Breaker Bars? What's worth it?

[ZenkiS14]

So in the world of breaker bars, realistically having no moving pieces, how nice of a breaker bar is worth it?

All I've ever used is bottom barrel HF breakers, and the only trouble I've ever had was a pin coming loose and falling out of the pivot. And I broke a 3/8" breaker using it with a 6ft cheater, it had no chance lol

So I'm thinking I might want a nice length 1/2 breaker with a comfort grip handle. I'm not thinking a truck-brand is gonna be worth it for weekend warrior wrenching, but what's my next best option? Have you found anything out there that had some feature I am unaware of that you love? lol

 

[jeepnut24]

HF 1/2" comfort grip for $20 and liftetime warranty is really hard to beat.... The swivel fit/finish might lack some for my taste, but its $20 or less back when they had coupons....

 

[d.mcfarland]

Just get the longest 1/2" ratchet you can find with a lifetime warranty.

Then you would have a ratcheting breaker bar.

 

[HaiKarate]

Whatever US branded 1/2" one you find at the swap meet for $5 is going to be your best deal. If you hate money, buy new.

 

[Mechanical Noise]

If the HF bars are doing the job for you, why get something else? The soft grip? You can try a length of heater hose.

HF has a couple of soft grip bars, if you want to try HF again.

 

[ZenkiS14]

If the HF bars are doing the job for you, why get something else? The soft grip? You can try a length of heater hose.

HF has a couple of soft grip bars, if you want to try HF again.

That's what I'm leaning towards, Pittsburgh Pro for $20.

 

[HFlashman]

I purchased a 24 inch Tekton ratchet which is rated at 300 ft lbs instead of a breaker bar and found I use it much more than changing tires. It was about $50, cheaper than some breaker bars.

 

[joey1320]

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-62729.html


$20 Pittsburgh Pro. If you're so inclined, remove the bolt and add some threadlock to it.

 

[unslow1]

I have some truck brands and the HF. Honestly I would recommend the HF.

 

[Shiftless]

Whatever US branded 1/2" one you find at the swap meet for $5 is going to be your best deal. If you hate money, buy new.

Good advice. That’s what I did. But you have to go to a lot of sales and spend many hours looking for a “you ****” deal like a SnapOn or MAC or ??? half inch breaker bar for $5.00
Unless you are like me and a few others who enjoy the thrill of the hunt, just get the HF one and get on with your life.

 

[M635_Guy]

As a weekend warrior, I have a couple breaker bars. A small-ish 3/8" one and a fairly big 1/2" one. The small one was my grandfather's and is easily 50+ years old. The big one is from HF.

I'm not earning income with my tools, and have a variety of things like AutoZone, Napa and HF in a quick/easy drive if I can't get something done with my current tools.

I wouldn't over-think it or over-spend, especially on a breaker bar.

 

[Rinspeed]

I could never understand the 3/8" breaker bar. I have both a SK and HF 1/2" and they are both pretty damn tough.

 

[richfinn]

The dimensions of the knuckle/strength are whats most important to me, all of them will provide the leverage but a really good quality one will fit where a cheaper version may not, for example if your trying to get at a crank pulley bolt up against the frame those few millimetres can make a big big difference.

It's a different tool to a long ratchet, if you buy a good one

I also have a cheap telescopic 3/4" knuckle bar and a few sockets for brute strength

Ko-ken sell some nice ones with comfort or knurled grip

The 3/8" Snap-On is a really great tool for tight access where a flexhead ratchet is a bit bulky

 

[qqzj]

I have a bunch of breaker bars with various length and drive size. The only one I use is the $10 one from HF. Anything requires more effort, I go get my DeWalt big impact wrench.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Jtels85]

I have several of the NAPA Carlyle indexing comfort grip breaker bars. The 23” model is a beast! I’ve used it to break lugs that were on really tight and it did the job. I primarily use it for removing the lug nuts off of my Acura with a 19mm protective socket.

 

[Snapped-off]

I've got a Wright 1/2" and 3/4" at home. I've never even used a breaker bar at home. I've used them a few times at work out of necessity when a ratchet wasn't available.

 

[HaiKarate]

Good advice. That’s what I did. But you have to go to a lot of sales and spend many hours looking for a “you ****” deal like a SnapOn or MAC or ??? half inch breaker bar for $5.00
Unless you are like me and a few others who enjoy the thrill of the hunt, just get the HF one and get on with your life.

I agree - it does take some time - but then again, so does posting here and wading through opinions. I guess if you have to ask, go to HF.

I actually have a HF one I was gifted years ago. Never did trust the thing on any tough jobs (one specific honda crank bolt was one of my worst - broke a long C craftsman 1/2" bar at the joint on that one), but I'm guessing today's quality may be better.

 

[charbar]

I'm not ballsy enough to trust the cheap ones. Bought one of the cheap 25" HF ones for shits and giggles once. First use I had it on a bolt that I wouldn't even call tight and it was flexing so bad I about had it bent in a U shape. I noped right out of that situation before it snapped and sent my fist into my face and **** on the ground. Went and grabbed my snap on. Couldnt even tell you were the HF one went, probably in the trash.

Breaker bars generally get used when you are cranking so hard you are about ready to give yourself a hernia. Do you really want some cheap POS to let go in that situation?

 

[zendriver]

If you really want to hedge your bets on the cheap, go with the Pittsburgh pro 3/4 breaker bar and step it down with the impact adapter.Even better find a three-quarter inch impact socket

Use it with your favorite cheater pipe and whatever you’re trying to turn Will give up - one way or another before it does.

The thing is a beast.


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[unslow1]

Anyone who has any doubts about the HF ones should watch some Youtube videos that test them side by side with others. They do shockingly well. Maybe the old ones couldn't hold up but the new ones sure do.

 

[Taco Truck]

I have a Snap On 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar, and I can't say it does anything my Pittsburgh Pro can't do.

The only real "issue" I see with the Pittsburgh Pro is that you're out of luck if you don't want a comfort grip.

Edit: I also have an 18" 1/2" drive Proto I keep in my truck with a 21mm socket. No complaints there other than the length, but for three bucks it works just fine for some lugnuts.

 

[Ralf11]

the "T" style should be stronger than the swiveling ones

I say buy the cheapest one that won't break - usually that means used. Just take the rust off or oil it.

 

[seber]

The Husky I found at a garage sale for two dollars works just as well as my expensive Bahco and my even more expensive Snap-on. It's what I grab when I'm going to put a cheater on it.

 

[dscheidt]

I could never understand the 3/8" breaker bar. I have both a SK and HF 1/2" and they are both pretty damn tough.

It's a little smaller, and fits in tighter spots. 3/8 sockets and extensions are similarly a bit smaller. A good long handled ratchet will probably take as much torque (the breaking point on the good ones is the drive square, not the ratchet), but that's pretty recent development, and a breaker bar is much cheaper.

 

[m6z]

I bought one of the Icon comfort grip bars over a year ago and still haven't used it. It does look nice. lol. I got the 25" model.

Hindsight, I should have put that $50 towards a Milwaukee stubby impact.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Obviously the HF is entry level choice. That's my home bar. I bought the 30" SK breaker bar for work, which I really like. Much more rigid than the HF one, which when equipped with a pipe bends like a noodle, but does the job. IMO there is still a place for breaker bars, like when wiggling a fastener back and forth, while crushing through the rust. Constantly switching ratchet direction is annoying. All of that said, modern ratchets should hold similar torque levels to a traditional breaker bar.

 

[Iowafox]

I have a few older USA ones and I have a MAC tools one I got for stupid cheap new. But I have to admit I really enjoy my 25inch Pittsburgh Pro comfort grip like many others have suggested. I removed the pin and red locktited it and no issues since. I can't recommend it enough!

 

[M635_Guy]

I bought one of the Icon comfort grip bars over a year ago and still haven't used it. It does look nice. lol. I got the 25" model.

Hindsight, I should have put that $50 towards a Milwaukee stubby impact.

True. I haven't used either breaker bar since getting my Stubby and Mid impacts except for removing the fan from the fan clutch of on of the cars (which is the main reason I have them around, along with the "unknown" I'm sure I'll run into at some point).

 

[Gunfixr]

They were throwing away a 1\2" breaker bar at a shop where I was working, the 1/2" square drive part was snapped right off. I kept it, milled a new part from 4140, hardened it, barely tempered it back, and still have it, 30yrs later. I've put a pretty decent curve to the handle with cheaters multiple times. It has no name on it.
Couple yrs later than I got that, saw a snap on 3/8" breaker, with several different lengths extensions, in a loose tool bin at a pawn shop (that should tell you how long ago it was). It has served well.
When sears was going out of business, I bought the craftsman 3 pc set for 70% off (along with a bunch of other stuff).
The no name 1/2" breaker is longer than the craftsman, so I have options.
I have a 3/4" drive breaker, came with a set, either northern or hf, I can't remember now. It's worked the few times i've used it. Mostly just use the long handled matco ratchet.
It has a piece of garden hose comfort grip.....

 

[demarpaint]

I have the HF 25" breaker bar and had 4' of pipe on the end of it helping my nephew getting lug nuts off a 1 ton PU that were slammed home with at least 3/4" impact gun. We were bouncing on it, it flexed but didn't bend and eventually got the lug nuts off. IIRC I paid $10 for it, it was the best $10 new tool investment I made in years.

 

[Rabid Badger]

Nothing wrong with the Pittsburgh Pro.

 

[Rinspeed]

It's a little smaller, and fits in tighter spots. 3/8 sockets and extensions are similarly a bit smaller.

I hear people say that all the time, about several tools, but I just don't buy into that tighter spots ****. I have a boatload of swivels, flex head ratchets and extensions I just don't see all these "tight" spots where you need to use a weaker tool.

 

[lardy1]

The only thing I ever bought from Harbor Freights is their 24" breaker bar. I used it two days ago with a cheater pipe on it to break the compensator nut on a 2011 Tri-Glide. No place for an impact. It has yet to fail me but I still think I want the 30" SK.

 

[richfinn]

I hear people say that all the time, about several tools, but I just don't buy into that tighter spots ****. I have a boatload of swivels, flex head ratchets and extensions I just don't see all these "tight" spots where you need to use a weaker tool.

Use my Snap-On on 3/8 breaker bar quite a bit on European cars, very useful when changing cambelts on front wheel drive Diesels, sometimes a 3/8" flexhead ratchet can be a bit bulky up against the inner fender/wing, the fulcrum point is also at the square drive instead of further back which can be useful

 

[Ralf11]

Does a breaker bar offer any advantage over a battery powered impact these days?

- other than tight axial access

 

[Al Borland]

I've destroyed a lot of 1/2" breaker bars, enough to find amusement with the name "Breaker bar".
The current HF 24ish long one is flexy, and splits the fork. Sometimes the pin breaks.
The APEX breakers tend to twist the square drives off.
Old Craftsman bars bent
So far the Tractor Supply 3/4 drive hasn't broken with a 6' cheater.
Oh, i also have a 1/4" Craftsman breaker. Bought it for laughs when sears was closing. Dumbest tool I've ever seen.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I've destroyed a lot of 1/2" breaker bars, enough to find amusement with the name "Breaker bar".
The current HF 24ish long one is flexy, and splits the fork. Sometimes the pin breaks.
The APEX breakers tend to twist the square drives off.
Old Craftsman bars bent
So far the Tractor Supply 3/4 drive hasn't broken with a 6' cheater.
Oh, i also have a 1/4" Craftsman breaker. Bought it for laughs when sears was closing. Dumbest tool I've ever seen.

I actually love my 1/4 breaker bar. Perfect for thread chaser use as one can easily change direction without moving the direction lever, which can get annoying. My 1/4 and 3/8 breaker bars are really just for use with crows-feet, torque adapters, and the snap on 90 degree adapters. I've made some whacky looking tools that have made for killer time savings.

 

[richfinn]

Does a breaker bar offer any advantage over a battery powered impact these days?

- other than tight axial access

I think "breaker bar" is a misnomer, flex handle is a better description

I like using the 3/8" for some jobs not because I need the leverage, but tight access and feel
If I need to work a seized bolt back and forth I don't need to mess with the ratchet switch

I think having the fulcrum point at the square drive makes them feel/perform better than a flexhead ratchet in some circumstances

1/2" I'm using for brute force or holding a seized bolt whilst I unscrew the nut with another tool

 

[joshmodelskidoo]

Got to give it to hf on the breaker bar. Its a gem for sure. I have seen other cheaper brands break.

 

[Rinspeed]

I've destroyed a lot of 1/2" breaker bars, enough to find amusement with the name "Breaker bar".
The current HF 24ish long one is flexy, and splits the fork. Sometimes the pin breaks.
The APEX breakers tend to twist the square drives off.
Old Craftsman bars bent
So far the Tractor Supply 3/4 drive hasn't broken with a 6' cheater.
Oh, i also have a 1/4" Craftsman breaker. Bought it for laughs when sears was closing. Dumbest tool I've ever seen.

First time I changed the rear brakes on my F-150 I couldn't get the lugs to budge with my IR impact. I had to use a 5' cheater and I was quite impressed my SK 24" breaker didn't come apart, was rather impressed the HF impact socket didn't come apart either.