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Floor Coating Questions / Recommendations

Boostingaz

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I am at the stage where I need to figure out what I am going to do with my floor, that is not going to break what's left of the bank.....

Total sqft is approx 3100. The building is separated into two sides. One side is strictly storage (unless the RV needs work) and the other side is partitioned into a 50/50 woodshop / garage for car maintenance.

I am obviously more concerned about the "shop side". It makes up approx 1,100 sgft of the total.

What is the recommendation for the shop side? The woodshop mostly just for cleanability and to help prevent paint/stain penetration as a precaution and the garage portion I would like something to keep fluid stains in check.

Also what would be recommended for the storage side? Maybe something a little cheaper and a little less labor intensive as far as the application.
 

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RPH

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If stain resistance and low costs are concerned look into ghost shield products. I used the densities and 8505 on my floor. This material has exceeded expectations as a working farm shop floor.
 
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Boostingaz

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I guess I should say I am not a fan of the flake look and have had negative experience with epoxy type products. My experience was that here in Phoenix where it reaches higher temperatures, when vehicles or trailers sat for extended periods of time, they would almost seal themselves to the floor and the next time you used them they would literally peel up the floor. It ended up over the years with tire tracks and spots missing the flake in it. I dont know if this was an application error (it was not DIY a company did it).

So I guess I am looking for more of just a sealer, something clear or concrete colored. I don't care about the look to a certain extent more so just want to protection aspect.
 
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Boostingaz

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If stain resistance and low costs are concerned look into ghost shield products. I used the densities and 8505 on my floor. This material has exceeded expectations as a working farm shop floor.


I will look into that one as well, thank you. 🍺
 

Garage Flooring

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May 21, 2011
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5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I am at the stage where I need to figure out what I am going to do with my floor, that is not going to break what's left of the bank.....

Total sqft is approx 3100. The building is separated into two sides. One side is strictly storage (unless the RV needs work) and the other side is partitioned into a 50/50 woodshop / garage for car maintenance.

I am obviously more concerned about the "shop side". It makes up approx 1,100 sgft of the total.

What is the recommendation for the shop side? The woodshop mostly just for cleanability and to help prevent paint/stain penetration as a precaution and the garage portion I would like something to keep fluid stains in check.

Also what would be recommended for the storage side? Maybe something a little cheaper and a little less labor intensive as far as the application.

I would throw some clear polyurea or even a TruAlloy system on it. Either will help with cleaning more than a sealer.
 

Armorpoxy

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Aug 18, 2013
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May we suggest using a coat of our SPGX one part Polyurea in clear? It rolls on like paint, gives superb protection to the floor comparable to an epoxy system but at about half the cost and much easier to install. Normally a fine non skid additive is added so it's not slippery.

Also gives the final look of polished concrete.

https://armorpoxy.com/spgx-polyurea-coating/
 
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Boostingaz

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May we suggest using a coat of our SPGX one part Polyurea in clear? It rolls on like paint, gives superb protection to the floor comparable to an epoxy system but at about half the cost and much easier to install. Normally a fine non skid additive is added so it's not slippery.

Also gives the final look of polished concrete.

https://armorpoxy.com/spgx-polyurea-coating/

Is there a product in which I can fill small surface cracks and joints that would blend them in or no not really.....

My control joints are just saw cut joints. There are maybe 3/16" - 1/4".

What is the floor prep process for the SPGX and can you spray it or does it need to be rolled?

Thanks.
 

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Armorpoxy

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Hi
We recommend filling joints after the floor is coated. We offer a Flexible Joint Filler, or Sikaflex (available at home centers) both work very well. They are available in gray.

If you want more color options check out Metzger and Mcquire RS-88 online, it comes in over 100 colors.

As for prep a light acid etch is recommended and then roll on. We do not recommend spraying it.

Thank you.
 
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Boostingaz

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Hi
We recommend filling joints after the floor is coated. We offer a Flexible Joint Filler, or Sikaflex (available at home centers) both work very well. They are available in gray.

If you want more color options check out Metzger and Mcquire RS-88 online, it comes in over 100 colors.

As for prep a light acid etch is recommended and then roll on. We do not recommend spraying it.

Thank you.


Do you have any photos of the SPGX in the gray color that is available on your site?

And also a link to the join filler? I could not find it.

Thanks.
 

Slowbuilder

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Mar 14, 2016
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265
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Chandler, AZ
I just finished my 1000sqft shop using an epoxy primer with poly top coat. I'm very satisfied with the results. I used the same product set on my last garage floor, and had zero issues with lifting after about 10 years of use. I live in the Phoenix area as well; heat had no impact on the floor.

I used Epoxy 100 and Poly 100 from Arizona Polymer Floors, purchased through Prestige Coatings in Mesa. Great guys at Prestige - very helpful and good to work with.

You will want something to provide slip resistance - sawdust on a smooth surface like this is like oil on ice. I broadcast aluminum oxide grit (#90) on top of the uncured epoxy and rolled the poly on top.

Last time, I didn't fill control joints (tooled joints in my case) and cracks - this time I wanted the level surface. I used an epoxy filler (from Prestige) before coating. We'll see how that works out. Concrete is about 24 months old; hopefully it's done any moving/cracking it is going to do.

Prep is key: Degrease, power-wash, acid etch, fill joints, grind joints to level, power-wash again, then apply. Follow the recommendations for interval between coatings (>24 hours, < 72 hours).

PM me if you like to come out and see the results.
 
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Boostingaz

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I just finished my 1000sqft shop using an epoxy primer with poly top coat. I'm very satisfied with the results. I used the same product set on my last garage floor, and had zero issues with lifting after about 10 years of use. I live in the Phoenix area as well; heat had no impact on the floor.

I used Epoxy 100 and Poly 100 from Arizona Polymer Floors, purchased through Prestige Coatings in Mesa. Great guys at Prestige - very helpful and good to work with.

You will want something to provide slip resistance - sawdust on a smooth surface like this is like oil on ice. I broadcast aluminum oxide grit (#90) on top of the uncured epoxy and rolled the poly on top.

Last time, I didn't fill control joints (tooled joints in my case) and cracks - this time I wanted the level surface. I used an epoxy filler (from Prestige) before coating. We'll see how that works out. Concrete is about 24 months old; hopefully it's done any moving/cracking it is going to do.

Prep is key: Degrease, power-wash, acid etch, fill joints, grind joints to level, power-wash again, then apply. Follow the recommendations for interval between coatings (>24 hours, < 72 hours).

PM me if you like to come out and see the results.

Thanks for the info. Sometimes people dont understand the Phoenix heat and how it can just cause havock on certain materials. Good to hear first hand that the product you used is holding up well. Appreciate the offer on taking a look at it. If I even have a need to head down your way for anything I may hit you up. (I am in far far north phoenix). Thank!
 
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Boostingaz

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