Tonite's WTF... flex head line wrenches
- Thread starter eschoendorff
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Acording to LTI, it's a must have product ... 
OP
eschoendorff
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Of course! I have been lost without them....ImportTuner said:Acording to LTI, it's a must have product ...
Jbullfrog
ALLIANCE MEMBER
It is a great idea. LTI supplies to all of the tool trucks, so soon the Mac and Snap-on guys will have these for a fenominal price.
IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I like how they want your tool ideas...I guess so they can steal them and make money off of you
kartracer55
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wilbilt said:The LT-680 "Lower Control Arm Tool" is pretty scary. Just to think I used to do them with just a pry bar. It looks like I didn't know what I was missing...:
Lol Yeah that does look pretty freakin scary! Ive seen this exact same Item on the Snap On truck too.
I too learned to use a prybar whenever you need to remove lower balljoints for whatever reason. Alot of people use a fork but it screws up the boot, so you need to replace them even if they were in OK condition... Have one guy hang on the pry bar and another guy smack the lower control arm with a good sized hammer and you can pop them right out. Pretty slick.
JIm
strizzy
Well-known member
wilbilt said:The LT-680 "Lower Control Arm Tool" is pretty scary. Just to think I used to do them with just a pry bar. It looks like I didn't know what I was missing...
I believe TNT has his own creation like this...
kartracer55
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wilbilt said:
How would you pop the taper before prying down while still being able to use the ball joint? Im tryin to learn whatever I can so anything I can get is awesome
Jim
kartracer55 said:
Assuming a FWD vehicle with strut suspension (not going to explode and fling a coil spring at you)...just loosen/remove the ball joint nut with the weight off of it. Smack the knuckle with a brass hammer in the vicinity of the ball joint, and the shock should break the taper loose.
Pry the control arm down, and the BJ shank should come right out.
kartracer55
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wilbilt said:
Just like a tie rod end then. I dont know, I have always fought with the ball joints I have done, but I have only done a handfull of jobs involving ball joints. Im kinda slow with them so I only get to work them when its like the ONLY job in the shop and I have lotsa time, ya know?
Thanks for the info!
Jim
A lot of the time, you can tighten those tools until you are blue and the joint won't pop loose. They can, however, be used to preload the BJ so that a carefully placed tap will pop the taper.
It often depends on the vehicle and the suspension design.
It often depends on the vehicle and the suspension design.
I've always used the BFH method with the ball joints. If that doesn't work, I'll put the nut on backwards and tap the nut a couple times. Usually doesn't work, but it stops me from throwing the hammer across the room.
As far as the flex head line wrenches.... Maybe when working with some ABS units? Maybe some master cylinders? (Thinking old VW/Porsche on that last one.)
As far as the flex head line wrenches.... Maybe when working with some ABS units? Maybe some master cylinders? (Thinking old VW/Porsche on that last one.)
kartracer55
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The problem with using a ball joint press or hitting the threads (even with a nut) if you do not absolutly need too, is that you risk damaging the threads, so you can not reuse them. Alot of people are simply short on cash or just plain cheap and do not want the ball joints replaced when we are already "there" doing the work. Not my problem... it just costs them more in the long run when they fail 5,000 miles down the road and need to have them done anyway.
Jim
Jim
arkracing
Well-known member
wilbilt said:
I don't know about the brass hammer thing - seems everytime I used one for beating on a knuckle it would dig the face of the hammer all up. I just use a regular BFH (3lb'r). One or two real good whacks usually does it.
That's the whole point of using a brass hammer. The softness of the brass transfers the momentum to the work piece better than a steel hammer that will bounce. Kind of along the same lines as a dead blow. Plus, the brass will deform before your workpiece.
A lot of machinists use brass hammers instead of dead blows for this reason.
A lot of machinists use brass hammers instead of dead blows for this reason.
I'm looking for a ball joint tool myself. No rush on it but I know I'm going to need it some time in the next year or so. What tool did you end of geting ? The only ones I see are the Astro and the OTC. Any other brands that a reasonable price around or would I have to step up to the Snap-On/Mac tools level to get more choices ?
Edit:
I just realized I posted this in the completelty wrong thread.....
Edit:
I just realized I posted this in the completelty wrong thread.....
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ColdDuckTime
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I'm going to hold out for the ratcheting ones with a built-in LED.
TNToy
Well-known member
Leverage is your friend.
Damn straight.
Grab the end of the handle, and you can pull it down with one hand. Wedging a prybar between the frame and the arm takes a lot more effort - hook this thing onto the arm out by the balljoint, and you have a lot more leverage.
I did have to cut the hook off of it and make it into a "T" shape, but otherwise it's still working just like this:
(scroll down)
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5987
I have to admit, though, that I don't use it all that often. I try to do repairs in pairs (do something on one side of the car, do the other side at the same time)... So I use a big ratchet-strap rated at about 10,000 lbs, hook it to the outer end of each arm, and crank it tight. It pulls both arms down all the way, and you have both hands free.
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