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suggestions for Natural hardwood coating

handyman2020

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Toronto
Hello,
I have sanded hardwood floor to raw wood and now I want to coat it but I do not want to coat with chemicals because the reason i sanded was the old owner had it painted with some kind of varnish which was smelling even after 2+ years so I had to sand down everywhere.


Now, I have raw wood exposed, I have following question

1 what I should coat it with? I saw Youtube videos some say put wood filter first.

2. I am thinking to use multiple periodical coating of hemp oil, I cant take risk of using another layer of any chemical coating and have it not dried or smell for a very long time and go through this again.

Please can you provide your review for hemp oil coating and wood filler coating, should I do wood filler first or just hemp oil ?
if you know any better idea please share.

Regards
 
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Kaizen

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Whatever you were smelling is very rare if applied correctly. The reason chemicals are used is they are very tough. Water based poly would be my first choice


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handyman2020

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Whatever you were smelling is very rare if applied correctly. The reason chemicals are used is they are very tough. Water based poly would be my first choice


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I am doing this all the very first time and its cold here in Canada, so i dont think so it will dry as expected.

Can you suggest some brand name for water based poly you mentioned?

and any idea about Hemp oil and wood filler?

Regards
 

dffay

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Varathane (Rustoleum) Water-based floor finish is superb. Easy to apply, not smelly, super binders in it that bond to each layer (I swabbed on four on my red oak) and very hard and durable. It’s great stuff and clean up is easy. Satin finish is gorgeous.
 

Bert_

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I've got floors that were finished with shellac. It's about as natural as it gets. Downside is it's not as durable as modern coatings. Really should be waxed. Those reasons are why it's really not used anymore.
 

Showkey

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Research Hard Wax Oil wood floor finish:

YouTube, Amazon, DIY forums




Can be done in one day
Penetrating finish available in various sheen levels
No smell, no odor, no fumes, NO VOC. (Varies with brand)
Can be retouched or spot repair at any time.
It is pricey
It’s not a durable as polyurethane finish
More natural look vs shiny poly

50E39DCB-2128-4DCA-967F-E827C30B3C5D.jpg

C0EA602D-140D-4558-920E-76E9AEBE915D.jpg


Been there with toxic Gym seal, oil based poly, water based poly........
 
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handyman2020

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2019
Messages
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Location
Toronto
Research Hard Wax Oil wood floor finish:

YouTube, Amazon, DIY forums




Can be done in one day
Penetrating finish available in various sheen levels
No smell, no odor, no fumes, NO VOC. (Varies with brand)
Can be retouched or spot repair at any time.
It is pricey
It’s not a durable as polyurethane finish
More natural look vs shiny poly

50E39DCB-2128-4DCA-967F-E827C30B3C5D.jpg

C0EA602D-140D-4558-920E-76E9AEBE915D.jpg


Been there with toxic Gym seal, oil based poly, water based poly........

Exactly thats what I wanted, I will buy Hard Wax Oil wood floor as you mentioned as it fits my requirements.

One question please- do I need to apply wood filler before I apply this Hard wax oil or i can just apply hard wax oil directly on raw sanded wood?

can you please check these 3 brands and tell me which one I should buy?

https://www.westwindhardwood.com/product/oli-natura/hard-wax-oil/

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/in...ood-safe-100-voc-free-brown-250-ml/1001411938

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...36-osmo-polyx-satin-hard-wax-oil?item=27K2725


also this link I found

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/hardwax-oil


Thanks again
 
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Kaizen

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I am doing this all the very first time and its cold here in Canada, so i dont think so it will dry as expected.

Can you suggest some brand name for water based poly you mentioned?

and any idea about Hemp oil and wood filler?

Regards


Not sure what you have up there.
All of these products- natural or artificial- require certain temperatures to cure. Not just room but floor should be above that mark.


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CarBikeGuy70

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Look at products from Bona. Their line will cover any need. Simply stated they will let you seal and protect your floor and offer great durability. The water based products are great - I have used their products over the last few years with fantastic results. Easy to find here in the states and I am sure the same in Canada.
 

Showkey

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Exactly thats what I wanted, I will buy Hard Wax Oil wood floor as you mentioned as it fits my requirements.

One question please- do I need to apply wood filler before I apply this Hard wax oil or i can just apply hard wax oil directly on raw sanded wood?

can you please check these 3 brands and tell me which one I should buy?

https://www.westwindhardwood.com/product/oli-natura/hard-wax-oil/

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/in...ood-safe-100-voc-free-brown-250-ml/1001411938

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...36-osmo-polyx-satin-hard-wax-oil?item=27K2725


also this link I found

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/hardwax-oil


Thanks again

I was exposed to hard wax oil 9 years ago when I purchased 1000sqft of white oak flooring from Launstein Hard woods.
They recommend Ciranova hard wax oil. Used on that new hardwood install and never looked back. This weekend I renewed just the kitchen area flooring that part of the great room dining room.

The kitchen for obvious reasons gets far more wear and tear, water and spills. Random orbit sander with 3m scotch pad to clean and prepare. Wipe on the ciranova with small wool pad 3 to 4 boards wide. Random orbit sander with wool buffing pad on the new oil for a minute or two and done. Repeat across the room 1 hour room is done. Walk on with socks only that evening. The hard wax oil products go a long way. On The 200 sqft renew I maybe use a 1/3 of baby food jar.

