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Anyone created a false (stationary) OH door panel?

cstmg8

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Apr 7, 2018
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518
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Pickerington, oh
So the wife wants the building to look symmetrical, but I'd like a 10' h and an 8' h door. The 10 would be on the left bay with the lift, the 8' door would be on the right, to allow more loft headspace on that side.
If I simply go with two 10' doors, have you ever seen a top panel that didn't move? Essentially I'd permanently fix the top panel in place, and the lower 4 panels would open like a normal door.

Tracks would be installed like an 8' door with the curves being behind the top (fixed) panel as opposed to above it. I'm sure I may have to put a slight jog in the trach for it to close properly.

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Glemon

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Aug 29, 2020
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NE
I think it could be done if you have the tracks running off the next to top panel, then some sort of rube goldberg device to lift the top panel an inch or two when the lowers move up and down.

Or just do 8' doors and raise the tracks.
 

justiz00

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Jun 26, 2018
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OK
Paint/trim out the top panel of the 10’ door so it appears 8’ tall?
 
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cstmg8

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Apr 7, 2018
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Pickerington, oh
Hmm. Raising the tracks won't help, because the opening would only be 8'. After a bit more thought, I'm wondering if it would make more sense to make a header that swung/hinged up on the left door. That would mean 2 8' doors and a larger opening on the left door only on the rare occasion it's needed.
Both doors are framed at 10' already, so there's no support/structural issues. It'll be pretty easy to sink some hinges behind the siding and stagger the lap siding to swing out and up. It can be pinned in place from inside when not in use. Sealing won't be an issue with some weatherstripping.21a822db81d8d216b761f9b05caa30ed.jpg

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cstmg8

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Pickerington, oh
Oh, the door over the left lift bay will be high lift up the scissor trusses. The right door will be normal, mounted tight to the bottom of the loft joists.

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Mr_fixit

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May 24, 2008
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Rustylvania
I have (2)9' high doors and one 11' high door. They all appear to be exactly the same (9 foot) from the outside. One has an extra panel that you can't see from the outside. That gives the higher clearance for the lift. It also lets me use a residential t-rail opener, with extension, without the need for a jackshaft opener.

Inside the height is over 10' on the shorter doors and over 12' where the lift is.
 
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cstmg8

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Apr 7, 2018
Messages
518
Location
Pickerington, oh
I have (2)9' high doors and one 11' high door. They all appear to be exactly the same (9 foot) from the outside. One has an extra panel that you can't see from the outside. That gives the higher clearance for the lift. It also lets me use a residential t-rail opener, with extension, without the need for a jackshaft opener.

Inside the height is over 10' on the shorter doors and over 12' where the lift is.
Do you have pics of your setup? Sounds like what I'm looking for?

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cstmg8

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Pickerington, oh
After reading your description again, I think it's a little different than what I'm looking for. I'm hoping for the look of 8' doors, but 10' access on one door.

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Chevy-SS

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Feb 11, 2010
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1,492
Location
Rhode Island
So the wife wants the building to look symmetrical, but I'd like a 10' h and an 8' h door. ...
If I simply go with two 10' doors, have you ever seen a top panel that didn't move? Essentially I'd permanently fix the top panel in place, and the lower 4 panels would open like a normal door.......

What am I missing here??? Just put in two 10'h doors. You're striving for that 'symmetrical' look, anyway. So why go through the trouble to make it actually look like 2 10'h doors, but have one be an 8'h?? You totally lost me on this one, or maybe my brain just ain't working tonite. :confused:
 

Darby9

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Jan 18, 2020
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110
Location
San Francisco
What am I missing here??? Just put in two 10'h doors. You're striving for that 'symmetrical' look, anyway. So why go through the trouble to make it actually look like 2 10'h doors, but have one be an 8'h?? You totally lost me on this one, or maybe my brain just ain't working tonite. :confused:

He wants 2' more storage space on one side of the garage, above the bay with the 8' door.

Seems like you could just fill in the 2' gap above the 8' door with a 2' tall "wall", built under the header. Trim the outside to look like the garage door panels, insulate the inside. Just double or triple up the center stud to have something rugged to screw the door opener drive to.
 

firebirdparts

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Jun 8, 2016
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10,633
Location
Kingsport, TN
Easy enough to do if you want to. There is a form of low headroom kit that can allow a garage door top panel to swing closed strictly horizontally, and you’d need that. It’s not a complex motion but it’s not the norm. Or, you could just have the top panel offset into the doorway and put up with how that looks.
 
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