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Attaching metal brackets to granite

dcg9381

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I'm installing a new (inductive) cooktop. Manual states that the cook top needs to sit on top of "L" brackets per code. In regular counters, these brackets just screw into the counter top.

We've got granite (or other substantially hard counters). The manual states if we have granite, we need a $100+ Granite Countertop Installation kit # 903061-9010.. This is a set of brackets with silicone. Is this type of silicone sufficient to hold these brackets and keep them attached to granite? I'd expect some type of epoxy.

Many people have indicated they'd just use the existing brackets.

The silicone used in this kit is:

Dow Corning 1892070 732 Clear Multi-Purpose Sealant, -60 to 180 Degree C, 300 mL
 

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zeke67

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What are you questioning? Whether the factory recommended kit will do what they say it will do? Or whether there is a lower cost work around or DIY approach that will work using epoxy. I think if you can afford granite (and an inductive cook top) buy their kit. Shouldn't have any problems and if you to then their warranty shall cover it.
 

bob15

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Why not just follow what manual states? In the grand scheme of things, is a hundred bucks really that much versus buying a different product that may or may-not work?
 

chinboys

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the bracket could be a better design to also allow it to adhere to the bottom of the granite countertop.
modern adhesives of the epoxy type are very good but I would not use that cooktop's brackets but instead use under-mount sink clips that have an epoxy glue mesh backing to hold up the unit.
or build a shelf attached to the sides of the cabinet to hold it up.
 

LXCam

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Dow Corning 732 is a exceptionally good adhesive and it remains almost crystal clear forever. I wouldn’t think twice about that recommendation or what PD suggested.
 
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dcg9381

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Gravity isn't sufficient? Where is this cooktop going to go?

Apparently there is a code issue here. If the cooktop surface cracks, it is possible for it to "fall through" without those brackets. And "some" of these cooktops actually require a space between the counter and the cooktop itself for venting.



Why not just follow what manual states? In the grand scheme of things, is a hundred bucks really that much versus buying a different product that may or may-not work?


I'm going to do what the manual states, but had doubts about the adhesion of silicone.. Apparently (based on above) whatever this adhesive is, it works...
 
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walta

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When they installed my GE induction top the installers just set it in the hole. It was fine then I found the manual with the roll of double sided tape. The tape lifted the top so now the crumbs can get in the gap making it harder to keep clean. At this point I wish I had not installed the tape but not enough to make me remove the tape.

I could see a problem should something harder than both the countertop and the glass got in between them that would tend to concentrate the weight of the top and everything on it in one small point and you risk cracking the top.

Walta
 

yatg

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Amazon sells the kit, and its just 4 brackets, maybe bigger than what they gave you, and a tube of silicone. Looking at the diagram, the spring spacers keep the stove away from the bracket. Screw the supplied brackets to the side of the cabinets. Its pretty much the same as screwing them to the countertop. If the countertop overhangs, then add spacers behind the bracket.
 

rlitman

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How deep are these brackets? Do they extend into the cabinet space? Can they be supported by wood bridging below that is attached to the cabinet?

My first thought would be to VHB tape the bracket to the granite, and provide structural support from below. But after a moment, I'm agreeing with the silicone idea. Specifically because silicone is less likely to let go when hot than any other good option (epoxy or tape, or even 3M 5200).

Either way, do NOT drill the granite.
 
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dcg9381

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How deep are these brackets? Do they extend into the cabinet space? Can they be supported by wood bridging below that is attached to the cabinet?

Either way, do NOT drill the granite.

Brackets are 3-4 inches deep. Looking at it, I think I can "reverse" them (upside down and attach them to the cabinets...
 

firebirdparts

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When I replaced mine the last time, I thought about bridging over with something that made me more "comfortable" but I never did. It just sits on the granite. I have not installed the brackets . The sinks we have were all installed under the counter with silicone, and so it seem a bit odd, but you know they're pretty darn heavy plus dishes and full of water.
 

rlitman

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Brackets are 3-4 inches deep. Looking at it, I think I can "reverse" them (upside down and attach them to the cabinets...

If you have room, that may be the best option. It does require some precision positioning, but it shouldn't be all that bad. Just remember to pre-drill when you put screws into a cabinet face-frame.
 
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dcg9381

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Thanks, guys, I got it. This particular cook top sits directly on the counter surface. It looks like the brackets simple are present to keep it in place (centered). I'm able to attach them by flipping the brackets and attaching them to the cabinet space.

Good to know that there are more than adequate adhesives for granite. I appreciate all the advice.
 
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