I do have a spare in decent condition.
I have no ideas on the set screw.
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
Here is a link to a long sold Atlas center pulley of mine with ,its of photos if that helps. I do not remember a set screw In it
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295569
I think I found what the set screw went to-the collar on top of the quill. It was missing. Could also explain why the bumper is torn up. Is the bumper suppose to sit on the quill like in the below picture-just that all of that is inside the head when assembled? If that is the case I might just have to make a new one out of a piece of rubber unless anyone has any other ideas for material to use.
Attachments
FrankLee
Well-known member
That is the correct location for a set screw, but that set screw is way too long and likely caused the shredding of the bumper. The set screw should be near flush with the OD of the spindle collar.
The bumper gets installed in the head casting and the top edge of the quill bumps up against it.
What is the diameter of your quill? There's probably a better option than that oe bumper.
Last edited:
FrankLee
Well-known member
OK, 1-1/2 is what I thought.
Because you have that sleeve at the bottom 1" of the quill, you would probably be better off installing a quill bumper just above that sleeve. There should be plenty of standard 1-1/2" rubber plumbing fittings/gaskets/o-rings that should work well.
Below is a picture of a 2nd-gen Emerson Craftsman quill with bumper. This one is 1-5/8" diameter, but should give you an idea of what I'm talking about.
Last edited:
FrankLee
Well-known member
just for when the quill is return back up.
Without the bumper, I believe that sleeve at the bottom of the quill would contact the casting. Easy to test. IMO, that rubber donut was a bad design.
WhiteBimmer
New member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2024
- Messages
- 1
Newbie to the forum and hope it is still active?!
Have an original 20+/- yo GLOBAL FLD-14 bench-mount drill press which has started to "chatter".
Not sure if it is the belt but given presses age, I bought one.
From googling on vintage presses, it appears that noise may be bearing that needs to be repacked or replaced.
Do not have a manual so hoping that a member of forum does or know where I might obtain one.
Any info re the FLD-14 would be greatly appreciated.
Have an original 20+/- yo GLOBAL FLD-14 bench-mount drill press which has started to "chatter".
Not sure if it is the belt but given presses age, I bought one.
From googling on vintage presses, it appears that noise may be bearing that needs to be repacked or replaced.
Do not have a manual so hoping that a member of forum does or know where I might obtain one.
Any info re the FLD-14 would be greatly appreciated.