To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Anyone Else still Brushing Polyurethane?

lardy1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2019
Messages
3,387
Location
Michigan
What are you using for brushes? I'm currently using a Wooster Pro nylon bristle brush and am not unhappy with it. I'm just wondering if I'm in the dark about better options. I use Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane exclusively. Solvent based.

Thanks
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

dcummer

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2010
Messages
211
Location
Mass
I've used Purdy 144380430 White Bristle Series Sprig Flat Trim Paint Brush, 3 inch several times and have no complaints, but I'm certainly no expert at this. Same Minwax solvent based polyurethane.
 

metaldad

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2011
Messages
7,730
Location
nw indiana
ive poly'd alot of oak trim, doors at my houses.
some finished great, some not.
not a fan of water based
used minmax oil based, gloss, semi, satin.
perdy brushes.
have used foam brushes, meh.
used varathane with poor results.
had a small project. mixed some varathene gloss 75% with 25% spirits, applied with a paper towel
turned out perfect. not going to waste time or resources cleaning a quality brush anymore
 

GaryM909

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2016
Messages
1,515
Location
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I just refinished all the interior doors in our house. I used Varathane oil based polyurethane satin with a brush. The doors turned out pretty good considering I didn't go crazy sanding them.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0934.jpg
    IMG_0934.jpg
    71.7 KB · Views: 36

ThePostman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2020
Messages
410
Location
Virginia
I've made wine racks, matching coffee and end tables, just don't use a chip brush for poly. Staining, use whatever. Do buy some tweezers, because no matter what brush, you're gonna get that stray
 

MushCreek

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2015
Messages
9,736
Location
Upstate South Carolina
I've never had much luck getting a truly good surface. There's just too much dust or bugs in the air. When I made the maple peninsula top for my kitchen, I finished it with a product called Waterlox, kind of an old-school varnish, I guess. After building up enough coats, it looked good, but had the usual dust in it. I used a cabinet scraper to get it smooth, then buffed it with fine steel wool. It was a lot of work, but came out gorgeous! Satiny smooth. After 60+ years, I finally figured out how to get a furniture-grade finish.

I have a friend that builds really high-dollar guitars. He sands and buffs and polishes until they look like glass. They look like **** when they come out of the spray booth; the magic happens in finishing.
 
OP
L

lardy1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2019
Messages
3,387
Location
Michigan
I've never had much luck getting a truly good surface. There's just too much dust or bugs in the air. When I made the maple peninsula top for my kitchen, I finished it with a product called Waterlox, kind of an old-school varnish, I guess. After building up enough coats, it looked good, but had the usual dust in it. I used a cabinet scraper to get it smooth, then buffed it with fine steel wool. It was a lot of work, but came out gorgeous! Satiny smooth. After 60+ years, I finally figured out how to get a furniture-grade finish.

I have a friend that builds really high-dollar guitars. He sands and buffs and polishes until they look like glass. They look like **** when they come out of the spray booth; the magic happens in finishing.


I'm getting a lot better after years of stagnant, no progress, never getting much better. What you refer to has been my experience. Learning to sand and polish properly without being instructed. Being retired, I can now "play" more with my projects because I have the luxury of time.

I've had terrible experience with foam brushes. I long ago abandoned that and it would take someone I highly regarded to get me to reverse that decision. Pretty much the same way with steel wool, with some exceptions.

By sanding finer and flatter I'm getting a lot better results from a bristle brush. I'm basically wondering if some of you have a specific brand/model that you like. Maybe my Wooster is good enough and I just need to keep refining my technique.
 

demarpaint

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
1,237
Location
Long Island
I use a pure bristle brush for polyurethane if I'm brushing it. They work much better than nylon or any of the man made synthetic bristle brushes for polyurethane.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

turbowoodworker

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
3,519
Location
Apex NC
For satin finish, I've gone to wipe on poly. Very easy. But for high gloss, which I rarely use, I do use a Purdy brush.
 

strutaeng

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2011
Messages
2,240
Location
Dallas, TX
I used to use the foam brushes, but I've discovered that China bristle brushes seems to work better. I've got a Purdy one. I just sainted and clear coated Minwax semi gloss on my stair treads and the finish turned out flawless; looks sprayed. I reduced with maybe 10% mineral spirits +/-. You just have to clean the brush, but it takes about 1/2 to 1 pint of mineral spirits.

More importantly, I think the modern oil polyurethanes have less solvent than before due to VOC regulations and to get faster dry times. Foam brushes used to get me a real nice finish, or so it seemed back in the early 2000s. Hadn't really used much oil poly until recently. Just add a bit more solvent...

No need to spray oil for DIY projects, unless you are doing some really intricate pieces. It flows out really nice.
 

Prospecter

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2015
Messages
2,386
Location
Maine
I always use a natural china bristle brush for solvent based finishes. I'm not particular about the brand. I stick with Minwax so I don't need to worry about compatibility. If I'd started with another brand, that would be the brand I'd still be using. I stick with satin finishes because they are more forgiving of my lazy prep work.
 

dogdog

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
for me ...Brush only for Polyurethane, cheap chip brush from HF... but will take few coats. and few light sanding in between coats if I wanted it really nice...diluted with paint thinner(I think have to check) for final coat and cut and buff with a mist of water and buffing compound on the final coat.
 

Jeff

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Messages
2,706
Location
Sonova Beach
After an initial spit coat I apply all the urethanes by hand with a soaked washcloth. I use 000 steel wool between coats.
 

toolmiser

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
1,653
Location
La Crosse, WI
I usually brush, but found that I need to add a little thinner to make it flow better and dry quicker. Yes it means more coats, but it's worth the cost.
 

Git

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2008
Messages
6,894
Location
S Cal
I usually spray but if I have to brush I use a Wooster Foam King

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • Tri -  1259.jpg
    Tri - 1259.jpg
    87.2 KB · Views: 83
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom