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2021 Garage Sale Thread

d42jeep

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OR, electrolysis is easy, don’t overthink it - which is totally counterintuitive when you’re starting out. Just use some washing soda (more is better) in your water to improve the flow of ‘trons. And don’t use galvanized metal as your sacrificial piece, it’ll create heavy metal-contamination. It’s a line of sight process, so closer to your sacrificial metal and deducting piece are, that helps.

I’ve never used it with tools, but it’s crazy easy with cast iron skillets. And ductile steel vises.

I don’t know if you noticed, but Old Radar found a 41-B-154 FSN marked Mossberg crossbar posted upthread. I couldn’t find anything out about the FSN. It’s one number off of the GMTK bar. I just mention it because you might want to add it to your FSN database.

We tried to go to an estate sale in the Hayward hills today. We arrived 4 hours after it opened and there was still probably 25 people in line. We turned around and left. I’m done with estate sale lines.
-Don
 
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Outlawmws

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RTM, you really don't want ANY non-ferrous metals in the E-tank, Copper, any plating, Stainless can have serous issues depending on composition. cadmium, etc.

Iron, steel if not stainless variants, Cast iron, all safe and the residue and old solution are safe, if iron rich. heavy metal contamination leads to disposal problems, and this is why most Chrome plating on cars is a thing of the past (try to find a place to re-chrome old bumpers today...) Many of those places are now cleanup sites, if not Superfund sites. (Fo Mo Co. "Owns" the remediation for a site I used to work at as part of the sale of the place. They had a plating shop there, and a not very big one... So that responsibility goes forever...)

So to be safe the wires in the soup should be iron/steel - Coat hanger wire for hooks and/or rebar tie wire. (which is cheap and available everywhere)
 

LesserSon

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I am not a chemist, but...
Any process that promises to remove rust and nothing else is deceptive. ‘Rust” itself is deceptive. Whatever is in or on steel besides iron and carbon is going to leave something in the rust, and potentially contaminate the process and/or the waste products.
Really, regardless of the stage props, any process that moves electrons - and that includes electrolysis, Evaporust, and molassas fermentation - is going to break the weakest bonds first - cadmium, zinc, etc.
I am not a physicist, but...
Line of sight is an approximation that ignores things like gravity, relative velocity, magnetic fields, etc. Electron exchange follows the path of least conductive resistance, not necessarily a straight line. If electrons really followed straight paths, the power companies would be out of business, motors would not turn, Netflix would not stream. Life would be impossible.
If you have seen lightning, you may have noticed how crooked a path it can take. Even our line of sight is not straight. Again with the gravity! And refraction.
 
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Outlawmws

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OR I think my response answers part of your question - there is a thread on E-tanks here where this has been discussed at length. There is also plenty of Electrolysis information with a search.

Having said that, there is also quite a bit of misinformation out there about how the safety concerns are unsubstantiated. (Like: "Prove to me that its NOT safe, because unless you do, then your concern is unfounded"... )

I'm not going to argue with people that are placing self proclaimed debating rules ahead of safety... Those people are called trolls... I get my info from engineers, plating people that KNOW what they are talking about, and industry standards and papers, and filter out the Darwin award candidates...

Keep it to iron and steel and its very safe. People that don't listen or care will get these hobby activities outlawed with big fines for doing ANY of it... Personally I'm sick and tired of my hobbies being legislated...
 

dodge610

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0b72a80292bca179b189c594b5d13890.jpg
This is a little different post a buddy of mine is getting into vintage tools and boxes we just grabbed him this yesterday for $40 should clean up nicely.


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Private Lugnutz

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I don’t know if you noticed, but Old Radar found a 41-B-154 FSN marked Mossberg crossbar posted upthread. I couldn’t find anything out about the FSN. It’s one number off of the GMTK bar. I just mention it because you might want to add it to your FSN database.
That bar is in the 1945 ORD 5 SNL J-4. You may not recall that I transcribed most of the tools that were directly related or possibly associated with the GMTK and other upper echelon tools, by FSN and type, in a thread on G503.com, linked here.
 

d42jeep

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That bar is in the 1945 ORD 5 SNL J-4. You may not recall that I transcribed most of the tools that were directly related or possibly associated with the GMTK and other upper echelon tools, by FSN and type, in a thread on G503.com, linked here.

Thanks for the reminder. I obviously read it at the time since I posted on it. I only mentioned the crossbar because Steve has been tracking found examples.
-Don
 

Old Radar

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I am not a chemist, but...

I am not a physicist, but...

...but both you and Outlaw stay at Holiday Inn Express!!

Thanks for the insights, both of you! I guess I'll just be more selective of what rusty gold I pick up from now on, since there doesn't really seem to be a truly safe, healthy and environmentally sound method to remove rust that is not damaging to the item I'm trying to save.
 

Private Lugnutz

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Thanks for the reminder. I obviously read it at the time since I posted on it. I only mentioned the crossbar because Steve has been tracking found examples.
Roger. Understood. I was only reminding you since you said you couldn't find any information on the FSN that OR found, and it's in the ORD 5 SNL J-4. So I figured you may have forgotten to look there. The SNL J-2 and J-4 lists I posted are a superset of FSNs for most hand tools, with full nomenclature and description, whether found or not.
 

LesserSon

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JAKE’S OPENED TODAY!
$28 brought home a couple rough boxes and contents. A couple treats emerged from the dross.
Also spotted a few cool things (e.g. vises) for another time - or another customer!
 

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Levaughn

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I picked these up at a Yard Sale today. Plomb 1" wrench #1232 , Ryobi Jig Saw, Garmin 360, and an S-K # 40954 1/4 inch spinner handle. All the items were $2 each except the Garmin 360 which was $7.
 

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Outlawmws

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And back on the Yardsale track; you guys! - Your KILLING it!

Very minimal here,. I barely cracked the "tool Barrier"

2 planned stops and one TOO in between.

First Stop Moving sale I wish I'd got there 5-10 min earlier, missed on several dirt cheap "Drum Circle" drums - A medium and small conga, and a Djembe...

I DID get this wood Gato, "Tongue" drum. has a nice tone and 8 notes (the front and back bars are also playable)


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As well as a fist full of sticks I cherry picked from a couple of 5 gallon buckets.

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One of the hickory drum sticks is going to become a hammer handle:

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At the TOO I picked up a souvenir bat and a pair of NICE hickory drum sticks - A buck!

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And the Last stop I got this Craftsman Grinder stand with a very old (110V) Westinghouse motor. Not sure the motor is savable - I didn't care, the stand was the goal..:

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3baygarage

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Neat finds Outlaw. Never seen that instrument. I see a stick marked timbale. A high school band mate if mine was an excellent timbale player.

Nice stand too.

LS- nice haul of interesting oldies. What’s the odd double box wrench?
 

3baygarage

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Flea finds some weeks back.

Armstrong Teletype wrench set
Klein pliers
Large Whitworth Blue Point Supreme wrench
S-K ratchet tools
Herbrand and Craftsman adjustables
Ideal bit drivers
Broken Leatherman
 

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3baygarage

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Hit two fleas that day. The rest of the haul. A nice mix of old sockets, Craftsman tools, Snap On, Williams, Mac, some wood working tools, tap handles, a few oddities, even a Stanley bottle opener.

Sockets from Bonney, Proto 3/4, NB, Westline.

Beaver Cutter I made a thread about.

Proto mini 3/8 drive sockets. Never seen these before. I looked hard to find the whole set but this was it.

Winchester large curved jaw pliers. Thought these were neat and useful. Winchester name marked in the handle as well.
 

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3baygarage

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Cont.

Snap On 9/32 t

some misc Snap On including a nice nut splitter with the bar for $5, misc Mac, Craftsman wrench sockets, Williams and Vulcan, Plomb ext, Utica 4” and Crescent 6” wrenches.

The brass hammer is a Gorham. Didn’t find much info. Maybe silver related?

The L handle socket wrench is unmarked. Thought maybe Mossberg but don’t see any markings.
 

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Outlawmws

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Well, I got a surprise - that ancient motor got a few drops of oil and started turning nicely by hand, so I replaced the cord and dang if it doesn't just run! I even loaded the wire wheel a bit and it didn't drag down - Rated 1/4 HP but draws 4.7 amps...

Edit - I found a similar styled 1/6 HP motor dated to 1928? :dunno: I can't see any date code on this one.


Holy Cow 3Bay! - and you ain't done posting yet!
 
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captain14

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Well, I got a surprise - that ancient motor got a few drops of oil and started turning nicely by hand, so I replaced the cord and dang if it doesn't just run! I even loaded the wire wheel a bit and it didn't drag down - Rated 1/4 HP but draws 4.7 amps...


Holy Cow 3Bay! - and you ain't done posting yet!

Does that count as a double ****? The stand and a working grinder?
 
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steaks&anvils

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The brass hammer is a Gorham. Didn’t find much info. Maybe silver related?

3baygarage,

The silversmithing/metal working book: "Creative Metal forming" by Betty Helen Longhi and Cynthia Eid references Gorham silversmiths making their own custom hammers.

Appendix: Making, Altering & Refinishing Tools, under "making hammers" pg 233.

See pictures attached.
 

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LesserSon

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LS- nice haul of interesting oldies. What’s the odd double box wrench?
I don’t know; I’ll have to do more searching. R.M.CO 14330 6pt DBE. Maybe 11/16 x 5/8. I don’t see discoloration at the weird offset.
 

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LesserSon

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What really caught my attention today was this 8” open-handled brass-spined back saw. The saw nuts told me it was from after December 1887, but scraping the rust off with a dull screwdriver tells me it’s from before 1900. George H. Bishop & Co relocated from Cincinnati, O, to Lawrenceburg, IN, in 1899.
This sort of reprises the derusting method discussion: different methods for different reasons. If I use chemistry, I would lose the magentite and probably never see the etch. If I use mineral abrasives, I could probably get a mirror polish (desireable if I intended to use this saw), but again, lose the etch. I’d probably assume it was a Disston, and wonder why the catalogs only show 10” as the smallest size. Like all of us who like to get the rust off, I wish I could have been there 50 years ago (or so) to prevent it from starting. I’d tell “B XII” he didn’t have to gouge the handle so deep, too.
 

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Old Radar

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Outlaw--No question about your suckage.

LS--Very nice job of removing the loose rust--specially with a screwdriver. I usually employ a new razor blade held low and lightly. I can't believe there's that much of the etch left. Are you sure it's an etch as opposed to a light engraving?
 

Rickster

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Garage/Estate sale this morning, guy had a huge Snap-on triple bank toolbox. Got there early and myself and a guy & his kid were the first to go through the box. Lucky for me they’ve never seen a Snap-on drawer grip latch before so I was the only one who knew how to open a drawer...... also the only guy with a flashlight!
 

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LesserSon

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OR -
Yes, I am sure. The two possibilities I am aware of (prior to the invention of laser engraving) are etch or stamp. This is an etch. I do not know the precise method used by sawmakers. As a kid, I did some acid etching on plates to make intaglio prints. We coated clean metal plates with a resist, scratched through the resist with an awl, then submerged the plates in an acid bath. When the plates came out, removed the resist. The resultant etched lines held ink while the smooth areas could be wiped clean. Then the inked plate and paper were rolled through a press.
Engraving, as I understand the term, is to incise the surface directly with a tool - a freehand operation not suitable for mass-produced uniformity. You could say we engraved the resist, but we did not engrave the steel thus exposed - the acid etched it.
What I imagine sawmakers did was apply a resist to the saw blade with some sort of stencil (or maybe the stencil was the resist). For economy, I assume this was a localized portion of the blade. Then painted an acid over the resist. I doubt the economy of having to coat most of a blade and submerging it, but I really don’t know how they did it.
 
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RTM

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This sort of reprises the derusting method discussion: different methods for different reasons. If I use chemistry, I would lose the magentite and probably never see the etch. If I use mineral abrasives, I could probably get a mirror polish (desireable if I intended to use this saw), but again, lose the etch. I’d probably assume it was a Disston, and wonder why the catalogs only show 10” as the smallest size. .

Wow, nice find. I have a circa 1920 WS to attack. The razor blade will get the first pass, removing the gross stuff. Next would be the highest grit sandpaper, on a hard wood block, that I can use. I would prefer to start at 220, but could go lower. The block keeps the paper from dipping into the depth of the etch, keeping it crisp. The lower grits like 120 might start tearing at the edges of the etch. Work the length, parallel to the teeth. If you knock them flat prior, you can sand closer to them, then reset after you sharpen.

Don’t use electrolysis, rumor is that hydrogen embrittlement can occur, weakening the blade.
 

cmccuist1

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I actually got this grinder last year ($65) so it doesn't count in 2021. It's my daily driver. I did get the office light this year though and made the bracket to attach it. It's just a piece of 1" square tubing. A roll pin holds the post in securely.

I only gave $3 for the light. Works as good as a gooseneck.
 

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jeffmoss26

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Garage/Estate sale this morning, guy had a huge Snap-on triple bank toolbox. Got there early and myself and a guy & his kid were the first to go through the box. Lucky for me they’ve never seen a Snap-on drawer grip latch before so I was the only one who knew how to open a drawer...... also the only guy with a flashlight!

oh man!
 

Old Radar

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OR -
Yes, I am sure. The two possibilities I am aware of (prior to the invention of laser engraving) are etch or stamp. This is an etch. I do not know the precise method used by sawmakers.

I think you nailed the etching process as I understand it, LS. I mentioned engraving for two reasons--first, the lettering in your pics seems deeper than a normal etch--could just be the lighting, but that's how it looks to me.
Second, I am unfamiliar with Bishop & Co. so I made the gross assumption that they were a small time concern who were bought out by competitors or went under because they spent so much effort engraving their saws. :lol:
 

Cruzan80

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Brought this home today. 80gal vertical tank. Guy says motor is tripping breaker all of a sudden. He suspects the capacitors. Both motor and pump turn freely. Quincy 325, ROC 12. Tank is 1956. I haven't had a chance yet to hook up the motor without a load to test.

Total? $200.IMG_20210403_190832.jpegIMG_20210403_191003.jpegIMG_20210403_191019.jpegIMG_20210403_191026.jpegIMG_20210403_191035.jpeg

Sent from my IN2015 using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

mikeinri

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bmwrd0

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On Friday, I hit a couple estate sales, with bupkis for results. Someone had pulled out all of the tools from the one with a good shop, and the other one only had some junk homeowners tools. Although there was a nice Snap-on mid box, overpriced at $125. But I stopped at the Restore on the way home and found a few good sockets and a broken SK ratchet. But I pulled the ratchet apart, found the problem and it is now working perfectly. $2


Today, I again hit two sales, the first of which had a good selection of tools.

P&C 18" breaker bar, hatchet handle, Williams 7/8 combo, unmarked body hammer, (3) Craftsman metal shaft chisels, odd little hammer (jewelers?), Williams 9/16 combo, Cornwell (Xcelite) nut driver, Proto break spoon, Williams sockets, Cornwell flex, P&C ratchet, Greenlee chisel, Stanley Bell System driver, Irwin ph2 driver. $32

The other stop was a bust. I ended the day visiting Smokeshow to give him his tool board, a bucket of tools I had been saving for him, and to do a little horse-trading. All in all, a good day!
 
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