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Axel seals

smalltown

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Jul 9, 2015
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Western Maine
Almost ready to remove, and replace my rear axels seals, and then the pinion seal on the front of the differential.

Never done either before so I'm going very slow. I have the seals from Ford, but don't have a special tools to seat the seals. If I lube the seals with some grease do you think I could very slowly tap all around the new seals to install them ?

I was even thinking a small block of wood to help to push evenly all around,
I do not have a socket large enough to tap them in either.

Any thoughts ?
 
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Bogie1632

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Southeastern Wisconsin
I've done a few with just a hammer, some with a steel or brass drift, amongst other less than ideal options. Oddly enough, the tool truck doesn't stop by our shops in places like Afghanistan or Iraq so you have to improvise. If you don't plan on getting an appropriate tool a piece of PVC pipe works well for this and I would recommend that before tapping with just a hammer. You just don't want to warp the seal so be gentle.

Good luck.

V/R
Bogie
 
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smalltown

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PVC pipe sounds like something I could use ! Thanks for the suggestion Bogie1632.
I'll run out and measure my seals.
 

icthruu74

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Jul 26, 2015
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Michigan
I’ve used large sockets too (that’s actually how I was taught).

Only time I’ve done a pinion seal I was doing carrier bearings too so I’m not sure (on a GM 12 bolt), but can you just replace the pinion seal without having to set preload?
 
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smalltown

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619DioFan I read all the reviews sounds like there are no instructions. Am I correct looking at it that I would first install the metal disc on the handle, and then whatever plastic disc that would fit inside, and center the seal ?

Started looking on Amazon for seal install kits there they seem to be aluminum, and at the same time many of the kits look the same with different names. I wonder is this like the thread restorer kits that are all (pretty much) made by the same company under different names ?
 
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joecon

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Oct 4, 2010
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If you decide to use plastics pipe a pipe cap works well. It will give you some place to hit.
 

seanb02

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Apr 11, 2017
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The Farm
A dead blow hammer works well for driving seals when the proper seal driver isn't on hand. No point in purchasing a kit of different drivers if you don't see yourself using it often in the future.
 

619DioFan

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San Diego , Ca.
619DioFan I read all the reviews sounds like there are no instructions. Am I correct looking at it that I would first install the metal disc on the handle, and then whatever plastic disc that would fit inside, and center the seal ?

Started looking on Amazon for seal install kits there they seem to be aluminum, and at the same time many of the kits look the same with different names. I wonder is this like the thread restorer kits that are all (pretty much) made by the same company under different names ?

The set I have is the 10 piece all aluminum, the other set has plastic discs. on that one you would put the large washer on first then the disc. I went with the aluminum as I use them often.
 

xjfish

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Feb 22, 2014
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Large chrome axle nut sockets are pretty inexpensive individually at an auto parts store.
 
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smalltown

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be careful you don't mess up the preload when doing the pinion seal

HMCFab9 I plan on marking the parts with a paint stick, and counting the threads before I start. I'm hoping that I will be able to reassemble like it was before I started.
 
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smalltown

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Desertskyy

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Oct 28, 2012
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So Cal, Ventura Co.
Almost ready to remove, and replace my rear axels seals, and then the pinion seal on the front of the differential.

Never done either before so I'm going very slow. I have the seals from Ford, but don't have a special tools to seat the seals. If I lube the seals with some grease do you think I could very slowly tap all around the new seals to install them ?

I was even thinking a small block of wood to help to push evenly all around,
I do not have a socket large enough to tap them in either.

Any thoughts ?

Replacing the axle bearings while the axles are pulled?

How many miles are on the vehicle?

I have used the old bearings to tap in the new seals
 

Djosbun

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Oct 29, 2017
Messages
236
Location
Ohio
I've never heard of a seal affecting bearing pre-load.

Some axle seals are flat, some are not, so be careful where you apply the installation pressure. If it's a spring supported seal, you can cause the spring to pop out and not realize it until you notice the leak.

-- Dave
 

icthruu74

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Jul 26, 2015
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Location
Michigan
I've never heard of a seal affecting bearing pre-load.

-- Dave

I’m going on ONE experience rebuilding a diff, so I certainly could be wrong, but it felt to me like you’d have to remove the yolk to get the seal out. At which point I though you’re supposed to change the crush sleeve and reset pinion preload. But I again, my experience is very low on this.
 

Wrench97

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Jun 23, 2018
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Southeastern Pa
I've never heard of a seal affecting bearing pre-load.

Some axle seals are flat, some are not, so be careful where you apply the installation pressure. If it's a spring supported seal, you can cause the spring to pop out and not realize it until you notice the leak.

-- Dave

Yes it does, the pinion bearing preload is set by a "non" reusable crush sleeve placed between the bearings, you torque the yoke nut on and it crushes the sleeve to obtain the preload.


attachment.php


crushsleeve.JPG
 

Oldsnapper

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Jun 26, 2016
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Stony Plain Alberta
When I work in a automotive dealership, if we had to change a pinion seal, we would take a small chisel and make a make small cut into the end of the pinion shaft and the nut at same time. We would then that the nut of and replace the seal. We would the put the nut back on, tightening unit the marks lined up or were 1/8 of an inch tighter than where they were when removed.
 

jsaw

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Oct 11, 2008
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Geneva, N.Y.
When I work in a automotive dealership, if we had to change a pinion seal, we would take a small chisel and make a make small cut into the end of the pinion shaft and the nut at same time. We would then that the nut of and replace the seal. We would the put the nut back on, tightening unit the marks lined up or were 1/8 of an inch tighter than where they were when removed.

That is the method described in service info, and the way that I do it also.
 
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