Launstein applied the hard wax oil at the factory. I purchased a quart at that time. 9 years later the quart is almost gone. The product skims on top during storage. The other part of the home is still with the factory oil only the kitchen has been renewed. There is no way a poly finish could be renewed in my situation with completely renewing the 1000 sqft.

My total experience is with Ciranova and Rubio products. Know others the used OSMO products and loved them. I would stick witha euro branded products as they have doing this for years.

Ciranova is harder to find than some of the other brands.

From your link the OLI NATURA Hard Wax Oil looks like a fine product similar to what I have used.



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Jackfre

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I use Dura-seal products and have not had odor problems, but I was able to ventilate the space as it wasn’t dead of winter. I think you have to do the filler, re-sand and apply your finish. The DS handled well. I’ve done some flooring but am far far from being a pro, but she has decided that I did enough of a good job that she is going to let me do the upstairs. So lucky!
 

Ralf11

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Osmo PolyX - German & they make it out of some kind of tropical nut oil

very hard and easy to touch up - a cabinet maker tipped me off on it and I use it on all my wood trim now
 
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handyman2020

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Toronto
can someone please confirm if I have to do the wood filling and re-sand again or I can just go with the hard wax oil?

I can do wood filling but unfortunately i just cant re-sand it again.

Best Regards
 

50pascals

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Rochester, NY
Do you have open pores, knots, or grain in the freshly sanded wood that you don't like? That's all the filler will do - fill them. I've put in a good amount of raw hardwood and never filled it before applying the finish.
 

dcg9381

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I have a family member that does high end wood work (natural slab, etc) and fabrication. This is a vanity top that we're doing in a home that I'm building. It's coated in a catalytic varnish - I can find out what it is specifically if it interests you.. It does "smell" initially during the catalytic drying process, but afterwards it smells about as much as the finish on your car. It's highly durable.... No re-touching, re-oiling, etc.
 

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handyman2020

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Do you have open pores, knots, or grain in the freshly sanded wood that you don't like? That's all the filler will do - fill them. I've put in a good amount of raw hardwood and never filled it before applying the finish.

so just apply wood filler wherever required, I thought for some reason I have to apply over every single inch after sanding.
 

Showkey

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can someone please confirm if I have to do the wood filling and re-sand again or I can just go with the hard wax oil?

I can do wood filling but unfortunately i just cant re-sand it again.

Best Regards


Wood filling not required but would depend on your desired look and final “flatness”. Filling is usually used before poly where the finish is on top of the wood where a flat glass gloss is desired. Filling where a penetrating finish is used would need to be tested to be sure the filler takes the oilwax the same as the base wood.

I had the white oak wire brushed to open the grain more before a white stain wipe to fill the grain slightly with white for a different look.
 

brianh

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grahamsville NY
Another vote for Varathane satin it is tough I use it on furniture now after using on floors. It wears better on chairs and tables better than the catalized finish I used to use.
 

dfiler2

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I've used a lot of poly and never had a problem but the "Hardwax oil' sounds interesting, I think I will give that a try myself. Try to find some similar wood and try it on a scrap first to make sure its what you want, I would also try some wood filler in a dent or hole to make sure the filler will take the hardwax oil finish.
 

dcg9381

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Look at: https://refinedelements.com/

Owner does a lot of high end wood work. What he recommends (that you can buy in the USA) as a finish for wood that is used by high end cabinet guys is:

Sherwin Williams White Water Conversion Varnish. (It's catalytic, spray on)
 

Troy32323

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Shoreham NY
Tuna oil is about as natural as you can get and gets great reviews. I was going to try it on some steps but used polywhey 3500 which is very low VOC as it made out of whey. It worked well but definitely interested in trying true natural tung oil. Be careful a lot of tung oil is modified with chemicals so look for pure tung oil
 

Shakes_26

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I used Benwood Stays Clear from Benjamin Moore for my workbench, after drying zero odor and surprisingly resilient. And I'm not kind to it.

Generally speaking any water based poly will be low VOC.
 

didit

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We refinished the 80 year old oak hardwood floors at my daughter's house by replacing any pieces that were damaged or missing. We used a biscuit cutter to cut tongue and grooves where necessary fit them using white glue. After everything was set good we did the initial floor sanding. The sawdust collected in that process was mixed with white construction glue, made into a paste and spread and pressed into all cracks, seams, voids, etc. The trick is to not use more than you need in order to make the final sanding easier. Doing this achieves excellent color blending. We used Varathane and kept the house ventilated and really had no problems with drying. The next day there was no noticable lingering smell and the Varathane was hard as nails after a few days. Minimal outgassing. It was winter and not far from you. We sold the house and were complimented about the floors by all that seen them and were asked many times if we would be available to do other floors.
 
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Showkey

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https://osmocolorusa.com/ Apply it with a floor buffer and a white 3M buffer pad.

hello, is this natural and no odor?
Regards

There does seem some confusion on the different OSMO products and the VOC natural hard wax. VOC <270g/liter. (Vegetable oils and waxes)

I ordered matte and satin Polyx oil on Amazon. It’s to replace my Ciranova Hard wax that almost gone.

Found the Polyx oil-wax to very similar to Ciranova in looks in the can, looks or appearance on test pieces, application techniques , odor/smell ( lack of).

The can warning mention OSMO a is combustible. I no longer have the Ciranova can for the warning comparison.

Not seeing a huge difference in satin vs matte. Maybe on second coat with buff the sheen might change slightly. On restoration one coat is the norm.
No smell or odor after 5 minutes. Safe for toys

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